What to check when your Dryer will not heat 

I actually just fixed mine by using vice grips to clamp down on one of the connections. It worked!

Working as a stuporintendant for a large property management company- I too- had the dial/switch fail on a dryer. (Because the tenant had beat on it with a hammer !?!) Now- I check anything that the tenants can get their hands on. (Really appreciate this video!)

I checked all of the usual suspects, everything checked out OK. I always used the timed dry, checked using the auto moisture setting and I had heat again. Thanks for this video for pointing me in the right direction!

Thanks. Thermal fuse was the problem on my Whirlpool. I disconnected the 2 wires, tested, touched the wires together, and heat worked. $2 part online.

You are the man!! Thank you so much.. been working on this thing for weeks. All new stuff for nothing when it was the dial he whole time!!

Man thanks to you I saved 55 bucks for a new heating element

This video cracked me up. Thanks.

Thank you you saved me time by saying it was a timer I checked it and it was a timer

Thanks Dwight from the office.

First thing to always check is the circuit breaker or fuse. Takes both to be working to provide heat ( unless a 120 v unit). Event if breaker looks “on” turn off then back on. Fuse check for soft or hard blow. Second is check venting. Too many technicians love to open their tool box and impress customers by using them all.

Haha, big boy power and magic pixies. Dang pixies. Thanks for the vid.

This is the best tutorial I’ve found online by far! Thank you for taking the time to explain in detail

Turns out that all my switches and thermostats were good. It was the knob that was bad and wouldn't work on Timed Drying. Thank you so much for saying that at the end. I went through so many videos and everything tested out fine. I was so frustrated! Great job! My daughter says I should do my own RU-vid videos for the things I fix.

I knew I recognized your voice, great video. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for your great video. After watching it, for my Whirlpool stack dryer/washer unit, i replaced the $10 thermofuse, part # 3399849, and it's back in working condition again !

Howdy, thanks for this video. I was one of the lucky ones who had the same problem :)

Thank you so much 💝

Agreed - you connect accurately test continuity unless you disconnect the component that you are checking.

Disconnect one side of any component you're testing for continuity so you don't get a false (beepedy beep?) reading from the opposite end 👍

Thanks a lot!

I had the same problem it is the timer switches cleaned the contacts if it comes apart and your good to go👍👍

Sounds like its in the timer.always check the obvious first .. Do you have 250 coming in? If one side is out the 125 will run your motor but no heat

My old one was 19 years old, just got a new one, works great!

Im pretty sure I have this same dryer. It hasn’t been drying in a reasonable amount of time. I found a bunch of sticky lint on the vents which I just removed, but seems the heating element turns on and off. Is that normal for it to turn on and off while it’s drying? The airflow and spinning never stop, just the heating.

I changed my Maytag Dryers heating element, thermal fuse, and thermostat... I had a professional check my vents on the inside of the home and also clean the vent from the vent on the roof. There was really not much to clean. The dryer heated for maybe one day and has stopped heating again... Does this mean its time for a new dryer?

I had this no heat problem, but the fix wasn't covered here. Checking continuity alone isn't enough. All mine checked out, but the problem was simply that one of the connections was loose from the heat sensor. I think it vibrated loose over time and moved the pin enough to release the connection but not enough that you could see it. So, even though continuity was okay with the heat sensor and all the connections looked good, they weren't. None of the connectors were checked in this video, but when I checked all mine, the heat came back on. Had I not just wiggled them a little, which is easy to do while the back is off, I would have had to call a repair person. The video is very informative, but lacks that one important step before resorting to other remedies. If your car wouldn't start, the fist thing you check is the battery connections, not the battery itself, which is the second step. Continuity testing tells you if your unit (sensor breaker in my case) is good, but doesn't tell you if your wires are properly connected to it.

Nothing out of my Maytag dryer. Gas full to the valve. No glow plug lighting though intact. Push the main control - seems soft no clicking. No action. I tore it all down. Does my Maytag have a thermal fuse? The back doesn't come off like the one in the vid.

Good stuff.

What about the silver box in the middle is that supposed to Oma out correctly also And did your dryer still heat up on the other settings

@3:22 How does it function in the mix Nelson? It's your timer that went bad & not Pixies!

Check outlet for full 220 current first before replacing anything on dryer. Could be a bad breaker in breaker panel. only getting 110 to outlet. Needs 220 volts for your dryer to heat. Always check that first. If it's only getting 110 it runs,spins, buzzers will work but it will not heat without full 220. This is exactly what happened with mine . Get someone with a volt meter to check it out. Hope this info helps

My heating element on my Kenmore 600 Series dryer doesn't look like that. It seems to be totally enclosed in a sealed oval shape. No screws holding it in place, just a piece of metal from the top of the dryer into a slot that holds it in place.... Any thoughts?

I don't think I can fix my dryer after watching this but it sure was fun to watch

This happened to me just the other day, but since i was at a laundromat it really didn't affect me. GB

Man does Hollywood know what a stellar movie director you are? ha ha

Nanny State safety switches

always check your timer switch the have plenty of points in them mine were burnt which wasn't sending power to the heating element alway s check that also if all these other test are okay!

Nanny state safety switches? Would you rather they sell you the dryer without thermal protection? Heating element + lint = fire. It's just basic protection, the whole world isn't out to get you.

Mine was the dryer timer assembly. Melted contacts inside

Great video, thank you! I have discovered that my high limit thermostat is blown so will fix that. On testing also found that my heating element is black from heat but still conducts when tested. Is there any benefit to me installing a new heating element if old one is not blown?

The nard dog giving out drying repair solutions!!!! 😂😂😂....god you sound just like Ed helms the guy who plays Andy in the office!!!

This is my exact same setup on my dryer, I was watching mine run with the back cover off and my elements comes and goes. But everything is checking out with the continuety test

I have a broken wire on my element but I can't find any parts for it anywhere (8576779). I find ones like it that are 5400W 240V not 5000W 240V. Could I use that instead? Is there any way to repair the wire? I dont think a solder would hold up

It’s always best to remove one of the terminals going to the components to check for continuity. Another problem within the timer can be play in the post of the timer. All components checked out but the element wouldn’t come on unless I put up or down pressure on the timer post which the knob slides over. Remove pressure and element goes out, apply pressure and element comes on. I’m not talking lots of pressure either. The cams on the cog inside the timer get worn and move out of the way removing pressure to keep the contacts together thus disengaging heating contacts. New timer time.

yup I find that most of the time it's one of the thermal or safety switches if not the element....but i have found most of the time it's cheaper to buy a used dryer than to replace the setting control knob on some of them....but when I do repair one I will usually just replace the element and the belt while I've got the dryer open....after fixing it's original issue...because it's usually pretty cheap to do so....think the last one I did cost about 25 bucks total....and when it's open its the perfect time to clean out all the lint good fire insurance policy lol

also last thing to see is the wire from breaker box to outlet ? mine was 27 years old volt meter reads fine so i replace the wire and problem went away 2005 dryer runs like new maytag

I have a Crosley dryer that heat shuts off after 10 minutes and I just cleaned all vents

Just bought the whole replacement package on my roper dryer and replacement every sensor and element and still doesn't heat up. Like you said om thinking its the timer. Thanks, nice video.

I think I have the same problem as you. I haven't tested the switches yet but, it didn't work on the time dry but did work on the other cycle choices. Now its not heating at all. Have you fixed yours on the knob? I rarely hear the ticking sound for the timer and it was stopping short of the off portion of the cycle when it was working.

The wire on the bottom of the heating element keeps burning off and timer doesn't move but stays running but no heat until clean wire and but back on but keeps happening any suggestions,please

What about those 2 purple wires should there be continuity between those

Mine only heats on timed dry or Low heat auto-dry. It will NOT heat on Auto-High heat. What to check next? Timer????

I have a whirlpool dryer. I notice that is was overheating and would turn off. i order the fuse and the one underneath the fuse with the 4 prongs also the Thermal Cut off thermostat timer and the one above as well. I check continuity and omhs on all 4 everyone was meter well. But that didn't fix my problem no sir, the heating element stop heating, I order one replaced my old one. Bam! still no heat! moved up to my setting and checked the dial housing and cleaned it up a little since it tested well. it clicks it moves. all I have is air. Help please!

I'm having the same problem. I checked all of the cutoffs and they are okay. I'm thinking it might be the timer itself. They are pricey new so I might get a used one from ebay.

Glad Buster got to go play

I’m having the same issue you are: elements and fuse are good, but won’t dry on timed dry; only auto dry. Ever figure out the remedy?

Have the same thing wrong what do I need to check regarding the knob(timed dry)

What multimeter are you using?

Hi, i replaced all my element exact as the model and starts but no heat at all.

The bottom right element I'm assuming. At first you checked the 2 reds on it and got the beep. Then you checked the red with the orange and got the beeps. Mine only has 2 wires. Both red and no beep when checking them both.

You should disconect them first and than test not with wires plugged in lol

What are the parts called?

he said amazonened

What model dryer is this? I’m trying to get the part numbers for the thermal fuses and for some reason can’t find the model number.

don't piss off the pixies!

What if it's heating off and on? I have an Estate by Whirlpool.

I replaced the heating element and thermal fuse in my dryer. It still doesn’t heat. Don’t have a multi meter is there any other way to check.

Whats the orange wire attach to. Mine is gone.

How about the fabric temp switch? Could it be keeping it from getting heat?

My dryer low , medium heat working only high heat not working what happened need advise, thanks.

Is there an integrated circuit control board in that thing? Seems like every appliance has 'em now, and they can go zombie for no reason at all. Also, when you have weird problems like this, Google check with model and symptoms: most of the time, somebody else has had the same problem to deal with and has already done the heavy sweating.

I have intermittent heat problems. Changed the element and thermal fuse but still having problems. Any ideas?

I'm a newbie with electricity it's ok to be plugged in and check wont shock you?

take apart timer and sand connections.... fixed !!!

yep i just had this problem. dryer wouldnt turn on at all, turns out it was the white thermal cutoff on the left

The technical service guy told me he had to replace the collateral multifunction hydraulic actuator switch and spent four hours on the job.When I got home he just finished up and the wife was sitting in the basement smoking a cigarette and looked exhausted as if she blew a fuse too.Go figure.

Why don't the multimeter just beeps?

How' much does heating lemet cost

Matthew McConaughey does dryer fix videos now?

Mine is doing the same thing. It heats only when in fluff setting. Are you saying I need to change out the timer or the one of the thermostats, or both?

Did you ever figure out the problem? I have the exact same symptom as you...swapped every part in there and they are all OK, but still blowing cool air on timed dry. :|

the 220v - 110v is the heat, 110v is the timer. As long as you don't "cross" the streams - you won't get 220v :)

How much does a heating lemet

CHECK YOUR BREAKER!! A non tripped breaker doesnt mean it's working properly I replaced everything on the back of mine. No luck. Bought a new dryer, still wouldn't heat! Come to find out, the dryer will still spin if half of the breaker is still working.

Nob lol timer .and when you check for the fuses take one Wire off . that's how you check . you do know how

help, ive checked all of the lower fuses, and replaced heating element. cleaned it out. what do o chech next

Please sir do you know the name of those switches to be replaced. My son checked all those cards and injections as he's an electrician apprentice. Our dryers 14 or more years old but if those switches are cheap I'll give them a try. I'm an impractical kinda guy mostly into art and music but perhaps I'll get some points with the wife if I change those. So could you help me learn how to identify them for buying on amazon. 😊 I'll happily PayPal you se coffee money.

Is it safe to bypass any of the heating switches

I watched the whole video and then realized my washer is busted and not the dryer..so, if my washer is busted I don’t need a dryer and by the time I get the washer fixed the clothes will be dry anyway...I will figure it out, after all, the 12 years in spent in grade school will get me thru this

I have tested my dryer down.... got continuity and voltage to the element thru all the nanny T 'stats. The element shows continuity and appears unbroken. It IS defying physics. HELP!

You sound a bit like Gary Sinise

Just another tip -- The parts are so cheap - you're taking it apart (20 minutes) - order the cutoffs, order the heating element - just replace - as long as the fan is working. they can be a few bucks. But you're going in, just replace them, new dryer for cheap, good for another 10 years, you know what I mean? You're there anyways.

Cool thanks....Now I know I need "THAT" part!

This didn't help one bit.How about the temperature switch?

keep choochin`

could not see what part of fuse you were testing.

My problem was a tripped circuit breaker

I replaced all sensors, element, the fuse, and now it wont turn on

I don't see where you are putting the testing leads to check

"A bad knob"?