What you need to know before building a Predator 224 

He said NEVER grind on the Billet Rod. 🤷‍♂

Thank you. I just don’t have time to build my own stuff! There is a lot of satisfaction in building your own engine. What a great feeling when you do the first start!

@@TheGrayGoatGarage so true!

DynoCams did not offer clearanced cams when that video was made. We do have cams now that are clearanced and have a thinner decompression spring www.ombwarehouse.com/performance-parts/predator-performance-parts/predator-224-max-performance/cams/ Most engines with 58mm cranks can use these cams with zero clearance issues

Plss that would bee good

@@denhamdaves not sure if your still needing it but it’s called a crankshaft tool and they have them at OMB warehouse for like $20

@@JVScustomsthank you 🙏🏽

i am doing the carb and how did you get the vacume line on the carburetor like where it usually goes on the plastic box from stock? mine isnt getting fuel

The Predator 224 non-Hemi (not the new Hemi version) always had the reinforced block

China

Hi Chuck, Thanks for the feedback. This was done just to check the clearance inside the block. The rings do not matter! If you can make a video and link it here that may be helpful for others. Please share the link to your video. Thank you

The plastic piece is acrylic and brittle. It is a great tool for doing a few engines but is not designed to last forever. Anyone building a lot of engines and wanting repeatable results would want something more substantial

@@TheGrayGoatGarage Oh, I see. Thanks, Bud.

What RPM do you want it balanced. Piston engines will never be balanced, never ever. You can only balance it for a certain engine speed range.

The stock rod is not designed for higher than governed rpm use. They typically starve for oil at 5000-5500 rpms. That is when it tries to weld itself to the crank and break. A VM22 carb is a performance carb that wants to be on a performance engine. You should consider a billet rod and a bigger cam. The nylon gear on the stock cam does not like high rpm’s or heavy spring pressure.

@@TheGrayGoatGarage thanks for the info. I appreciate the work you're doing for the small engine community. Any suggestions on a mild cam and rod that dosent need too much clearencing?

I want to be Jody when I grow up!

The biggest jet does not matter. You have to get the correct jet for your engine! Bigger jets do not make more power, that would just create a rich condition that would lose power!

Just trying to find the right combination of parts before ordering so I don’t end up with parts I can’t use or won’t work properly.

I am using the stock length 3.303” clone rod but have the taller .570”pin height piston to get to near zero deck. I did not even measure how far in the hole as it is so close to zero deck I am also going to try the +.020” rod and the .550” piston. The results should be the same though There is nothing consistent with any Chinese engine and every engine will need to get built differently. I am wanting to use parts that do not require machine work to get installed. I don’t have the equipment to mill a piston top…like most people!

@@TheGrayGoatGarage did you ever get to see how far in the hole the +.020 rod put you? Mine looks pretty close to zero deck but it’s my first time building any engine so I want to be sure

I like to keep the top ring between .008” and .010” The second ring at .010” to .018” The oil control at .010” to .030”

@@TheGrayGoatGarage thank you

@@TheGrayGoatGarage I want to make sure it's correct before I put my engine back together

www.ombwarehouse.com/camshaft-installation-tool.html

www.ombwarehouse.com/camshaft-installation-tool.html

@@TheGrayGoatGarage thank you sir

You must check EVERYTHING! Is the rod hitting the inside of the case or the cam? Is the piston hitting the crank? It is is every rotation it is not the valves. Now it the time to check it!

@@TheGrayGoatGarage no see that’s the thing, everything clears fine, it’s just a very slight tapping sound. It doesn’t do it with just the rod, piston, crank and cam in. Only does it with the head. Which confuses me because all of the RU-vid videos I’ve watched on clearancing have all been done with the head off, they never checked with the head on or at least didn’t mention/ show it in the video

@@TheGrayGoatGarage I think I’m just gonna scrap it and pick up another and keep it stock I’ve been messing with this block for just about 2 weeks now. At least 5 hours a day, I even worked on it for 10 hours straight one day, still can’t figure it out. There is nothing making any contact with anything my cam center is less than a quarter inch thick now, my lobes are ground near in half, I’ve grinded out damn near an 1/8th inch of the top and bottom of the bore, my crank ears are ground rounded almost to the journal, the counterweights are definitely completely off balance and the sound is still happening. I give up, I could’ve saved over a grand if I just trusted my gut from the get go lmao

@@DatHondaBoi223 timing wrong? it could be hitting the valves

@@Shaun-hp2yz I never figured it out but I’ve been running it for 2 months now seems to do great haha, idk what I was hearing but something was definitely tapping, maybe it was just the sound of the valves opening and closing?

We now have cams that are pre-clearanced www.ombwarehouse.com/performance-parts/predator-performance-parts/predator-224-max-performance/cams/

The stock rod will clear most GX200/clone cams, but stock rods do not like the additional rpms from aftermarket cams. If you are removing the governor please consider a billet rod and flywheel!

Only pre-clearanced cams are available

@@TheGrayGoatGarage Other question I have is, with orders over 200 you are eligable for free shipping. By chance do you know how fast the free shipping is relative to other paid options?

@@prestigemaster6610 free shipping is ground shipping. You would need to pay for quicker shipping

I try not to work 24/7 anymore and emailing the warehouse is the best way. That why I can spend time with family and work on my own stuff! As long as you don’t go too deep and try to get .030” clearance you will be fine. Go slow, measure a few times. Don’t try to be “one and done”! I may install a rod and piston several times before I am satisfied. Be patient and do the work!

Yes. All stock blocks use 2 dowel pins

Predator is just a name and not a manufacturer. Ducat makes these engines and they also make Tillotson engines

It separates the men from the boys!

You just need ingenuity and patience, some people just need extra help especially if they are timid taking a grinder to things.

That is a hrsSt idea, just not practical. We want to leave as much material as possible on the cam for strength. Keep in mind the cam is cast iron If that was a billet cam there would be no issues, but billet cams do not have compression releases and I am not strong enough to pull the engine over without that! We also are not concerned with cam balance as it moves at half the rpm as the crank and it would have zero effect on the balance of the engine. That is all related to the crank, rod, and piston

I am holding on! LOL The clearancing is required when building a performance engine. Even engines without the 58mm crank can require some clearancing. I used an aftermarket cam and connecting rod but used the stock crank. The ARC connecting rods will keep the engine from destroying itself at higher than governed rpms. The ARC rod is physically larger and that is why the block needs to be clearanced. Every DynoCams cam comes with a card that tells you to check the clearance between the lobes regardless if the engine has a 54, 55, or 58mm crank. The Chinese tolerances on these engines are all over the place and all clearances must be checked when building any engine. It does not matter if the engine is a 196, 208, 212, 223, 224, or 236cc engine. It still must be checked! Because of the varying tolerances in these engines, the aftermarket cannot make one part that fits every engine. As an engine builder, you must check EVERYTHING that is put into any engine. If you are taking apart a 224 and putting it back together with all of the stock parts, there are no issues. Everything will fit. If you are wanting to build a performance engine you have to do some work!

@@TheGrayGoatGarage Roger Roger. I didn't know the extent of the mods you were doing or if the market had answered the call and come up with a "level kit" that was a straight replacement with little to no fitment needed. Because IF a company had done that....well...they would be millionaires overnight. ::: hint hint :::

This? www.ombwarehouse.com/camshaft-installation-tool.html

If I am close to zero deck like I am showing here, I will use a .027” steel shim gasket to get the required .030” piston the head clearance www.ombwarehouse.com/dj-1310p-27-predator-head-gasket-027-70mm/

@@TheGrayGoatGarage I will probably use the same. Thanks!

Hey man do you have the link for the plastic side cover?

@@kooznye I just looked it up on omb wearhouse and found it there

Nope. The cam is not a balanced part of the rotating assembly. Have nothing to do with engine balance

@@TheGrayGoatGarage ok I didn't know, but questioned it. Thanks

Paul's Karts does but it's like $500 minimum if he even touches it 😅Just buy a Dremel and go @ it . These heads are still cheap and available and there are plenty of head porting videos sharing knowledge.

I believe DynoCams can port your head. You can do it at home if you have Dremel. That is what I use

Here is the rod www.ombwarehouse.com/billet-rod-3_303-billet-rod.html and use this piston www.ombwarehouse.com/predator-212-70mm-flat-top-piston-with-rings-stock-pin-height-570.html Please note that this rod will not work with the stock piston

7/16 I believe

All of the threads on this crank are right-hand threads. There are no left-hand threads anywhere on these engines

@@TheGrayGoatGarage thanks

If using the stock piston, use this rod www.ombwarehouse.com/6773-ducar-212cc-3-303-billet-rod/ If you want to bump the compression with a flat top piston, we have this combo www.ombwarehouse.com/predator-224-flat-top-piston-and-billet-rod.html

@@TheGrayGoatGarage thanks

That is how it gets done! Good job!

i am doing the carb and how did you get the vacume line on the carburetor like where it usually goes on the plastic box from stock? mine isnt getting fuel

Mine runs great!

Mine ain’t never had issues

Mine hits 70mph on 12-44t 26 springs carb flywheel . Had it since march of this year. Sounds like you mightve been rushing something

​@@s13__anthony76 i am doing the carb and how did you get the vacume line on the carburetor like where it usually goes on the plastic box from stock? mine isnt getting fuel

​@@s13__anthony76bro.. show me the way!! I'm tryna get mine like that was well. I just bought the engine yesterday, and I want that kind of speed from mine as well

The Non-Hemi Pred 212 typically does mot have any clearance issues. The cranks have less material on the top of the crank throw. We should always check, but chances are you will be fine!

@@TheGrayGoatGarage Thank you alot!

Thank you for your comment. Can you explain further why you think this? As a keyboard warrior I am sure it is easy for you to bash a company hiding behind a fake screen name. What is your name? What company do you own? Do you have a RU-vid channel? We are always willing to learn from professionals how things should be handled! Do you do consulting work too?

OMB is my go to.