You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Thank you for the very clear, step-by-step instructions. My dishwasher was filling with water at the beginning, but then the motor never kicked in. I followed all the directions here, plus some tips I saw on another video. It was easier for me to work on things by pulling the dishwasher out from under the counter and laying it on its back. When I had everything disconnected and had to take out the whole assembly, it wouldn't budge. By laying the dishwasher on its back I was able to give the assembly a firm thump from underneath to break the seal. I took the motor apart and cleaned the gunk out of it. Then put everything back together. When it was time to reinstall the assembly, I followed the directions of another commentor on another video and set the dishwasher up on two chairs so I could push firmly on the assembly from inside the dishwasher and it wouldn't hit a hose or something else against the floor and not go in all the way. I pressed firmly at different points on the "clock", like 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock, and 6 o'clock. That helped me get it firmly in. My daughter had to hold the dishwasher while I was doing this to keep it from falling forward. When I put it back together and slid it back under the counter, everything worked!
Sandra my problem is with draining fully also and I also can't seem to get the assembly out. I'll take your advice and kick it out when it's on its side
Followed this well made video and removed the impeller from the assembly. After not seeing anything I was about to assume it was a faulty motor, but I decided to run water through all the ducting and low and behold, a large chunk of lettuce got blown out that I couldn't see or feel! Reassembled and now I have a working dishwasher again!
I replaced a pump and motor yesterday on my Kitchenaid dishwasher. Went pretty smoothly. These directions were very helpful. To get the assembly to seat properly I sat a 25lb dumbell on it, that helped me lock the assembly in place. My dishwasher is only a couple years old, you would think the motor would last longer than that. Oh well, $140 for the part is much less that $500 to $800 for a brand new one.
I'm in the same boat - 2 year old Whirlpool cost $650 but a repair could be $400 with parts and labour. The pump-motor assembly is $250 Canadian if I do it myself. The problem is I don't know what is causing the problem at this point - just that the spray arms won't spin.
Great video, super helpful. The only thing I would add is that the turbidity sensor is very difficult to get secured correctly after the sump has been replaced since it's in the back and mostly blind; I found it much easier to replace the sensor before reseating the sump assembly.
Thanks to this video, I took apart the circulation motor and un-clogged it. Thank you. I had no idea that you could remove the bottom assembly without rolling the washer out from under the counter. Saved me a lot of time and hassle. Thanks
This was the perfect video for me to make this repair. Out of the blue the dishwasher just stopped spraying water. It would fill and drain but wouldn't do anything else. I just bit the bullet and tore it apart using this video and everything came apart exactly as shown. Now - it did take a bit more pressure to get the assembly to actually pop out (water tight seals are water tight for a reason). But with some consistent, increasing pressure around one of the clip areas, it finally popped up. Ordered the part directly from you guys Friday night and it was here on Saturday morning (my wife was willing to pay the extra shipping because Christmas cooking was on the near horizon). I still couldn't believe it was on my doorstep before noon on Saturday. The only tricky part of the install was again, getting it tight enough to the bottom to ensure a water tight seal. Took a LOT of my weight on it over each clip to get it to settle in. I made all the connections, ran a quick wash cycle and everything worked perfectly. Saved me a ton of money as well as waiting around for a repairman. We did it on our schedule. Thanks guys!
Thank you for posting this video! I completed the replacement as instructed and my dishwasher works again. These instructions saved me hundreds of dollars from what a repairman quoted me.
Excellent! We are happy to hear that you were able to save money. We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Thank you for the detailed step-by-step video. Our dishwasher was not spraying the water from the arms. Repair person quoted $500 to replace the Pump and Motor assembly. I bought the OEM part for $200 and replaced it ourselves. Followed the instructions and we were able to replace it without pulling the dishwasher out of the cabinet.
Perfect to the point video. I had a bad circulation pump and replaced the whole sump assembly because I found a new one on EBay for under a hundred. This video was awesome in helping me.
Thank you for this video. All of a sudden the motor stopped working and water was not entering the spinners. Followed these instructions and read the comments below and that helped a lot. So thank you very much for the clear instructions.
First off... yess not really as easy as it looks. BUT it helped out tremendously! instead of buying a whole new dishwasher. I was able to find a used motor for $17 on ebay shipped... replaced it using the simple help from this video and now my dishwasher is now back up and running well! THANKS so much for this video!
I could not have repaired my dishwasher in the cabinet without this video. Its not perfect, there are some minor differences but its certainly doable. First thing I advise is look at the new part closely to see how and where the hard to reach parts will be attached. This especially means wiring connections and release tabs. It will help you figure how to take it apart and put it back together again. The best part of the video is sequencing. Success is all about knowing what to do first so everything comes apart easily and goes back together correctly. My model had extra wires. There were three cables connectedto the pump after lifting it out of the interior. Each had differentcolor and size plugs. That threw me for a loop on the installation as I didn't study all the wires as closely as I should but it wasn't a big problem. I just had to back up when I realized that I only attached 2 of the 3 cables. Any way, it took 1hr 20 minutes to do the job with a few mistakes and no prior experience.
Thank you so much for this video. My dishwasher broke last week, and with the help of this video, I was able to purchase the replacement part and get everything changed out without too much trouble. And now, I once again have a working dishwasher for a fraction of the cost I would have had to pay to have someone else come out to do it.
I had a recirc pump fail on my Whirlpool dishwasher and found a replacement one for $70. I started off following this video but was having some difficulty getting my hands under the dishwasher. I was able to remove the drain pump and disconnect the line. I checked another video and they had disconnected the water and power supplies then removed it from the cubby allowing them to tip it over and get easier access to the bottom. I was able to replace the recirc pump with minimal difficulty and reinstalled the drain pump while I had easy access. Hooked everything back up and the drain pump was leaking a lot. One of the retaining tabs broke off when I initially removed it and its too badly damaged to be glued back on. So now I need either the whole sump or a new dishwasher now. Don't get me wrong, I'm not blaming the video maker for what happened. There was an easier way to have this repair done.
Video was a huge help. I bought just the pump assembly (no basin) but ended up just decoupling the pump motor/impeller from the pump housing. Not the basin, the pump itself is twist locked together. It saves needing to replace the rubber hoses or hose clamps.
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Thanks for the excellent video. Here are two tips related to other comments on removing/seating the new assembly. I did this replacement on model WDF520PADW7. (1) To remove the old assembly from the base, it was helpful to use a pry bar (tip on floor behind sump) to un-stick the old assembly from the base. (2) When installing the new assembly: The lubricated gasket causes the new assembly to simply pop back up after being pushed into place. (The video suggests that it snaps into place, but this is not the case.) I too found it impossible to pull the assembly down from below hard enough to seat all three hold-down tabs. My work-around: After positioning the assembly and locking two of the hold-down tabs (the ones nearest the sump), I stacked barbell weight plates inside on top of a block of wood (to clear the heating element) to provide enough downward force to allow moving the third tab into place. I had to use 60 lbs total.
Thank you for the REAL WORLD tasks needed to complete this installation. The video is good but it is clearly a brand new machine and our actual experiences will be ... different and likely more difficult. I will keep these tips in mind when repairing my daughter's washer.
THANK YOU! I tried pushing from every direction, even tapping around the edges of the assembly with a hammer, and it wouldn't move. The plastic "washtub" that lines the inside of the dishwasher was flexing, and I was afraid it would crack. After reading your tips, I pried around the edge with a screwdriver, and it popped right out!
It was not as easy as he made it look. I ended up having to pull the dishwasher out. I didn't have enough finger strength to detach some of the parts from underneath. The video explained things very well however, and and my dishwasher is working great. The best part is it didn't cost the $500 the repair place wanted to fix it. Good job and thanks.
I tackled this five days ago. The previous day I immersed myself in these repair videos until I believed I had an idea of what to expect. I removed the _entire_ center section, placing it on a tray where I'd laid down a towel. The _only_ tool I needed was a nut driver to remove the irregularly-shaped sump damper. Thank goodness the problem was easily identifiable. Plastic bits, strips of plastic had infiltrated the circulation pump over 34 months, somehow getting past the coarse and fine filters. Once I cleaned the pump aperture and inspected the drain pump, hoses and fittings I put everything back together. Our dishwasher isn't that old so after the thorough cleaning I certified it as being nearly as good as new. From start to finish I spent less than 90 minutes on the project. I was very grateful that it wasn't a pump failing prematurely. The test run of dirty dishes, poor cleaning had been the symptom that something was wrong, went as I had hoped.
I also struggled to push the pump out. I just kept trying and it eventually did budge without me having to pull the dishwasher out, I think pushing up at an angle on it helps break the seal.
The video was a big help. I could not remove the electrical connectors or the waste pump by reaching under the washer. I was able to flip the three latches and "carefully" remove the entire assembly from the tub but be very careful of the wires and re-route them to allow assembly removal. Then I could easily use two hands to remove the electrical connectors and twist off the waste pump. I then added the pump to the new assembly (circulator pump, diverter etc.). I had trouble seating the assembly back into the washer but eventually used a clamp (reversed to push instead of squeeze) with an extension of a 2x3. With that I could press the assembly down into the recess and easily secure the three latches. Job done without moving the washer at all! Thank you.
Did this today on my Whirlpool dishwasher and it worked. I did not have to pull the dishwasher out to do it. A couple of tips. The part at 2:37 where he pushed up to release it from the base of the dishwasher... perhaps I am just not very strong, but it will NOT be as simple as it looks here. You’ll need to use all of force you’ve got from a terrible angle to get this up. Just keep trying, you WILL end up breaking the seal eventually. The pump/motor assembly is broken anyway so don’t worry about pushing it or twisting it to get that seal to be broken in any way you can. Second tip: connect all of the wires to the new assembly except the drain pump before attempting to seat it. It’s a lot easier to connect all the wires first before seating it than figuring it out later. Lastly, in order to get the new pump to sit in the base, it was again NOT as easy as he made it look at 3:23. I needed a second set of hands to hold down each of the 3 areas of the pump from the top so that I could lock the 3 sump retainers in place, but without the help to put weight down from the top - I don’t think I could have done it. I would recommend not doing that last past alone. Everything else can be done by yourself.
Great video, thank you. For those with newer models, here are a few notes from my repair. 1) It is easier to remove the dishwasher from under the counter. 2) My model dishwasher did not have to remove the door because it is in 1 piece and not 2 pieces like in the video.
Thank you for this video! My dishwasher motor was not "kicking on" so I used your video as a guide to disassembling and inspecting the washer motor. When I did, I found a huge clump of "stuff" that was apparently preventing the washer motor from engaging/turning. Once re-assembled (and thoroughly cleaned everything), the washer came back to life. Two thumbs up on the quality and detail you gave. (Note: i did not remove the front panel of the dishwasher as I did not see this as necessary.)
Great quality video. Every step outlined perfectly clear. I had a very similar Whirlpool model, about 5 years old. My dishwasher would basically just stop after a few minutes. It seemed to fill, and drained just fine, but stopped making noise after a few minutes and left the detergent in the bottom after draining. I ran the dishwasher diagnostic per the technician guide in the floor panel cover and it gave me error code 4-3 which meant the recirculating pump or it's wiring was bad. I figured the wiring was most likely ok, I pulled the pump out of the bottom (it twists out like the drain pump), and tried to see if the motor was jammed. There was a little gunk but it seemed to spin ok. I cleaned it out and reassembled, but pump was still bad. Ordered a new assembly, reinstalled everything and problem solved. Thanks!
My daughter's 6 year old machine has the exact same symptoms and diagnostics results code. I will order her a new circulating pump. Thank you for posting your experience.
Awesome video, thanks so much. This made it easy for me to take apart. I found that there was fuzz and gunk in the impeller of the pump which was causing the pump motor to not turn on. After cleaning and reassembling, it works great again!
This video is a great help. I used it to replace the pump assembly this morning on my 8 year old Kenmore Elite dishwasher. Some of the fasteners etc. were a little different but easy to figure out (e.g. the upper spray arm wasn't held on by screws on mine, it just clicked into place). This took about 45 minutes for me and my wife to do. Some things I learned that may help others: --Working on this from underneath is darned near impossible, especially if you have hardwood floors that are higher up than the dishwasher. We took it out, and laid in on it's side on pieces of cardboard to protect the floor. Towels at the ready to catch the water. -Beware sharp edges. I got several minor cuts to my fingers working with this, mostly from the metal lip of the opening that the pump assembly goes in to. -I don't see any clear reason to take the front panel off of the door. Unless you are removing the entire door, it is still in your way, and the door doesn't have anything to do with this repair. We skipped that part. --The new pump assembly was challenging to get into place; I guess because the seals were new, they were a little bigger. If the washer was standing upright, I could get it seated by pushing down firmly (very firmly) on top, but then I couldn't reach under to twist the retaining toggles. If it was on it's side, I could reach the toggles, but couldn't get the pump gasket to seat firmly and evenly. It also doesn't tell you but there is a plastic pin on the pump housing that matches up with a slot in the front of the opening in the bottom of the washer, to make sure the pump assembly is aligned in the opening correctly. We succeeded by sitting the washer upright with the wheels/front legs on some boards to raise it up; , then having my wife apply firm, even pressure to the center of the pump assembly from the inside while I engaged the toggles from the underside. She did have to apply a bit of "body English" to the specific areas I was toggling to get it to work--i.e. push down a little more at 11:00 position, then 4:00 position, then 7:00 position etc. -Lastly, the pump assembly part as shipped from Repair clinic is billed as "complete"--but you do not get a new drain pump with it. You get the main pump, and the diverter motor, and the housing it all goes in (including the screen and basket filters) , but you have to reuse your old drain pump (and also your existing turbidity sensor). Thankfully those were not my problem. My dishwasher would start for a minute, then stop and repeatedly make a low grinding type noise. This part fixed that and it is working great now, and I am ecstatic because I saved $300 on what it would have cost to have a repairman come out, and a new washer of similar quality would have been over $700.00! -One more thing-we wiped out some accumulated crud form the inside of the door seal at the bottom of the door; old food, old soap residue, and black stuff that looked like mold. Wiped it down, then sprayed it with diluted bleach. Now we are running a cycle with no dishes inside, just a cup of white vinegar sitting upright on the top rack as per the service manual instructions (I found the manual online elsewhere--not from Repair Clinic). Once again, RepairClinic.com has saved me a bunch of money--thank you!! So far we've fixed our clothes washer (twice), dryer (3 times), a microwave (twice), and now the dishwasher. Recycling at it's best!
Thanks a lot! We had a very strong burning plastic smell in the kitchen area and couldn't find the source. It finally went away after few hours. We later discovered standing water in the Whirlpool wdt720padw1 model dishwasher. Concluding the drain pump fried, I thought I'd have to remove the entire washer to replace drain pump. Then i found this video. WHEW! It was easy to get to drain pump and remove it. Found a piece of broken glass had stopped the impeller. Removed glass, reinstalled pump, and yay!! It works again and cost nothing. Thank you again for sharing your knowledge.
Excellent guide for most KitchenAid & whirlpool models Most of the time I spent on this repair came from finding all the hidden retention clips on my kitchen model.
Thank you, the video was very helpful, especially @1:35 the course filter, simple enough. Found a small piece of plastic causing the rattle. Easy and free, 5 minute fix! Best of all, no tools required.
This is really helpful. There are other instructional videos on replacing the circulation pump in Whirlpool machines but all the others I've seen include removing the dishwasher. This is so much easier. BTW, Whirlpool is the opposite of helpful. If you go through the user manual troubleshooting guide they end up telling you to call them. I was on the phone with them for 70 minutes only to find out they will not make their service manuals available. Such a**holes. And my machine failed in less than two years with very light use since I live alone and use very few dishes.
IF YOUR WASHER ISN'T DRAINING / HAS POOLED WATER AT END OF CYCLE. This video helped me repair our Whirlpool WDT750SAHZ0. After unplugging the machine, we suctioned out the drain hose (forcefully) from the disposal end with a shop vac. Be very careful mixing water and power!!! Then, followed the directions in this video for removing the drain pump (starts at about 1:45), and not going further. We discovered that our drain pump was very hot, and there is a bit of resistance when hand advancing the blades. However, it did seem to spin. We used an air compressor with rubber tipped cleaning nozzle to cool the electronics (transformer?). Looking at some of the replacements we found (not OEM) they state 5 min run / 40 min off, which seems to indicate a duty cycle on this device. So, if you have hose blockage (ostensibly you will clear that at the beginning of the process), it may be overheating / faulting out. So, still disconnected from the coupling, we plugged the two pin connector back in, plugged the machine in to its outlet (or restore your circuit breaker, if hard-wired), and left it upright on the floor, blades pointing to the side. Shut the washer door, and press the Cancel X button. If the motor spins, it is getting voltage. If not, you may have a bad motor, or issue at the control board. From that point, you would need to use a meter to safely ascertain if that small two-pin connector is getting 120V AC power. We reinstalled the drain pump motor and reassembled the machine. Working now, with OEM (Whirlpool) pumps going for about $73 and aftermarket on eBay for as little as $23, should the pump fail completely. Thank you to Repair Clinic, who have saved me many hundreds over the last few years with various diagnostic solutions and fixes. Love this channel!!!
Can’t thank you enough for the step by step guidance to help fix my dishwasher. Saved me a ton of money and time! Couldn’t find any clogs or jams but when I put it all back together, it started working like a charm!
I just did this operation on my dishwasher, and other than two more things that plugged in on mine, everything else was the same. If you can follow instructions, and don't mind laying on the floor to do a few things, it's really not difficult, and you can get this done in around an hour. To take out the old one, I ran a butter knife around the seam, then lifted straight up. The most difficult part was seating the new one. I had a second person push down fairly hard, while I was on the floor turning the locks. I may not have attempted this without your video though, so thanks so much! If you have a way to do a tip, please reply and let me know, as you must have saved me some decent service money.
Good video, good for Whirlpool for making access and removal easy, but shame on them that you have so much plastic waste, and especially that the motors are constructed so poorly. I just replaced the circulation motor (bad bearing) as it stopped spraying water in the wash cycle and the motor only lasted about 2 years on a brand new washer. It was fairly easy to replace but shame on Whirlpool that it lasted such a short time. Companies used to make products that will last, we purchased out dishwasher (model WDF760SAD82) as the racks felt more substantial than on other brands and that it was assembled in the US. There are other videos on youtube that show removal of just the motor, which can be done without disconnecting hoses. I pulled the DW and tipped it on, it's side. The motor carefully pulls free then twists off so replacement only took an hour or so. I guess I'll be doing this in another year or two. I will watch the video on how to replace the bearing and have this motor ready to swap out. Come on WP, start doing things the right way!
I would like to follow this up. After doing this repair a month ago, the dishwasher was working great. Now a month later, it is having the same problem again. Shame on you Whirlpool.
This is what I needed to fix my washer. Thank you so much. This step by step instructions was perfect. Highly recommend for anyone who needs to save money during the pandemic.
Yes. All I did was follow these steps to remove the pump. I then cleaned the sump pump and reinstalled. There was so much gunk that needed cleaned out. Once reinstalled, washer worked perfectly.
Thanks a bunch! Great video and just saved myself several hundred dollars. I agree with one of the other comments on here that I had the hardest time getting the new assembly to seat and to re engage the lock arms. It was a bit difficult and caused me to swear like a sailor. Getting the old part out also required a bit of force, more than I thought.
This video was super helpful! It might have taken a bit more than 6 minutes, though - and required a second set of hands. Reseating the assembly was a lot more difficult than I expected, as it wouldn’t stay seated. Maybe I used too much soap? Reconnecting the turbidity sense prior to seating the motor is suggested to anyone reading this. The replacement part was about $175 on Amazon. I’m planning on opening up my old motor to see what happened, but wasn’t about to do this process more than once. If it turns out to be a clog, I’ll clear it out and keep the original motor as a backup.
Great video, very helpful. Took me 4 hours troubleshooting, 30 minutes to disassemble and 30 minutes to reassemble the new pump and motor assembly. Machine running no leaks and THANK YOU.
This is exactly the video I have been looking for. Thank you very much for posting. I had shards of broken glass stuck in the impeller and now it works perfectly again.
This video was super helpful! I replaced the same part in my Whirlpool dishwasher (WDF750SAYW1), but it also has ceramic block (sump damper) attached under the sump which I had to remove before I could push the sump assembly through the hole. Other than that, it was relatively simple. Thank you!
Best video on this topic. I just fixed my Blanco dishwasher. There was a broken glass piece in the drain pump. Opening the base was a bit different, its all plastic. Had to remove click-locks. Many thanks.
Definitely use a knife to break the seal on the pump before you try to remove it from the bottom of the dishwasher. It makes a huge difference and makes that part really easy.
I pulled my dishwasher out from the space and laid it on its face. Then I used the heel of my hand and bumped the assembly pretty firmly. It will give way as the only thing holding it in place is a rubber gasket and built up crud from food, which might act like glue! If all 3 retaining clips are released, it will give way.
Perfect. Pulling the doorskin was so much easier than the alternative. I timed the repair-. 12 minutes open and shut. New pump on evilbay for $20 delivered.
Thanks so much for this video! I have an Amana branded dishwasher and it's almost exactly the same. The wire clips and a couple of other things were a bit different, but I was able to take out the assembly to get at and clean/unjam the circulating pump. Works great now! I now also have strong opinions about how my dishwasher was designed. Why would the inside of the door be an unreachable grease trap!?! I now have a new spot to clean more often.
Thanks for the video. I had a slightly different model, WDF750SAYM3 (aka WDF750SAYSS). It had a diverter motor unit, so make sure you order the right part for your machine.
I'm one of your subscribers, very clear instructions video. The problem of my dishwasher is not draining at th end cycle, i remove all the possible cause of clog, and clean even the drain hose but still not draining, what is the problem sir? Thank you very much
Thanks for this. Nice and clear. I didn't have to remove front of door for my Kitchenaid KUDE70FXPA1, but everything else was spot on. Too bad the pump isn't sold separately. All the other parts of the assembly were fine.
Turbidity sensor is easier removed when you pull the motor out. Also you will scratch your self. I did need another person to push the motor down while I twisted in the clamps. But this saved me $450 a repairman wanted. I found the motor for $150.
SOOOOO glad I saw this video. After taking it all apart, I found a wadded up piece of plastic stuck in the drain pump that was blocking the entire tube. I was also able to clean all the black muck out of EVERY piece. Running again.... We'll soon see if all is well.
Our dishwasher's problem was, suddenly, poor cleaning. Imagining the worst I started researching videos here on RU-vid and looking for a circulation pump motor. I went as far ordering a rebuild kit for our machine's circulation pump. Long story short, when I began the tear-down the dishwasher this morning to access the working guts of the thing my first great discovery was much like yours and I found many long pieces of plastic debris washed-up at the exit aperture of the circulation pump's impeller. I was thrilled when I cleaned-out the debris and checked the motor shaft for sloppiness and side-chuck. No problem found. I checked the drain motor and impeller and surprisingly didn't find any issues there. Before I reinstalled everything I made certain of all mounting surfaces and mating flanges being clean. I made a test run and it was so satisfying hearing the pumps working like new. I replaced the sound barrier/kick panel and waited for the cycle to finish. It is bordering on miraculous that this didn't degenerate into a week-long $300 problem. I also said a prayer thanking God for His enabling me to carryout the fix.
@@TralfazConstruction I know, right? Makes you feel a GREAT sense of accomplishment restoring it to like-new. This video made it clear enough to dig in and not be afraid of messing it up. Glad I saw this!!!
@@duanewright9356 So true. In a little while I'm going to wade-in and look at common problems encountered with the washer and dryer that we have here. Both will be six years old in May of 2020 so after troubleshooting the dishwasher's symptoms I think it's probably a good idea to get out ahead of any washer/dryer problems before those crop up. With the front loader style clothes washers it appears that seals, bearings and drive belts are the weakest links so that's where I intend to begin.
So, what were the symptoms that caused you to take it apart in the first place? With mine the spray arms don't move which means the dishes get half cleaned.
@@daveg6839 With our machine it was successive poor washes. The first time I thought I had blocked the lower arm with a large frying pan. Then it dawned on me that there was something else going on because I didn't hear the quiet and powerful 'whoosh' from the circulation pump.
I am not handy at all, but this video helped me replace the pump and motor assembly on my dishwasher. My model is a little bit different than the one shown in the video. I have model wdt720padm2. But overall, most of the video was relevant. I did have some places I got stuck--just in case it helps anyone else: 1. The tab you press to release and rotate the pump is near the top. I really had to fumble around to find it. The video makes it look really easy because it shows a direct view, but you likely won't be able to see it that easily if you don't pull out the dishwasher. 2. One of the fasteners keeping the sump assembly in place is near the back right. Again, if you don't pull out the dishwasher, you won't be able to see it. You just have to reach blindly to the back and feel around until you find it. 3. After I had everything disconnected underneath, I still could not get the assembly to pop out of place no matter how hard I pushed up. The video makes it looks really easy--like a nice little push up will do. What I had to do was open the dishwasher, and stick a butter knife between the seal of the assembly to break the seal a little bit, and then push the assembly up from underneath, and then I was able to get it out. 4. In my model, there are actually three different wires you have to disconnect and then reconnect on the new assembly. The assembly part number is WPW10671941. Overall, though, it's fairly simple to figure out how to disconnect the three different wires and then reconnect them. 5. I had a really hard time getting the assembly to push all the way down far enough to get the fasteners to lock into place. It took a few tries, and I actually had to use a knife again to wedge one of the fasteners down a bit to get it to slide over underneath the dishwasher. But eventually I got them. Overall, the whole process took me a while. But the video was really helpful, and it's possible even for someone who isn't very good at this stuff. It saved me about 200-300 dollars too. Thanks!
Thank you for this video. My issue was the hose connecting the pump to the drain had come off. I just purchased a metal strap from the hardware store and put the hose back on. $2.19 repair! Thank you!!!
Just replaced the pump and motor assembly as you have demonstrated. Thanks! But I'm getting the exact same grinding noise upon trying to start the dishwasher. Dishwasher grinds without really starting or filling and so we turn it off. Any suggestions?
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Thank you for the informative video! I have an issue where the spin arms on my Whirlpool WDT710PAYM6 are not spinning. I want to check the chopper assembly, but don't even know how to get at it on this model. Can you help? I have removed the pump and motor based on this video, but don't know what to do next to get at the chopper. If the issue is the chopper only, I would hate to have to replace the complete pump and motor... Thank you!
I am looking at this fix for a Whirlpool Gold Series model w10632081a/ WDT720PADM . I see the entire sump and motor assembly being installed here. I believe the issue is just with the pump. Can I just replace the dishwasher wash pump? It is about 1/3rd the cost. Is it a much more difficult repair than just removing the entire assembly?
This is the same motor/filters setup as mine. I believe my chopper assembly is broken or something solid is tumbling around in there. Is the only solution to change the entire pump and motor assembly?
Jeff, trying adding water manually to a load. If it cleans better than the water inlet valve is likely restricted and causing the poor wash performance.
+Jeff Raymon how did you access the blade? my dishwasher looks exactly like this. my dishwasher is 2 months old & it just doesn't seem to have enough pressure also.
my dishwasher fills with water, and drains, but doesn't circulate water. It's silent during that stage of the cycle except for sometimes a click click noise. No humming. How do I know if it's the circulation pump, or the motor? Is the motor the same for the circulation pump and the drain pump? I'm presuming the motor is okay because the draining does work. It's a kenmore elite, manufactured by whirlpool.
Thanks for the video, helped a lot to take that sucker a part. I have a problem that I can't figure out and can't find anything online, how to fix and what can possibly could be wrong with my dishwhasher. Everything seems to be working just fine spraying arms, draining or drying, however after wash is done all the inside of the stainless steel interior covered in some kind of black oil! And it's not like any cooking oil, more like a motor oil, all black. I've washed all inside of the dishwasher by hand and ran a wash, just to see black oil back all over the tub.Does anyone have any ideas what can it be?
This was an excellent video! However I have the WDT780SAEM2. It has an extra red wiring harness that is the same size as the blue and brown one.. There is an extra connector at the very bottom that wasn't on the video. I don't remember which color went to which location. Any help on which color goes where or pointing me to a wiring diagram would be greatly appreciated.
