Whirlpool Front-Load Washer Replace Door Boot Seal WPW10340443 

I am a fairly handy and motivated woman who has tackled a few repair projects myself to save money. The most difficult part of this project was definitely getting the spring-loaded boot clamp around the outside of the rubber boot when reassembling the washer. It seemed as though I would feed the metal loop as far as possible around the grove, and then as I tried to stretch the spring, the metal ring would make the rubber boot pop out of the grove. This happened the first few times I attempted to get that sucker back in place, so I thought I'd share how I managed it, in case it helps someone else. The guy in the video used a clamp to secure the metal ring at the top, but I didn't have one handy, and I tackled the project when my husband and kids were out of the house (I think another set of hands might have helped, as well). The trick that seemed to work for me was to go barefoot and place my big left toe to the left of the spring to hold the metal ring in place in the groove. As I did this, I fed the metal clamp around as much of the boot as I could and held it in the groove with my left hand on the right side of the boot, and then used the needle-nosed pliers in my right hand to stretch the spring as much as possible to get the metal around the grove, working the metal into the grove farther with my left hand. The only thing that was not in place at this point was the spring, and I was able then to flip it into place with my left hand as my right hand/pliers continued to stretch the spring and hold the metal loop in place in the grove. That was not easy, but it was finally what worked to get the clamp back in place. Everything else was relatively simple with the proper tools. As for the boot, be sure to examine what model of the Duet you own before ordering. There are different capacities of the Duet washers, so I had to open the washer door to find the sticker that told me the exact model number before I could find the proper model number/size of the boot I needed.

This is a dope repair vid. I just did this repair, it took me an hour. My boot seal was moldy and it stunk, so I decided to replace it. Between the time I ordered the seal, and today, the boot seal quit draining water. It was not full of water when I inspected the part before ordering the new part, but today when I went to replace it, it was full of water. After I took the old one off, I noticed a couple drain holes at the lower portion of the seal interface was clogged up full of lint and gunk. I spent a few minutes cleaning this area out using paper napkins and a screwdriver (to guide the napkin down the crevice). I also made sure the drain holes were free of lint and gunk. What the video doesn’t mention, is that when putting the new seal back on, there are a couple tabs to line up at the very bottom and the very top. Make sure you line the tab of the boot seal up with the lower notch on the housing. The outer seal spring clamp was a PITA, but a needle nose plier and some strength was all I needed, that was the only portion that slowed me down. After I got it put back together, I ran some pure bleach through the machine to hopefully get rid of the mold and gunk that I couldn’t see. The inside of the detergent tray opening has some mold growing also.

Important: When putting the new seal back on, make sure to align the bottom of the seal first. There are 5 holes in the inside of the seal that need to align with 5 drain holes. (I have simply copied a previous comment by Jon Stewart that is old and near the bottom of the comments. It would be helpful if the video could be edited to emphasize this info, even just adding a text comment at the 3:26 mark). The first time I watched this video I did not pay attention and noticed the seal was actually blocking the holes and preventing the inside of the seal from draining after each cycle. Additionally the misaligned seal did not let the door shut easily and that messed with the door lock sensor. Long story short, watch this video to the 3:26 mark. You see an arrow on the bottom of the grey seal pointing down. Make sure that grey seal lines up perfectly with the white line on the washer body and those drain holes will be just fine! I actually placed two extra long drill bits through the holes in the seal and the holes in the machine to make sure they stayed aligned as I put the rest of seal on all away around the rim. This was an awesome video. Not that bad of a job once you so it the second time! ;) PS- save time and get yourself a power screw driver!

Excellent step-by-step video! Saved me in $235 in labor charges! Same steps for my WFW95HEXW0, except I have an added step of removing a LED light that pulls out of the top of the door boot. Cleaned out the pump drain filter & reservoir while the front of the machine was open (highly recommend doing this)! My original door boot seal gave out in the front bottom of the seal (tore like paper with a push of my finger after 8 years of use). Well see how long this next one lasts. The new door seal was $197. I really miss my old top loader!

Thank you! I couldn't figure out how to disassemble my washer until I saw this. Following the video instructions helped me find a leaking hose from the wash tub to the drain pump, which I replaced myself. That probably saved me hundreds of dollars in repair costs. As a bonus, with the front panel removed I noticed the little trap/clean-out plug and removed a bunch of hair, lint, and loose change that had accumulated for over 4 years. There was no mention of that in the owners manual, probably because it's so difficult to access.

Thank you for this video. Six years after you posted it, it’s still super helpful! 49 yr old mum of one! 😊

My appliance guy refused to install an oem seal and I had to do this myself, took a while but the instructions were all on point. Great satisfaction at getting project completed. Thank you.

This video was very handy. Very clear instructions, well paced, not a bunch of filler junk. Very helpful, especially the clamps recommendation to re-affix the outer part of the seal. Thank goodness I had some handy, that was a real tricky bit for me.

I know this is a very old video, but maintenance of these washers is still a current item. MEGA thanks for the incredibly well done video. Made it easy. And boy was it nice to get rid of the old moldy seal, which no matter how often you dry it right after a wash, still gets ugly after 8 years. Plus, your team always has the proper part of the job. Great biz! Genuinely appreciate your helpful videos and excellent appliance stock of parts.

Awesome content. Once diagnosed, followed removal/installation of door switch. Gave up trying to install spring clamp so back to youtube. Used 2 clamps (1 at 12 o'clock and 1 at 8 o'clock) needle nose stretched spring and viola'. Thank you for the tutorial. Very user friendly.

Great video. So helpful! As a warning to others attempting this, the boot clamp is awful to get on. It will take a good deal of patience.

I really cannot thank you enough! I could rebuild the transmission in a weekend but the way these things are thrown together, is ridiculous you have to disassemble so much just to pull out a way overpriced Rubber seal! Thank you for saving me a immense amount of time!

The video was very helpful and made it look quick and easy. The replacement is more tedious than technical but putting on the clamp wire at the end was a 2-person job. I also recommend some system like labelled plastic baggies for remembering which screws go where. The whole process was almost 2 hours for me and I'm pretty handy. Everything seems to work!

I ordered this part today. Your videos are very helpful. I’ve installed many parts on this washer using your videos. I’m not saying I don’t get extremely frustrated. But at least eventually I get it done.

To mount the outer spring -- I got half of it seated and clamped, then used some water and a little dish soap to lubricate the rest of the boot surface so the wire would slide into place with some carefully applied pressure. Much simpler than fighting with it dry. Also helpful when mounting small tires on rims.

This video was amazingly helpful! Watch to see how he reattaches the spring wire. It was the toughest thing for me. Thank you for posting this! I would not have tackled this if it was not available.

I have a Whirlpool Duet (ghw9100lw2) with similar issues with the load always having a mildew-y smell. I bought the bellow off Amazon & installed it using this video. I also purchased a drain hose, but didn’t need one. I also cleaned out the debris in the drain. While all the parts were out, I cleaned all the surfaces including the inside of the dump tube. Pretty straightforward, thanks for the video!

Excellent video! I was able to repair this myself by using this video as a detailed guide. For putting back on the outer ring, which is the hardest part (but not really very hard) I suggest using the clamp method as shown in the video. I clamped both the top and one side, then I was able to stretch the spring using a needle nose pliers without any specialized tools.

Fantastic video, clear, concise and helpful! Please note that the "tools required" section of the description left out the support block and the 5/16" socket or nut driver needed at 2m19 - I had to run back to the basement for both! Also a heads up that the outer spring clamp is the most difficult assembly step by several orders of magnitude. Whole process took about 1h30m, including scrubbing everything I could access while I had the washer opened up.

Fantastic video! My washer exactly so no surprises. Thank you so much for the detailed tutorial. That final outer spring was tough but I finally got it in place. Thank you! BTW, text cycle complete - no leaks to report.

Thanks for the simple and step by step tutorial. Saved me a ton of money. My wife was ready to replace the set because of the unsightly moldy looking buildup on the oem seal. $100 for a new seal and shes happy again.

I ordered the part and we DIY’d this ourselves! So gratifying! Thank you for such a clear, concise, and informative video!

This video was extremely helpful with the right mix of detail and video support. I have a Westinghouse model WFW 94HEAW0. I edged the video through its sequence step by step as I worked on the unit. Thank you for posting this repair instruction video.

Thanks for making this video! It definitely would have taken me much longer without such clear instructions. I bought the seal from your website because I appreciate the quality of this video. Keep up the great work!

Terrific video. I had a tremendous amount of gunk and mold on my unit and replacing the seal was the only way to get it clean again. Took me about 4 hours as a reasonably competent DIYer. WRT the comments about the outer ring, yes it is a struggle but just follow the video - if you watch closely the person pulls on the spring as they go counter-clockwise around the unit, once you do that it gives you the slack that is needed to position the ring correctly. There's no need to go crazy with soap or anything. Just pull.

Excellent repair! Worked like a charm. Thank you for making. Will be sure to purchase replacement parts from you next time.

Thank you, because of your video I lost 2 hours but I saved a couple 100 dollars.

Thank you SO much for this video, super clear and the repair worked perfectly!!!

Thank you! Video helped step by step. The clamp suggestion is a plus!!

My solution for the outer boot clamp stickiness. I treated it like a bike tube, I lubricated the outside of the boot with soap and water as suggested below, clamped the ring to the flange with a pair of needle nose vise grips at the top, then I seated the left hand (hinge) side, I then placed a long flat head screw driver under the clamp ring, next to the spring, which I placed at the bottom, I then canted the screw driver towards the outside of the machine, holding the ring in place under the shaft and tip of the screw driver, applying just enough pressure to hold it in place. I hold that screw driver with the left hand, then with the right hand I place a second flat head screw driver similarly, but underneath the ring, on the opposite unseated side, angling it to plan for sliding the clamp along the shaft until it seats, I then pull it around with consistent pressure and my thumb on the boot, tucking the ring into its seat with my fore fingers as I pull around to the spring. You will see the spring stretch on its own and then pop into place.

This video is a life saver. So helpful and very, very clear. Thank you!

This was such a great video! Thank you so much for being clear and thorough. I'm pretty pleased with myself that I did this! :)

Perfect video. Really appreciated having this to watch before tackling this project myself. Super clear and helpful.

Thank you I watched the video and fixed the washing machine your explanation was complete thank you very much from the Netherlands

This videos are life savers for women that try to fix things around the house and save some extra bucks. This technicians nowadays have a tendency of overpricing their work, especially when a woman is involved. I'm sick of them, 👎Thank you so much for the tutorial, I really appreciate it, 👍👏.

useful, that's difficult to install steal wire upon bellow,

Tips or tricks?: Getting the new rubber 'boot''s first inner side to stay on the plastic rim was the hardest part for me. It kept sliding off as I was working it around the rim. Finally had to get my wife for a second set of hands to hold the top most areas on while I worked the lower portions. Doing it alone must take some tricks or practice. The videos make it look so easy. My model had shaped cement weights on the top and bottom of the outer drum that made the boot install harder to get you fingers into.

Excellent video. I did have a lot of trouble with the spring-loaded clamp that goes on the outside of the boot. I did not have enough strength to pull the spring using the needle nose pliers with one hand while trying to set the cable into the boot. My wife helped me and I was able to pull the spring with two hands and then she was able to set the cable into the boot. I did put a clamp at the top as shown in the video. Also thanks to some of the comments I realized before I got everything completed that I did not line those five holes at the bottom of the gasket with the holes in the flange. Luckily I was able to loosen the inner spring and simply turn the entire gasket just a little bit so that all the holes lined up.

I’m thankful for this helpful video! Thankyou very much!!!

Thanks, I completed the replacement in about an hour.....and now I feel like a can start an appliance repair business 😎🤑🤭

Helpful - had to replace gasket on two year old washing machine. Inside still looks the same. If you want to move front access panel, look carefully for wire connected to it or it will yank (soldier is very weak - had to resoldier). Used two clamps to get gasket on.

Thank you for this perfect step-by-step video! I was able to do this project on my own (with the exception of that nasty front spring loop - that required extra hands).

Good Video! I'm sure it saved me at least an hour of figuring it all out for myself

Instructions were very clear. This was not a difficult repair. While the front cover is off, I highly recommend opening the cleanout trap below the drum. It gets filled with mung and lint. Needed an extra pair of hands to replace the outer loop boot seal. Should have read the comments below about lubricating with soapy water for easier installation. Wish I had done this years ago.

Thank you for your help. I was able to change my boot myself. It’s very helpful.

Video helps a lot didn't know about the boot clamps didn't see them at 1st glance.

This was a great video. One point that was not obvious though is that there are small holes in the lower edge of the rubber boot that MUST line up with the holes in the plastic piece behind it. We were off by maybe 1/4 inch and after a wash the boot would be full of water. So we had to do the whole job twice.

This video is extremely helpful in removing and replacing this drum boot. My one suggestion is that when you line up the boot seal and put it over the steel lips of the drum, make sure that the drain holes in the bottom of the boot lineup with the weep holes in the steel drum so they don't get blocked and can drain properly.

Great instructions. Outer spring a little difficult. I’m sure the smell will come back but at least I saved $300 this time. Gladly pay for the speed queen top loader next time.

Wow! Thank you for making it look so easy with your precise instructions!!

Thanks for video and this video makes whole job a piece of cake. Only thing is mines is stacked dryer and washer. It is a daunting task to me as there are no extra pair of helping hand to carry the top dryer down to do the work. Finally I figured out to put a sturdy same washer height shelving next to the washer and pushed the dryer onto the shelving, replace the boot, put everything back and push back the dryer. Job is well done. Thanks again! This save me 250 dollars labor.

I was able to change the gasket without taking the machine apart. We had a stacked dryer and washing machine so to take it apart would require taking 2 machines down and then one apart. You can do it if you don't mind tight spaces. It helps to have a short philips screw driver. So you take the front gasket off. Then you remove the water intake. Next you loosen the ring clamp. Taking it apart does help with seeing what needs to be done but not necessary. Once the ring clamp is off you remove the gasket. By you I mean you push it aside don't pull it out or you can distort the ring clamp and it will never go back on. So keep the ring clamp inside the metal housing and work around it. You are trying to remove the rubber gasket. Now I had to release the ring clamp somewhat and push it back over the drum housing. Then you make sure you align the intake with the gasket. If you put the gasket on wrong the intake won't fit properly and you can't rotate gasket easily. So this step is crucial and can save you a headache. Once you get the alignment right then start fitting the gasket. Use small clamps to hold gasket in place and go all the way around fitting the groove in gasket with groove in frame. The ring clamp has a channel in gasket. Once the gasket is properly slide the ring clamp off the drum housing onto the gasket itself. Use the small screw driver to tighten clamp. Pull intake through gasket. Then put the outer gasket back on. It was just too much trouble to actually remove the dryer. This takes a lot less time than taking the whole machine apart. About 30 minutes.

Thank you so much very easy installment, now my wife thinks im a handyman 😂💪🏾

Used 4 vice grips around the spring loaded boot clamp to hold it in place then inserted needle nose pliers in spring then stretched for final install.

Thanks for the video. I had my 5 year old granddaughter helping me, and she and Grammy succeeded together. Definitely need to be careful with back band to be sure holes line up - we had to take it apart the first time because the holes moved. Emma learned a lot, and so did I. I did have trouble with the door lock locking, but am running it right now, and the lock is locked. Agree that I will never buy another front loader - not worth the aggravation of the mold issues - especially living in the woods!!

Awesome video. With your help, I made quick work switching out the gaskets. I would add that while you have the washer tore apart, you should clean the trap as well. Lay a towel down, twist open the trap, water will drain out, clean the trap and reinstall tightly.

Best how-to video of all time!!!!!!

Awesome job, did this on my washer. Wasnt too bad even though i never worked on a washer before. Only downside is parts from manufacturers are so expensive.

These instructions also work for the Maytag MHW6000AW0.

Hi I have the Maytag maxima model which I guess is pretty similar to this. I have one question I can see that the gasket isn’t aligned with the inner seal of the tub and when I try pulling it won’t get aligned. Should I call warranty or is this normal?

saved my day thanks mate .

Awesome video! I was able to fix my washer! Subscribed! Thanks 🙏

Thank you this was a huge help, the only thing different on my model of washer is ours has a light going into the door seal and I had to cut the hole in the bottom of right side tube of the door seal (The tube is clearly seen @ 2:31) like the dispenser tube, so the light can shine though. no leaks after 10 or so washes. Thanks again.

Mil gracias por el video fué muy útil para realizar el cambio del repuesto.

My washer doesn't have any screws behind the detergent tray. Any ideas about how to get the front panel off?

Yes, putting on the boot clamp was a nightmare, only after you believe it's possible, can it be done. Also, be sure to replace the bottom panel (if you have one) before 'testing' to see if your repair works. There's a safety ground in the panel that shuts off the washer went it detects the panel is not in place... That took a while figure out! Good luck fellow DIY

IMPORTANT: Important: When putting the new seal back on, make sure to align the bottom of the seal first. There are 5 holes in the inside of the seal that need to align with 5 drain holes. (Copied from Doug) I had to remove and reinstall once I realized my error - and didn’t pay attention to this comment in the first place.

One important tip. If you have a hose that connects to the top of the seal, make sure and remove the plastic piece, which sprays water inside of the tub, and install it on the new seal. If you don't do this, water will leak outside the seal, on the top.

Exactly what I needed. Thanks!!

I did this and my Maytag front loader is still dripping from the bottom. I even took the counter weight off and checked the tub for cracks. Any other ideas of what to check?

Great video. Thanks!!

be very careful when installing the top part of the door boot seal for the inner loop... the metal above is incredibly sharp and i cut my thumb...then i used a towel to cover that horizontal metal piece just above!

Thank you, Awesome guide!!

That technique of attaching the band with the spring was what made this job easier

That was so helpful. Thank you!

Thank you so much for this video!!!

Where can i find a new boot? Or how much is it? Mine ripped and i need to get a new one

Tricky indeed to get spring loaded boot clamp around the outside of the rubber boot when reassembling the washer. I lubricated the outside edge of rubber boot with Ivory dishwashing soap and a bit of water - just like they do with installing car tires on rims. Then I used 2 1/4 inch round hardwood dowels to slide up between the metal boot clamp and the rubber boot -- much like installing a tire on a bike rim. It worked!

My bellow adheres right to the washing machine without a clamp. Like it's glued there. Is this normal? It is a whirlpool wfw9050xw03. We just purchased a bellow replacement and cant continue on with the repair because the old bellow is apparently glued to the washing machine? Any advice?

Great video!

Outside spring is close to impossible to install, but after two days it's finally in ...and leaking.

Before I researched about the replacement part I played whack-a-mole using Flex Seal and any number of sealant products; since there are so many vendors that offer a wide variety of gaskets these front loaders are obviously the red haired stepchildren of design engineers. It seems reasonable to expect a critical component such as this gasket to prevent leakage during normal operation would last the life of the appliance. In any event once you find a helpful vendor who will point you to the correct version gasket for your model number (our Whirlpool Duet does not have an inlet port from the detergent dispenser into/thru the gasket)... the disassembly and reassembly does not go as quickly nor as cleanly as either demonstration video I watched. Most especially the gasket retainer rings... it doesn't matter during disassembly (unless you break either of the tension springs) but during reassembly I feared tearing either the inner or outer gasket attempting to replace the retainer springs. When I failed with the first two attempts on the inner cable I disconnected one end of the cable and lengthened the slack just as you would disassemble a radiator hose clamp and reconnect when get the cable correctly positioned. I gave up with the outer spring at the door and replaced with a slightly longer spring It is obvious to me that despite the fact that these components are expected to fail they are not designed for simplified DIY maintenance. Nevertheless the videos are very helpful being able to pause if you become confused or need to review while you work.

Thanks for the video

Very helpful! Thank you!!!!

Can I use the seal from a whirlpool for an Amana washing machine???

Thank you SO much for this!

Thanks. Fantastic video.

Best video ever!!!

The easiest repair on a whirlpool washer is to replace the whirlpool washer with a better product. I have had nothing but problems. This will be the second time I have replaced the boot. I have replaced the water pump, the main control panel, as well as hoses. This thing sucks. Watching this again to replace the seal yet again.

What you failed too show on the video was the 4 other people helping put the boot over the ridge.

D WASHER IT HAS NO BOOT AROUND DOOR THE TUB WOBBLES DO I NEED TO PUT ON A BOOT

After changing the door boot(bellow) did anyone experience a dry rub from the door boot to the metal drum during the wash cycle??

Thank you too!

Thank you

Mine had an arrow at the 12 o'clock position in the old gasket, I traced it with a sharpie before removing it to align with the same spot on the new one

My washer is model number W10775514A, will this seal fit my washer?

Thanks!

What is the rubber boot seal part number? Please and thanks!

would this also be the same steps for the Whirlpool W10381562 Bellow?

Thanks