Link to parts from iFixit: Whirlpool Evaporator Fan w/ Thermal Sensor: ifix.gd/3TvVEm0 Alternate fan kit (check model#, W11087438): ifix.gd/3TzECDu Damper Assembly: ifix.gd/4gwd4IL Evaporator Drain Pan Trey: ifix.gd/3BdSmxl
Have a carbon copy of the fridge and same problem. Inspected, cleaned and tested all components as instructed in your video, everything checked out to be working fine. I had to call a Whirlpool repair man. Diagnosing was correct except there was one more thing to check, the fan. The tiny fan that blows the cool air up to fridge. That was the problem, a none functioning cooler fan. After showing the repair man what I had diagnosed he only charged me $530.00 for 4mins of work to replace the fan.....lol. Works fine now.
@@EddieGomesCandmore the fan is located in the freezer back wall. Take out the sliding drawer and then the back plating. This is where you’ll find the fan. Hope this helps you out.
Excellent diagnostic video, I loved every minuet of it. These style fridges can be hard to work on, I like the idea of checking the defrost cycle with amp draw. And I might have to add a Kill-o-Watt gizmo to my tool bag.
It's very handy to have a kill-a-watt meter for this and other projects. I was able to verify that my heater element was working by going into the step number 38 and observing 448Watts on the similar counter depth 2 door model
Excellent tutorial to understand the refrigerator air flow and actually defrost the AC with code 38 and then airflow and cooling temperature return to normal. Possibly frozen evaporator or fan as a result of not shutting the door properly.
@grot4941 1 minute ago Hi Ben I have been trying to fix my friend's Whirlpool WRT318 fridge. It was blowing cold air, the compressor current draw was 0.52 A, and there was a glob of ice around the tubing/capillary in the upper right corner of the freezer. Based on your video, I determined that the fridge was low on refrigerant and added some. The current draw went up to 0.9 A and the fridge started to cool. The problem now is that the compressor never stops. The last time I checked the fridge temperature was getting to 29 F and the compressor kept running, the freezer's temperature was 7 F and would never get any lower. The temperature setting was at its lowest (warmest) setting. The diagnostic test (thanks for your video) didn't show any problems. Of course, I checked the evaporator fan, defrost, cleaned condenser coils, etc., Any ideas? P.S. My friend bought it used. It came with a piercing valve installed, so someone had already added refrigerant in the past.
Thank you for your video. I had ice buildup on the refrigerator evaporator in a dual evaporator system. Ran test for evaporator fan and it won’t run. Replaced RC evap fan (with sensors) and MCB. Still throwing e-1 code on test 56 (ice maker test - cooling error) also replaced fan in ice maker compartment and ice maker. For a week I’ve been putting battery powered fan blowing across refer evaporator and it works and makes ice. I’ve traced wires on diagram. Getting 14v from power board but not on MCB. I’m at a complete loss. Please tell me why my refrigerator evaporator won’t run. (Tested damper and it works.
@@MattMathisSoftwareGuy appreciate the comment. I replaced RC Evap fan and both thermistors in Refrigerator. I’ve traced the schematic and believe the Evap fan isn’t getting a signal from the reverser valve. Replacing the reverser valve is beyond my repair capability. I’m not doing a Freon purge, vacuum, desoldering/resoldering, and refiling coolant on a 9 year old fridge. The compressor is most likely at the end of its service life anyway.
Hey, I have a very similar build to this fridge. I do have the crispers above the bottom drawer. Getting ready to replace it. Not sure how old it is, but it came with the house we bought in Dec 2020. Only 2 of the interior lights have ever worked, though occasionally they would all work for maybe 5-10 seconds, then flicker and turn off. Closing the door and opening would result in the usual 2 LED's working again. But about 16-18 months ago the fridge began resetting. Sometimes it would do this every 10 seconds, every couple minutes or every 10 minutes, non-stop for days or weeks, then it would go back to normal. I did notice freezer items (especially eggo waffles) being soft, as if they weren't cold enough. But it would still freeze. The fridge part I was concerned about potential food spoilage (specifically dairy), though the ice maker has been functioning fine and the ice has stayed ice, so I guess that's a good sign. When it is resetting in short intervals I will just unplug the fridge for 10-15 minutes as it seems like it might not be great for the compressor. I've looked up the issue and it seems to be control board related, but there are 3 total on this fridge and apparently its somewhat of a crapshoot as to which one will resolve the problem, if it resolves it at all. I will say though, it was a great (huge) fridge prior to these issues. Debating on whether to toss it in the garage when we replace it and maybe do a teardown and clean it up, see if there is anything obvious (a short) that could be causing problems. Other than the lighing and resetting, everything else seems to work as intended. Just want to say thanks, since your videos will definitely help me remove panels without having to scratch my head too much and, of course, save me some time.
Thanks! Please do more repair, troubleshooting, and tear-down videos on that Whirlpool French door fridge with an ice maker. It's the model I bought at Costco last year... so I expect some problems in a few years after the extended warranty expires. I already have a problem with the center flip piece that it doesn't click/snap all the way back, so when I close the left door, it might bang on the right door (closed) since the center flap stick out a little bit. I have to call it in for a warranty repair here soon.
In a lot of the side by side fridges I've seen, with one in my possession as of now, the thermistors are designed terribly wired inside the side of the wall. Even several technicians said they'd never seen anything like it, and deemed the product unrepairable. One of my family members when pulling something out of the freezer tore off the thermistor cover, breaking the freezer entirely and potentially messing up the fridge defrost. Now I'm going for side by side Maytag with no icemaker
Did you ever make a video for the freezer section? I have ice outside that panel, which probably means there is ice inside the panel. There is some rattling noise, which gets louder when you open the freezer. I think it is some fan? Either way. I need to figure out how to get to that panel.
I have this fridge bought it 3 years ago, before i found your channel, dang. No issues yet...and at least i got some hope i can fix it. Would you recommend turning off the ice maker?
Amazing video, wish I had found this two days ago tearing everything apart. Would have saved me some headache. I have a unit with the upper evaporator; any chance you know where I could find just a replacement thermistor/sensor? I was impatient and couldn't find the right part that would get here quickly so I overnighted a moisture resistant 12v 92mm fan with a resistor inline to step down from 14v input. I'd like to avoid buying another whole replacement when I could just splice an new thermistor into the wiring harness.
Right on. Problems I see on dual evaps is in rentals with weekly turnovers. Clogged coil. Temps maxed. FF EVAP freezes. Overwhelms defrost. Unplug for 24hrs to thaw. Nuisance issue.
Whirlpool WRX988SIBM01 - I have a bad thermistor, but don't know where it's located in this fridge. I ordered the replacement part W11168403. Thanks for any help.
Hey I have to ask….I have a model wrx986sihz02 (whirlpool). I had a ton of ice buildup in the bottom of the freezer so I unclogged and flushed the drain pipe and now that issue is fixed. However, I still have ice/frost buildup on the evaporator cover behind the crisper. I’d like you opinion on how to proceed to fix this issue? I know in this video you touched on the fact that this is common with this model and a sensor replacement may be needed. Thanks…..Alex
This my fridge!!!! $2000 and only worked 5 years. Freezer is working fridge is not. I got the beeping like doors are open and it was powering on and off. Guy came to check it and said all codes are fine but it's reading low voltage. He took control panel off plugged it back in and fridge worked again.... it was 38 degrees this morning now its reading 58 degrees 12 hours later freezer is 19 degrees. Total garbage and can't find any one who knows any thing about them.
Hello I have the same problem still on my whirlpool refrigerator I changed the damper and the fan and thermal system on my dual evaporator system and my unit is still not cooling and I did have ice build up what else is still causing this problem
It's me again, on my fridge none of the cold air travels from the below freezer to the upper fridge. After a few days the freezer ices up thereby blocks the internal fan. I already replaced the fan and the thermistor, but I still have the same problem. So I believe it's the damper door that doesn't open when it should. thanks
Just found your channel so informative thank you I have a 2005 Frigidaire gallery model number GLRT183TDWB And since I’ve had it in 2014, the freezer has never kept things frozen it keeps water frozen and frozen vegetables OK but you can’t have ice cream I researched it and I think it might be the damper switch? How much would that be? And how difficult is that to install? Thank you because of you I’m vacuuming in the back of my refrigerator today 🙌🏻
So having issues with freezing over for last two years on this model! Trying to put it into 8 hr defrost mode but don’t have my extra manual. How do I save it on mode two once there? TY
My whirlpool wrf535smbm00, the bottom freezer works/air coming out is really cold. The refrigerator up to still has a working blower fan but it's not coming out cold. What would you suggest I look at?
I have a whirlpool french door WRF736SDAM14 pretty sure it is a single evap model. Sears A/E tech came to my house and said I need to replace the evap fan..the freezer is cold not any cold air above the freezer. I am not sure where that is located, is there a video for that repair? He wanted to charge me $600. Thanks.
at 12:19 and 12:55 at the right there is a grey square paste packet. What is that called, and what is it supposed to do? I opened my fridge and some of it dripped onto the fins below.
I have a model WRF989SDAM02. Do you know of the parts you have listed will work with my model number. Most of these units say updated part. When I look them up. But I can't find these parts for my unit right now. This seems to be one wireharness each part on mine has its own disconnect it seems.
My fridge stopped cooling my freezer still works I've done everything behind the fridge possible then I saw this video and hopefully all it took was me cleaning the coils in the front of the fridge which I didn't know where there. I guess I will find out in the morning and I will be my wife's hero... thanks to you....... if it worked😂😂😂😂😂
My model is a rare model its WRF560SEYM04 there is only one video on the internet that i have found and it just discusses on how to fix a Freezer leak are freezer wasnt leaking but it wasnt freezing properly so i removed the shelves and took out all the ice and the frozer closed better and froze food better but now theres a new problem now are fridge part of are fridge isnt working at all if you have any advice or know how to fix it i would greatly appreciate any assistance you may have to offer at all
I have completely different problem. Everything freezes in my fridge Adjusted temp still. I think the ice maker or the freezer is freezing it all up in fridge
Ben, I ran a forced defrost and the compressor stays running. You mention it possibly being the board. Does the replacement board need programmed or is it plug and play? Also, can you trust parts off amazon? OEM part is $225, amazon is $30 lol
I have this exact fridge and hasn’t cooled in over a month and now it’s doing the door ajar beeping and on the digital window says p something I’m not sure I can’t read it I have no idea what to do to make it work
Hi, I have a gold series just like this one. Moved the fridge to new house, plugged it in and nothing comes on. No lights, no sounds, no display. There is power going to fridge, but nothing comes on, pure silence. Any thoughts?
Id double check and confirm its not a plug/outlet issue by using another outlet or extension cord. Otheriwse, that sounds like the board either died, or something is unplugged going to the board.
Hi Ben. I stumbled upon your channel and thought I'd ask for your advice. I have an LG refrigerator similar style to this Whirlpool (French doors on top for fridge and single bottom pull-out freezer). The freezer refuses to stay closed. I'm constantly shoving it to try to get it close and seal properly. The warranty I have is not helping at all. Technicians come by, clear out the minimal ice build-up, and leave. The next day I'm back to shoving it 3 to 5 times to get it to stay closed. The freezer Rails on bottom were replaced once but it didn't help. They said I had too much weight in the freezer but it's not even half full and we still can't keep it closed. Any tips? Thanks!😭
Hello I hope someone can help, I have a Whirlpool fridge freezer, freezer section is good (cold as it should be) fridge section temp control is set to 2c but it doesn’t get to that, temp hovers around 5-6c, no ice on coils, damper vent works it opens and closes, no dirt on condenser coils, something is telling the camper door to close early. Would anyone know what I can check, Fridge is cold but not cold enough. Thanks
Is nice video but it looks big job to open all Fridge to test part I advise techs to learn how to read schamatic you can do your troubleshooting just from control board thanks again
Great video , my whirlpool stopped producing ice a while ago and leaked sometimes through the Ice dispenser chute. I replaced three (3) and they only produced sporadically, now not at all, also the fridge section above seems to not get down to the 34-36° range I’ve set it at, it’s teetering around the 40° degree range often. Coils have all been cleaned and no Ice build up in the freezer area on those coils. I’m not sure what else to check with this any ideas ? Mode# WRX735SDBM00
These refrigerators are unnessessarily complex. There are too many components to go wrong. That, of course, is the objective, make them so expensive to service that you'll be forced to buy a new one.
@@bensappliancesandjunk Thanks for trying to help by posting videos and for responding to my comment. My model GX5SHDXVQ00 doesn't have the in door ice option but it has given me problems the whole time I've owned it. I had to replace the compressor relay not long after I bought it. It used to make loud banging noises when running. It sounded like a vent door slamming shut but it doesn't do that anymore. Now, for some reason, the refrigerator vent door doesn't open when the compressor is running so the freezer gets cold and the fridge doesn't. I propped the vent door open and it made the fridge drop down to 20 degrees. I went through the diagnostic procedure, as you demonstrated in another video. It passed all of the tests and the fridge vent door worked during the test. I like the layout of the fridge but I've had enough of the headaches. I plan to go back to a top mount freezer without a computerized control board.
Whirlpool should be ashamed of them selves for charging 50 bucks for a thin cheaply made plastic tray that you could make out of some sheet plastic and Super Glue.
I had this refrigerator less than 2 years. it is not cooling. The wire harness with thermal fuse is broke. This part takes more than 2 weeks lead time. I contacted Whirlpool customer service who does not respond nor offer any help. I will not recommend this model or Whirlpool product due to poor customer service.
Let me tell you something if this is what we have to do to maintain this refrigerator you need to take this shit back to the fucking factory and never release this type of product again.
The failures popped up about 3 to 5 years after they released and virtually all refrigerators with ice makers in the fresh food section have the same problem. People pay the price for in door ice.
