people always talk bad about a capacitor but they are really helpful, i have a small car and i have an extra battery and a capacitor with 2 amps. the problem is that people look at a capacitor as a fix and its not. without a capacitor or extra battery my car would dim like crazy. even with a second battery it would still dim, not as much though. so what i did was add both but only hook my sub amp to the cap and my 4 channel straight to the second battery. because the sub amp draws so much current, that would be the real reason you only put it on the sub amp, and now i have zero dimming issues. small cars really dont have a bunch of things pulling at the alternator so you can really get by without upgrading it. i bought my car brand new in 07" and ive been riding a stock alternator on various size systems still to this day. so the thing here is, if you have a small car with a reasonable size system and you dont want to spend the money on an upgraded alternator then your convenient choice would be to grab a battery and cap to help ease the current draw to have it spread out and not suddenly funneled. but if you have a bigger car or a bigger system then you definitely want to get a better alternator.
I was hoping to get this information and you explained it the best so far. Capacitors need to be charged before installing audio system or you can run your *Audio-System Installation* all together? Is there such thing as Capacitor eating up your battery?
Adding a battery or a cap will temporarily fix the problem. But what happens is that the alternator has to work harder to keep the new stuff fed. It will degrade both the battery and alternator faster than if you keep everything "balanced". If you have voltage issues. Get a better alternator. There's no way around getting better voltages and a stable and loud system.
I would recommend Yellow Top battery, I had it under my 99 Acura TL running a Skar audio 5 channel amp, Skar audio 6.5 speakers all around and 2 8inch subs IX from Skar audio all together about 600watts RMS (give or take) and no dimming or voltage drop 👍🏽
haha am also hear Because I have Skar subwoofer just got it it was hitting awesome and today shut off while playing and there's no power going to the Amp?
If headlights are dimming the system is under powered...after checking grounds etc... check wire gauge size for the intended amp draw... You may have to consider a high output alternator and or stiffening capacitor.
make sure if you have kinetik battery under the hood and have a secondary battery in the back , that secondary battery has to match the one up front cranking amps and power wise
Hey sir I got a question when I have my sub amp on while car is on running only bass amp turns off and mids and highs still continues, but when car is off i can turn up the volume and it won’t turn off???? What will that be ....,??
i put a JL Audio 13w7 into my 2012 Chevy Impala with the JL Audio 1000w rms amp and when I turn the volume up to bass harder and louder the bass turns off and on. I have heard about the big 3 upgrade but the negative battery cable has a sensor on it that regulates the voltage. The sensor on the negative battery cable does not have enough room to add a larger ground cable through. What is a solution to fix this problem??
Ok i bought a brand new battery..rechecked all my connections..no faulty wiring..in my case the bass cuts out when i turn it up and the amp stays on..could it be a capacitor inside the amp?
So i have a kicker kx 2400.1 same issue but no lights dimming.. I cant get it up loud enough without going into protect to see anything .. could i have a bad capacitor in my amp
I have 2 amps highs and lows. When i turn the volume up and bass hits low amp goes out and comes back on. Noticed the the ground is over the paint gonna grind paint to bare metal hope this works
I have this issue also, but only when the car is running and i tap the accelerator. I've done the big three and im getting a nice solid 14.8V when running. 0 gauge power and ground, but when the bass hits my other amp goes into protect, if i do the same while the car is not running i do not get any issues. All connections are secure.
@@alexhosu8561 so I had a pioneer amp and my cars voltage peaked to 15.4 and it put the amp into protect due to being over powered. Now my car had start stop and the battery was charged at a higher voltage than a normal battery.
I put a bigger police issue alternator in my car , and bought a really thick earth cable from the battery to the body , it is not actually a voltage issue it is AMPS and what the alternator is outputting , you don’t have a big enough alternator with output of higher amps all that happens is you draw from the battery while driving and not from the alternator
plan and simple , you have a 2000 watt max system? change alternator to a 180 to 250 amp and switch battery for an agm xs power or kinetik battery that can handle what your putting out (2000)
so I have an issue... im using a small amp for my desk to power my speakers, and if i have my amp over 75% volume and any low sound emits, my amp led dims and the sound distorts like crazy... could a capacitor fix that issue?
I have a question the sound goes off after it starts to hit but the amp stays on and it's not in protection mode . The amp is in a cool place . It's weird as long as I keep it low it's good . I was thinking it might be a lose wire were it's connected in side the box or can it be something else ?
i guys i have the same problem .. but i have a 2 battery in the boot no drop the bass just gos off only started when i installed a junsun v1 pro ,, my old crappy one worked ok
Ok im.having the same issue the Only thing different is that I have 3 agm batteries 2 batteries in the back. And one under the hood and I have upgraded the alternator 350amp. Amp is still shutting off.
Hey guys I have a similar issue as well. I just installed a kicker 12 L7 in my car it’s a dual 4ohm sub. I have a brand new kicker cxa1200.1 amp I have a capacitor as well hooked up. Every time I turn up the volume and the bass hits this amp goes into protection mode. I swapped it out for another one and the same thing is happening. Can anyone throw me some ideas on what it could possibly be?
Im having this issue amp shuts down 6 main grounds 6 power 2 awg welding cable 2 390 a brand x alts resting v is 15.8 under load it's 15.4 on lithium. But bass kicks amp off. If i roll into it from bass knob its fine but if a 35 or higher hz tone hits it cuts off till i turn it off and back on. I dont get it. Preout voltage is dialed in. Doesn't do it from 14 to 28hz ???
im running 2 amps 1 is 350watts for mids and the other is 1400watts for bass. im using two batteries to run them. and while i play music it cuts off ?? help me please.
I have a CT sounds 1500 watt monoblock amp pushing two tens and when I turn the bass boost knob up too high the amp shuts off, do I need a stronger alternator?
My amp that's hook to my sub goes to protect when the bass starts to hit and my power is good IV got 14.7 volts at the power cap but I can't figure out the problem????
I have two amps hooked up. fosgate T1500 and 400x4 . as I was driving the system turned off. when I got home I realized the fuse had blown between the battery and amp. I replaced it and the bass amp (t1500) keeps goin into protect mode when when I turn it up. After checking a bit looks like one of the subs has blown out (stuck). will replacing the subs be the only issue?
Question. Why is it that my subs make a vibrating noise when the stereo is turned off and my gain is all the way up it makes the noise but when it's turn halfway or all the way down it's quiet??? I've checked all my grounds and connections I separated my RCA to my passenger side and I have my power wires my remote and my turn on wire all on the other side. I do not know how to fix this can someone or you please give me a idea or advice.
Hey guys i have my stock radio in still.i used a line out converter from my stock car sub to put in a after market amp on a after market sub.and same done with my speaker doors.the problem i have my amp that runs the door speakers is perfect.but as soon as the bass hits my sub's amp goes in protection mode, I have moved and cleaned my ground,the ground is at the same spot for both amps but my sub's amp still switches of.power cables and remote cables are all bridged from my sub's amp what can i check next? Ground looks good and volts is perfect. Can it be if my sub is stronger then the amp that it does that? My amp is a 4 channel and i only use 2 channels for my one sub was going to do 2 subs.
Got a car with 4 box speakers in the trunk sounded OK but took two out for space issues and had to replace the rear car speakers then the bass makes it cut in and out didn't do the hook up wrong and made sure the replacements matched the ones in there why is it doing this I took out the other speakers for saving power any answers
My kenwood kdc-mp338 deck dims when the bass hits but the headlights dont dim at all. I double checked the ground from the amp and it looks good and is secure. I took the system out of my old car and put it in my new car I dont understand why I'm getting the dim.
How do you know if the head unit is the problem? i have a BOSS 9967B DVD Receiver brand new with BOSS 500w 6x9,s in the front doors and rear shelf, i added a Memphis 4ch amp not sure of the wattage running just the rears in 2ch, and it cuts in and out even at low volumes, not completely can still hear just not as loud, plus the deck is 340w and is running the fronts but hardly have sound coming thru, all polarities correct, 10 guage power wire grounded good, and remote wire good, RCA wire good quality, im baffled? think amp is bad? but not completely sure.
When the bass hit the hives stay on but the base turns off and on the protection light comes on on the app and I have a second battery too like you said it might be aground that's messing up
I currently have a boss head unit running a VM 2farade cap, 1600 watt boss 4 channel amp, to two 10inch powerbass subs...my problem is...after of 10-15 minutes..amp kicks off..
I have 2 Crescendo amp 2000rms I just resent put in a 250amp alternator and have 2 red tops on it but when it hits that low note it cuts out I’m running 0 gauge wire with 250 fuse can’t figure it out different people say need bigger alternator and other say I need to have each amp with there own power wire coming from the alternator plz help
I have a 2003 Honda Accord V6 stock alt with 2 wires of 0gauge running from alt to battery and two of the same wire from negative to chasis and 2 from chasis to engine I have a Memphis audio amp with a 8 gauge wire input, i ran a 4 gauge wire from the battery back then attached the wire to a 8 gauge reducer, the battery has been upgraded to a two post rv battery, when the car is on the voltage is sitting at 14 volts when it’s off it’s sitting 12.2-13volts never less than that, I would like to add in that I take the battery out every 2weeks or so to recharge it, the problem I am faced with is while the car is running my bass is just fine but when I shut it off and play some music the bass goes in and out of protection mode, low volume whip car is of sounds just fine but higher volume with 12.2 volts it begins to clip and go in and out of protection mode, any tips would be greatly appreciative
I got 2 12 inch subs skar zvx 1500rms max 3000 peak and running taramp 8k when my bass hits not even hard it shuts off well it goes into protection mode once I shut the amp down and turn back on it goes back to normal but I also have a mecman alternator 370 and also 3 battery I have to zero gauge wire going to the 8k amp and 2 grounds I have 2 adapters to run 2 zero gauge power wires off the amp and 2 grounds my other amp witch is running 4 10inch voice speakers Its a 5k taramp that parts does not give me any problem at all it's only my bass the taramp amp is 8 thousand watt amp and runs at 1 ohm I have the subs wire to one ohm too what could be causing my amp to shut down when bass hits or just even turn it up it shuts off both my grounds where strip down too the body
Still wasn't enough bass,something seemed off. Brother in law hooked up his ford forscan went into audio turned on sub equlizer, the radio turned off and on and the bass came thru to where the doors were vibrating. Just an fyi
Can a bad voice coil cause a amp to go in protection when the bass hits? I have a new skar 2000.1d on 2 premier 12s 1k max watts bridged 2ohm. When I turn the bass knob not even a quarter ways the amp goes in protection. All my wires are new good ground n power. The speakers are used and kind of old. Anybody has any solutions?
My 3000 Watt 1000 RMS Pioneer Premier Subwoofer did the same thing. No matter what amp I put it on, the amp would go into protect as I cranked up the volume. But when I hooked up my Sundown subwoofer the amp was fine. My Pioneer 3000 watt subwoofer is 13 years old.
i jave a stock radio and a 1600 mono hifinox amp with 1 12' kicker cvr and either high or low volume my amp (stays on doesnt go in protection mode) cuts off the bass then comes back on after a min then does it again and when it does go off and i catch it i smack it and it comes back on
I like how they basically talked about improper charging system , low voltage . Never once did they mention anything about ohms or how the subs were wired etc .. could have been a 2ohm amp trying to go down to 1ohm or something along those lines . 🤷🏻♂️
If it was a wiring issue the amp would would be in protect mode from start and permanently be in it which is why he didn’t mention that. His response is clear as day and spot on to powerful a system for his car and alternator to handle Needs to buy a capacitor or better alternator. Cap should fix issue
Well I have a new battery but its only certain songs the amp will go into protect. Not sure if my wiring is wrong or if its got something to do with the amp itself
Hi can I ask why all of a sudden my stereo works on ignition but soon as engine running sound disappears from amp? Soon as car turned back to ignition sound reappears. Cheers guys
hi i been watching yr videos about subs cutting off when i am hitting them hard if i trun down in a min they come back on and sometimes if i shut off car and turn car back on the subs come on again i never have this problem until i crank up the bass ,my other question is i pumpin 2 12" with Kenwood amp 1000 watt what gauge power wire should I be running to supply them please let me know asap cause i gotta have my bass Dave
I have a 4guage hot wire going to a distribution block, with two 8 gauge hot wires going to two amps. one 8 gauge is going to a 380 watt RMS class AB Amp going to door speakers and 6 x 9s in the back. The other 8 gauge hot wire is going to a Mono block class D Alpine Amp pushing 500 watts rms to a single 750 watt subwoofer. I can turn the subwoofer off and turn it up as loud as I want, no problems. But, with the subwoofer turned back up, when I turn the volume up to the sound I want, the system, sometimes ti turns the breaker completely off as,, I have a breaker instead of a fuse, It is a 100 watt breaker. Other times the sound goes off , then comes back on about 3 seconds later. I also have an 8 gauge ground wire going to each amp. I switched the ground wire around. It did not help. I switched the hot wires around , and it did not help. Any ideals please. The system sounds great, with my JVC 13 band equalizer head unit and the alpine amp hits the single subwoofer just right. But , it irritates the hell out of me either shutting off or especially / kicking the breaker off . My alternator is also 110 amp alternator, and battery is less then 6 mons ol d
Hi my problem is bugging me..my set up is connected correctly which I've double checked. my bass seems to run smoothly for about 35mins then my bass will be halved. my amp will be hot. if i turn off my head unit for 10mins and turn it back on then i can play at full power for 10mins and same problem goes on and on...I'm so confused as of what to do!! thank you for your time!!
Hope someone can help me here, I have a 800 watt amp and sub connected, when i pump up the bass full with the engine off everthing is fine but if i do the same with engine on my sub cuts out til i turn it right down. Is my alternator on its way out? Think it's rated 100amps
I just uograded my system from two kicker 10s with a 300.1 kicker amp to two 12 kicker comp rts with a kicker 1200.1 amp. I have it set on the bass knob only like in the middle of the half turn and it played for like 30 minutes and blew the fuse. Never had this issue with old setup any advise on why it blew the old fuse. I swapped the fuse out from a 100a to a 250a. Plus i noticed the amp was hot... any advice
i’m no expert but i think i see your problem. Your Kicker RT’s are rated 1000 watts rms each. That’s paired to a Monoblock that emits 1200 watts to one channel, i’m not sure how you wired it but your AMP can’t take it. Sorry to say it, but remove one of the subs. A 1000 watt sub for a 1200 rms watt amp is near perfect. OR, sell that amp and get a 2 bridge amp that deals 2000 watts rms. 1000 per channel
I have a phoenix gold 10 inch in a sealed box hooked up to a alpime mrv m500 amp and a jensten car stereo in my camper trailer everythings hooked to 12 v battery but theirs wires that are hooked to the stereo to ground it instead of hooking it up directly to a battery like you'd do a car when I turn the volume to about 35-40 the amp starts dimming n then when the bass tries to hit it shuts it all off n comes back on by itself...battery's fully chaarged to i just don't wanna waste money buying a bunch of new stuff I don't need it if its a simple fix I was thinking maybe I need the ground directly to the battery instead of using the wire from the stereo but that would be complicated to
The issue is caused by the speakers wired in a configuration that the amp is not stable with. If your amp is not 1 ohm stable then dont wire the subs down to 1 ohm. This will cause it to kick off every time the bass hits. Also if you have mismatched subs and they are different ohms then that will cause the same thing. Unless you have a shit alternator or battery then your amp should never kick off due to voltage. EVER. Wire your subs correctly and you will have a solid sound.
My amp goes into protected mode when bass hits, i installed a capacitor thinking that was going to solve the issue. I noticed that the capacitor voltage went above 14.60. And that was when the amp shut down. Should i install a voltage stabilizer?
No. Make sure your speakers are wired to the correct Ohms that your amp is compatible with. If you are running them at 1 ohm and your amp is not 1 ohm stable then it will go in to protect when the bass hits.
when the truck is on it is 12.8 volts at the amp but when the bass hits it goes to 9 volts and sometimes 8 and it has been going on into protect mode is that why?
YOUR WORST NIGHTMARE your gonna damage system and car electrical . you need big electrical power to put big system. need to specified how many amplifier or watts in car.
I also think when you run your amp at 80% to max gain for long time of periods it will over heat run the amp gain 60%70 max double the power of amp to the sub it’s like revving your motor 2-4 rpm consistently REVVING IT TO 8-10 the motor blows NEED A v8 don’t import it 4 banger not going last unless modified but still ratio should be 2amp/1sub power everything needs to match
How could I determine how many amps my amp is pulling? And also how many amps does my stock alt have to spare? Answers to these question would really be apprciated.
+Just_trying_to_be_successful What kind of car do you have? Stock alternator's vary depending on the vehicle. Go check out the Q&A we just published today, might answer your questions. ;]
+Just_trying_to_be_successful Buy a cheap clamp meter. You can find them on Amazon for as low as $20. Clamp it around you positive wire running to your amp, you will see the amperage going to your amp.
Your car head unit has a remote wire that turns the amps on when the stereo is turned on when it's shut off it shuts the amp off find a new 12v accessory and use that as a remote instead of using the headunits 12v accessory
+Exhilarating Bass my battery is a group size 90 that is undercharged (took it to advanced auto and they said hook it up to a charger overnight, which I haven't) but its in good condition otherwise.
My bluetooth speaker has been shutting down like this recently at high volume. It started off distorting and crackling but now it just craps out. I’ve been making beats with it on FL Studio for 2 years so maybe I just wore it tf out lol
why does my amp fade in and out nothing is loose and the only thing I can think of is I don't have a thick enough power gauge I have 4 gauge on a 2,500w Phoenix gold competition amp pushing 2 12'' kicker comp
thank you so much i thought i blew a sub but it was my ground i started moving the cord around and then i heard the bass so i tightened my bolt and redid the ground
I'd like to know how to stick a 1/0 wire on a Amp I can barely fit 4 gage in my Amp it piss me off I know they have a after market part cus I have seen it but they seem to fit NEW Amps
+Joe Ramos No they are perfectly fine, if you don't have enough wire or enough space to run the wires, they come in handy, just make sure the distribution block can plug in 4 gauge or thicker wire.
Good video - I have a similar question. Slightly different. When my system was installed it work and sounded perfect. It's been 4 months since it was installed. I was playing it pretty loud and then all of a sudden the bass started dropping out and all sound started dropping in and and out but when I turned it down it would play all speakers. The next day it sounded fine the the next day it would start working inconsistent with the music playing intermittent. I watched the second amp run and I would see the power light dim and the sound started breaking up. I run a cerwin Vega i2500 pushing two 12's connected to a cerwin Vega 4 channel pushing infinity Kappas. I just moved from LA to Chicago and the problem started here in Chicago- in La I would drive at higher speeeds but in Chicago I'm always in traffic and not sure since I don't get up to speed often if my battery could not be getting recharged as frequently as so in LA
i have a brand new battery with a 600w amp on 4ohms 2 channel system and the only problem i have with my system is certain songs when the bass hits the amp goes in protection mode how do i fix these issues my voltage while the car is running is 12.9 my idles be bout 700 rpms
fullpeladas already checked it out it was because the sub wasn't getting enough i changed the amp to 1500 and to 2 ohms clean the ground better and works perfectly fine sounds better than before nothing to do with the alternator
