Why I'm Throwing Away $1000 in Miniature Paints 

This needs to be talked about more. I believe that directing people towards BetterHelp instead of a proper licensed therapist is incredibly dangerous. Betterhelp does not have a solid history or reputation.

This guy dose not research his sponsors at all. He's been Spon by temu as well.

Because to them it's just a paycheck. I can't hate the game because it seems more and more RU-vid alone isn't gonna help them make a living. It sucks, but you know what doesn't suck? This week's sponsor Raid Shadow Le-

@@gregorycafiero9688 I do hate the game. Plenty of people are making livings without shilling scams and bullshit.

Wondering how many of the people who bitch about sponsors, are actually Pateron supporters? Literally, put your money where your mouth is.

That TOTALLY excludes wires, connectors and different plumbing shit. Once you throw it out - you're on a timer and you WILL need what you've just thrown out =)

Day, after you threw it, you actually need it

@@FreelancerND every fvcking time !!

go vegan

@@sburbtube6766 I'm going to go out and eat _extra_ meat today, out of spite.

Indeed, I too found this informative, and it cleared up some common misconceptions I had about beef jerky.

Agreed about BetterHelp. I know creators take sponsorships due to the extra $ and making sure the lights can stay on but given how much has come out about BetterHelp, it might be worthwhile for creators to do the research they can about a sponsor before signing a contract. Kind of like when Jon had Established Titles as a sponsor and even used the phrase "You will be a lord/lady", which has since been proven to be factually incorrect.

It was not busted, he just pretends he doesn't know how to use them. You use vortex mixer and do not basecoat with them. They're actually high quality paints used for certain purposes.

I have been using my GW paints on terrain and once they are gone, I don't replace them

Pretty sure Beef Jerky got more free advertising than Better Help paid for. Terrible sponsor that I really wish several creators dropped.

@@PrzybyszzMatplanetyexactly scale 75 is my main I have Almost the entire range and really have no idea where the complaints come from. I’ve never found them hard to work with and am not a pro or master by any means. Wet pallet and golden airbrush medium ( for shooting it of course) or golden glaze medium for when you want it thin. Pro tip buy it from Spain and let them ship it to the states it’s a considerable discount than buying in the US. It’ll take about 2 weeks shipping but it’s about 30% cheaper.

I’m glad someone else noticed this

Ha ha. I love that he recorded the ending before actually swapping the paints out.

Oh thanks the paint gods that someone else noticed this. The confusion that seeing the fluro Proacryl still sitting there had been causing me is so real. I got stuck trying to work it out and couldn’t, came here for a sanity check!

Golden makes a bunch of great products. I also have some of their fluros. Very impressive!

He has the whole ak set and all contrast....so your paints will go the scale way

I propose a new Army Painter color. Beef Jerky. Made from Raw Umber Very Dark Neutral Shade PC414RU. It's a great shading pigment, a good substitute for black that dries quickly and flows into recesses. Consider it. Could be a hit with Jerky Lovers.

@@jeremiahembs5343 Imagine if paint pots came with a small scratch-n-sniff patch on the lid, so you know what flavour you're getting inside?

@@darkowl9Sounds great. Sign me up!

Wrong. Army painter listens and innovates. Their new lines are incredible. Army is here to stay.

Yeah I think it would be great to give these paints away to those who could really use it. I’d like them but I’m not that short on cash and I have a good amount of paint already.

I’d take them too

Definitely, they need a new home ! I work in youth work and something like this would be a godsend for painting demo sessions 😊 ( Well obviously I cant sadly volunteer to take any of the paints due customs, but hopefully some1 gets some paint ! )

Get a side job like doordash or uber eats and skip a day of painting or gaming and make 100-200 and buy the paints you need man

@@imightjustmakeit that’s not how it works when you live in a small town

GW actually has school programs. I dont know if university level is too high. But atleast for younger ones. Youll get like .... 10 stormaktstiden, 10 primaris, 6 brushes and a dozen paintbottles. For zero dollars. Ofc they want to reel people into the hobby. But still.

Jon loves tem-u money, he wont donate it. you have to pay him. hes american. money is all he loves.

​@balambgarden1349 dude calm down. If you don't like Ninjon's channel, don't watch it. Loser.

What an unfortunate and ignorant belief. You do realize that kind of negativity and bigotry only hurts you right? I am American. I am first and foremost a Christian, a father, a family man, and a business owner last. There are good people and bad people everywhere. America isn’t perfect but we are comprised of the entire world’s population. Hating America is hating the whole free world.

I have the full range and some of the paints I despise, any of the brighter blues and yellow for example. But their fuschia and any of their darker tones are amazing, and of course the metallics. They just have a pretty steep learning curve.

I think my experience with them is that they are fantastic layer paints for the way I use them, but they never worked for me as a base coat paint. I still use the leathers and the skin as highlight colours, but tried painting with them while camping on my wet pallet and it was a pretty hard experience that I didn't really enjoy. Still I love using them as a highlight paint, it seems to blend in pretty nicely. Kimeria has also been interesting, and there's certain colours I really like, but I think they don't suit me as a whole. Maybe I need to get better at mixing.

@@collinl5023don’t forget about their fantasy and games range. I have almost the entire range. I really don’t have the complaints others do about them but if always use my mixer every time before I put a drop of paint on the pallet and of course I use mixing balls in all my paints. Worth it buy buy a bag of SS balls. Shop around you can definitely find good deals if you look outside of hobby specific areas for them. Glass beads work well for thin paints like inks and contrast etc… even those still should have some agitation.

I think we just need divide paints for different uses. Divide them into paints for wargames and artistic painting. I love scale 75 for very matt finish and glazes purposes. I'll buy new warpaint fanatics for coverage and speed painting wargames miniatures.

Do you ever use a satin medium to help blend? I love the range too and mainly use water to achieve the blends which I get the effect I desire and complete with a satin spray coat.

Yeah, if someone tries to use a scalpel like a saw, who is to blame for the inevitable failure?

I agree - best I have used compared to a few other paint lines, too.

I have a few old p3's that i'm seriously stingy with

Necrotite Green is also a really good one from that range. Too bad PP is run by idiots.

Just a note that if P3 isn't being manufactured anymore, Vallejo Model Color Dark Sea Blue is a color match for P3 Coal Black.

​@@UselesswizardStill being made. But just as back in its early days when it was hard to get, PP has to reorder it in very large quantities so we're between an order right now. LGS just restocked its shelf just a week ago, but because of the aforementioned between orders thing Coal Black is sold out.

I just got decayed metal, and yeh it's just warplock bronze but easier to work with. So smooth.

I have yet to hear anything good about war colors that was not a paid add.

@chrisrains6470 I really like vince vinturella and his tutorials and he really likes them. He does have a different style than most, he likes glazes and filters. War colors more translucent formula seems to work for this style. I think I'll end up going with the new line from army painter for my next purchase now.

I love my S75 paints but I don't reach for them for brush painting for the reasons he mentioned in the video. I LOVE them for airbrushing though. I think they thin down beautifully and really enjoy them for that.

Are Scale 75 and the Fantasy and Games range the same as far as how they behave? I only have a handful of Fantasy and Games and I don't have any of the issues people are describing - they're like a thicker Pro Acryl for me only they last longer on the wet palette.

@@IrulianDark fantasy ranges are usually more saturated and gamecolor usually brighter and both and less matte, but probably works to advantage if using other paints like vallejo and gw for finish consistency. This is the norm for many ranges, gloss tends to stay wet longer and makes colours pop more to the eye. The matting agent can be different and make paint behave differently. Look up golden on their "super matte gel" and how it effects color saturation.

I think Vallejo has become the "Ol' Reliable" of miniature painting like Army Painter is for Hobby Supplies. I tend reach for their Effects Paints like Rust and the Terrain paste, and the Model Color paints I have from tend to get along with my few bottles of Scale 75. They're always there, not promising you the world but getting the job done each time you use them....assuming you can find most colors. I swear it's easier prospecting for gold than it is finding Xpress or the new Game Color ranges most days.

Ironically enough the best Kimera product is the flesh set from the last kickstarter. It's even better than the fairy flesh set.

I love scale 75 artist series paints.

The reason why a lot of gamers end up with tons of paints is it makes painting armies easier if you don't have to mix a color over and over again. (Also the greed!)

​@@jandrewmore Its why I bought purple, I could get the exact purple hue I wanted with mixing. The problem is that it was so finely tuned that I had to use all of it, otherwise there is a lot of wasted paint to get tot hat exact mixture. Now I only need to mix the royal purple I adore, for important miniatures, rather than Greg the Garlic Farmer with a purple handkerchief.

I couldn't find anything on it being discontinued, just hard to get. PP seems stuck in a years-long product bungling so it's not exactly surprising.

Yeah definitely not discontinued. I get them locally from my FLGS who just picked them up 8 months ago.

I never swapped the bottles ... but as each colour ran out I xhanged ot with other brands . Im down to about 25 bottles now.

Good stuff

If you absolutely must have a citadel color, just buy the two coats line. Almost identical colors in a normal size bottle at less expense. As far as the army Painter speed paint 2.0 fanatic and their washes, they are all flipping amazing!

I have quite a bit of two thin… I’m waiting on the fanatic for a bit as I have a huge line of paints now as it is. I’m always up to trying new though.

@aalkesandraa You don't base with S75. Period. They're for wet blending and delicate layering and that's the secret.

​@@PrzybyszzMatplanetyusing Scale75 Artist for basing is an amazing experience

@aalkesandraa use some sort of surfactant/flow improver (I have warcolours too, which is also gel medium and their surfactant makes them behave like normal paints more)

@aalkesandraa As the Neckbeards used to say, Thin Your Paints. Using a drop or two of water helps break up the thickness and treat them as the next step after the basecoat. Their real strength comes from blending as the other guy says. Basically don't treat them like Citadel or AK Interactive think of SC75 as wanna be Oils and artist grade paint. The only paints in 75 I wouldn't suggest thinning would be the metallics. Metallic paint gets....weird if you thin them out in my personal experience. SC75 really shine when you use them on things like Nighthaunts and models with large areas to paint like wings. Also no shame in using both Vallejo and Scale 75 in the same project, Eclipse Grey is great for shadows and darkening most colors while using Vallejo's Amaranth Red or Dark Vermillion as a basecoat with SC75's Reds tend to make them pop off just right. Hope that helps.

@aalkesandraa Also, add agitator balls to your S75 bottles and mix them well. Shaker or vortex mixer is great to have. The best way is to get a paint shaker that actually holds the paint bottle for you while it does the shaking.

I'd be careful though...the one near me insists on pricing them at $5-5.50 which is above MSRP (you can also get them online all over the place for $2.68 a bottle, etc.).

@@oskar6661 I'll never shop at Hobby Lobby because I don't support Homophobic Antiquities Thieves.

don't buy from hobby lobby, stolen antiquities dealers

I agree. I came to the comments to say so 😊

I don't think Jon is getting rid of them. He seems to just put them in another place harder to reach, and is thus going to use them far less often.

"I don't use or like these brands, so I'm going to give them to my viewers!" Dude, that just sounds weird. It's like a reverse endorsement or something. Donate them to a school or an art club or something, but not to the people who come here to learn more about wht they _should_ be using, and why.

@@HeadHunterSix It's because some of these things are not objectively bad paints and are, in fact, extremely good if they fit your style.

I would also like to see that.

You have all the info. Make a choose. Look at your models and think of the color scheme you want. Then buy army speed 2.0 or vellejo express in the colors you want for your army. If your are doing one offs or more intricate models in small quantities then consider some inks and oils in those same ranges.

I did this last year with the second wave. The standard paints are excellent and the metallics are good, not amazing but better than citadels. I personally prefer citadels washes but I like the pro acryl better than both. The fact that they have reference charts is also mega handy.

@@Chesterbigwigful@Chesterbigwigful I really like the Pro Acryil as well; I just wish they sold a complete set of them. I am sticking with the Citadel Contrasts until they run out. I have the speed paint from Army Painter, but I don't need to use it yet.

I use a vortex mixer too. I wonder if this is why i like them too.

@@matt6387 yeah I wouldn't be surprised if it was. Cuz without the mixer I see what he is talking about

@@adampeterson9171 i got them long after i got my mixer that must be why i am confused by it.

When I see comments like this, I immediately think this is a person that screwed themselves into having to use this product and having to learn how to make it work By purchasing more products. It seems like hubris is getting in the way of intelligence. They are more expensive, they require 2 to 3 additional purchases in the way of shakers, thinners and retardance, and don’t do anything correctly and are no better than other blends that can be mixed with water to work correctly. I think with experience people like you realize it’s not worth the extra hassle and expenditure to get a product to work when there are other products out there there just work.

@@chrisrains6470 they don’t need retardant at all.

Don’t forget the new two coats line. They were made by one of the best painters Citadel ever lost. They are an exact rip off of the citadel colors. They work better and cost less in a normal sized bottle.

Still would love to have Coal Black.

I use Morrow White religiously for White. And on the other hand, I can apply Khador Red in five out of the pot coats and still see bleedthrough

I see them on eBay all the time for sale. Not sure if the line is disappearing or not but there’s good deals out there.

One of the online stores I buy from still has them. Wonder if it's really old stock? I only have a few, they remind me of the old citadel paints that came in the same type of bottles with the white lids. I actually assumed they just took over that line when Citadel switched manufacturers.

@@robertashton5005 PP is still in business and still has the paints for sale on their website and I haven't heard they aren't making P3 anymore (I still play Warmachine so see PP news frequently)

Yup totally agree!

@PrzybyszzMatplanety Hey Przybyszu! What paints would you recommend for army painting (28-35mm scale). I love sc75 - have only a few colors and used them for wet blending and glayering. I want to buy more as I like them very much - metallics are my go to already. But I heard they are not best fit for basecoating. Is coverage better when you use them through the airbrush? How fantasy line differs from the scalecolor one?

@@ljari1 Hej! If you feel competent enough with an airbrush to basecoat (I certainly do not yet, only priming), they'll work better. You're supposed do do multiple thin coats of paint with airbrush anyway. Fantasy & Games coverage is slightly better than ordinary S75 because they're not purely gel based so they don't appear as goo out of the bottle. They have also more vibrant and interesting colours - I love Huldra Blue, Innsmouth Blue, Merm Green among others - and dry a little more satin compared to ultra matte S75 main line. However, everything from Scale 75 is more or less crappy in coverage department. Even their Instant Color line have certain paints that need 3 to 5 layers in order to achieve what Citadel Contrasts or Army Painter Speedpaints 2.0 do after one. This doesn't make them bad paints as this is for purpose, S75 products in general are aimed at more experienced painters who use more advanced techniques (smooth transitions and all that). Also for each S75 paint (main or F&G line) you need at least two steel agitators per bottle and hell of a muscle to properly shake them. For basecoating and general fast army painting I'll propose... Army Painter. Their new Fanatic line is absolutely fantastic for this as they cover so incredibly well - even bright colours like yellow. Now, Fanatic line does have some issues that almost no paid influencers mention. Mainly it's high desaturation of some colours (Fur Brown and Pure Red are actually hues of pink!), additionaly mixing wrong colours desaturates them even more to the point that you can have almost grey paint. I do not know why it is like that, but I think Juan Hidalgo is right suspecting they achieved extreme coverage by adding a lot of cheapest pigment - white. Second issue is mitigated by their flexible triads, first can be worked around by washing or inking surface to increase colour saturation. But if you just basecoat with them, there is no issue at all. Even with that Army Painter Fanatic are the best if we speak about coverage. I actually think basecoating with Fanatics and doing rest of the work with Scale 75 or Fantasy & Games is the way to go. We can talk about other brands that are worth of your attention, like Pro Acryl or AK Interactive (PA if you live in USA or Western Europe, AK if in Central or Eastern - for example Pro Acryl prices in Poland are twice the price of AK and they're the same level of top quality paints) but availability may be the issue. As for metallic paints I would recommend Vallejo Metal Colors (Metal Color, not Vallejo Liquid Metal), they're for airbrushes but you can easily work them with ordinary brush. They cover perfectly, flow like water and are the most metallic paints I've ever seen. Their only weakness is 14 hues of steel & silver, but only one gold and copper. :/ I think supplementing golds and coppers with S75 metallics may be good solution. I generally speak with some experience - I have full S75 F&G, S75 Instant Colors sets, entire S75 metallics sets (gold, steel and copper), AP Fanatic Mega Set, some Pro Acryls, few Vallejo Metal Colors and too much AK paints. If you have any further questions, I'll happily answer.

@@PrzybyszzMatplanety Wow, I didn't expect such a long and elaborate answer. Thank you! Currently, I have a collection of somewhere north of 200 paints-a mix of Citadel, VMC, old VGC, a few P3, and SC. When I do army painting, I tend to basecoat with Citadel Contrast paints and then work only on highlights/layers. So, I guess that would be a viable option for a combo of contrast and SC. What do you think? I wanted to minimize my collection and make space for SC paints :P. So I want to keep paints for basecoating and get rid of anything else. I have an issue with Citadel paints, as their consistency could be more consistent (pun intended). Some are thicker than others. It's also super frustrating to use them with an airbrush. (And I don't like the pots for their diameter; they take up too much space). And to be frank, the best thing about SC is its consistency and longer drying time. It makes wet blending, glazing, and layering much easier (and base coating much more difficult). Thanks so much for your answer :)

If you got to fight and fuck with stuff to make it work, what’s the point of that? That’s why the Army Painter’s previous paint range was shit, it was basically temperamental bad coverage paint that you had to fuck with to get it to work decent-it was trash.

My only complaint is with the lids. The little flib tab often breaks off the edge, the hinges have been known to fail, and with a few of them, the lid itself has cracked (requiring me to transfer the contents to a dropper bottle) But the paint itself is great.

I don't understand all on video because I'm not english fluent, but Vallejo range get old. (like citadel) new range are better, easier to work with (ak 3rd, ttc, contrast). Vallejo was top tier 10 years ago, but what they do during 10 years ? (Ak and other outsiders work hard)

Well, Vallejo released a new range of Game Color and Xpress Color not so long ago. Ordered a bunch of Xpress bottles and, well, they're quite good, I guess

What I interpreted was that his preferred paints do everything that Vallejo does, and Vallejo offers nothing unique and extra. So they aren’t bad, just don’t stand out enough to keep. I use Vallejo myself for most stuff.

@@blackenthyname9903 Yes only model color get old ( or old game color if you still have it) new range is cool ( even if ak is better for classical acrylics, but their "ak contrast" are bad)

@@azecece1 Vallejo has completely redone the Game Color line, and has announced a new version of the Model Color line. I've got the new game color and it's very nice, but the old game color was as well.

AP speedpaints are the only reason I have painted minis. It is talent in a bottle.

I bought the base set and I actually hate them 😂 really hard to use for no discernible benefits

golden so flat is very much like them but more consistent and way more pigmented. Term is "gouache" which is a hybrid paint thats acrylic based and act like acrylic paint, just dries super matte with same wetblend time.

@@flowerknight4879 that's too funny. I mix them with each other a ton, thin them with ease, etc. they are my go to paints, but maybe I got a good batch? 🤷

@@koibunny4655isn’t gouache the mutant love child of acrylic and water color paint ? I have some and experimented with them thinking they might be a godsend for wet blending but didn’t find the particularly suited for mini painting. Might be better used on canvas.

When I use them I love them, never had any of the issues Ninjon is describing - mine arrived well mixed and have stayed that way.

Only used the metallics so far and they are brill... But so are the classic Gamecraft ones. Seems good metallics are quite easy to make.

So I had the exact same problem when I first tried them. I think the mixing is really understated, you have to use agitators and use a vortex mixer. My first lot let me down because they'd been on the shelf so long theyd separated. I use them all the time and none are goopyor streaky

I haven't tried their base range, but I do quite like their Artist Color series, they need more thinning than most hobby paints since they're heavy body acrylics, but they are nice and matte, and cover fairly well.

In my experience, the scale 75 paints are awful for basecoating. But they are great for glazing.

So I do not like the scale 75 metallics. I don't know if it's something I am doing wrong, so in comparison to the Vallejo metal colors, you know they are brush ones, I've not had a good experience. They leave brush strokes they're really thick. And a lot of the colors end up looking just the same with like varying degrees. Any tips would be appreciated

lol it would be grey.

Make your own bro dirt cheap after the initial investment. Get a meat slicer, grinder, and a dehydrator and you can make all kinds of money saving delicious snacks that are healthy.

I mean, you were talking trash about a company that actually listens to its customers and improves. You can’t say that about any of the other paint line manufactures except for maybe two thin coats coming up.

Why?

@@jamparke a lot of shait going on there. Selling personal information, bad and unqualified therapists etc. etc.

He does not care who sponsors him. He does not even research the companies. That is up to us to figure out. He takes a look at who is offering the most money and sells a fake land dead no problem

I’ve slowly been replacing my citadel with Vallejo and speedpaints