Why Outlets and Light Switches Have These little Ears 

You cover the issues very well. There is also need to break the tabs "mikey ears" when use single outlet/ switch metal cover. I have to do it a lot of times. Many thanks for showing it is helpful for people that don't work in this field

Typical DIY homeowner here... I am sitting here chuckling at myself. Never knew most of what you showed us here. Thanks!

I literally applauded after this video was done. My mind was BLOWN AWAY. I've been doing it wrong for toooooooo many years. Thanks, kid!!

My mind is blown! Especially with the last fact! You’re a genius! I’ll have to look as this on my protruding outlet!

last tip washers was great thank you!

Thanks for getting to the point.

Great video & explanation! I bought a 20 year old house and 99% of the outlets were sunken and I did the painstaking way of fixing them by building up the dry wall instead of using stackable shims!!! Came out great but was a royal pain in the ass. Builders shouldn't be allowed to build homes this way!!!

I’m a 40 year homeowner and very experienced diyer… and I almost always learn something from your videos. Thanks!

I also found they got in the way when I had installed the receptacles before the drywall.

Brilliant. I am not an electrician I work at a DIY big box store (the blue one) and time and again I get asked about why outlets don't fit right. My mind was blown when I "discovered" boxes where you screw the outlet to the cover, not the box. Your video about the spacers definitely helped but also knowing that the ears can be removed for old work boxes - if I ever use that at work I can see customers with minds blown. Keep doing these explanations!

That would explain why my face plate is sitting a little weird 😂

Well done. May I add to your hole in the "ear"? It is not a good practice to remove the ears when the device requires lifts for flushing with drywall. As you mentioned, most likely the 1/16 gain is likely not enough. maintaining the ears, prevents the device from rocking side to side beneath the finish plate. Another tidbit: The holes are typically used for for #6 screws to affix device to non metallic surfaces. Continue the fine work you do.

Man that makes so much sense. Now I know why my old workbox outlets stick out. Looks like I have a project this weekend. lol. THanks.

Excellent explanation, concise and to the point. But the missing ground sorta “triggered” me, lol

Interesting! Im an electrician and ive only ever removed them for the RS covers, but it makes sense now!

I never break off those ears unless absolutely necessary. I don't need a razor blade on my outlet potentially cutting me and the wire insulation. But great info!

I bend back the ears to make up the extra depth for a sunken junction box. A small screw driver through the hole or pliers allow you to bend each ear back quite precisely and make contact with the front edge of the jbox.

Always learning something new when I watch any of your videos Scott. Keep em coming 👊

Hi Scott I cant remember the link you have for us to ask quetions on how to fix something and send pictures?

Video link at the end points to the wrong video, just FYI.

Dude. You're nailing these videos! Super useful content for most homeowners like me. Clear explanations without any fluff or wasted time. Keep up the good work!! And thanks!

The plaster tabs are also to be used when the box is set too far back and there is a distinct gap between the box and the switch outlet. . These spacers go on the screws to set the appliance even to the drywall while still maintaining a firm mounting between the appliance and the box.

I never knew. Thanks for the vid!

Holy crap. I learned something worthwhile. Thanks, dude.

I've got an older home. Handi boxes had not been invented yet and there was no drywall just plaster in some places. The switches and recpts were nailed to the 1x6" wall planks with nails through those ears. Modern houses don't do that but the holes seem to still exist.

I'm an electrician and it makes me smile that you do all this research, and spread good information. Thank you. One thing I would like to add is wrap your outlets, over the terminals in electrical tape if you use a metal box. Those metal or ID (industrial) covers can spring to one side when removing and bzzt.

Always wondered about the holes. Thanks for explaining it.

Great video. I had no idea. Why don't outlets come with manuals where all this is explained?!

It appears you have linked to the wrong video in your end card.

Good tip! I had to use so many old work boxes while adding outlets and light switches to my bedroom closets. Didn't even think to break the tabs off

I'm *slowly* ... stacking up these thicknesses? No, i make all my mistakes very quickly!

Regarding your suggestion about using the removed ‘eyes’ on the mounting screw as a spacer, and yes it is correct that they are typically too thin to have much effect except in those rare situations where you only need that 1/16”, I for years have been throwing them into my assorted nuts/bolts/screws/washers containers and find numerous uses for them when I’m doing a project and need something to space a gap, or desire a tiny washer.

It’s a guarantee, no matter how successful I’ve been, I’ll say “Well I’ll be damned” at least once while watching.

I never had problems leaving the ears on the outlet. It's best to leave them on if you use a regular box with the metal hold brackets. That's old school. The new boxes are easier to install. But even so the ears don't create a gap on the plate to wall if the box is tight to the wall I guess also because I use larger plates to cover bad plaster. Thanks this is good to know I can reuse outlets that the ears were removed only in my own jobs. I would never use used outlets for someone else. Thanks I knew why the ears but why the holes. 73

Wow, been doing things like this for 5 decades or so and still learn something new. I didn't know why the cut lines were there.

Brilliant!

For the metal boxes like the one shown in the video, you'll also need 8-32 (I think) nuts to secure the outlet since the bolts aren't contacting anything strong on the backside in that scenario.

I found another use I think may at least be another reason for the tabs with the holes. A long time ago receptacle boxes were metal and commonly nailed into the baseboard or a wooden surface. they had adjustable tabs so the box could be set to a specific depth. When outlets with dual screws for mounting the faceplate (those decretive square ones for example) came into existence the screws that mount the faceplate hit that adjustable tab making it impossible to tighten the faceplate to be flush with the wooden surface. So, if you want to put a decretive square outlet in a really old-style box start by pulling the mounting nails from the old box. Remove the screwed-on adjustable mounting tabs from the old box, mount the new outlet to the old box with the two mounting screws but then use those tabs with the holes in them to screw (or re-nail) the box and outlet combo back onto the baseboard or wooden surface. Problem solved!

Seriously, those are mounting holes. That took 4 seconds to type.

Something to note, if you are putting an outlet in an octagon box, you’ll actually have to break off the two screws holes too

Very interesting, I never considered stacking those little ears onto the screw to give extra distance from the wall or box. Thanks for sharing!

I was today years old when I learned this. 12 years after retiring from a 35-year career as an Electrician!

Thank you for explaining things so well. I watch many diy videos and yours are the most clear and precise I have found. Which makes them easy to follow. Thank you!

Wow, after reading the title I thought what could he possibly tell me about those little ears that I don’t already know? Holy cow this was really informative!! Thanks!

Very interesting. I pride myself on reading code and doing correct electrical, but never understood this. I knew about cutting the screws, the spacer stacking, but not the old work boxes…. Welp, there’s a whole hotel with some weird outlets behind a mirror because of this hahaha. Thank you.

At +3:30 a better example of when you have to remove those tabs is if you use a Handy Box (ie, a surface mount single-gang box). The receptacle or switch won't fit correctly inside a Handy Box (versus onto the cover plate for that 2-gang square box you show) unless you cut off those tabs.

I've made device spacers/shims just by circling insulated conductors around the tip of a needle-nose plier and cutting off the little loop. The insulation plus the conductor gives you a good thick 1/8" or so spacer, or even like 3/16" if it's made from a #12 conductor. Handy because you already have the wire right there. I retain the plaster ears as much as possible because they add stability to a good flush mount.

That's funny. I always thought I was anal for saving those ears (too cheap to buy washers) and that I was cheating for using them to raise the outlets. Now I find out that it's legit.

Omg..... I just replaced 15 outlets and switches and was wondering why half of them weren't flush.... thank you for this tip!!!

Fantastic presentation. I've had those questions for years. Thanks for the answers / info.

That is obvious, once you show it. Why have I missed that?

Great video! I’ve replaced TONS of switches and receptacles and I learned a lot from your video.

I’ve never personally had an issue with the ears on an old work box. Always had the wall plates sit flush on the wall. They also sell, as I’m sure you know, wall plates with a little deeper recess to make up for the added depth. Great video though.

Great video as always! Hey..a lot of people may not know this. Great work Scott

Now I am trying to remember if the outlets I have replaced in the past six months have had the ears removed or not. I know all my basement ones have had them removed being metal boxes with raised corner covers.

Always happy to learn!!!!! Unfortunately, I have forgotten loads of stuff throughout the years. Listen to an old woman… that old saying,” use it or lose it” is right. I only have a good working recall on things that I do frequently. The other stuff sort of hangs out in the “back” of my mind and some of it left… lol

They make some rubber shims designed to shim the outlets on the screws where they are needed also. Pretty easy to use.

Some outlets and switches now have solid mounting brackets eg it’s a rectangle instead the ears style. What’s the point of these and how do you make them sit flush in old work boxes?

Thanks! I actually learned something new today!

The reason for those ears is to provide a reason to make youtube videos.

The break-off ears were originally only designed for the Exposed Work Covers as they are properly described. I also believe those spacers with the holes in them when you break off the tabs were solely to gap between the front of the mounting screws of the receptacle and the actual exposed work cover.

Remember, when you break off those tabs, the metal on the outlet can be razor sharp! They can cut you and you may not even feel it.

I think the more important question is why don't those power outlets have switches? In Australia, switches are mandatory to prevent electrocution, to prevent fires and to prevent damage to electrical equipment. Australian power points, as we call them (or outlets, as you call them) are far simpler, because they all come as one complete piece that mounts to the outside of the wall. For decades, they've all had uniform dimensions, so any switch or power point/outlet can used to replace any other one, whether it's being used in a residential house or in a commercial use. 1:30 The face plate would sit the same whether or not the ear parts were attached, because they also have the centre parts above and below the screw holes. None of the examples seem to show any need for those additional parts to exist.

Wow. RU-vid ftw. I think I've learned more little things here than anywhere else. Ever.

As an electrician to this day when I rip off these ears or the yoke of the device I save them for another time I may need a small fender washer for a 6/32 or 8/32 screw. Works great for that application too. Save them. Jeff - Licensed Journeyman Electrician Sunny Central Florida

The worst is always the ancient brick outlet cutouts with generations of layers of various plaster and drywall, leaving the box waaay too deep and, usually, plaster/drywall wider than the box. Then you're forced to mess with stacking nuts or tubes and using longer than standard outlet screws to get it flush. PITA!

The ears on my outlets don't even touch the drywall. The switch just keeps going into the box. All out outlets move in and out (quite a bit) when plugging and unplugging something. House built in 1994

Holy crap, well shoot. Ive been swapping outlets for years in my current home and in my previous ones and i always used those ears to set the depth since most of the old outlets i replace dont have the outlet flush anymore (they as you said would be referred to as sunken). So ive just been bending them a little on each side until the outlet sits flush when i tighen down the screws. Had i known or thought of braking the ears off and using them as spacers id have done that a long time ago lol. But now i know at least. Time to take an hour or so this weekend and go over all the outlets ive replaced in my current home and fix them so the ears can be used as spacers and i can get a more secure stable outlet. Truth be told i need to redo all the romex in the house cause half the house has the original wiring from 1952 when the house was built (which means no grounds or even grounded junction boxes). And the other half of the house that was added on in the 80s might have grounds but its still pretty old and i would feel much better knowing everything is new and up to code. I also have power swings throughout the year that are terribly unacceptable but the power company just shrugs me off everytime i call. We are talking as low as 100v in the summer during the hotest parts of the day and as high as 136v during other parts of the year. Chalk it up the the joys of living in an older house in an older neighborhood i guess....??? Great video, thanks for the info!

Space it out by wrapping wire around a phillips screwdriver, if it's a flathead it won't slide off. After a few wraps take it off and put it around the screw of the sunk in outlet. If that's against code I'm still going to be doing it. Wtf, can you do? And don't tell me some bullshit like "taking out the box and replace it with a new one".

After using British & European switches & outlets I am appalled with the quality of US ones. Mind you they're only low voltage.

Hi Scott, older female here. I am too old, rather my knees are too old to do repairs anymore. Sure do wish you and RU-vid were around when I was. My life would have been so much easier. I actually liked doing them myself, esp considering how poor the work ethic is. Just had my LR painted. Found after they were done none of the wall plates were flush and loose. They, for some reason, pushed the interior in too far. My knees did not appreciate having to go back and redo them all.

If I lived near you, I would put an apple on your desk. That is after you removed all those electric tools and other things. An apple a day keeps the electrician away. Thanks to you, I'll sleep better tonight.

The 228 thumbs down (as of Jan 16th) are from viewers that were traumatised when you ripped off Mickey Mouse's ears.

No, they're for when you're too lazy to add a box. You can just screw the outlet/switch directly to the wall

🤗😁 I HAVE MADE THE MISTAKE ,SCOTT … it’s good to let others know it’s an easy fix👍😎💚💚💚

Great video Scott 👍

Thank you for that clarification,some of these applications I knew,but some I did not,but now I know.👍

I hate those ears.I just rip em off.if I've mounted my boxes right,it don't matter

This is 100% incorrect. They are for drywall screws to mount proply to the drywall and ground the outlet partially.

Hi Scott and thanks for your instructive, no fuss videos. In many of them, you refer to another one with "check out this video right here" while pointing your finger in the air. Where am I supposed to find this other one? I see nothing in the direction of your finger.

Never knew. Don't think it's an issue they'll bend out into the clearance of the cover I think once tightened

So, from your "10 things" video, if these are actually receptacles and not outlets, what IS an outlet?

So happy that we use round cups for installing electrics in this part of the world... Who in their right mind would want to use an oscilating tool to do holes for all the sockets and switches when you can use one size hole saw..........?

This was actually an all-around, very helpful video. Very well presented and in easy-to-understand terms. Well done.

Hmm, yeah. I didn't think of reusing the tabs as spacers. I'll have to grab a little container to start keeping them in...

I’ll bet most licensed electricians don’t even know this.

Wouldn’t it be great if they could design one for the 2000’s like European ones

Only consistent if whoever cut the hole knows what they are doing and dont over cut. Which in my years i have found the installers getting lazy and holes are over cut and the outlet sinks i

this is how my life has been.. extra stuff ,I didn’t know I didn’t need , that kept messing up life.

The real reason is it saves .0002 cents worth of metal for the company.

Manufacturers need to stop with the slotted screws already. Phillips or square drive please!!!

Great to know! I would have been nice for me if RU-vid existed in the 1960s..

You know if you apprenticed with a skilled electrician he would have been using these with out telling you why or when to use them. This is great info but i wish i could learn in the feild

So when you’re getting new work done, use old work box.

Great tips especially if one have OCD Thank you for sharing

As a maintenance guy, I hate when I work on an outlet and find that the installer cut the biggest hole in the drywall and my ears don't sit on the wall at all, so I may employ that sunken outlet trick

You can also bend the Mickey Mouse ears back to make the outlet stand away from the box when needed, as in the case of a recessed box.

Thank you much, good little tip that I did not know

Nuts. When I have used old work boxes in the past I cut a relief with my utility knife in the plaster. Too bad I didn't learn this sooner. I even knew about taking the ears off for some kinds of electrical boxes but I didn't think outside the box to figure out to take the tabs off for an old work box. Also good idea about using the tabs as spacers although I use the green plastic spacers for that usually. On how far beyond the stud to mount the box: If you know that 5/8 inch drywall is going to be used the box should be mounted half inch from the stud face. This is a little harder to do because you can't use the 3/8 inch spacer built in to the box. You can use a scrap of 1/2 drywall as a guide or just not be so obsessive and eyeball it.

Brilliantly useful video! Always wondered, never knew until today.