Now first this is just a thought/question I have very little experience in dog training but Surly a dog trained to bite the back would be most effective A dog trained to back bite keeps the target moving turning off balence and isn't in striking range of a weapon Fear of being bit is almost as bad as being bit
Show a video testing your dogs not “training” but testing them so we can see just how well the method works and show it in a video or on these podcasts.
“When the dog pulled, it was very effective” I found humor in that and felt terrible for you at the same time, Hans. That sounds like a pretty bad bite to take especially having him on you for that long. I’ve been bitten on four different occasions (not including accidental bites while playing tug or whatever) and each time it was on the back of my right calf. Thankfully 3 of them were from other people’s fear biting dogs and wasn’t something that lasted long. The worst was a 6-7 month old pup that I produced from a breeding 20 years ago. (I made that batch a little too spicy 😂) She clamped down on me good. The wound was just puncture wounds with bad bruising. The bruise turned almost black. Thankfully she wasn’t full grown. Getting bit definitely hurts! Doesn’t matter if he’s pushing or pulling, it hurts! Adding to my favorite Hans quotes: “Where should I live? Your head? That would be scary for you!” 🤣
My dog had 2 "live" bites as a youngster, one was a decoy must've guessed he was sleeve happy, leaning back to try to tease the dog with the sleeve his legs got too close and my dog got him on the thigh, then he used a pushing grip. Id guess at least partly because the guy had scratch pants on so he struggled for grip. Another time, again he was still under 12 months old, a workman (after being told not to) put his hand into his kennel to stroke him, this time he bit and pulled back hard and wasnt planning on giving that man his hand back. This was all with minimal training.
Naturally I've always seen dogs regardless of breed go for the hamstring area or lower leg. Only go for the arms when they're grabbed & the arms next to their face ect ... but what do I know
thank you for another amazing video. may i ask about titanium teeth that were popular about 5-10 years ago? i would never do that to my dog i am just wondering because that may increase the dogs bite skill? Much Respect
In the same way as it is unnatural for the dog to attack frontally it is unnatural for the BG to just stand there like a pumpkin and wait for the dog to bite him in the biceps or middle of the chest. The BG will 'fence' with is arms trying to protect and cover his center mass where arms act like a shied and sward and that in the return then gives the dog the opportunity to bite forearm or back of the triceps of the frontally standing man. Of course nowhere do I say that when there is no other place to bite, the dog should not be able to bite anywhere including frontal biceps. What I am saying this that sports like PSA DEMANDS from the dog such frontal arm bite on biceps bite - bar none other arm bite. In the fight in my training system I am all for natural performance of the dog and dog needs to be able to bite anywhere and then jock for better and more advantageous position which would/will enable him to win while being safe or safer. I am against teaching the dog to above all prefer biceps bite and stand on it hell or high water and potentially get there injured (stabbed and so on) and while getting injured to insist on staying in such inferiors and injurious place. Another point is that the attacking the center mass (middle of chest ) or close to the center ( Biceps) is not conducive to knock the BG off his balance. For that periphery bites (bites away from center mass) are more efficient which is what is taught by Judo or Jiu Jitsu, Aikido or any other martial arts. The last but not least comment is that dog can always go around the decoy to get more advantageous bite. Like in firefight combat it is not best way to frontally attack a machine gun nest, but to flank an enemy from the side instead. That is much less risky> Of course if the frontal attack is the only option then it may be performed, but that is desperate and less preferred solution.
I’m thinking about buying the 4 step series for protection dog … can any dog do it ? …. My current dog - 3 years old - I’m his favourite person . He loves me like no other but he is soft . Like me telling him bad dog is enough for him melt and legit get sad. Lol German shep x husky x wolf . Yes I know the wolf is what makes him nervous . He is standoffish to ppl - no aggression or hiding just not really interested.. but he’s afraid of random things like brooms - but not the broom stick alone ( then it’s just a stick) . He has some play drive but it has to be a special toy . He is intelligent and bitable. Of course I started with food which he’ll do anything for lol he does have high prey drive ( would like to eat little dogs, rabbits , etc. and will bark at my horses when they get to pushy with him or he views them as potentially threatening to ppl … and he likes to fight - like ALL IN. No questions asked .. however is subservient to my older male dog. I’ve heard this kind of dog could turn into a fear biter to excuse themselves from certain things .. but I don’t know how accurate that statement is … let me know what you think ..
Any dog is teachable with my method. Here is the link to the video series. www.alpinek9real.com/personal-protection-dog-training You can also contact me at AlpineK9@Yahoo.com 602-332-4404
When they ask me for a dog for those sports I have no problem teaching them to bite their sleeves before leaving, but my personal 80 day old puppy already has 4 scenarios of real aggression without equipment only by voice possor, it is a big difference to start teaching aiming to the man and not to the team, there is also a big difference in the dog's attitude even though he is only 10 weeks old. One of these days I will record it to show that at 2 months they already show real aggression and with the equipment we ruin his natural aggression.
