Take the guess work out of bending hard lines. Best price on Amazon at this posting: -RIDGID Precision Non-Ratcheting Pipe Flaring Tool, 37-degree SAE Flares amzn.to/3gpyKMr
This is the kind of "Braking News" I like to hear. John is so laid back and joking in his videos..., but when Nicole Johnson got behind the wheel of his Subi power Bug the man seemed down right stern and serious!
He was definitely none too happy with her when she go on the throttle hard. I can however understand where he was coming from as he had a little trouble earlier on controlling that beast on the test drive with her. You put in that much time and effort you don't want some knucklehead destroying it in the blink of an eye.
John you blessed us all when you started putting these awesome videos on you tube for our pleasure to watch. I always anxiously wait for your next video. By the way, is their another video soon on rear brake lines or are you going to let us imagine how you would do it? (My brain is not capable of that process). Love the brake line saddles. I asked my wife to order a coat hanger from you for me to hang my Cleveland Browns shirt on. She said I wasn’t worthy of it and handed me a plastic one. 😢
I love watching you building the corvair. I shared your channel with my brother. He builds really cool cars too. He put a jet engine in his last spring, and the chicks really dig him. He has some tools like you.
If you haven’t already thought about it, you should try to get some of your parts suppliers to sponsor you & get this in SEMA. It’s definitely a SEMA quality build!👍
They make stainless steel "zip ties" that will blend better with your project ! Though the black nylon ties are UV and strong, the hack factor of seeing them is too high. As for annealing stainless, others on here are saying you are doing it wrong but ... good job. "heating to above 1900°F and for 90 minutes per 25mm thickness followed by water or air quenching. The best corrosion resistance is achieved when the final annealing temperature is above 1900°F."
If you cool in water you probably aren't annealing and rather are hardening. Annealing involves a slow cool down period in air or sometimes in warm sand or an oven to slow the process further. Unless there's something special about the stainless used for those brake lines.
👍👍😎👍👍 ...... That's all there is to it ...... Thanks John for the beautifully concise and complete lesson. Really liked the tip of using the bender on the wire too.
Really John, you gotta make us feel bad about how we do brake lines😔. Okay, so I really like that bending tool but again, thanks for the great tips, even my vairs deserve lines that actually fit 🤣
I sandwich my tubing between two pieces of 3/4" plywood and roll the plywood over the tubing to make it die straight,l like your style and videos big thanks🤗😎🤗😎
The only issue with stainless brake lines is they are likely to fracture due to work hardening ( not as badly as copper though) If you use stainless lines you need to take this into account and avoid excess movement being concentrated in small areas. Vibrations from vehicle operation and flexing caused by brake application can result in failure even if the line never experiences harsh conditions or extreme high pressure. So when the brakes have been bled get a camera or a good friend to watch the movement of the lines when you stomp on the brakes repeatedly. If there is a lot of movement 1 millimetre or more before or after a bend and close to mounting points or other bends ( basically anything that doesn’t allow for the movement) the lines will eventually crack. You can design this problem out by simply allowing for the movement to not be concentrated in a small area.
Annealing!!! Dang it! Why have I never heard anyone use this process in the past? I spent so much money on one of those hydraulic flaring tools only to have it break the die on 3/16” line every single time. So I would end up buying prefabbed lengths and “making them work”. If I ever build another car, I will be using this process to flare. Thanks!
I am always impressed with your work and I would not dare question anything you do. That said, why use plastic zip ties instead of metal ties? Just curious.
I did many brake lines when I worked on fleets. Always the new copper / nickel alloy and usually used the old line for my template. At least you can make adjustments by hand with that stuff.
I must say, the zip ties - while an elegant solution for many a hot rodder/fabricator - seem beneath you/your work. I scrolled through the comments and see that you'll be cutting them off for paint. But once it's all painted, will you be fabricating a sexier, more sophisticated clamping system?
This is some incredible work. So when you're all done you'll disassemble and paint everything? For my radical 80hp car I just used 3/16 nicopp with the standard double flare. This is just the front, what are you doing for the rear? Is that proportioning valve part of a brake kit? Sorry, just trying to understand how you came up with the correct components.
Yes, after all the fab is done, then it comes apart for restoration. The rear was done a while ago. Wasn’t sure if I needed a P valve or not, put one in anyway.
I am looking forward to the completed project. I remember when people would use the Corvair 6 cylinder engines in VW Buses and Dune Buggies. This V8 in a Corvair will be amazing and reliable. Will there be any new videos on your 1973 Super Beetle?
you make stainless look easy but, iw as stoked to hear it's stainless, i live in the rust belt. also like that you can aneal it to work it like normal line EDIT: why not use stainless fittings always?
Stainless on stainless can gaul pretty easy and isn’t really necessary for fittings, as long as zinc plated steel is used. Plus SS fittings are three times the cost. My point was that I think aluminum fittings are too weak in the small -3 size that brakes use.
@@JohnReynolds661 I'll take that under advisement. On factree cars if I can break em loose I use anti size on the fitting threads and in-between the fitting and pipe but not the nipple very careful like to keep it from seizing back up and not get in the fluid. The salt is some nasty stuff. Youd almost need an all stainless car out here in the rust belt. Or lost of cleaning and maintenance
