I love how Dave quizzes his crew… keeps people on their toes and thinking… sometimes also another brain and pair of eyes can help you along.. I had a captain that did this… people would always sweat but i always enjoyed when he was on shift. I mean if you know your job you’re gold, but there’s also nothing wrong with getting help or having a refresher… I dig it!
If the complain of the customer is that the engine starts and after a few seconds dies, this is due to a leak in the suction section of the fuel system, from the tank to the transfer pump. When you push the priming pump after it dies what you do is make the fuel circulate again and remove the air from the lines. Installing an electrical transfer fuel pump is A SOLUTION, but not THE SOLUTION. Most likely only replacing the leaking hose or the transfer pump the problem will be solved. Altough it is a good choice always to install as much fuel filtration and water separation as possible, specially in some crappy quality fuel areas. Also it is very important to install an oil pressure fuel cut-off switch to the new electric fuel transfer pump relay control, in case of an accident or fire it needs to have something that automatically disconnects the pump and stops the fuel flow when the engine stops (this is where the oil pressure switch comes to place), rather than only relying on the igintion key switch power that maybe the driver can't shut off if an accident happens.
Quick check for rotten lines on top of tank put hand over filler neck give a shot with air hose you will hear fuel air escaping. My truck if parked uphill wouldn't restart after an hour.
Oof on the flange drilling. Also, make sure the supply pressure is turned way down. Duramax needs volume, not pressure. On a stock engine, 3 psi is about all that I've found to be needed. Higher than that and they intermittently set rail pressure codes for high pressure.
I have never owned a diesel there sure is alot of things that can get you. Lots of maintenance lots of watch outs. Dave makes it very entertaining for someone who has wrenched on gas engines but makes it understandable the way he describes it. Great boss. I have never had the pleasure of working for a boss who could actually do my job.
I like this. Ask the tech how he verified the problem, ask leading questions to verify the he knows the additional steps to check to ensure a quality install. And since you asked, he knows that YOU also know what the steps are and what is expected. You essentially told him what you expected without saying it. Smooth! No hack jobs here.
Dave, I absolutely love that you compliment your workers for their jobs well done. I'm positive that they all appreciate your kindness and are willing to put in the hard work, at least in part, because they know it will be noticed and fed back!
Gentlemen, Install of FASS looks good. I'd suggest testing fuel to check H2O content, if you have a test kit. For instance, mechanic Scotty Kilmer had a vehicle brought to him that was idling rough and sometimes died while driving. The owner had already done a tune up, and the problem continued. After he went through it, he found the gas content had 20% ethanol - not 10% like it should have. He drained that gas out, put in fresh gas, and a gas dryer additive. He suggested getting a test kit to check our cars if they're doing the same thing. Glad Tyson got this truck running. I just have a feeling there's an issue with the fuel. Dave, the info. on location of the new pump as close to the fuel source as possible, is great info. Years ago, I installed an electric pump on a fuel line, in the engine compartment on a Ford F250. I didn't know about that 'suctioning air' issue. I did get the truck to start, but it seemed not to have full power. I ended up having to install a new OEM pump, and had to take down the tank. Guess what? There were some traces of sand in the tank. (I bought the truck from a masonry company.) That's why the first original OEM pump went out. God bless you and your business. Great info.
Yes it will Crack the frame when it flexes, never, never, ever drill into the flanges a frame rail, you will never see any OEM factory holes on the flanges
Loving this! 1. Pump nearest fuel source. Less reliance on external air pressure (14 psi @ sea level) to push into a vacuum. 2. Really great and informative video! Thank you.
I came to the comments to see if anyone called them out for drilling the frame flange. I'm impressed! Seems like a lot of folks know you're not supposed to do that. I'll add onto the blast: If you have to mount something to the frame, not only should you not drill the flanges, but the hole and the bolt should be the same size, and it should be a grade 8 bolt with a stover nut. If you are using a 1/2" bolt, you drill a 1/2" hole, and NOT with a Uni-Bit! Source: third generation welder, worked at a truck equipment dealer in central Florida for a few years and I was the guy that stretched class 8 trucks and repaired broken frames...and yes, I've repaired a few frames that broke because someone drilled the flange. Aside from that, great video! Also, I can't believe they aren't putting lift pumps in diesels anymore!
When I saw it I was like no way! You are not drilling the flange! Something coming down the line they mentioned looks to me like could be a broken frame if it decides to cracked in that spot!
I know a few years ago when I put my fass system on my truck they had a frame mount that sandwiched the frame and needed no frame drilling what so ever. Also adding that any frame drilling on the flat between the flanges is supposed to be 1- 1.5" off the bend of the corners as well at a minimum. But in general only drill if necessary. If you can by a bracket to eliminate frame drilling do it.
@@joshrappl4878 Flange clamps are fine. NEVER drill the flange. EVER. If there is something that avoids drilling the frame properly, that's fine, too. Clamps, U bolts, whatever, that's ok. IF you HAVE to drill the frame, always same size hole as the bolt, and always grade 8 with a stover nut, even if you have to beat the bolt through the frame. IF the bolt can move in the frame, it will start a crack.
lol I like how you guys talked it out and then the tech got to his repair on camera presumably under his own guise. Maybe he was hesitant about being on film but it was nice see he got his camera and talking time. I thought it all was well
I can’t think of you guys enough unlike most of the people commenting here I actually own aC5500 motorhome and I’m installing this exact system on it today. There are very little if any descriptive videos for installing the Fass or Airdog onto the Kodiak or Topkick C4500 or C5500. So this is a big help. It’s amazing how many people had to comment on drilling a hole in the frame. It’s a gigantic frame. Other than thank you I really wish that there was more time spent on the fuel line fittings rather than all the easy stuff. For me, the most difficult part here is figuring out a way to separate the fuel line fittings and then hooking up the adapters that came with the kit and then connecting it to the system. The wiring is a piece of cake and so is mounting it without drilling a hole in the frame. Peace n Love ❤️
Dave in the thumbnail is me explaining to a deli customer I have no freaking clue if these rotisserie chickens were raised on 100% grain but they're $9.99.
Hi dave I have a 2003 5.9 Cummins I am the second owner it has 278,000 Kms I change the oil every 5000 also the fuel filter as well I run Stanadyne fuel treatment every tank I have been a commercial driver up here in Vancouver British Columbia for 41 years now and I definitely believe in regular maintenance great video 😊
I went with the Fass on a recommendation over AirDog and it works great but it sure is noisy, like a rattling sound, is that normal? I read they were somewhat noisy but...
Good on your Staff that have been long time employees. Shows that they like the workplace and are respected by there employer. I have just retired after 37 years with one employer.
I’m a retired tractor/trailer owner/operator and had one of these on my truck and it gave me all kinds of headaches. Also have known several other o/o who ended up taking it off their truck due to failures
I have a Kodiak C 4500 that I put the fassfuel system on, it was the same issue, but you can leave the factory fuel pump there. You just have to take the ball and check valve out so that allows you to have a secondary water filter which is always a good idea. You can also add up to 3 fuel filter heaters depending on the climate that you live in. You can also put a cooling unit on there if you live in the desert. i’ve noticed that this truck has two tanks. Make sure you replace the fuel filter filter between the first tank and the second tank. It’s just in line in front of the rear tank. It’s about $120 to buy a new one. Most people don’t know it’s there that becomes blocked and you can’t even blow through it since that motor works sign of vacuum pump the C3 pump. You extend the life of that pump and it takes all the air out of the fuel which will extend the life of your fuel injectors for a long, long time. I get an extra 2 miles per gallon, because of putting the system on would recommend it to anyone that has a diesel truck with a C3 or C4 pump, especially Fords and Dodge rams .
My jaw dropped when I saw Tyson drilling the top of that frame. Flexing frame will crack right there Drill the side of the frame and weld/fabricate a mount for the system
My old duramax had prime loss issues, ended up swapping the fuel filter housing and never had an issue again. I did like the idea of FASS but never got around to it before upgrading the pickup.
Ive had my fass fuel on my F350 for years and have never had any issues with it. It has well over 100k miles on the system and its ran flawless for years.
That cp3 is designed to suck fuel, getting air isn’t going to hurt it,unless it’s run dry and it wasn’t. They use large 1/2” feed lines so there isn’t a lot of restriction to fuel flow. 6:45 your not supposed to drill onto the top or bottom of the frame rail . The middle of the c channel only, you drilled at the highest stress point on the frame right behind the cab. It wouldn’t have been very hard to do it right.
I personally like airdog fuel pumps over the fass pumps. Im also not a big fan of drilling holes in the frame, there are usually more than enough holes in it from the factory that you could make a custom bracket that uses factory holes that will hold the pump, that’s what I did with mine. Its super easy
A FASS or AirDog system is a good deal for a Duramax, however I find most of the time a crank, no start on them is caused by a leaking fuel filter housing primer or the filter head heater electrical pass-though. in my experience, replacing the filter housing solves the problem. A FASS is more of a preventative measure against CP3 or CP4 pump failure than a loss of fuel prime issue.
He is one hell of a boss a boss or owner should always compliment his people when they do good jobs you don't find that these days and companies management thinks the it with s*** and the people working under them's nothing I just wanted to tell you that makes me feel good to see someone complimental employees
I will never install another Fass again in my life, it's cost me thousands of dollars and months of troubleshooting just to make it work. Fass on a LB7 Duramax in the Canadian winter, absolute nightmare.
What about an air leak in the system? As air is less viscous, it is easier to draw in rather than fuel leak out sometimes. This truck ran fine for a long time, so something has changed to cause the issue.
Do a quick google search drilling on the upper and or lower part of the frame is a big no go. I have I little experience with working with frames on trucks I was just a helper manly or just a welder the the shop that’s pretty much a lot of what they do. That being said I don’t think there will be an issue but I’m not a structural engineer either.
Cummins isl has a fuel pump on the side of the motor behind the computer. When it starts to fail it easier to put a fass on it inline and push thru the factory pump than trying to remove and replace the factory pump.
Behind the computer is the fuel cooler, behind the cooler is the transfer pump the new ones are great, build date after 08.23, there not that bad to change, cheaper than a fast system to install
Good system as long as you use caterpillar filters. RU-vid has a great video on how caterpillar filters are made. There’s nothing better in the micron rating world.
Constructive Criticism: Your camera man should have more wide angle lense. I would love to see more wide scene, when the camera comes closer to people and also helps to see engine bays in full, etc.
Dam Dave u should have been a movie 🤩star not a mechanic you always all up in the videos!!! Let the techs alone to handle there job !! Wat a ball breaker
What about the EGR filter systems that Fass is selling? Still waiting on a Cummins solution from them, but they have some for Ford and GM diesels already.
@mrmotofy well, the filter I'm looking at should filter the exhaust gasses before they hit the stock EGR cooler. For the Ford and GM truck models, I think they're advertising an 80% reduction in all the oil / particulate matter downstream of the filter. They just don't have one out for the cummins yet.
My last comment. I worked, repaired and did countless PM’s on OTR and BOX trucks. You should make it a habit to Date all of your filters and be sure to change to he O-rings that come e we it’s the filters. They can be Flat style O ring and even D style O-rings There is a an O-ring lube that saves time and prevents twisting, keeps rings in place etc, it works great.
I love my fass 165 but I’d recommend a sump with a single center bolt design it’ll help the pump last a lot longer due to it doesn’t have to pull the fuel up from the bottom of the tank but either way good job . 👏
@@tomcroghan3776 the single center bolt is just one single bolt in the middle and a o ring seal it won’t leak unlike the multiple bolts around the outside of the sump . Beans diesel makes a great sump kit
Never a good idea to have a hole in the bottom of the tank. It's actually illegal for a commercial vehicle to have a sump. Really should be a draw straw.
@@mrmotofy we’ve been using them for 20 years on all our competition trucks and beans diesel sump has never leaked on me not once in over I’d say 100 competition diesels
The flange drilling on a semi frame is because a semi frame is heat treated. 5500 chevy top kick is basically a big pickup truck. I'm sure if the frame was heat treated there would be a big yellow sticker on the frame telling them not to do that.
The only problem I’ve had with my Fass system on my 2005 2500HD. Is in temps near or below zero the fuel will gel in the pump and filters even with treated fuel. I’ve had to start to add kerosene (20%ish) to a tank of fuel. When the temps drop.
The FASS can use the multiple heater ports, 2 probes and 2 coolant. There's also a filter disk...that's enough heat to keep you going in extremes. I have a vid on coolant hoses, and can give you info on the whole gelling topic
Ive seen the plunger fail on those units. When you use the pump over and over, the "prime" pump starts to pull air into the system. I've cut into every line, checked PSI, checked for air, changed major components, and nothing. Replaced the primer pump, wallah.
Damn kinda said a fair well for that frame after the hole drilled in the top flange. May have been better just mounted to the bottom of the van body. Hopefully will be okay and always good watchin 👍
