@Jan Schlossar it's for an off-road vehicle, it doesn't have to be spot-on perfect. these wheels aren't going to be balanced or anything like that. when guys started making their own bead-lock rims no one was worried about the wheels being perfect or balancing the tires. the aren't going to be spinning as fast as highway tires are.
I had a dirt track frame manufacturer in Augusta, GA put a 2” band in a set of factory wheels for an 81 Ford Courier that I restored back in the late 80’s. I put a set of chrome rings and the factory hub caps on the wheels and mounted a set of 60 series tires all around. Had a lot of people ask me how I was able to mount wide tires on that little truck with the “factory” wheels. Surprisingly the truck rode really good.
Where I come from this method of modifications would be referred to as "Southern Ingenuity". Great work. Ingenious homemade tools too! Congrats on a job well done!
I can honestly say that I've never thought about re-fabbing rims. That's kinda ingenious the way you did that. Very nice, I'm super interested to see what you're up to with this build.
Станок для распила диска - да херня. Раз и два - получите, распишитесь. Чувак, ты с какой планеты? Все необходимое для облегчения труда и все додуманное, нечего там уже придумывать. Молодец, красавчик, мастер на все руки 👍👍👍💪💪💪
Donn I love your functionality approach. Dont need no stinking pen and paper. Spot weld spot weld. Dont like it hammer it off grind..Spot weld GOOD ENOUGH !!
I'm always intrigued at the way you fab and engineer your way past every obstacle you come upon. Your problem solving skills are fantastic. Another amazing video, thanks!
Sorry to burst the bubble, but this has been done for decades and jig he built would be suited to some car mechanics place at 80¨s-90's to widen the rims for local teens for road use. Usually its done in non commercial setting with car jacked up from one side, attach the rim, clean up the area with a rag for most of the crap, angle grind while car is on 1-2 gear depending on ratio and rim diameter for desired speed since rim diameter=distance per revolution, engine rpm devided by gear ratio times two i believe since all power is going to one side of the differential. Cut the rim, round the flat bar or sheet of steel, weld it in place while car is lifted up on front and buddy can adjust the speed from other side via differential, clean the worst of the welds a bit if you can bothered, trow into balancing machine. If its way unbalanced just grind little from one side to counter balance, paint it, check the balance if bothered, mount the tire and see what ever it hold the air. If not trow more paint at it, unless there is hole so big you can see to other side, witch point go check your eye sight at doctor, grind the paint off from that spot, trow little "Kemppi glue" at the problem, if there is any paint left it will burn out, smooth it out and repeat the balancing and painting portion. Weld is there to hold it on one peace and paint fills any air holes there might be. His method would work for actual car rims in road use, while described teen method would be more suited to UTV, since its does not matter much if rim snaps in half in crawling speeds, but on the highway its different matter. Way he did it was over engineered, but then again who knows, maybe he will be making more of these widened rims so it makes sense to have proper jig for mass production.
You should keep this machine, and if you manage to stumble upon one of those balancing tire machines that's being thrown away or parted (or at the scrap), get the axle shaft with the cones, so you can make a universal variant of this. Maybe not now, but maybe later you'll wanna make another machine with wider tires. Just a thought.
It isn't going to be used at high speed, it's for an off road UTV. you were going to use it on the road I would say don't use a banded wheel but offroad at low speeds it'll be good.
@@cmotdibbler4454 - I was thinking, Maybe I wouldn't want to try those at 150 kph, but they should suffice for an ORV. The penalty for failure is to walk home and fix it; that seems OK.
@@MAGAMAN - The intended use is for a utility off-road tow vehicle. I don't think he intends to do any racing. (He has other vehicles, designed and intended for that purpose.) I agree, it is _possible_ to have a fatal accident at 10 kph, but it isn't likely, even with a total, instantaneous wheel failure.
@@MAGAMAN i got news for you. Every company I have ever seen that widens steel wheels does this the same way. Also these would be plenty strong for on road purposes. If companies do this sort of work they more than likely state that they are for offroad use only just like all the weld on bead lock companies do. It protects them from lawsuits. However I can absolutely verify they they are strong enough for road use. At best the wheel will bend. You show me any aftermarket steel wheel and I'll show you an unbalanced steel wheel. When I was a kid I worked for a tire shop. Damn near all the aftermarket steel wheels were out of balance to some degree.
Pretty good once again. I thought you would have made an auto feed out of a windshield wiper motor?? My friend widened his rims and painted them with under body paint... never leaked air! Keep it coming bloke. Love the content as always. Cheers from Sydney Australia 🇦🇺🦘🐨🐨🦘🇦🇺
You could use a wiper motor abd an arduino to build an auto feed. Also modify the jig with a arm to keep the grinder stationary to clean the welds. Your skills are the bombs. Brilliant thinking. Can't imagine if you had better fabrication tools. Thanks for the great video....
Simple power feed would be to have a band around the rim going down to a small diameter rod chucked in a drill. Variable speed, and requires almost no precision to implement.
Or just bolt the rim into car, lift one corner up and let engine run on idle. For precision use strap to tie steering wheel in place. That is how its been done for decades.
I have my doubts that that would work well. For that size welder and wire, he’s looking at about 3-8” of weld per minute. Assuming it’s a 14” rim, that’s around 5-14 minutes of weld per rim. I don’t know that the engine could turn the wheel that slow. I’ve been wrong plenty of times before though.
@@whodat90 I believe you are correct, I've never seen a freewheeling car tire at idle turn that slow. the brake would have to be on all the time to get the wheel speed correct and there could still be surges related to the brake pads and/or the drum or rotor. Using an electric motor geared down with either a rubber wheel in contact with the rim or the shaft with a pulley and a belt would be the most effective and consistent way to turn the wheel for this kind of welding. the pros use a foot pedal to control motor speed as they weld.
Приятно то оно приятно смотреть как ты это всё делаешь, вот только вопрос прочитал ли ты всю нагрузку на твой шедевр, а то может получится так что твоя вставоска из листа не выдержит и повернётся колесо в самый неподходящий момент и дай Бог чтоб все было хорошо и никто непостродал, а так в целом ы молодец, руки из нужного места растут и голова на месте, Успехов, удачи тебе, супер.
At the speeds that UTV will travel, if you run into trouble with the widened rims holding air, you could smooth those welds down a bit and put tubes in the tires with no issues at all. That was an ingenious bit of work; well done. 👍
Be pretty slow welding up 4 rims with the tig wouldn’t it? I ended welding up my rim with the stick welder even though I have a tig because I couldn’t be bothered cleaning it up probably
For me (someone who knows Nothing about welding or DIY) - this has certainly been a wonderful and educational how-to build. The Jig's were amazing - kept me wondering 'what is he doing' - until the light came on with the finished jigs especially the welding jig. In my opinion - A great tool for any eager welding student! Well Done!!!!
keep up the great work your doing .. some day you need to build a sand blasting cabinet .. i am going to change mine , so i can shove long pipe threw it and clean a section at a time , then close the flaps when doing other things ,, need to hook a shop vac so i can see what i am doing gets a bit dusty . also need to ground the unit i have been sapped it will create a charge while sand blasting ,, keep up the great videos ,,
From a welder and car builder with over 40 experience I want to tell you what a great job you did with your fixture and prep work! The only thing that I noticed in the welding is the amount of wire stick out was a bit much. Obviously I don’t know your settings however I like to weld hot and one way of doing that is less stick out from the contact tip. Otherwise GREAT JOB!
Trust me, I was hoping for this kind of wheel processing on the project even before the video came out. I remembered that Darek (made in Poland) made a rotating welding table and that such a tool would help you a lot. Well done and greetings from Serbia.💪😊
But why? Can't wider wheels be sourced at a reasonable price? Seems like a lot of work to save a little money. I do not mean to take away from your fab skills, they are exceptional. I truly enjoyed watching you build the tracked amphibious vehicle and look forward to watching you build this one.
Wider wheels in that bolt pattern and diameter don't really exist, if he made an adapter he could use UTV wheels but they are about $120 each plus shipping it is pretty rare for them to be available second hand.
I had a similar problem putting atv tires on a lawnmower but I just bought atv rims that fit the tire and adapted the stud pattern. I love that you went the extra mile to make use of what you had laying around. Briliant solution!
Nice job, I've done something similar to this before and one thing that really helped was a fresh grind on the lug nut to make better electrical connection because the ground on m.i.g. is more important than any other type of welding since the machine is jump pumping out same wire speed constantly unlike stick and so on. 👍
@@Кудайберген-о4т ,на этом станке часть станины с направляющими должна сниматься.Я б и горелку сварочную в резцедержку зажал и сварил.И роликом обод отцентровал.
Creativity--"A+"-- Functionality--"A+"-- Results--"A+"-- That means it's a Winner. Straight up superb outcome from the scrap pile. Again another example of thinking out of the box Donn !!
Very nicely done. Maybe try running the torch closer to the work. I don't know about your welder but mine runs smoother if you keep the wire stickout short.
Back in the day the way we would widen rims was to get another set of old rims the same diameter, Cut the edge off the good rim at the edge and use the wide section off the donor rim. Weld the two together while on the front hub of the car to rotate the wheel. No spacer needed and only one weld to concentrate on.
Not that I don't love DIY stuff. But those rims your making with 4 bolt golf cart/atv pattern are about 30$ each lol already size your making! for 120$ roughly you could buy brand new set already correct size, compared to the $120 steel/$xxx expendables and god only knows $xxx power consumed to make those lolz! dion't get me wrong I love the videos! These came out top notch I may add! just saying there comes point why even go through trouble in my view.
Small point, why did you cut the axle off the cv joint? You only needed to hold the axle and hit the joint and it pops off the axle. The spring clip is only to stop the axle walking off when driving. It is designed to collapse as the center of the joint is bumped over it.
