I had the same issue with my Subaru. Being from WI, that axle was seized in the hub. I don't have all the expert tools, but I got it out using a chunk of brass and smacking it for about half hour with a sledge hammer. No air hammer was touching it.
@@derekcamp9764 Right What's the point of the video if you just skip ahead, he didn't even show putting the impact on the bolt which Definitely means he's misleading.
In my experience ford uses some really good hardware. Seem to come apart way easier than GM. They can be rusted to all hell and the bolt will come out with clean threads most of the time.
If in doubt use the M18 fuel 1 inch D handle impact wrench. Be sure to use the smaller 3/8 stubby for installing the new CV shaft to be sure it’s not over tightened
I live in the uk and used to work on landrovers (old knackered ones, not shiny nice ones). That nut was practically new compared to some of the stuff I’ve seen. You know you’re in trouble when the steel has delaminated and isn’t even nut / bolt shaped anymore. Now that’s a bad day at the office……
Bought an old accord for the daughter needed half shafts. Drivers side left hand threads and frozen. A 4-foot cheater bar wouldn't budge it. I poured brake fluid on the threads and two hours later it came loose easy. Tried it because it was what I had.
Rust doesn't scare me at all anymore: I put some diamond wheels on my Dremel wound up to 30k RPM and carefully cut off stubborn axle bolts. It's quicker than anything else.
A few weeks ago I had a camper that had heated the bearing so much it welded the outer inside race if the taper bearing to the stub axle. Had to chisel through the race to split it and get it off the strut.
I had a 95 accord and it had press on rotor. Hit it with the penetrating oil and put it on a vice where the rotor could fall through. Raised the hammer and that hub was so scared of getting hit that it just dropped out. XD
You should try my 03 golf the head breaks off if you go too fast with impact driver😂 gotta keep it slow and keep moving back and forth to break away the rust weld
That was put on by a caring mech... The threads are perfect, which means the nut was greased with some thick thick grease and the bolt section aswell... Likely bearing grease... The outsides rusted to shit, but threads remained perfect and unseized... Obv it wasnt loctite as no colour can be seen...
Formula has been changed in the last few years. Doesn't work as well as it used to. Making the switch to Free All was the best choice we ever made at work.
This kind of steel is superior, i had something similar in my 300c, Just put socket and knock it few times with Hammer, 1 meter lever and it come loose without any problem.
PB Blaster is like fucking acid 🤣 I had a frozen rotor on my old car and used it. Lets just say there is now a big hole in the parking lot of my building.
I’m glad I got the second gen. They used some kind of nickel something in the bolts on everything. Even at 12 years old and living in the rust belt nothings given me a hard time rust wise. I do have a bit on my fender and hatch but nothing that painting over it for the past few years hasn’t kept at bay
nothing wrong with pb blaster or even wd 40 but ppl seem to neglect the torch to get em off, that made mine 100% easier to get off without anything stripping or breaking
What size impact you using or what would be a good cheap one to use? I'll working on a 2010 jeep patriot and mine is rusted on really good. Tried using a cheater bar and a breaker bar and won't budge. So my last resort it to buy an air impact because my electric one wouldn't turn it either. Any idea on the least ft. Lbs to get that would break it loose?
