Will this $900 Part fix my Trailer or is it a LEMON? 

If you start sending them an invoice for down time and your time to repair……they will have a lot more interest in fixing the problem asap. Has worked for us in the past for downed equipment. Doesn’t sound like they are to interested in fixing the problem yet. Good luck 👍

As a customer, you have gone above and beyond what should be expected of you. At this point the company owes you a new trailer, period. If they won't do that, then it's time to take it to court.

If I was the dealership that sold you this trailer I would be soo damn embarrassed that you were still having issues with it. What a joke, and kudos to you for having the patience in dealing with all this crap. I hope they can get it figured out soon.

After changing the abs module, the abs light will be on. You gotta drive above 6mph for it to calibrat and the light will go off if there isn't any other issues.

Check the trailer control valve on the truck. I see it every week over here in the UK. Usually the truck puts out too much pressure down the brake line to the trailer and it causes this exact problem. I have seen over 10 bar pressure down the line on some

I think they need to give you a new trailer.

Bruce, have you tried pulling your trailer with a different truck to see if it still has the problem? If not the manufacture needs to send 1 of their people to you to figure out the issue and fix it and if they cant then they need to get you a new one, and THEY can have it delivered to you in Florida.

Need to check brake chambers on trailer to see if air is bleeding from emergency side to service side. Remove all service air lines from brake chambers. Put air to trailer and see if air is leaking from any of service ports on chambers. If so chamber is bad. If that checks ok try installing in-line quick release valve on blue service air line on tractor. This will get rid of any residual air left in lines after releasing brake. I would also check tractor protection valve on tractor for proper operation. I would also check to make sure emergency relay brake valve on trailer is supplying enough air to fully release park brake chambers. Another thing to check is to make sure brake chamber rods are correct length to get correct angle for brake applications. This corresponds to type of slack adjuster you use. Please let me know if this helped you. I like troubleshooting problems like this.

Drive it a short distance with light cord/abs cord unplugged and just see if it does it then if it don’t then could be a bad wheel speed sensor or one has metal stuck to it makeing it act up

I think that it is up to the trailer company to deal with the brake issue on the brakes as well as the tires flat spots need to be replaced with new ones. Isn’t there a rule that 3 attempts to fix it with no success it is deemed a lemon?

I would personally pull them tires off and look at the S cam make sure it is the right way and then check the brakes make sure they are hung right and the springs are right then lastly check the brake drum make sure it is round you can probably just look at the drum and look at the wear in it for irregularities like shiny spots or burnt spots should be even all the way around, I have seen S cams flipped over and they do exactly what that wheel is doing also make sure there is no slop in the S cam they may have messed the bushing up when they installed them

As others have mentioned, hook up and try a different truck on that trailer and see if the issue is still there. If it’s locking random ones out It seems like it’d be an abs issue.

Glad you that inspection battle over with!! On to New things like the trailer actually finally finding the problem or the ya who who sold it to you make good on his word and trades it for a new one!!

Bruce have you checked the service control valve? Sometimes if the ABS isn’t getting proper current to the center pin on the plug in it can cause problems. Just a few guesses.

Great video Bruce glad you made it through this inspection and passed. Looking forward to your next video stay safe Bruce.

I would take the wheels and drums off, video it for us to see. Im betting either the S CAMS are installed on the wrong side or in correct . could even be wrong brake shoes for trailer . most trailers use 4707 brake shoes with 1657 drums. Just my 2 cents.

Check into the lemon law regarding the trailer. You might have a case. Great video absolutely enjoyed it!

Great video! I live up in SC and the heat here has been miserable lately, last winter our heat stopped working and now we've realized our air also is barely working. Past 2 years has just been super fantastic, totally no problems with the world, nope.

Super glad you passed👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽Now about that trailer…somebody suggested trying a different tractor, sounds like good idea but if you still have problems then that trailer company needs to step up. You know they can’t stay in business if this is common in their trailers. They owe you so much for tires, down time, and plain old aggravation. They need to replace the trailer or send their factory people to correct yours once and for all. Don’t let them get you mad but hold their feet to the fire and force their hand. Good luck!

From my years of experience of driving truck. I had one trailer that would do the same thing yours is doing and to come find out after all the heartache I had a bad drum that was out of room. On one of your videos you said that front axle on the driver side had a hard spot when you tried to roll it I would start with that drum. And only other thing I could think of is maybe they have your brake pod yolk in the wrong setting on the slack adjusters which would mess with their throw

if you want a great pocket light, get the streamlite wedge. 300 lumen normal 1000 lumen high. ive used mine all day everyday for weeks on end and finnally had it need a charge

Check Crack pressure on relay valve or check the cam bashing on that one wheel that drags and also make sure your slack/ push rod length is right. The slack should be 90degrees to the push rod

Watched the video again. Do those air bags always air up that far out of alignment? If so it could be a weight thing on that set of tires. If the bags are not on their bases properly the weight distribution is way off. Light weight on those wheels could also cause this problem.

I can't wait for the Lincoln build videos and the burnout truck fixing videos I love this content love this channel would love to meet Bruce and his wife and family some day buy them lunch or dinner and hangout

Bruce we have “ lemon law “ in our state and if still under manufactures warranty they are liable to fix or replace and if not completed in a timely manner they will be responsible to rent or replace your equipment within 90 days of purchase.

That air ride valve on the front axle cant be mounted at an angle like that....the arm is supposed to be level and centered with the body of the valve in the horizontal position, i know its adjustable in that bracket but it looks like the bottom is clocked forward some

Should have just changed that modular . I mentioned that to you the last time . Had the same issues on mine

If you are having trouble with one wheel you may have a restriction in the air line. During installation debris can get in the hose and lodge in a bend restricting the flow of air not allowing full release of the brake .

I’ve been getting a box for a couple years now it’s awesome. Try good ranchers it’s awesome too.

I had an issue with my tractor brakes doing the same thing. A local shop guy told me to check the length of the brake rod and too long can cause the slack adjuster to over adjust

So do you have an abs warning light on the dashboard? There isn't very much to a trailer brake system and if there is no fault code it's not the abs module. However, the abs module needs to have identical length hoses to all brakes for it to work correctly. I'd be looking at the truck myself. Water in the plugs are from not running mudgaurds... Maybe back the slack adjusters off?

Love the videos! It’s great to see you back on RU-vid!!!

hope you fix it but starting to wonder if it needs axles replaced due to warping- truck axles, if warped or not in line, will over heat and that can cause bearing and brake problems

That green plane in the background of the shop. I remember building a small model of that with my grandad but I got rid of it because I am too old for it now and I was young at the time as I was putting parts together. Zero fails.

Great content Bruce! 👍 A little bit of extra difficulty working in them high temperatures 95° +.... Glad you passed the safety audit! 🥳 Very nice👍 I really hope you get the trailer brake figure it out as that is absolutely insane and should not happen with a brand new trailer! ✌️🇺🇸

Check the proportioning valve in between the frame rails on the tractor. Had a similar problem and that’s what it ended up being. I actually have one of those ABS valves sitting on my shelf as a result of it not being the problem. I would have given it to you lol

It seems to me you need a complete brake hose routing diagram for the trailer. Make sure every hose is routed correctly, including at the anti lock valve, (unless you’ve already done this). It seems something may be hosed wrong and/or is back feeding the trailer brakes. Also make sure there aren’t any errant strands of wire shorted across pins in that plug that had all the water in it.

Hey Bruce I don't know you've done it but first thing I would do with that trailer is unhooked the airline system the trailer roll forward and backwards and see if it locks up

You need to drill a tiny hole in the pigtail holder to allow the water to drain out of the female part of the connector at the rear of the plug where the wire comes out and go into the trailer. Keeps the water from gathering & shorting the pins inside the holder. Water gets in during the rain and just wind pressure pushing it in around the plug and make sure to put some dielectric grease on those pins.

Absolutely enjoy watching your content. I'm going to send you this amazing tripod that you might enjoy using, freeing up your hands for easier working.

Since you replaced all those parts check the brake pushrod travel on thr brake you have issues with and make sure that the correct size brake chamber and make sure you have the right size s cam and if the brake pads are assembled correctly with the correct return springs

Have you checked the trailer relay valve sounds like it applies full pressure when service brake is applied rather than perportinal as needed

Bruce, from watching your video it seems that your having only one wheel lock up. if it was a valve issue you would have more then one wheel locking up. I would look at the brake chamber on that wheel There is a sealing ring between the service side and the spring brake side, which keeps air from entering the other side of the chamber and applying the brake. good luck.

Only thing I could suggest is take the Pete to Peterbilt and get them to check that foot valve on the tractor? It could be malfunctioning? On the older Petes, it was under the brake pedal? Something else I have run across with Pete's, mash your brake pedal down with your hand and either blow out or sweep out from under the back of the brake pedal? If a stone or something gets under the back of the brake pedal, sometimes it wont let the brake pedal go all the way back when you let off of it? That will cause your brakes to drag sometimes? If its not the brake foot valve or a rock or something under the brake pedal, it just about has to be something in the ABS system? You may have already done it, but take your air hoses off- red first. push your parking brake button in and make sure you have a steady stream of air coming out the red hose? If so, put it back on and take your blue line off and push your trailer valve in? You shouldnt have any air coming out of blue line unless you mash the brake pedal or pull down the trailer valve on the steering wheel? If you do, the brakes are staying applied? If no air is coming out, get somebody to mash the brakes. When they mash the brakes, you should have a steady stream of air coming out of the blue hose? When they let off of the brakes, the air should stop? Might be a good idea to put the truck in gear and cut it off while you do that so the truck wont roll? Just make sure your air is built up before you check them? When both buttons are pushed in, you should have a steady flow of air coming out of the red line and no air coming out of the blue line until you mash the brakes? Then it should have a steady flow of air until you release the brakes? If thats not what you got, you might have a problem with a tractor valve?

Mainline Fleet Maintenance does ABS work, they have computers to find what’s wrong. They do all the work on my truck. Very good people to work with, they are based out of Lakeland.

Have you checked the quick release valve on the tractor side it will be where your air lines are plumed off the frame to the trailer

Bruce I had the same problem with an end dump the problem was the abs but not the module it was whomever installed it they had the sensors connected to the wrong wheels

Bruce if this part doesn't work you should contact the Florida secretary of State, Cord Byrd's office. The Secretary of State's office is always your best friend if you're dealing with a problem caused by a company not warranting their products.

After some thoughts and reviewing this video I can tell you that A the yellow female plug on the trailer's face plate has nothing to do with your ABS but is for reverse lights and fog taillights. It also has only 2 connected cables: not enough at all for an ABS connection which is 9 or 11 pins. B behind the face plate there is 1 thick cable strand, that might be your ABS connection. C if the truck- and trailer ABS are not connected via a cable the 2 ABS systems can not communicate and therefore neither knows what the other is doing. D you need ABS connectorplugs on truck and trailer to get it all working, an a cable, of course! E the manual slackadjusters and the ABS valve were money thrown out the window! F good luck gettin' it all to work out!! G wishing you a nice weekend! T🐻 from NL. 🤔

I totally agree about it being hot I changed a fuel pump on my mom's van for her an I got the tank dropped an washed off an drained the gas out of it an then went inside an fell a sleep lol it sucks everything out of you with this humidity. An hey if I'm getting fed up with that dang trailer I know you gotta be too lol hang in tho not much left before you tell them to take it back or sell it.

I would second what some others said on here, hook another tractor to it and see if it will do the same thing to rule out the Peterbilt. This is ridiculous that you have to troubleshoot your own trailer like this, I'd be backing it thru their showroom windows and demanding a new one.

Are the brake shoes compatible with the cams q or q plus sounds like it might have a miss match also are the s cams free to rotate there not sticky or mis aligned at all

Thanks Bruce for all the verity of content. I watch most of your videos while running on the treadmill. And to the fans reading this, hit the like/thumbs up button as soon as the video starts. I always do it first so not to forget at the end.

If it's only sliding on one break you might try to adjust the slack adjuster manually. I know you said they are self adjusting but we have them to and I constantly have to readjust them. They suck. And also you might see if your roller is still on the break. I've had them come off and cause it to drag. I know it's a brand new trailer but things like that happen all the time.

boy you are one busy man ,, jumpin around like a i legged man in a butt kickin contest ,,,it's nice to see you passed your safety audit ,,it's been my experience that most of those guys are very helpful if you don't fight with them

My dry van trailer did the same thing, my problem was the brake chamber not releasing right away after apply the brakes

Hope all works out for you with the trailer and also the wheel loader . What a messy situation that is , old owner . Demo company etc . The old owner only wants ur back bc you have got it going again and made a few + mods to enhance it

Hi Bruce, Ref Trailer.. It sounds like an ABS sensor or the Ring in the hub aint working properly. Having changed out the ABS controller and the wheels are still locking up.. I'd have a trailer specialist check the ABS ring on each hub and then check the sensor information coming back to the ABS Controller.... Hope this helps .

ABS has to be driven faster than 7 mph afro the faults are corrected to see all wheels same speed etc My money on the flat spotting is either bad johnny bar or bad brake chamber slowly bleedng over and "applying the brakes" Gunite slack adjsuter with the adjuste tab not set correctly

Hey Bruce measure the stroke from the pushrod on the brake chamber. Sound like you need to shorten it ... hope you this helps you...

@Bruce Wilson on exit 8 on I-81 Morristown/White Pine exit in TN there’s a good semi chrome/parts store called “The Chrome Shack”. I know the owner personally and they’re some really good people. Great videos 👍👍👍

If it is the exact same set of wheels every time and it has a spring brake there could be a small leak between the emergency and service side of the chamber. Yes it should evacuate through the QR valve but sometimes they don’t. It really sounds like it is compounding but it should be all wheels if it is, check the air lines for correct placement on the valves. Hook an air gauge to the service side of that chamber to make sure it is holding no air. Another thing to try is to put a QR glad hand on the service side of the trailer, evacuating air there is known as the missing second. It eliminates that slight drag from the trailer you feel when taking off from a stop light or sign. Just more of the many checks I would do if in your situation. Lay a straight edge across the brake bushing brackets on that axle. All line up and correct with the spider? 90 degrees to the axle? Correct bushings? Personally I would take it back, your downtime is getting to be more every day. If you were running OTR and depending on it for a living you would already be begging the bank for more time on payments.

Maybe your brakes are wound too tight. And then it’s locking them up. I think your problems upfront where the water was at in your plug.

I feel you about the heat bro don't you wish time lapse was real life movement 🤣🤣

Greetings from the O-H-I-O Porters.🇺🇸 Trailer: I’m sorry that the new part didn’t fix the problem. Contact them again & let them know that this needs fixed Once & For All! Maybe they can send a person or crew down to fix it! I’m still wondering if it’s an electrical issue. Maybe they can just send you a new trailer. 🚜 It’s so weird & cool to see those tractors apart! Not something I’ve ever done, but I’ve heard about it.🧐 Glad to hear the news about your FMCSA status! You had favor! 🤩 Is she liking the Lincoln more? Blessings! 🥰😎✌️

Hopefully they got that trl fixed for ya its like everone has abs issues they cant get the system perfect for some reason on hot day or humid rainy day you will see a lot of trks with that abs light on

i know spread trailers are a different breed i wonder if you need more air in the suspension to put more pressure on the ground then again i also know that if the road is not level and it lifts the trailer the tire with the less pressure that tire will lock up and also the curve of the trailer may also pick the front tires up off the ground just a little bit to have them lock up

do the have long through air canisters where there should be shorts? im not caught up but maybe this helps, if not i wish you the best of luck with geting this trailer working correct.

Trailer wheel speed sensors needed to see wheel movement for the new abs valve to not have any active fault code also when you were under the trailer it looked like the rear air bags were not completely unfolded, that can cause more weight on one axle and less on the other making the lighter wheel to lock up earlier, if u use the ride hight rod to fill the bags up untill they roll over the lower pan of the bag correctly

Your abs light can come on if something is going on with the 7 way plug, either at the trailer or under the truck, mine was doin that and I just cleaned the plugs and spread the prongs

When I saw that your trailer was locking up that was my first thought. Something with the air valve. It can also be adjusted on some trucks. There is a set screw to adjust the balance.

Look into a pressure valve that ties into the air suspension for the amount of brake pressure needed

Should be still under manufact warranty. ABS module should be good just check that sensor wire going to each axle usually that wire gets corroded.

man so glad i got outta the trucking business before all this new abs chinesium made stuff came out. first thing i would do is test the pigtail and the wiring on the rigs brake system see if there is a short and work my way down to the pigtail before spending all that money.

I would be looking at that wet connector and abs wiring and wheel sensors

Have you checked the abs sensors and air lines are connected to the correct terminals on the abs unit. They could have been connected wrong from the factory.

Try pulling the abs fuse in the truck and run it, at least that would tell you if it is the abs system that is causing your problems. Also abs is up to the drivers discretion, so you can bypass it and still be legal.

on your new trailer, i suspect there is a wire issue at the plug...also ck the abs sensors on each wheel..

Damn Bruce I'm sorry that you are going through SO much trouble with that expensive trailer. They SHOULD HAVE replaced the trailer..now you can't take it back but as long as they pay for the replacement parts that's good just make sure they reimburse you...DAMN 900.00 for 1 valve....that's a damn shame

Hi! Have you tried too stand still and brake max a couple times before you drive to have the brakes adjusted. Because even if you have auto adjust on your brakes some times you need too do a manual adjustment. I don't know how the ABS is enabled in US but here in Sweden/Europe we need too connect one more cable fore us too have working ABS on our trailers. And the water you have in your connection is not helping you, and if you lucky that's your ABS problems.

Pull the air line off that breake chamber and see if you have air with no one on the break its always the same wheel i had a spring break leak into the service chamber one time it would hold the break pads right against the hub and it would grab hard when you stepped on the breaks

You need to part ways with that trailer. I have been in trucking for 50 years, you have done way more than I would have.

I’ve seen this problem before, but never on a new trailer. Anytime I’ve seen it it has been lack of grease. Wouldn’t expect that on a new trailer tho.

May not be the issue but your abs sensor cables are not hooked up right the 2 black 90 degree plugs coming out of the ecu should both be in left bank not split between the two hopefully you see this and that's the problem

It’s really stressful to buy a new trailer and have those problems,it’s an warranty so they should fix the problem.Change with other new or give you a service to fix the problem and change all the bad parts or you should go in court with them.Thank you for the video and I’m sorry for your trailer problems.Take care of you!

Could be your brake return springs or your brake chamber exhaust ports

Bad brake chamber will do this,when brakes are dragging loosen service line on chamber see if it has air pressure ( don’t set trailer brakes when checking this only tracker parking brake

bruce thats why u check reviews on trailers b4 u buy at least u know what ur getting ur self into lession learned

Abs wheel sensor just swapped mine out had same thing happen to two of my trailers

At this point with that trailer, it definitely qualifies as being a yellow member of the citrus family….whether it’s repaired soon or not, I’d get rid of it and pick up a hydraulic tilt-deck Landoll trailer. MUCH better suited for what you’re doing….yes, it’s heavy and would require either a pony engine driving the hydraulics or a wet kit being installed on the Tratter Taxi(or better yet a dedicated day cab)…

Good job! Have a beer and live another day bud!!!

You dont have manuel slack adjuster they are automatic slack adjusters and when you doing any abs work when lights on you have to drive it for a few feet

Get the wiring checked on the truck on that abs plug to make sure it's compatible with the trailer.

i own all lode king trailers an they are just the best step deck built. i have all lowpro decks had issues with 1 trailer brakes where gone in 6 months warranty covered it. so excited to see once you got it figured out what it is. An or just request new trailer.

That’s OK I’m in Northern California and we are in the high 90’s right now with a drought.

I pull a brand new set of trains and the brakes do the same thing real touchy and only certain tires will lock up on it when I'm empty

You've got a faulty brake chamber diaphragm allowing emergency pressure to the service side on that front left. Only possibility at this point. Pull both hoses off the front left chamber and cap them then see of the others drag in the gravel. I'd hate to see you waste that fuel over $100 brake chamber.

I hope you get the trailer fixed!

So Manny people have told you to check the drum, sounds like it's out of round, this has been gone over by other with the same issue in the past, glad you respect your viewers enough to look at the comments on occasion.....

Maybe they left the brake chamber bolt to long. Thats the bolt that push the slack adjuster.if you cut it to short you probably loose breaks adjustment