Winning The War Of Mechanical Attrition 

Yup, the only problems that a corporation considers worth solving are the ones that hurt it's profits.

I recently sold a engine I rebuilt to a guy (a idiot), it was a complete running engine on a stand with starter, radiator the works. I ran it in on the stand because I didn't trust anyone to run the cam in properly. This "guy" gets back to me 6 months after he bought the engine and says it overheats. He pulled the entire engine apart to "fix" this so called overheating problem. He took the sump off and sent me pictures of a mettalic looking paste in the bottom of the sump with the caption "it doesn't look very pretty". He had discovered the remainder of the moly cam break in lubricant mixed with oil. He thought it was worn out I'll fitting pistons. You do the right thing and you still get accused of being a shister.

@@Hydrogenblonde THIS! This is why I don't sell anything. It isn't worth the hassle.

@@patrickwhitehead7584 you're dead right. This was a bloody good engine ready to go straight in a car. I'd spent a ton of time on it. This dick put salty water from his local supply in it and rusted up the cooling system and tried to say I sold him a engine full of rust and then made up a whole bunch of other fictional problems to say the engine was crap. He said there was not much coolant flow to the radiator so he tried it with no thermostat and wasn't any better. What the dumb ass didn't know is if you run this engine with no thermostat the coolant will just recirculate in the block and only a small amount will go to the radiator. Exactly the opposite of what this goof thought and actually producing the thing he complained about. I should have kept the engine for myself.

​@@Hydrogenblonde Few know how to tune flow for their specifics aka " NASCAR types"

@@charlesangell_bulmtl Exactly NASCAR guys run orifice or washer with smaller hole you have to have pressure difference. Even most of your home short track guys do the same.

Same here, well said!

On flat tappet cams but not roller cams

@@AndyGeesGarage Thats because cam gear driving dist gear it pushes

@@AndyGeesGarage Yes you do. Thrust plate or button both do the same

Granite?

Granted taking things for granted not granite lol

Let’s be honest here: that worked great with putting a mild cam in sixes, 2-bbl engines, or a luxo-barge 4-bbl big block with factory valve springs. I’ve done it on a 2-bbl 383 myself. It NEVER was a good idea with really big valve springs on radical lift or high lift-rate cams, and people did sometimes accidentally wipe cams that way back in the day. The difference today isn’t so much “you can’t get away with shortcuts anymore,” it is that people are wiping cams EVEN when doing everything correctly. Which says the problem is with the parts themselves.

@@austindoud273 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xP-Wd453wq4.html

During the 80's I was a Cadillac tech. We put thousands of cams in the HT4100 V8's. I probably did 100 of them, NEVER spent an extra minute to break in a cam. The cams did come with cam--lube, and EOS oil additive. Never had one come back on me, and never heard of the other guys having problems either.

I spun a rod bearing in a 77 2TC. It actually locked the engine. I pulled the engine and took everything to a machine shop. That crank was still good to go with standard bearings. I don't know what kind of steel was in that crank, but it was GOOD STEEL. The only odd thing about that engine was " hone to fit" cam bearings. It took 2 sets of bearings before the machine shop figured out why the cam would not go through all the bearings. Ran the crap out of that little Hemi for 5 years. All my friends called the Corolla it was in the "Silver Bullet"

same!

They're essential my man

Don't see how you rebuilt stuff, especially engines without them.

Better to ask for forgiveness instead of permission. 😏

@@silent1967 literally have never used one and have never hurt an engine i dont build 700+hp engines but built many 500-600hp big blocks and 500hp small block mopars with all after market parts but things have always been more reliable as far as parts up until now

OMG I hope you took them back. I ordered a new cam, received a used on with a flat lobe in the box for the new cam. The vendor made good on it though, I believe the supplier screwed him. Hope he got his money back as well.

I quit using any comp products some years back. Strictly Howards now. Made in USA.

Getting ready to find out on my buds 71 Charger

It's been that way for over 10 years....Overseas JUNK! Lets go BRANDON!

I also work in music and electronics for the studio world and the problem exist here as well..bad or wrong parts is epidemic and corporations stop supporting older equipment before they are even old enough to be out of service life. They want you to just toss it and buy new..Expensive units too that fail in a few years or so.

Check out Gear Box Videos.hes in fl.tell ya anything u need to know..also sells improvement parts on his site.a very good guy and very trustworthy.

@@robinarrington5498 Both him and automatic transmissions (hiram) are worth the watch. For what it's worth Gearboxvideo is run by Paul Cangialosi who came up with the Jaguar transmissions used for racing back in the 90's, he does know his shit. He has a few vids on Hurst and how to rebuild and adjust them. Edit: thought i would post the vid about the Jaguars from Paul's RU-vid channel: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-mT3NscNlmPg.html Fun stuff.

No doubt. Even the 1.2 ratio arms help.

why

@@Videoswithsoarin why what?

@@Videoswithsoarin cuz…

what late model CARs had a 360 in 1995? I can't think of anything. I can see trucks/vans, but I can't think of any cars.

@@evanc6110 Late model dirt cars aren't based on a manufacturer. They are fully jig built, all sheet metal bodied race cars.

@@elmerfudpucker3204 Thank you for informing me, I do not know much about circle track cars. Now I am really curious what car he had set up.

Been there, done that.

@@terrypetty9822 A funny thing about metal and countries of origin... I just bought an OTC ball joint press and it is now made in the USA. The one I've been using for the past ten years was OTC made in China. Why would it go back the other way? Perhaps quality control, maybe China's over acting lock downs. If I ran a big business China would be axed.

yes good point to make to clarify it actually acts as a sotra roller that way..kinda brilliant!! . if you think about it this would reduce wear by allowing the cam lifters to spin with the movement of the lobe. i think also paying attention to cleaning the rod contact points.. i remember noticing my sunbeam alpine engine push rods moving in circles as i was checking valve lash.

Another reason cam button on non roller Chevy sb bb not necessary.

Thats why you check the face on EVERY lifter , if its not convex , you are going to wipe a lobe ,and it doesn't matter what brand or where you got them either

He said that like 5 times in the video

😂😂😂

That works, just can't gob it on things. It can possibly restrict oil orfices, until the oil in the engine gets hot enough to melt it. In a pinch, I have used Vaseline with success on main and rod bearings, but I have always used break in lube for the cam, I will stop assembly until I gat it, for those.

Good point, as the side is flat.

I remember reading that all of the Big Three manufacturers had big electric motors to hook any given engine up to, to simulate the engine at high load, to see how the metal and parts would fare. I also imagine that if they had clear valve covers and a clear intake cover (in place of the intake and carburetor assembly), that would give quite a load of insight into how the metal could distort or warp under high load, or even under normal operating condition. I thought that was interesting.

Cheap brake hones are great for this. They will clean up any ridge or buildup at the top of the bore too.

I was hoping Tony would go over cleaning the bores.

Again with the Cadillacs. Every HT4100 engine I tore down had all the ring gaps lined up. Didn't seem to matter, but of course I always spaced them out again. On a modern, precisely machined engine IMO the rings will walk all over the place.

I assume it was the motorcraft clones from amazon/ebay? I say those and read the reviews which were what i expected for a "new" $75 carb.

You got the racing version. Only Runs at wide open throttle and has less parts so it weighs less.

Not luck. You had good parts back then! Who ever heard of a cam or lifters going flat before 15?years ago

@@devillockj not entirely true, cams going flat had been a pretty common thing even 30+ years ago. Alot of the time they would go bad from people not doing the break in or having too much valve spring pressure upon initial run in. Also around the very late 80s and early 90s a good majority of motor oils had the zinc removed and there was a massive amount of late 70s early 80s cars with the factory cams going flat like crazy and people found out the zinc was needed for those older engines but by the early 90s most manufacturers had switched to roller cams by that point and due to the strict epa emissions laws there are no "street legal oils" sold with zinc anymore, the only way they can sell zinc oil is to legally classify it as "racing oil" or "for classic vehicle use only". And alot of people still believe that diesel oil has enough zinc for a flat tappet engine which is absolutely not true anymore, around 2008ish when the DPF systems were being introduced into the diesel word they removed almost all the zinc from diesel oils to protect the DPF filters, some diesel oils do contain small amounts of zinc but definitely not enough to keep a flat tappet cam alive and some diesel oils have no zinc at all. My point is that even though there are alot of bad parts put there today, not everything from the past was better. The biggest issue i have personally seen these days with cam breakins gone wrong is from people using the wrong oil.

The old AC Delco lifter from the 60's and 70's had Stellite faces....Bulletproof material....Best of the best! I paid $20/lifter for a LS-6 restoration once to install OEM hardware...Last time they were listed in a GM catalogue the "585" edge orifice lifters retailed for $31 each....Whats a trashed motor from a failed cam worth when its "numbers matching" and has $3000 of parts/machine work in it (these are early 90's pricing)

@@briang4470 the petroleum quality institute of America tested ck4 shell rotella t4 and phos was 1034 and zinc was 1130! phos/zinc in 1967 was 1100-1200! sum like chevron have lower levels.

@@jakemichael8586 do you know when they did that test? If that is in the new rotella that you can buy now I would be extremely surprised, because all on road diesel engines made after 2008 come from the factory with an egr valve and a DPF system which can be damaged by certain metals and other materials such as zinc and sulfur which has been almost completely eliminated from on road diesel fuel which has caused a whole bunch of fuel injector and pump failures. And I figured by now all the common off the shelf diesel oil would have almost no zinc content just like most gasoline engine oils have practically no zinc or phosphorus. With these old classic rides I like to use valvoline VR1 or use some of the joe gibs or "driven" racing oils. In a pinch you could use non detergent conventional oil and run a bottle of zinc additive which I myself and some other people I know have done so in the past with great success.