Complete setup instructions on how to set up your wireless bike computer for 1st time use. SunDing Wireless Bike Computer: amzn.to/34YSewg (affliate link)
Top tip for setting your wheel circumference accurately: 1. Sit on your bike with the front wheel-valve at its lowest point. 2. Mark the ground with a piece of chalk. 3. With the tyres already at your desired pressure, slowly move forward WITH YOUR BODY-WEIGHT ON THE BIKE until the valve has completed one revolution (valve back at the lowest point) 4. Mark the ground with a piece of chalk. 5. Measure the distance between both chalk-marks down to the millimetre. 6. Enter THAT as your 4-digit code. Adding body-weight to the cycle, having your tyre-pressure set before hand, and measuring carefully will give you a reading that is FAR more accurate than the chart (which is simply a guide) and actually make your budget computer perform BETTER than some of the expensive Cateye style ones! Why they don't include this tip in the instructions, is beyond me. It's also worth adding that if you intend to use this on a hub-driven ebike, fit the sensor to the NON driven wheel, otherwise the closeness to the electric-hub can cause interference and block signals.
I can see that a pain in the backside very cool that it's wireless just one more step going forward I know you guys got to be cold up there people were laughing at me cuz I was cold in the forties dude if you want to see my scooter Instagram Andy Proctor 88 later dude
Kachi’s Kid thanks for the video, is clear and to the point. As far as the Backlight option, the manual that came with mine states that the backlight only works if you choose the 24hr mode for the clock setup. I set mine to 12hr mode, so no backlight for me. This bike computer is kind of a piece of junk, but when you realize it costs less than your last trip through the drive through, it’s kind of impressive.
I had to change the battery, I wanted to set the odometer to continue from where I left off. I can't get over 10,000 miles. It did before I replaced the battery. I've lost a decimal point.
Thanks Ed, yeah I wasn't about to film this but the videos I saw on the subject were in another language or not that easy to understand. I wanted it to be as clear as possible for anyone who needed it.
These bike computers are actually good for the price. The difficulty is to check that they measure the distance correctly or near correctly. To do that you need to cycle a circuit of which you know fairly accurately the exact length. For instance if it is 10k then you enter your wheel circumference (CIR) and ride the 10k. If your bike computer indicates 10k give or take 200 or 300 meters that is not bad. Remember when you ride your bike you rarely go in a straight line. Everytime you veer to avoid a puddle or a pothole that adds to the distance you cover. Also these computers are made in their millions God knows where and they are not perfect. If your computer indicates 9k or 11k then, if you choose to do so, you need to tweak the computer by changing the value of the wheel circumference that will give you a number closer to distance you know to be correct. It may not be the true CIR of you wheel, because the computer is not perfect, but it has to be a CIR that will bring you as close to 10k, or 10 miles if you prefer, as possible. One way of doing it, there may be other ways, is by trusting the computer that it registers every turn of the wheel. For instance if you cover 10k but the bike computer shows 11k you divide 11k, which is 11,000,000 millimeters (mm), by the wheel CIR you fed into the computer. So say that your wheel CIR is 2168 mm, you divide 11k by 2168 which gives you 5073 wheel rotations. Next you work out the wheel CIR which will get you as close to the 10k as possible which in this case would be 1971 mm as 5073 rotations x 1971 mm = 10 km. But even after that you may have to tweak it again up or down until you are satisfied with the result. But remember that it may never be perfect.
So this is what I got from going through the menu on this bicycle computer for the back light. The only setting that the back light will work in is the 24 hour clock setting. After 1800hr (6:00p) in the evening the back light will light up when you press any of the two buttons for 4 sec. so I’m essence, the computer has a rough idea as to when it is dark out to enable the back light. I guess this is good for the sake saving battery life. I hope this helps.
@@HXLproductions Sorry, I wasn't having a problem with my backlight. Yours won't come on at all? I guess I would reset the battery but there isn't much more you can do to it.
Thank you for sharing brother 🙏🏻 Do you know if this has a limit to the tyre size? I'm making a dog treadmill and want to use this odometer but the tyre size will be quite big as the track is about 480cm long.
What's up fam ! WoW !!! Technology is crazy cool & it where it's At 😃 . Not to take anything from the vid fam ! Due you have a gy6 link for the header pipe gasket upgrade, blown that worthless o-ring that I can't keep a seal & been keeping tork on the head bolts for the break-In & can't believe it's all together & flawless working on a digital gauge cluster with the Tach , temp , choke monitor & still waiting on sending unit's . The temp is connected by a ring on the spark plug witch didn't come in the kit & will work on ( hope ) since the Snow & cold 🌬❄😆( Winter project) & best of all, how to upgrade [ Pennies on the dollar] & will Gmail you with pics & links when done . Scoot on 😎Salute
@@kachiskid the o-ring's are weak & couldn't get one to work for me either ! Thanks brother for helping & Have a Happy & safe thanksgiving, to U & the Family. Blessings big dawg 😎 P.s my snowblower is fixed too LOL.
@@just4kicks950 Happy Thanksgiving to you and yours also. Good job of the snowblower, hopefully we won't need them for a long while. Currently I am rocking a solid thick copper o-ring, but your right about the cheap ones they burn away within a day. Either way throw some blue loctite on the nuts. I have rattled away 2 so far.
@@kachiskid got a solution for the exhaust bolts ! Take the long bolts & due away, get 2 nuts on each stud & use 2 wrenches after tightening hold bottom & tighten on just the top bolt & it will lock in place & keep it from backing out + blue Loctite ,like you said & yeah hopefully won't need a snowblower LOL Salute
@@kachiskid Got a guy wanting to trade he has a 2019 Sunnis Matrix 3i ! See what you think ?? & mine is a 2019 same year. The Sunnis has 700 miles. IDK just got mine straightened out LOL.
That's a nifty little product! And the main purpose is to remind the rider of maintenance only? What happens to all the data it gathers on rides, does it store and can you tabulate it, or it's just momentary information?
To me the maintenance warning is a small part of the product and some editions of this speedo don't even have that option. Yes the data is stored until the battery is removed. For your odometer you need to input the number after replacing the battery.
hi, there is still a bit of confusion. we are selecting the tire size in the bike computer but after that if we attach the sensors close to the axle of the bike the RPM used for calculation of the bike speed would be much higher than what the reading might be when it is place at the edge of the rim. but so far everyone is attaching the sensors close to axle and not at a standard radius from the axle center. please clarify
@@waatao9856No problem. For me, the range of the wifi couldn't reach the tire. I was getting it to read my speed when I held it only 10 inches away...10.5 inches and nothing.
@@frankiej6329 yeah, I know. It is a hit or miss thing. People get them to work, but mine couldn't be 1 foot away without reading... total frustration steeped in after day 2 and I chucked it.
