I was wondering how to make the light illuminate like the factory switches, that’s great! I wired mine to only illuminate when I push and activate the light bar, so it stays dark until then. It works great, but I wish I would’ve done mine like this. Maybe I’ll rewire them all when my wife leaves town or something haha!!! Great video sir!
One of the best videos I have seen so far in youtube, great work and 1 question... can multiple switches be crimped to one fuse tap or is one fuse tap limited to one switch
Braxen: I bought KC lights led spot beams with Rago brackets. The KC lights came with the wiring...it seemed straight forward, i.e., plug and play. I hooked the yellow (positive) and the black (ground) to the battery. I ran the wires through the fire wall. I did not use the factory switch that came with the KC LED’s; instead, I bought a switch that fits the slots for the Tacoma. I stripped the wires followed the direction on the video about the wiring and also used two 10 amp fuses/tap Into the tail lights. I believe I wired the switch correctly. I wired the the red wire closest to the black wire to the fuse tap. Everything went as planned the truck started right up and and the spots worked beautifully. However when I drove back home that is when the issue first started: 1) backed up the truck to load wood and listened to the radio with just the ignition on; 2)When I started the truck I noticed it struggled to start; 3) When I unload the wood at the my Aunt’s house turn the truck off; when I finished, the truck completely died; 4) I jumped the truck and it started; drive the Tacoma around in hope it would charge the battery; I went home and the turned off the truck and the battery died again; 5) the KC light wiring diagram states non-relay wires; 6) also, the Tacoma is a ‘14... it still had the org involved battery since purchase, i.e. about 4 years old; 7) I purchased a new battery last night...I disconnected the LED lights for now and disconnected the fuse tap. Do you have any ideas what may be causing battery drainage, please advise. Sorry for typos using in phone!
Hmm it’s kinda hard to say without seeing it, but maybe double check your wiring with the switch. With mine I did Green(+) to the battery, Black(-) to the truck ground on the side of the battery, then with the reds, you need to be sure you wire the right red to the relay. I tested this by touching wires together before soldering them. Basically I took the red wire coming from the harness and touched it to each red wire of the button, with the button in the (on) position. On my button, both LEDs illuminate when the pods are turned on, but only one when the button is off and just the dash lights are on. So when it’s just dash lights, the lower LED lights up on the button, but when I push it and turn the pods on, both the upper and lower LED light up on the button. If it’s draining your battery, it means that something is constantly drawing power from your battery. So it’s just a matter of finding what wire it is that’s drawing that power. Hope that helps!
“I wired the red wire closest to the black wire to the fuse tap.” Not sure if this is your problem, but it definitely is incorrect. Here is how to wire those switches: If you have the green disconnect harness with--green, red/white, red/white, black coloring--here is the correct way to wire them. Green is 12V+ input into the switch. Red/white next to it, is 12V+ power out when the switch is pressed in. The top light should light too. The next red/white close to black is form headlight 12V+ to light up the writing on the switch at night when the head lights are on. Last the black is 12V ground. Thus, the switch bottom light (writing) is lighted when the headlights are on regardless if the switch is pressed on or off. When the switch is pressed on, the new load (perhaps an auxiliary light) is powered and upper light comes on indicating power to the load and that switch has been pressed. I hope this helps.
Tacoma 08 (problem with switch lit up all the time)Wiring the switch to a auxbeam harness and light bar Here's what I did to wire the switch to make the light bar work and my switch not to be lit up all the time. I did exactly what Braxen was saying on youtube, My light bar was working but my switch stayed lit up on the dash all the time. I didn't want to drain my battery. So after checking reviews online and try to figure what was going on. I clued in, the green wire on the switch is the source. So I hook up the green from the switch to the red on the harness instead of having the green on the yellow of the harness and the red 1 on the red of the harness. Voila! it work. So here's how I did it. green switch to red harness black switch to black harness red 1 switch to yellow harness red 2 switch to extra piece or red wire with a fuse tap hook up on the taillight slot in the fuse panel. By the way I didn't have the same switch as Braxen but it was the same color wire. Here's the link for the switch I got on amazon. www.amazon.com/CH4x4-Push-Switch-Toyota-Tacoma/dp/B01H5UDLLC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=CH4x4+Push+Switch+for+Toyota+Tacoma+-+Bumper+Light+Bar+Symbol+-+Amber+Led&qid=1568496955&sr=8-1
It’s the same. One of the switches I wired in this video is for my ditch lights. I just wired all the ditch lights into the same wiring harness and button.
Loved your video. I'm looking for guidance with wiring the heated mirror pads to a Tacoma push switch like you have done here. What I've watched and read so far indicate that a relay isn't required (switch is 3 amp, heating pads together are 2.2 amp) as the draw is low. In other videos I've seen them tie all the red together and go through the add a fuse. What I'm confused about is where does the green wire connect to from the push switch? The package says the inline fuse attaches to the green, does it get bundled into all of the other red to go to the add a fuse. seems like a lot of action for one connector. Be great to hear your thoughts. Thanks
Great video, I tried the same thing and now none of my buttons light up at all. They all work properly, but no longer illuminate. Checked all the fuses. Any suggestions?
Hey man. I just installed a hidden light bar on my tacoma. If you're looking for amber switches a company called cali raised has them in stock for 10 bucks
I've got a question. How do you remove the panel that you showed removed on the left side of the lower dash panel? Got a video on how you do it? Great information! Thanks!
Thanks Braxen for this video, you just inspired me to save money and do it by my self already, if I may ask, can I connect 5 switches or more to the same fuse to light up the switches with the dash lights? If yes, should I put bigger fuse size or just 10 amp will be enough for all switches? Would it be fine to connect all the lights cables together then fuse them or I have to do it separately? Sorry if its long question 😬Thanks again 🙏🏼
Hey Braxton love the channel and vids man. Any chance u could share the link for those quick connectors that u use to allow for easy removal? I didn’t see them in the description- thanks man for all u do.
It goes to the wiring harness for the switch. So 3 of the 4 wires go to the switch we are replacing with the push button, the 4th goes to the add a fuse.
The way u wired the switch to the tail light fuse would also apply to the 3rd gen as well, right? You are the only person I have seen wire it this way and that's how I want to do mine.
Should be the same, yes. I wired it to the tail light fuse so that the light on the button came on with the marker lights and dash lights, so if you’re wanting the same, just make sure it’s wired to one of those fuses and you should be good.
Brian, I just installed that in my 05, my son's truck. The top of the button stays on constantly. The bottom part lights up like it should with interior lights. Does yours?
I watch your video with your buddy on installing heated seats. I've wire tapped to the fuse box. Sanded and grounded the ground wire to the chasse under the console and the heated seats won't work. Not sure if I have to hook up the yellow wire. Was thinking of splicing into shifter LED. Checked the wiring with multimeter from fuse tap to ground. It was 11.8. The switch light doesnt come on so not sure...Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks.
Love your videos! So helpful! Thanks man! Hey quick question. Your add a circuit link to amazon isn’t working. Could you send a new link to one you would use? I have a 2013 Tacoma. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
Thanks for letting me know one man! I updated the link, but here is the link I updated it with. Should be a low profile mini fuse. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T8LRSH7/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B07T8LRSH7&linkCode=as2&tag=braxen-20&linkId=17c841351b81bf90e4dbc726ea5ddadf
did this button fit in your middle console? (the same area as the video). Did you also buy the same button from the link provided in the description? thx !
Great vid! Does part of your switch light stay on at all times? Just installed mine and it is running even when off. Worried it might kill the battery. Thanks!
Mine do not stay on at all times. I would look at the add a circuit line if your light is staying on even when the truck is off. You have constant power coming in somewhere, could be the add a fuse (if you tapped into an always on circuit), but you may have an issue with your power wire too.
Even if i pull out the fuse tap the light is still on when the harness is plugged in. I'm guessing something is drawing power. My harness is red,white and black, which I noticed is different from yours. Maybe should I try swapping those wires around? Thanks!
I installed exactly as you did. The upper light on the switch stays on 100% of the time. The lower light of the switch turns on when the lights are on. Is there a way to not have the switch light on 100% of the time. If I park the car for a week unused, I am afraid it will drain my battery. *** Sidenote of what else I tried: If I run both red wires to the Add-a-fuse connected to the tail, then both switch lights stay on only when the regular truck lights are on. Unfortunately, they do not light up any more than already lit when I hit the switch to turn on the light bar. The red wire from the Auxbeam wiring harness is not connected to anything with this setup. Is this setup safe?
I think you need to swap your red wires then. When I have my DTRL on, the lower light will light up with the other dash lights. The upper light only lights up when the light bar is on.
stupid question, do u have to run separate fuse taps for dash lighting each button .......light bar, ditch light etc..?? or do u just run one fuse tap and splice all to that? also, been awhile, have you had any problems using the add a fuse on ur tail lights? no battery drain, etc....?
Quick questions for ya. I know you did this ahwile ago but I’m doing it to my 2nd gen as well just in a different spot. When I have the whole car turned off. The button stays on for some reason. Is that because I only have one relay?
I have a question about the wiring- these switches use 2 bulbs. One at the font “light-bar” and one at the image of the light-bar. Is there a way to wire it so the word is illuminated with your dash lights and then the light-bar image illuminates when it actually on?That way you know what the bar is actually lit up and the font is always lit. anyone do this? I think it would be the most oem way possible
I purchased 2 mictuning 18w led pod lights for my 2019 4runner & also bought the mictuning wiring harness w/ relay & 5 pin rocker switch. I want to use the same push button switch u installed in your video but im confused on wiring the OEM style switch that has 4 wires like yours. Could you give me some help??? I also need help in installing the maxxima 50910 strobe module for the lights. The installation for the module is straight forward but others say there is another way of installing it because of the relay... Im a bit confused!!!
appreciate the vid. question - what is the best brand of switch to use? most of the ones I have bought stop working after a couple of months. A link to them would be great! Thanks
i have 3 lights with 3 separte harnesses from 4wdking . one of the harnesses keeps blowing the inline fuse and burning out the switch? is it a bad relay?
Since you used to the TAIL fuse (10A), will the lights still dim with the rest of the interior lights? Or do you need to go through the PANEL (7.5A) fuse (which the interior lights supposedly go through)?
I don’t think they dim with the other lights if I remember right.. I’m out of town for the week, but I’ll get back to you on that! You could try the PANEL fuse, they might dim with that one of the interior light go through that.
Question. Why do you need another harness since the auxbeam already came with one ? Will I only need the harness I get with the auxbeam, an add a circuit ( for the switch illumination) and the switch itself ? I have a 12 Tacoma trying to do the same. I have an open slot where your diff lock switch is.
Am I right in assuming the word led has the fuse tap harness for accessory power? This video would of been handy if I found it 2 days ago... My led has white black and red cable wiring...
You don’t have to solder, I just did it for a more solid connection. You could just wrap them together and tape them, but I would at least get some wire crimps for them. That way they don’t come undone.
Can you link me to where you bought the switches for the left side of the steering wheel? I have a 2012 toyota tacoma and have looked all over amazon and couldn't find any that fit. The switch that came with my LED pods doesn't line up properly with the frame. For now it has just been sitting in that little compartment beneath and it looks tacky.
If you mean the way I did it, it can be pretty tough, that thing is on there tight. I usually have to give it a few tries. If you mean putting through the center with all the other wires, I don’t know, I’ve never tried haha.
Going through the center isn't bad at all. Simply just tape your wire to sort of long skinny rod or screw driver and pull it back into the cab. Did this technique many times on my tacomas.
If the daytime running likes are on, the switch is illuminated. The second light on the switch comes on when the light is turned on. So two lights, one above the other. One works with my dash lights, the other works when the light bar or pods are turned on. Both work if the headlights/DTRL lights are on, and the light bar/pods are turned on.
So did follow your instructions exactly and I have no issues with the switch being lit when the ignition is on. But my issue is I’m not exactly sure what I’m suppose to do with the red and black that go into the switch harness? Are those suppose to connect to the battery and negative directly? I already have a positive connected from the relay? Here is what I have done Black and white from relay to light bar. Relay to battery (red and black) Relay to harness is a white wire that goes to the switch connector (white) bellow that white connector I have a red and black again.... where do these go? please help. Thanks
Regarding the relay to battery connection: you only need to connect the positive and negative wire from the relay to the battery positive and negative. No other wires from the switch or anything else need to go to the battery positive/negative. Regarding the factory style button/button connector: you have 4 wires that come from the connector; 3 of them connect to the wires from the push button switch that I cut off, which connects to the relay in the other end. You have a negative (black), positive (green), and a red that goes to the red relay wire from the push button I cut off. The fourth red wire from the factory style button is what you wire into the add a fuse circuit. If you have a white wire, it could be similar to the positive green in my video, but make sure to check the diagram of your switch to be sure. Make sense?
@@BraxenMcConnell Pardon my stupidity here, I’m still confused. I wired the switch correctly after I cut the original switch that came with Amazon harness. but I’m still left with a red and black wire (not including the ones connected to the battery) . I’m starting to think there is something wrong with this harness I got. See if this pic helps drive.google.com/file/d/1LAXGnn-bZtOMmH-9aJlMJkjVHGbELAoc/view?usp=drivesdk
I have my switch connected straight to the battery but I want to change it to a different switch and connected to the fuses do I have to take the red wire off the battery
Do you have to take out the already existing 10amp fuse and then add it with the Add-A-Curcuit? Cause Apparently the Tail 10A slot is already taken up for me.
Kind of.. the add a circuit has a spot for two fuses, one for the original, and another for the added circuit. So you pull the existing fuse, but you put it in the first slot of the add a circuit. Make sense?
@@BraxenMcConnell yah totally makes sense! I basically combine the existing fuse with the new 10 amp. I did exactly as you showed in the video and it really helped me out!. Now my light bar switch lights up along with the dash lights. This was a great vid and it really helped me out! I really appreciate you taking the time to make this tutorial man!
You only need the add a fuse for the interior dash lights to work, but one of those power wires goes to the dash lights, and one goes to the power wire from the relay. Maybe you have them switched? Also, I had a guy one time think that he could plug the main power wire from the wire harness into the add a fuse line, you can’t, it doesn’t have enough power to light the bar. You need the main power wire of the relay connecting to the battery, one grounding somewhere on the truck, and then the wires that go to the button wire up to the replacement switch.
Braxen McConnell okay, that’s what I thought. Not sure if I have a faulty switch but I’ve tried every wiring configuration with no luck. Even tried a new harness. Cali raised just sent me the diagram, which I followed. No other solutions from them
Take a look at this link, there is a wiring diagram in the pictures that is pretty clear as far as how the harness should be wired. Then as far as the switch goes, take one more look at the video and see if it makes sense, but essentially you just have three main wires to worry about. The positive, negative, and the red wire that goes to the wiring harness relay. Those are the necessary connections. The fourth wire that goes to the add a fuse is strictly to make the switch light work with dash lights. www.nilight.com/products/nilight-off-road-atv-jeep-led-light-bar-wiring-harness-kit-40-amp-relay-on-off-switch?variant=25130940361
my harness has two wires one red and one blue. They connect to a prong switch now, but its too big. So i got the smaller switches I do not care to have them lit up, its no big deal, also do you know which wires would connect to my switch
Hmm if there are only two I would say the red is your positive that would connect to the relays 12v positive, then the blue is probably your negative which would connect to the black negative wire of your relay. Have you looked up the wiring for your specific switch? They should have some kind of diagram or instruction.
yeah its basically the same thing you have its got the 4 wires with the green connector that goes into the push button switch, the green connects from your source with an inline fuse, red 1 connect to your relay or accessories, red 2 normally connected to dash light circuit to be on when your dash lights are on, black is ground
Hi Braxen... I just hacked my garage opener to a Toyota push switch. the opener is working find , I have a red and black not being used. How can I get The switch to light up with the dash lights? I'm installing it on a 2019 Tacoma OffRoad left side short panel.
Sounds like you’d just need to run the power wire to a fuse that controls the interior lights.. it’s hard to know without seeing what’s been done, but that’s what it sounds like. It also depends on whether or not that power wire goes to the button light or not.
Brian Bawiec Hi Brian, thank you for your interest and helping me. I finally hooked up my switch to my garage remote hack. The remote is working, I then connected the ground and the tap a fuse wire to the dimmer fuse it turn on , but it doesn’t turn off when I turn the truck off. The switch stays on?... note the wires connected to the remote are running with the remote battery not the trucks. I’m only trying to light up the switch.
Braxen McConnell Hi Braxen , please note this a garage remote hack that I’m trying to do. The two wires to the remote work. The add a tap and the ground are now connected and also work ... the only problem is that when I turn the truck off the switch stays on...? Maybe you could figure it out...? I have disconnected the add a fuse to be safe. The Tacos is a 2019 TRD off-road ...👍
I'm having a dyslexic moment and was wondering if anyone can help? The Raptor lights are now black, yellow, red, and green. The harness is black, red, and white. I've gotten as far as black to black. I can't figure out the rest. 😂
Why does my switch stay lit even when the car is off? I bought the same switch as you and fuse tap in. The lights all turn on its just the switch stays on when the car is off...
That’s where I put it, yeah. You might have your two red wires on the button crossed. One goes to the relay, and the other goes to the LED lights in the switch. The one that comes from the relay supplies constant power, which is why the light on the relay is constantly on if you use the stock push button, the other illuminates the buttons with the other dash lights. So try swapping your two red wires around and see if that works.
No, the lights are off completely until I turn the truck on and turn on the dash lights. If the button is in the on position, then the switches will light up regardless of if the truck is on or not, but that is supposed to happen as an indicator that the light bar is on.
