Great video Chris! I've got a '99 Chevy 5.7 P30 too. Mine was running, drove it home and now it won't start. I checked the valve for fuel and it's shooting out, cranks and cranks but won't start. Replaced Dist Cap (a LOT of white corrosion), no go - doing rotor tomorrow. This video helped me a lot, thanks!
Great video. I just spent 3 grand on a used motor. I drove it home and a few days later it wouldn't turn over at all. Went and got a new battery a couple of weeks ago and it started just fine, now it's not getting fuel. I should have junked that POS last year. But thanks for the video. There was a couple of things you mentioned that I would not have thought about. Thanks.
Fuel pressure regulator will do that too . No fuel pressure. It’s in side the plastic part of the intake on the side of the spider injection . When you turn key and fuel shoots to your injector the regulator leaks gas and releases the fuel pressure causing it to be hard at crank
@@daftnord4957 when you take the upper intake off , it’s just a hollow box on top of your lower aluminum intake. Spider injection mounts in the middle . Fuel pressure regulator is mounted on the side of the fuel injection. It will leak gas and pretty much leak into the intake ports to the heads going to the valves and will eventually fire up . I got a couple old tahoes in the yard and one has a bad fuel pressure regulator on it . I’ll turn the key over for the fuel pump to kick on 3 or 4 times before I try cranking it up and the last time I’ll crank it and it will fire right up . If I don’t do that it will loose fuel pressure and won’t crank . Just turns over is all it will do
@@daftnord4957 another problem I’ve ran into on these 5.7 vortec fuel pump issues is the oil pressure regulator on the back of the block right under the distributor. Oil makes its way to the pig tail thru the oil pressure regulator and it will short out and cause the fuel pump not to work . And it’s around a $15 part . It’s a long cylinder looking part under the distributor
When I have these problems. I do away with the electronic Ignition and put older electronic Ignition systems on them. Go back to an inline fuel pump and do away with that stupid throttle body and computer. And I have a good running car computers missed them up
Hey chris, chris here. I have a similar issue with the same motor but ive replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor crankshaft sensor ignition control module and cranks start and once it starts and gets to 1000 rpm it dies. Any ideas what it would be for a 99 suburban k1500
I have the same issue, in my case it was my Security Module. No codes or anything. The module just goes bad, Look into a ProRebuild Module specific to your truck.
@@eslamalmeshhery5621 no bro, sadly i had to sell it. The guy i sold it to is a mechanic for chevy and if figured it out. The security system was malfunctioning so it would shut down the motor on the start up. Runs good now but before it would crank up to a lil over 1000rpm the shit down immediately.
Why not the fuel regulator?, I was wondering because I went and picked up all three things in case; how do I verify it’s not the regulator over the filter or pump?
