Can't remember where I heard it,but I tried a great tip this winter. A layer of fleece and a layer of wool work extremely well together.I was surprised how the two complement one another.
Thanks YCA, one to try for sure. I think key to a versatile system is that modularity. A wool baselayer (merino) with a synthetic mid (fleece) has been my go to for a while, and of course a wool blanket is ideal around the fire. But fleece usage does help keep the weight down, and of course you can wring it almost dry instantly. Whilst my aim is to go plastic free as much as possible trying to get to robust data led understanding of relative material stregths and weaknesses is the aim.
I have been using a US Military Polar Fleece Blanket underneath a US Military 100% Wool GI Blanket for over 10 years and the combination is fantastic. I have slept comfortably down to 25 degrees F using this combo. The two weigh roughly 6 1/2 pounds, or about the weight of a Hudson Bay wool blanket. However, the USGI wool/fleece combo pack down much smaller than a Hudson Bay and are more resistant to tearing. Adding a 2nd or 3rd Polar Fleece Blanket to this combo makes it warm enough to go down to sub-zero temperatures. When multiple fleece blankets are layered underneath wool, the insulation effect of the air pockets greatly increases. Another excellent combo is a down blanket underneath a wool blanket. Cheers, Jason
I really appreciate your scientific approach to this test. Cold hard facts can't be beat. Body heat is trapped within the air pockets of a blanket. So the larger the quantity of air pockets the better the insulation levels. As you pointed out at the end of your assessment a liner bag and a quality bivvy bag will be the best. The bivvy bag protects the air pockets within the blanket from being disturbed by the external environment. Thank you for solving my motorcycle camping trips. A bivvy bad, thick fleece blanket and a self inflating mattress.
Thanks @rusticthumper5500. Absolutely that's the aim, to get through the anecdotal stuff to a more fact driven approach. I think you are spot on with the point around air movement and the value of layers to prevent loss of warm air mass. E.g. bivvy bag. That of course has to maintain some breathability or can get a bit sweaty but have tested the blanket and bivvy bag approach and kept warm and comfortable, clothed, close to zero. The challenge was the slight faff in setup of the blanket. Blanket pins or some sort of sewn on tie ribbons to make it super easy to construct a blanket sleeping bag easily is a planned enhancement for me.
Im glad you did test a fleece blanket that was actually comparable in weight to the wool, ive seen similar test videos where they do unfair test just to say wool is superior. Wool can be superior in ways, but with blankets fleece is very good. The main thing wool has going for it is that its not as flammable and has anti microbial effects(which is always parroted but genuinely valuable part of wool).
Thanks Fintan. Absolutely, I think if you are using multiple blankets, carrying a combination of types is a good way to maximise flexibility. I can be as guilty as anybody else of wanting wool to outperform fleece in every way, as I want to use less plastics, but the reality is that fleece is a great material performance wise!
Wool insulates even when soaking wet. Thousands of natives and prospector’s where I live wouldn’t touch fleece with a ten foot pole. Fleece is good for weekend adventures
Has others have commented, wool when wet is a right bugger ! Especially when you are having to keep moving and can't stop to wring it out or light a fire to dry it out, PLUS, trying to dry a wool blanket in front of a wood fire , in the open, when its pouring with rain is a right "buggers muddle". Ray Mears has a episode comparing New Zealand wool coats and Goretex jackets. Goretex won hands down. He was commenting on poor folk that had been so weighed down by their wool coats that had been soaked,then frozen , by the weather that the unfortunate people could not make it to the safety of a mountain hut which was just a couple of hundred yards away. Food for thought there mate.
Appreciate the input, thanks Clive. Will have a look out for that Mears episode. Whilst am aiming to use less plastics in the hills/outdoors dying of hypothermia is low on the list. Realistically when it comes to potentially wet alpine or winter mountain use, as opposed to warmer or properly frozen weather hiking or bushcraft, am unlikely to drop the conventional hardshell based approach for the time being. There are of course systems like Fjallraven's g-1000, proofed polycotton, that offer a part natural fibre alternative and can be mountain suitable. Of course waxed canvas over wool was the fishermans and sailors staple for 100s of years. Having the rain proof layer to minimise wool staturation, whether it's goretex or waxed cotton, rather than a belief that wool itself can manage every situation is probably a reasonable balance.
@@bigskies2202 You are approaching this with some enthusiasm. The Ray Mears episode was , suitably, set in New Zealand, if that helps. For further research you might like to look up the use of Ventile cotton in World War II, in RAF immersion suits. The SAS also utilised Ventile in their early pattern smocks , like the '1963' pattern. One of the advantages that I remember is that Ventile swells when wet and this increases it's windproof factor. Best of luck with your research and I look forward to reading your conclusions.
Ah, the good old Kiwi "Swannie" (the famous "Swanndri" brand woolen bush jacket, for those unfamiliar with "Kiwi Kulcha") - that can apparently hold about 9 gallons of water if soaked and would outright drag you down and *_drown_* you if you fell out of a boat while wearing one. Had to bail from a flood-prone campsite in the midst of a sudden downpour in the middle of the night while wearing one - made it out safely but that was the *last* time I ever wore it when camping.
A test using hot water bottles and temperature probes would be more accurate. You can swaddle the bottle and never have to release the heat. Lifting the lid is creating loss that's not being accounted for. Also, a test of wet/damp material would be good, as well as wind / breeze effect. I imagine in a dry windless environment, both are going to insulate great. There are some other things to consider, like multi-use / versatility. Can you make a shelter with it or can it be a ground cloth, longevity (will it be an heirloom, can it be resold or does it get binned), and how does it hold up to time and cleaning.
Hi JEK, thanks for the comments and for sure probes etc. would be ideal although I don't have those at home. Whilst there is some heat loss when removing the lids, for later tests I have dropped the intermittent checks and gone for one check after half and hour and another another half an hour later. Results have remained consistent so happy they are sufficiently illustrative for relative comparison. There is a wet blanket follow up here for the wool. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B1kPUCRgt2U.html . Synthetic not tested yet wet. Breeze/wind is an interesting one but on the test list. i.e. a windproof shell, even of very thin wax cotton, if sticking to naturals, or conventional nylon will of course prevent a lot of heat loss under those conditions. Potentially more than another layter of insulator.
My favourite wool blanket is a Yak wool blanket that was a gift, they cost between £30 - £50 depending on the size you buy. Mine is roughly the same thickness as the thin fleece in your video, its about a third of the weight of my British military blanket and folds down into a small space. Its warm , keeps its insulation even when wet , and I've "worn" it like a "great kilt" after falling into a river .it's a great piece of kit
I just listened to some of your videos and you have a new subscriber. I appreciate your use of the scientific method. It would be also interesting to see your field review, for instance of two nights in the wool vs polyester of the same weight, humidity and temperature. One thing that helps with wool is trapping the insulated air with a tight, but light weave fabric over top. It allows it to breath and not get clammy like polyester, yet traps the dead air better than a blanket alone. Last night I tried a boiled wool long coat as a blanket and it effectively kept heat from escaping as much as a fluffier more lofty multilayer wool blankets. All trade offs and variables make these tests/ trials difficult to use the scientific method, but produce some practical conclusions nevertheless. Have a good day sir! 🍵🙂👍
Thanks @preacherman9018. Appreciate the thoughts. Totally agree on adding a breathable but airflow resistant layer. Have found the combination of wool blanket with a light wax cotton overbag works well for trapping the heat. Loft is great, but if you can't trap the warm air in the lofted fabric not so useful. I am hoping to get the time to get more testing in soon. Have a fair few ideas especially for my project of doing more plastic free wild camping with my homemade kit designs.
I like waxed cotton too. My favorite jacket is a bees wax and oil blend field jacket I reconditioned. It was a special gift from my uncle who survived two wars as an Airborne Ranger. I commissioned a tailor to add a special high quality waterproof finished leather collar. It's at home in the woods or church on Sunday mornings. It is surprisingly breathable for how water resistant it performs. That's "adjustable" by how much finish is reapplied each year. Touch up on high wear areas like shoulders where backpack straps rub. Most important are the memories of my uncle teaching me about hunting and outdoors. He's not around now, but sentimental value is there. It's extremely versatile. . I want to make a thin worsted wool blanket ,turn off the heat on the bed room for my own experiment. There won't be wind, but want to find out if a tight woven sheet of the wool will help in the way we are thinking.
Wool blankets are the best. The Hudson Bay company introduced wool blankets to Canada. The First Nation peoples instantly recognized their value in the Canadian winter. For Prospectors and early settlers the blankets were life savers. Even wet in a rain storm they keep you warm. And I have a fifty five year old blanket that still works like new.
Thanks Dan. Yes I suppose wool wouldn't have been used by so many people for so long if it didn't offer a great solution. One of the the other things am super interested in is how the weave/knit influences. A tightly woven heavy weave, e.g. like tweed, is weather repellent but less insulative. A loose fluffy knit is more insulating, traps more air, but not as wind/ driving rain resistant. Which again leads me to the ideal solution being a hybrid/layering approach, or dual face fabric which can provide both.
Ill take wool any day over the synthetic, if your wool gets wet in a freezing environment just lay it flat and let it freeze solid then shape it into a cone like tipi and sit inside it. If its wet and above freezing itll insulate still as long as theres space between you and the blanket, slightly suspended above you.
Hi Velsbasketcase. Thanks. Not heard the tipi tip before. In my other wet wool test video using the wet blanket as a shelter rather than as a direct blanket is one suggestion so that tipi is one to add to the toolbox. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B1kPUCRgt2U.html
when the temp drop to -40 c find a warm grizzle bear to snuggle up to just don't put your cold feet on him to wake the bear you will have more cold feet to worry about
there is one thing i would add to the wool blanket wisdom. I'm sure you know this but, new people may not. wool is versatile in its purpose depending on weave and loft of the fibers. meaning this: tightly woven fiber blanket not only blocks heat from escaping the body it blocks the wind from removing precious body heat as well! the tighter the weave the better the wind blockage. fibers with a looser weave and maximized loft retain heat by trapping warm air within individual hollow fibers and between each neighboring fiber. wool fibers that have the natural sheep oils (lanolin) are great at repelling water. wool blankets and clothing with the lanolin can smell a bit, well, sheepy. however, this lovely scent is a life saver and lets you know it will help you in cold damp environments. wool sheds water at a fast rate as well. i use a hooded poncho (woobie) with the synthetic liner but, i add a wool blanket in between them. any condensation is repelled by the wool blanket while it helps the liner trap the warm air. liked the video. subbed {nebraska, usa here} 🌽🎍🎼
A great summary, thanks highonimmi. I think it sums up well why there is so much more to the debate than just blanket (no pun intended) statements about wool. Also that a hybrid system which utilises different types and weaves, e.g. a high loft fluffy inner layer plus a densely woven wind and water resistant outer, can offer much more versatility.
Of course, everyone has different tolerances to cold and the amount of insulation will depend on the individual. The first two tests showed a marginal difference between wool and fleece which probably wouldn't be noticed by most folk.
It's a good point Simon. My choice would be largely driven by other practicalities. E.g. if fires are involved wool is the way to go, if weight is a factor probably fleece. Also have always found wind cuts straight through plain fleece. That's another test though!
@@bigskies2202 Or simply cop out as I did a while back and get a Snugpack blanket which is light, packs compactly, fleecelike, but had a windproof outer layer - ! 😁
There 2 factors you fail to take into account. The first is you choose wool over synthetic for its fire resistance. A stray spark will destroy a synthetic item quickly. Second how does your results hold up when both item are wet with a set amount of moisture. Your not always going to stay bone dry in the wild like you will inside a house room. Synthetics lose their protection when wet which effects wool less. Lastly when you use a wool blanket it is only one part of a three part system. That is proper clothing ... the wool blanket itself... and a camp fire. I use a lavvu tent/lean-to, a canvas tarp, a 100% wool blanket and a heat source(ie a camp fire). The blanket can also be used as an additional over coat if required as the lavvu can be used a a cloak for a wind break while traveling. I have used this system from 32f to 17f very comfortably. The canvas tarp, wool blanket, sleeping cloths, plus miscellaneous gear packs down to a roll 12"x18"x10" approximately. My cookset, and water system attach to the sides simply. Which also includes my fire kit and personal first aid kit. Yes some items are definitely heavier but are also multi use that greatly reduces the number of items I carry. I have turned 1 old blanket into a hunter's shirt and a second into a jacket.
Great POV thanks Bill. Very important points on fire and blanket versatility. My broader project overall is motivated by a desire to move away from synthetics as much as possible. With this in mind have been running some more tests on other materials that I will post shortly. Alpaca in particular has performed strongly in terms of warmth for weight. Of course knit is also important. Wanting to trap maximum air being key. Wet warmth and drying time are also on the test plan. Wet wool's interesting properties of potential heat generation under certain conditions is also of interest. However I have found synthetic fleece pretty good in wet. As it doesn't absorb water into the actual fibres it wrings to almost dry easily and can still insulate well. Have used synthetic fleece undersuits for caving, these are the most popular choice for this, which can be particularly wet and muddy! There is absolutely still a place for my cheap army surplus blanket. Although heavy, for bushcraft and woodland style camping it's still high on my packing list. Especially when camp fires are involved.
Very nice video. It is nice to see a You Tuber have data to back up statements Well done! It would be interestjng to see your approach on Clay pot and candle lantern heaters
Thanks @bowtiejoe2413. On Candle lantern heaters reality is a single tea light candle kicks out about 32w of heat. So several will make a.difference in a small space but not keep a room toasty. Rough rule of thumb is 10w per sq. Ft. So a tiny 6x8ft room would require 480w or 16 tea lights to keep warm. As using lots of candles in a clay pot heater has quite big fire risk, wax vaporisation and flash, I think not super feasible for safe effective heating. That being said, the psychological warming effect of candles and ability to clay pots to hold and radiate heat more slowly means they can have some positive benefit. But certainly not the magic some claim. I do like to carry a few tea lights for bothying or wild camping for that psychological effect. I do have an insulated 10x6ft shed so maybe some tests on that next winter!!
Good test! Would be interesting to store the blankets outside / in real humidity + temperature condition - like it would be in a tent or car. Because I prefer synthetic in the car not so much for the weight, but mostly for the (illusion?) of a "warmer grip" when needed. I also have the impression that i takes more time to feel warm under a (stored in cold+humid condition) wool blanket - then a fleece blanket. But this might be an effect caused by the mass itself?
It's a good question Harald. I suspect because the wool fibres do absorb water whereas fleece doesn't that for storage in cool humid places the fleece would gain an edge. Certainly I keep an old fleece blanket in the car boot/trunk for emergencies as presume less likely to hold damp or get mouldy.
I liked the vid interesting experiment. I didn’t really see a significant change in performance in either test. Both were surprisingly close in preventing heat loss. When we are stationary heat loss is improved by trapping most of the heated air with multiple layers of whatever material. Obviously both convection and conduction will also play a major role in heat loss as well. And both wool and fleece are awful when wet or frozen. Sometimes it’s more than a weight consideration, it may also be a bulk issue. Where the density of wool has an advantage over the loft of fleece. And I have found that fleece breathes more than wool during activity. And that wool is more durable, friction areas, than fleece. No one material does it all or well. I prefer down or Wiggy’s lamilite insulation when talking heat loss. I’d rather take a larger fleece to double over me, than a single layer of wool down to 55F. Beyond that I’d add an SOL quiet, tough, and inexpensive Mylar sheet to the fleece or wool to reduce radiation loss as well. Best test I’ve seen so far. Thanks.
Thanks Kurt, some good food for thought. Absolutely agree on the layering principles to get the most out of each material. Am pulling together a summary of the various findings from the different tests. The trick is definitely choosing the right combination for the conditions expected and understanding the pros and cons of each material.
What was the wool content in the army blanket...i.e. 100% or 70% or ??. I've seen "wool" blankets advertised that were as low as 40% wool. That might affect your testing process? Thanks for doing this video.
Thanks Doug. Good question. Believe, and was sold, this blanket as 100% wool. Have flame tested and happy that is likely the case. Obviously as a surplus one can't be 100% sure. A higher quality wool blanket may likely perform better, I suppose army blankets are chosen for durability etc. But on their side they are cheap so comparable to a good fleece blanket in cost. And of course super popular for bushcraft etc.
Interesting test. All the comments about how wool keeps you warm even when wet, still has X percentage of its insulating value…the numbers vary it seems. BUT how many people saying this have actually slept in a wet wool blanket or garment? I haven’t, don’t plan to but I’d like to know their experience.
Thanks @asmith7876. That is a really important point. In the wet blanket insulating test have done ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B1kPUCRgt2U.html it was definitely not quite such a clear answer as "wool keeps you warm when wet". I've not spent a night in a wet wool blanket myself, keeping bedding dry and finding/ carrying shelter when there is a chance of being wet is a packing priority. If you are left with a sopping wool blanket as the only option something has gone pretty wrong!
tip from a long time biker/stealth camper: 1 pair of cotton pyjamas 1 Tyvec white painters suit on top. that's it, the Tyvec suit is breathable, waterproof, ultra lightweight, cheap. Try it, make a video, share the knowledge.
Thanks Jimbo878. Am always impressed by how lightweight bikers can go. Everything often stuffed in a couple of small panniers. I see tyvek crop up a bit regarding cheap lightweight DIY tarps etc. Will definitely have to test the material at some point, a suit would certainly channel a beastie boys vibe.
My guess is that I should use medium-large fleece blankets in my medium-large camping/emergency kits and small-medium (thick heavyweight) wool blankets in my small-medium kits. Would like to hear another commenter’s theory.
Its not even a question for me. Im furiously allergic to wool. Cant wear it. Cant touch it Cant wear anything that has been washed with wool items. (Have to throw them away) I have to do an empty wash cycle after wool items have been washed, then its ok.
The big drawback of synthetics - their flammability - is becoming less and less of an issue as more and more places around here implement fire bans. The gas/alcohol stove is not likely to throw sparks that melt holes in your jacket, tent or tarp...
Absolutely, no fires definitely negates one of the key benefits of wool. I am keen to minimise plastic use though so if i can learn more to get good performance from the natural stuff it's all good.
@@bigskies2202 A lot of the quality camping-grade synthetic wear has labels saying what percentage is recycled plastic - one range of polar fleece actually has a label pictographically rendering how many plastic drink bottles were used in its manufacture (polar fleece is Polyethylene Terephallate - PET), and I like knowing that some of the camping gear I'm using is going towards reducing plastic waste. About the only natural fabric I'll use as clothing is Merino wool - and that's for lightweight base-layer stuff like underwear, t-shirts, socks and gloves, not bulky jackets or bedding that can potentially absorb and hold multiple litres of water. Of course, I won't wear any cotton clothing at all.
The reuse of recycled plastics for fleece is definitely a great thing! Have been an avid fleece wearer my whole life. My main driver for reduced use is probably the microplastics piece. Getting a bit alarmed at the levels of microplastics turning up everywhere from the deep ocean to drinking water. However am not ready to ditch the fleece quite yet, especially when chance of really getting wet, but for those circumstances where I can get away without it am moving in that direction. I wore a merino base layer with a fluffy woollen jumper and a wax cotton smock for my most recent wild camp (which went down close to freezing) and was very cosy.
@@bigskies2202 Yeah microplastics are a major problem and I don't think they're ever going away - short of genetically-engineering bacteria to break down specific plastics, I guess. DuPont was aware that their Teflon was contaminating water supplies - and people - back in 1980 and hid that fact (exactly what you'd expect from a manufacturer of explosives used in weapons, I suppose, they're not exactly worried if their products harm humans.)
Absolutely, the genie is out of the bottle on the micro plastics now. As you say a tough challenge and maybe those bacteria will be the answer. Funny you should mention the teflon. Have recently moved to carbon steel pans at home and really impressed, really quite easy to clean once seasoned a bit. But that's a whole other subject!!
Very interesting, I have not seen this type of evaluation before. Although wool was better than standard fleece the difference was not great. Wool blankets are typically heavier and more expensive than fleece. Wonder what the result would be if you calculated heat retained per kg of blanket material or heat retained per unit cost of blanket. I think on that basis standard fleece would come out on top.
Hi John, thanks. Have enjoyed getting beyond purely anecdotal evidence with some rudimentary home science. A lot of variables for the wool especially to consider, weave, wool type etc. I agree for cost, you definitely wouldn't get near the synthetic fabrics, and, unless you go very expensive with the natural fabrics, unlikely weight as well. Interestingly the alpaca test I have done showed pretty fantastic performance for the alpaca which is also very light. If you are sticking to blankets over sleeping bags going for wool, for around the fire etc, with additional synthetic layers for additional layering is probably a good balance for versatility, whilst not weighing a tonne. I am personally looking to minimise plastic use, partly due to the micro-plastics issue so will be exploring different knits/weaves to try and find a more optimal wool approach than the heavy surplue blankets.
Hi Eric, have been a big user of polartec for years, although not in blanket form. Like wool all polyester fleece is not created equal. Polartec do make some hollow fibre fabrics which are typically superior for pure insulation but conversely not all is hollowfibre. A natural equivalent to hollowfibre would be alpaca which is my "best on test" fibre so far. Very expensive though!
Military surplus wool blankets are not outdoor blankets. They're often not 100% wool and too thin. They're designed for racks/bunks/cots INDOORS inside military barracks. An outdoor wool camping blanket needs to be 100% wool, at least queen sized, and have some weight and thickness to it. And with wool blankets you also need appropriate clothing and a proper shelter and fire once you start hitting freezing temperatures and below. I have 6lb 100% wool Hudson Bays and Witneys. They are super warm but bulky. If I'm choosing a wool blanket outdoors I'll go with my Pathfinder blanket which is a large queen sized Faribault Woolen Mills, 100% wool blanket and an additional 100% wool "patoo" shawl blanket They make and wear in places like Afghanistan/Pakistan/Nepal. The patoo is an additional 2lbs to the (also) 6lbs Faribault blanket but the Faribault blanket packs much tighter than any of the Hudson Bays and is just as warm, IMO, once you wrap up in it. So 8lbs of wool but packs tighter/flatter and will be tons warmer than just a single Hudson Bay/Witney. Two thinner wool blankets are warmer than a single thick one. So if all you have is the thinner military surplus, then pack two and that should do pretty well.
Good insight, thanks PR. I think the military surplus blanket is a handy reference point as they are so popular, cheap and readily available in various forms. For sure though they are far from optimal, at the end of the day loft and minimising air movement whilst allowing moisture movement is key. And a thin blanket simply doesn't trap much air. However as you say layered in multi layers, ideally including a wind proof layer if exposed certainly makes them very usable.
Could you do the same test after they’ve been wetted.. maybe not completely drenched but damp? As if you got caught in some rain or you fell in water and covered up or just a very foggy misty night
Hi Supersoni, very good question. I am actually going to do some tests on exactly that shortly, keen to get a bit more data behind the whole warm when wet theory. Both applied to blankets and clothing fibres.
@supersoni126 If it's 100% wool, it will retain around 80% warmth when wet. Obviously, wring it out first and try and get a fire started to supplement and dry out the wool faster. If it's 100% wool, you'll be surprised how warm it still can be. Biggest problem with wet wool is it gets HEAVY.
Hi Mark, have also done an alpaca test and the answer is very well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lTIUhRGdNQ4.html There is a little league table of all the materials tested so far as well on the blog: big-skies.co.uk/projects/myog/alpaca-vs-cashmere-which-is-warmer/
Hi American Minuteman. It's a very good question. So in the first test the uninsulated control cup lost 27% more energy than the wool blanket, in the second 31%. So as you say there is variation. There are a few variables at play that could have driven this difference (This is rough "home science" rather than laboratory controlled of course). Chiefly ambient air temp, water start temp (there is some variety out of my hot water tank) and critically time of measurement. On that last one, there will be very little difference if you measure after 5 minutes (little time to cool) or after 5 hrs (when both bodies of water have likely reverted fully to ambient temp). Everything between is on a curve and there will be a point of maximum difference. For this first test I was not super strict on measurement timings, nor start water temp so it's likely these which drove the variation. As I have done more of these tests, this was the first, have made a few tweaks to hopefully minimise differences. Averaging multiple readings, actually doing less of the intermediate readings (removing lid effect) etc.
Wool is great and all but is a pita to haul around vs down quilt or even fleece. If you get wet, even with wool, youre pretty much screwed, it may still insulate but to what effect and forget it if theres a breeze. I bet a 2 lb down quilt would be just as effective as 6lbs of wool.leaveing you with enough weight savings for a tent.
Yeah for sure I think where weight is an issue there is simply no substitute for Down as insulation. For above snowline mountain use, arctic or severely cold weather it's almost the only choice (we won't get into sledding and skins etc.). For use around a fire, or throwing around the shoulders during the evening a wool blanket is great though. For often damp camping in the UK, synthetic sleeping bags are often a better choice than down though. One of my personal projects is a plastic free wild camping setup, for purely ideological reasons. Plastic free down bags are basically non existent, barring a few super expensive options, so my main interest is in engineering a usable system myself that can deliver good performance whilst balancing the weight and comfort consideration. I am playing with using an old silk liner to create a down quilt but wool is the logical startpoint so aiming to get a realistic view of the performance.
Yeah down is on the test list for sure. Am pretty confident that it is by far the best for pure insulation. I wouldn't consider any serious cold weather outdoor sleeping without it (fires excepted).
Interesting point on the down merino mix. There is a a German company, Gruezi, doing some nice looking down/wool sleeping bags but they are super expensive so may knock up my own version. Sounds like a good combo though!
Hi @celtwarrior7851. The disadvantage wool blankets have when wet is drying times. If properly soaked wool takes a long time to dry and fleece can be wrung close to dry almost instantly. And a dry fleeece will definitely insulate better than a soaking wool blanket. Will run a comparison test on that very thing I think. That being said I like wool and want to use it more and fleece less.
Hi 280z jammer. Have done a wet wool test versus the dry here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B1kPUCRgt2U.html have a couple more to do but wet fleece equivalent also on the test list 😁
And there is always the person who is allergic to wool. That's me. I was never able to sleep under wool blankets without waking up with a itchy rash. A layer of fleece under wool might work for me. I was always cold under a army blanket and I itched
Hi Frances. Some of the finer and smoother wool types might help, but they get expensive so ultimately when it comes to allergies we can't be too choosy. I have just done a night with a silk sleeping bag liner under the blanket and that also works pretty well.
Will run a wet wool versus wet fleece test shortly. Have tested just this wet wool blanket in this vid ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B1kPUCRgt2U.html and part of the answer is, it depends how wet!!
Thanks Michael, it's an interesting one that. I have just posted my test on the wet army wool blanket. Wool has some great moisture management features, and absolutely my favourite for baselayers, but there are a few different factors at play.
A classic it depends :) Alongside some of the other tests have done so far it's about chosing the right option for the right circumstance. The wool has versatility, great around the campfire etc. which makes it great for bushcraft but cheap wool blankets are heavy and bulky. But if you don't have to carry it far and are having fires I think it would be my first choice. Synthetics are relatively cheap, lighter than equivalently priced wool options and provide good insulation but are not resistant to fire etc. So if you want a light blanket for backpacking in warm conditions a fleece blanket would be a great choice. Have found you can get great performance for weight from the more expensive natural fibres. So far, Alpaca is the winner for warmth and can offer synthetic level lightweight but an alpaca blanket is very expensive. This would be my money no object choice so far. A lot more testing to be done though!
I think if we are talking pure performance, using both where best suited is the answer. But knowing which is better for certain situations is useful. As my perspective is partly about wanting to use less plastics for fairly straightforward environmental reasons I want to know how to extract the maximum from wool and natural fibres to give me comparable performance.
@@bigskies2202 I'm talking about layering them. I suppose for repurposing, wool is superior. Today's blankets, tomorrow's scarves, next week's gaiters...
Yeah I think a lot of people have found layering them is a great way to get the best of every world. 2 wool blankets = heavy but warm, 1 wool blanket + 1 fleece one = lighter and still warm, 2 Fleece = gain more holes than a swiss cheese around the fire.
@@bigskies2202 Plus you can take one of the blankets, place it on a foam pad, roll up one end of the blanket a little. Bam. You've added more comfort, insulation, and head support to your sleeping mat. Wish I'd thought of this sooner. Being a side sleeper, I'm very particular about keeping my neck straight while sleeping. It's important to ensure the blankets are identical in size and thickness, so they can be rolled-up as one, however awkwardly. 60"x90" is relatively common for blankets here in the USA, it seems. Can even ditch the foam pad and use a moving blanket, bringing our total to three. Improvised bedrolls are fun.
Good idea Scowler. I also side sleep so usually fashion some sort of pillow from my spare clothes stuff sack but anything to assist that is useful. Whilst I won't be totally ditching my sleeping bags, especially for really cold weather and long distance carrying there really is something nice about a constructed bedroll!
Fleece can be shaken to be almost completely dry, can't do that with wool. Oh but wool insulates even when wet they say, Not Outdoors! the wind will freeze you to hypothermia way before that wet wool ever dries to a propper level of insulation.
Thanks TBOR. I have tried a wet wool test as well. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B1kPUCRgt2U.html Certainly as you say the wool won't wring completely dry and it seems to depend a bit on the type of wool and weave etc. For this army surplus type wool blanket though it still retains quite a lot of moisture which does have an evaporative cooling effect as dries. Conversely on a wet sock test, the wrung sock which has a springier knit wrung and insulated well still.
I've found that fleece and polypropylene etc also insulate when wet - and, as you point out, they dry a lot faster. The thing that should convince anyone is a video made by an Alaskan outdoorsman who advocates buying synthetics over wool - if someone in *_ALASKA_* of all places says that synthetic is better, that pretty much ends the "argument".
Ha ha. Yes, fair challenge but you can't control conditions in a forest, and controlled conditions is the only way to get a fair test. The test is purely looking at dry insulation capability, other factors are discussed.
@@bigskies2202 If your running the tests at the same time and conditions, would that not give you a better chance to demonstrate in the actual environment your stating to be testing for? Not sure about your living room, but mine does not get fifteen to twenty mile per hour winds, as it may or may not outdoors.
Field testing is definitely important, and doing both types lab (living room 😁)+field is absolutely the best way to get to better data. A bit like a formula 1 team will wind tunnel test but also track test. As material performance is a combination of insulation + moisture response/management + wind resistance + durability + fire retardant and probably more, understanding each value in isolation just gives us a deeper understanding to help us make better choices in differing conditions. All IMO.
Glad you found it interesting, all an attempt to get past anecdotal data on fabric performance. On the sound, have to admit I hadn't noticed but then it is me. Will drink more water 😉
Biggest negative for synthetics are they take Eons to break down. The amount of clothing rubbish we in the west generate is frightening for the planet. Please use wool, especially if you care about your future great grandchildren.
A super important point thanks Andrew. This is one of the main motivators for me in creating this series of tests, to understand the relative performance to help me make more sustainable choices where possible. It is of course complex. Fleece is typically made of recycled PET bottles (ideally we'd use less of these in the first place) which is a good thing, but obviously fleece shedding microplastics is an unfolding horror story. There are a few personal choices I am trying to make which I think we can all adopt, avoiding buying new kit all the time, buying quality kit which should last for years (the oiled wool jumper/pullover I have been using this winter is awesome), and repairing/ making my own kit where possible (I got a lot of satisfaction in spending a night wild camping at close to freezing with close to plastic free kit over easter - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7UOX2iw0Ng0.html )
yup always give your woollens a bit of care and attention or the moths'll get em! as long as you don't mind the look usually pretty repairable with a bit of darning!
@@ourtechwriter I tend to try and ensure nothing is left undisturbed too long. In the summer the plastic vacuum storage bags, no vacuuming required, are also pretty bug proof.
