Thanks for the tip! I’ve got one for you. When placing small or detailed stickers and decals it can be tricky cause they like to stick to your fingers or tweezers. Spray your tweezers tips with silicone mold release. The sticker let’s go without any trouble at all.
Great tips thank you so much, I'm getting ready to do build and do you think this process will work on high density foam for upholstery,I'm going to be using it for a cosplay build ?
Petronio's Master All-Purpose Cement, Heat Activated probably a Polyurethane Glue same stuff but cheaper. It's best to get thinner specifically for them so you can rejuvenate the glue if it sits for a long time. Have not found thinner for the Petronio's though. All good stuff !!! If they hold a shoe together well then.
Hi Ben, i'm new to the hobby and i appreciate all your videos and tips. I was wondering, could you pin the two pieces together perfectly (after the barge has dried) then run the heat gun over the pinned seams to connect them?
would barge keep something together in hot weather? I need to fix some ripped leather in my car and am going to use barge to keep the two pieces together, but would the sun melt it and make a mess?
Most manufacturers specify maximum service temperature of 70°C for chloroprene contact adhesive. It can sometimes be reached in a car in very hot sunny climates on a black surface that receives direct sunlight, but in most places such temperature can never be reached even in direct sunlight.
Why not hold it in place then heat it with pieces together? Or push pin it and heat it, maybe even tape or put your heat gun on it's lil stand hold foam in place and tack it in a couple places then heat it? Would that work?
Great tip thanks! I too used to build & fly remote planes from 40 to 90 nitro fueled planes. Super Chipmunks, Ultimate, etc. For about 20 years. I still have the 2nd plane I built in 1986. The 1st I sold. Rarely ever crashed. Caught a bad disease Lyme Disease 30 years ago. Result wasn't properly diagnosed so for the last 11 years keep getting dizzier. Can't look up anymore. Sorry for the long comment. 😳
Lol, I'm getting a earfull from those impatient types for taking too long :) thanks for letting me know I was not too foolish to keep my excitement in the video.
@@DreadMakerRoberts I was excited when I started mixing a bit of Qwikseal into my paint to make it indestructibly stretchy on foam. The important thing is to share the knowledge!
@@DreadMakerRoberts Here is my quick little video of it, including the test. It also links to a more scientific comparison test I did later. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CDv5-b6Bv40.html
As long as the heat creeps through to the full thickness of the joint sure. So for thin materials this would work but I suspect after 4mm the heat would not penetrate deep enough
@@DreadMakerRoberts sorry, I meant the container, but after searching for a while it looks like a leather glue bottle, is that right? Does the cement dry or clump, or does it have a good seal?
Barge sells a thinner that you add a small amount to the dried out bottle. It will reactivate the dry glue and thin it back out to useable adhesive. It also seconds as a contact adhesive remover.
How does this solve any of your problem statements? The major complaints in the beginning were that it takes time, stinks and can not fix any poorly constructed seams. This method takes more time, still can have poorly constructed seams that are difficult to correct and will still stink during the original application. Final application method is the same as any (paper assist). It has a singular benefit of resurrecting a a fully cured application. For making prepared adhesive kits it may be good but at a pretty large added cost to the customer (low skill job being done by the expert). Those things should have been the focus. Sounded more like a chance to name drop the movie you are working on with Adam (nice trick by the way but probably still violates your NDA, if you cant say it, your shouldn't print it). That said, your videos are well produced and I occasionally watch them as someone on the rise in the industry. However, please be considerate to your subscribers time and cut to the point. This could have been a 5 minute video of...."did you know you can reactivate Barge? Here's how..." A tip of the day thing. I already new this, most solvent based adhesives can be with a bit of heat. Now if you can tell us a quicker way to fix a misaligned seam without sanding or filling or cutting and re-gluing, I'm all ears. Keep at it Ben.
If you watch in the video I realign a seam by heating it, pulling it apart and putting it back together. As far as stink goes you can paint it on, put it away where you can't smell it gas off and not smell it. Yes you can use paper to keep things separate but it's clumsy and awkward. Last is if you glue and walk away you can go do other things, I know it is silly but if I am going to stick things together right away I wait for it to dry and so to most of the people I work with, this ends up wasting time. There is a time savings here all be it minor. For large batch jobs this is the way to go too. The show is wrapped and I have been outed by Adam on his channel and you can see me in the IMDB so I am not violating anything awesome you are watching my back though. Thank you! Your comments are noted. I'll try and make my videos more dense. ;) Pun intended ...
I'm going out on a limb here and guessing the movie you worked on could be ghost-busters 2.0 or what ever the number is now,probably the squeal to the last one,the one with all the women in,sorry can't think of any of their names off hand,but i'm sure you all know what i'm going on about. 🤣 Love your enthusiasm for this glue and it's so catching. 😉 Much love and respect coming out of the UK. 😉👍🏾👍🏾
Hi ben, I checked for the maker space web site you refered to but there are many different sites. Would you please provide a link to the one your were referring to ? thank you
Great tip Ben,min Woodworking we often spray our contact Cement for Veneering woods to keep things a little neater we use spray shields often just thin cardboard , flat sheet metal and Verical Grade HPDL which is simply the thinnest plastic laminates often refered to its trade name like Formica btw the Horizontal grade is what’s used for counter tops and shelving is thicker usually both grades are available in most colors from the major manufacturers in the industry the thicker combined with adhesive does add quite a bit of strength to prevent warping over time the thinner is used mainly for cosmetics
Nice tips, quick question, what´s the temperature of that little heat gun? i have a big one with digital thermometer and i would like to try that out. Thank you
That is a glue pot but it's not good for long term. In the end it's just important to make sure the container is closed. Also get some glue thinner for when you get thick glue
Great tips! I'm gonna try the parchment thing on my next glue up. People may complain about the smell of rubber cement, but nobody talks about the happy ringy dingy's after working with it for awhile in a non ventilated room! 🤪😵💫
