Yaesu FT-101 Repair 

Thanks. I watch all your videos. Good stuff.

You're welcome mate.

You are welcome. Sorry about the delay. For some reason I don't always get my comment notifications. Thanks for watching.

Aww. Come on. Sometimes it is fun to jump into the way-back machine. Buddy is a whole lot better at these things, and most things radio, than I am. I watch all his videos too.

Thank you.

Thanks for watching. I found the cold neutralization The Radio Shop uses works very well and is a lot easier on the tubes.

I have been looking into those cameras but money is a concern. I don't monetize any of my videos mostly because I hate ads. Thanks for watching.

Thanks for watching. The older stuff is fun and you feel like you actually did something when you get done and it works.

I can't wait for you to try it. It works just great.

Please contact me at aervblog@gmail.com

Thanks.

Not so much anymore on the crystals. Such a shame.

Still going for $3-400 on EBAY! Mine has the 11 meter crystal in it!

Isnt that high power illegal?

Hi, thanks for watching. I would recommend you get the complete ft-101 manual from foxtango.org or qsl.net. Get the one that us 221 pages long. My experience has shown that no ft101 fits exactly the model number on the front and that manual has most all the models in it so you can find the various mix and match parts across all models. Have fun.

@@AERVBlog Thanks a lot for the info....the more I looked the more I was leaning towards "nothing specific" except the instruction manual.

That is one of those cheap, $20, transistor testers off eBay. They are really handy for transistors, fets and the like and they also give a nice indication of ESR on caps and to a certain extent they will measure coils too. Here is a link to the one I have. I have no affiliation to the seller it was just the first one I came across. Thanks for watching. www.ebay.com/itm/GM328A-PWM-LCD-Display-Diode-Capacitance-Transistor-Tester-ESR-Square-Signal/233785501689?hash=item366eb3a7f9:g:JVgAAOSwusBftHun

@@AERVBlog Thanks! I found something similar on Amazon - sounds very useful. Thanks again.

@@brianwhite6376 welcome

Oh boy. I would first suspect the sound card. It is the second or third from the left as you are looking at it from the front. Depending on your model and year that card will have an IC or transistors. Neither of them is all that robust. Hooking AC to the DC jack could cause a lot of different problems though. It could be a lost voltage off the diode board too or the regulator board took a hit.

Thank you.

How do you know that it is the PB-1184? That is a pretty simple board and it hasn't changed much since the beginning. Check the crystals and all the inductors. What are your symptoms?

Hello. This transceiver mechanized with transistors and valves (mixed) is not so simple to calibrate and obtain "tunning" in all ranges. You have to have a certain experience and preferably put a wattmeter on the RF output to visualize the best result. I personally use an MFJ-949E (and a tinySA) with good results in Brazil, Sao Paulo.

Thanks. Glad you liked it.

No. There are full kits available on ebay for a good price. That sounds like a deal.

@@AERVBlog Thank you for the reply. I think I will pick them both up, should I remove the tubes and pack them separately before I transport them in the car? If the amplifier or radio needs tubes what brand should I look for?

@@davidbrennan5 you don't need to take the tubes out of the 101 to drive it home. These things aren't that fragile thank goodness. They do have 12V capability and since they are pretty old it is best not to mess with the tube sockets any more than necessary. On the it amp might be a good idea. As far as tubes go any matched pair will do fir the 101. I get mine from RF Parts. Be sure to get matched pair so one isn't working harder than the other. The last time I got them they were about $170 for a set. You won't find original Japanese tubes so you will probably have to do the 100pF to 10pF capacitor swap if you can't get the finals to null. Be sure you change all the caps on the regulator board at least. They will give you the most trouble. The big filter can on the chassis next to the regulator board will probably need replaced too. Also be sure to check the resistor wound with wire under the tubes and the 100 ohm cathode resistor. They both burn out. Also the 100pF grid coupling cap to the finals. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

@@AERVBlog thank you.

@@AERVBlog They sold before I could get them. I only have a 120V 15 amp socket. I am thinking I will look for a SB200 or something similar and just not drive it very hard.

Not that I am aware of. Sorry.

Yeah. You would be surprised at the modifications I find that are put in to mask the real problem. Thanks for watching.

No, sorry. I took a look at the schematic though and for starters I would take a careful look at C25, coupling cap to 6GK6 driver tube, C32, coupling cap to both 6KD6 output tubes and C46 output coupling cap. These take the brunt of transmit. I assume you know if both the output tubes and the driver tube are good. Also check all your voltages, especially the high voltage to the tubes. Bad electrolytic caps can cause low voltage if they loose a lot of capacitance or just become open. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.

@@AERVBlog Thanks for the reply I will have a look at those caps, I changed all the diodes and filter caps and most electrolytic's I have 600v on the tubes, I bought a complete set of used tubes from a FTdx 401 ( I have a tube tester) and changed all tubes , what actually happened was on the first tune the power shot up off the scale and then dropped real quick and the tubes were RED inside and just before I turned it off I saw the death flash from one of the tube ( Boom Gone) ha ha there was so much spurious came out it destroyed my rotator controller ( it went off at the same time of tube flash,) and the rotator PCB was burnt from the case to the PCB, ( the SWR meter sits on top of the rotator controller. And it's never been right since then. I have two ftdx560 and have them both together upside-down taking comparison voltage both seem the same around the PA section? any more ideas, thanks

@@chrisreid8604 that red plating almost proves it. The cap between the driver and outputs is leaking and putting DC voltage on the grids of the outputs. You might not be able to test that cap without a high voltage tester. I would suggest you just replace it. This same thing happens to the FT101.

Hi great! I have just ordered from "Just capacitors? all the caps you suggested thanks I will let you know how it goes I'm in Thailand so it will be at least 10 days.

@@AERVBlog Hi, ok got the caps and installed, it's is a lot better, I now get 65w on 10m, 200w on 15m, 90w on 20m, 0w on 40m, and 120w on 80m, I hope it has not had the golden screwdriver treatment, I have another 560 on the bench side by with this one, and doing voltage comparison's all seen very similar, swapped all tubes over with same results, I will swap the tubes again and try to tune the good ft560 as the second one is really good 300w on 20m. all tests on a MFJ 1.5kw dummy load. BTW C25 I ordered the wrong caps for some reason!!! I have a 500PF instead of 100PF do you think that will give me trouble?? I have not actually installed it yet.

Pretty much yes. There are a few changes with all the different versions but the manuals are all available online.

Please contact me at dave@aervblog.com thanks

Sorry. I lost track of things. Building out 9 studios. Lots of work. Contact me at aervblog@gmail.com please.

I would recommend checking all the switching diodes first. They have a bad habit of leaking.

@@AERVBlog Hi thanks for your reply, will try doing so and advise

@@jacquespitot8634 good luck to ya.

Email me at aervblog@gmail.com

Make a dim bulb tester and use that. If there is a problem that will keep the radio from burning up. A 100 watt bulb should do it for receive. You won't be able to transmit with it on the dim bulb but the capacitors should reform enough after a half hour on it.

Well I don't want to point any fing..... sure it was.

Why some of that was done I may never know. Thanks for watching.

Sorry , I am not taking on FT-101 radios any more. Too much other work to do.

What is wrong with your FT-101 EX?

@@AERVBlog ok..i turn My radio on..But it have one resistor bottom with one cover in some type of fiber,..this resistor is turning hot and start smoking and i turn of inmediatly the radio..i don't know why do this...if You know somthing apreciate your help.

@@frankymedina436 I assume you are talking about the resistor under the cover on the bottom where the output tubes are. One, probably both of your output tubes are bad, shorted. You need to check the grid capacitor, C13 80pf I believe, and resistor, R9 56 ohm. That fiber covered resistor is used to sample the AGC and it must be good too.

Thanks for answer me,but no..un bottom Center of the radio,have a little capacito,r is 2.2uf @ 450v..the positive of this capacitor is solder in one pin un the chassis,and connect in one red resistor is cover in some white cover..if have a posibility ti send a photo to You..is the Best form..i have an email

@@frankymedina436 contact me at Aervblog@gmail.com