Full and complete guide to the removal of associated body parts to gain access to the AIS system, Also known as smog plates. Smart Moto smog plates can be bought here:www.ebay.com.au...
Awesome video! Very thorough steps and tips along the way. I bought my block off plates months ago but haven't installed them yet, so this will definitely motivate me...I'm sure it will really help with the job. Thanks a million for this guide!
Thx for your vidz. I was installing a new air filter and used your vid to see how to remove gas tank. Got to say, those bottom 2 tabs you said we're a pain actually was a snap...no pun intended...went from the bottom. I even used your vid installing the Yamaha heated grips. I'll be recommending your video in my post on the FZ-10 FB page I'm on, and all my other FB groups.
Cheers Dean for your feedback , if you have any other suggestions for Videos I could make , please let me know . I believe I'm apart of that group you mentioned.
@@RichieIsf Haha...I was thinking you might be but wanted to put a shout out your way. About the only suggestion I'd have is trying to get just a little more light into those dark areas, however, it looks like some vidz you're on your own. Props to you for taking the time. GOOD JOB!
Great vid, so nice to see someone go to the trouble of filming and explaining. Will certainty give confidence to lots of owners to do more of their own work.
Sean, thanks mate .👍 I’ve been a bit lazy the past 12 months , have since had a baby and she takes most my time . I do have a few vids up my sleeve, however if there was anything you would like, feel free to let me know .
@@RichieIsf Just seeing your year old reply now as I am re watching this video to refresh myself. I am finally installing the resistor to take away the check engine light. My kit didn't include it, I guess I was supposed to leave the AIS dangling inside but I thought my ECU flash would stop that code. Congrats on the baby! I just had one in October, so I know how wrenching on the bike has taken a backseat to raising a little one. I still plan on using some of the other videos you've posted to guide me through some other mods I'm considering. Looking forward to the new videos. Maybe you'll inspire me to do more mods. You definitely had me do a couple myself with your vids, without them, I would have just sent it to the shop and paid a mechanic. So, you saved me money and helped me learn. Great experience. Thanks. Quick question, I ECU flashed my bike, but as I roll on the throttle, there are some serious abrupt steps in power, will a power commander and dyno smooth that out?
@sean , I’d take it back to your tuner and get him to smooth the throttle out . Congrats on your baby bud , hope mum and bub are safe and well . I’ve just welcomed a baby boy to my tribe . But am going to get back to these Vids real soon .
@@RichieIsf Just seeing this now. Happy to hear about your baby boy. I finally installed the resistor for my AIS removal and I used your video as a guide again. It was critically helpful, and as you predicted, that one little clip had me cursing and taking the lords name in vain. But I got it done. I wish you were doing more of these, videos, but I have three boys now, so I get it. You've made some great content that I fully appreciate. Hope your family is doing well. Thanks again brother! Be safe!
Hi, love the video--very clearly presented how to remove fuel tank, air manifold box, etc. Am planning to buy a new MT 10 within a year--would like to see a video on how to change the spark plugs if you feel inclined to make one. Thanks for this though--very helpful.
Thanks Richie. One small tip another video made to address the hole left in the bottom of the air scoop. Was to cut off the grey plastic "nipple" that held the AIS system in place and use it as a plug. Just a small point Otherwise awesome video!
Hi ! I just got an MT10 and i love your videos man! I hope that you're doing fine, thank you very much for taking the time and doing these great tutorials!
How long did this take you? What tools exactly do you recommend? Awesome tutorial. You're probably the only one with a step by step on this!!! Thanks!!!
They put it on a lot of bikes...had a Yamaha 450 enduro dirt bike. My understanding is it limits air/throttle control to match the restrictive exhaust they put on bikes today...it really makes a difference in acceleration when it’s gone, mine built revs faster
in therms of power nothing!! with throttle close it gets air in the exhaust system to get burnt all combustion gas that was in excess with last acceleration! yes these pops and bang many people love to hear! blocking AIS you will have a Pop free ride !
1. If you are using your motorcycle on a closed course (racing, track days, etc.) you will want to remove all unnecessary equipment from your bike for reduced weight and ease of maintenance. 2. To get an accurate Air:Fuel (A/F) ratio when dynoing the bike. The air injection system pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust stream in order to burn off any unused fuel. Unfortunately by doing this the A/F ratio is thrown off by the extra "fresh air" in the exhaust stream. By removing the air injection system you can achieve an accurate A/F ratio. 3. This addition will typically remove the majority of popping on deceleration that can be experienced with un-burnt gasses within the emission charcoal chamber. Note: Proper tuning may be needed and this is general feedback
Very intuitive video Question: The air scoop/snorkel You never removed it with fitting the K&N My one has been removed, but no real explanation to why What are your thought?
If y’all are having issues pulling the tubes out of the tank, just pull them up with the tank. I found that much easier. Just make sure to take them off afterwards or position the tank and tubes where it won’t leak gas.
Yeh, true , however if you happen to lift the tan k to high you run the risk of breaking the connector off the fuel pump. and the other hoses being completely dislodged from where they are meant to be.
Great video..thank you. One note, on my 2017 FZ10 both of the rubber hoses under the tank are vent lines and both go down the side of the bike. No difference. Odd huh.
1. If you are using your motorcycle on a closed course (racing, track days, etc.) you will want to remove all unnecessary equipment from your bike for reduced weight and ease of maintenance. 2. To get an accurate Air:Fuel (A/F) ratio when dynoing the bike. The air injection system pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust stream in order to burn off any unused fuel. Unfortunately by doing this the A/F ratio is thrown off by the extra "fresh air" in the exhaust stream. By removing the air injection system you can achieve an accurate A/F ratio. 3. This addition will typically remove the majority of popping on deceleration that can be experienced with un-burnt gasses within the emission charcoal chamber. Note: Proper tuning may be needed and this is general feedback
Superb video Ritchie, however you don’t wanna be pulling on the AIS plug like you did as the black loop you were levering on is a resistor! If you were to snap it you’d have an EML on your dash, otherwise thanks for the instructions. Just off to fit my K&N. :)
Nice job fella, but you don't wanna be levering out the AIS blanking plug like that! The black bar across the top of the plug is a resistor to fool the system into thinking that it is still connected! Resistors are ceramic devices which will snap in half and you will bring up the MIL light if it got damaged. Otherwise, a nice instruction video.
Hey Richies, enjoying your videos very much... Wondering if you could do an installation run down and review of those mirrors you have on the bar ends? What brand, etc. Are they stable/no vibration? As with most people I can't see a darn thing without shifting my shoulders with the factory mirrors and have been considering the extended brackets for the stock ones but then noticed your mirrors. They are sick looking and may just be what I'm looking for. Can you help a fellow rider and FZ10 owner out? Thanks!
This is really helpful, thanks for making! Couple of questions: why didn't you remove the airbox snorkel, and did you remove the charcoal canister? thanks!
Hi Sanford, thanks for your kind comments. I did consider removing the airbag snorkel, however i saw no point or benefit in doing so , and nope charcoal canister is still in fitted and connected.
bit of a update ... I've removed the airbox snorkel..... even without a tune the difference is very noticeable. i will light touch on that in my next update.!
This is great. Really finding your videos helpful! Have you had your ecu flashed and/or dynotuned? Looking to fit an akro system soon so not entirely sure what exact steps i need to take after installing. Thanks!
Robert Stubbs, Check out my Videos for walk thru for fitting these... I haven’t had the chance to have a tune yet , however my bike appears to be running like a clock....apart from a small flat spot around 3200-3500rpm, but when it clears its throat it’s amazing! 👍
Your videos are quite detailed and very helpful for me. Installed Decat pipes using your video as reference, Thanks. Quick question on this video. I am trying to install Graves AIS block off plates for mine. in this video at 15.30, where did you get that AIS wiring harness from ? Appreciate your response.
Thanks for your positive comments Hari . The wiring harness you ask about is supplied in the kit from Smart Moto. However, its said you can switch it all off when u flash the ECU with the Woolwich tune software.
Thanks @@RichieIsf. I am planning to go for ECU flash after installing AIS block off plates. My FZ10 is running way too rich IMO after decat because I smell lot of gas compared to stock. Do you think AIS block off plates will help for time being other than stopping back fires?
1. If you are using your motorcycle on a closed course (racing, track days, etc.) you will want to remove all unnecessary equipment from your bike for reduced weight and ease of maintenance. 2. To get an accurate Air:Fuel (A/F) ratio when dynoing the bike. The air injection system pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust stream in order to burn off any unused fuel. Unfortunately by doing this the A/F ratio is thrown off by the extra "fresh air" in the exhaust stream. By removing the air injection system you can achieve an accurate A/F ratio. 3. This addition will typically remove the majority of popping on deceleration that can be experienced with un-burnt gasses within the emission charcoal chamber. Note: Proper tuning may be needed and this is general feedback
Hey mate you better release some of that zip tie pressure from the clutch leaver side wiring loom (coming from left handle-bar switch-block) .. It Just looks far too tight, I'm just saying!!
So, what performance difference did the changes make ? p.s. I have a MT10 SP with a link pipe which I think sounds good but probably makes NO difference to the performance ....!?
Wayne Pratt , thanks for your feedback. No “real performance “ upgrade as such. However a quick google search of the forums would suggest when u do flash tune the bike it’s much easier for your tuner to get the mixtures right, which does yield HP , also it eliminates the banging and popping on decel, which is rumored to over time cause damage to the exhaust valves. .
Hey Rich, question about the plug for the pump delete. My Graves plates didn't come with one, and with my exhaust servo delete I put a servo tricker plug in but it had a computer board off of it to tell the computer how far the valve is open according to throttle position. This is just a pump that runs one speed. So is the plug in just sending power back down to the computer to say it's on? No computer tricker module on it, so in theory could you just complete the power circuit by touching the pins together inside the female end of the plug? Does that makes sense what I'm asking? Instead of ordering the plug from smartmoto for $20 plus shipping I could just use a jumper? Thanks
The air injection system pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust stream in order to burn off any unused fuel. Unfortunately by doing this the A/F ratio is thrown off by the extra "fresh air" in the exhaust stream if you were trying to dyno the bike for instance. By removing the air injection system you can achieve an accurate A/F ratio. It will also reduce or stop the popping and from the exhaust on the overrun. Although some people like this!
Hi Rich, what difference if any did removing the AIS make and what about the Airbox inlet restricter/snorkel did it make a noticeable difference, or just more inlet noise ?
Congratulations. If you don't mind how tall are you? Do you look too big for the bike? Many performance bikes are just too small for a 6' guy to be riding.
@@porkchopspapi5757Yes I have seen the Suzuki! It's smaller then the MT-10! MT-10 is a comfortable bike to ride! Seat is hard but bars and pegs are about perfect! On my FZ-09 I put lower bars trying to make more cockpit room! Still too small! MT-10 fits nice!
Richie, I'm looking at replacing my spark plugs. Once the air box is removed, is there anything else needing removal? Finding vidz on this hasn't been great. Thx
1. If you are using your motorcycle on a closed course (racing, track days, etc.) you will want to remove all unnecessary equipment from your bike for reduced weight and ease of maintenance. 2. To get an accurate Air:Fuel (A/F) ratio when dynoing the bike. The air injection system pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust stream in order to burn off any unused fuel. Unfortunately by doing this the A/F ratio is thrown off by the extra "fresh air" in the exhaust stream. By removing the air injection system you can achieve an accurate A/F ratio. 3. This addition will typically remove the majority of popping on deceleration that can be experienced with un-burnt gasses within the emission charcoal chamber. Note: Proper tuning may be needed and this is general feedback
can you please explain why you have removed the AIS and have a different MT 10 after the rim damage? now black wheels with a different registration plate
Thanks for your question... The rim damage/AIS bike is mine , the black bike belongs to a mate who wanted to fit a Link pipe... the fitment is the same no matter the colour of the bike .. 👍
1. If you are using your motorcycle on a closed course (racing, track days, etc.) you will want to remove all unnecessary equipment from your bike for reduced weight and ease of maintenance. 2. To get an accurate Air:Fuel (A/F) ratio when dynoing the bike. The air injection system pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust stream in order to burn off any unused fuel. Unfortunately by doing this the A/F ratio is thrown off by the extra "fresh air" in the exhaust stream. By removing the air injection system you can achieve an accurate A/F ratio. 3. This addition will typically remove the majority of popping on deceleration that can be experienced with un-burnt gasses within the emission charcoal chamber. Note: Proper tuning may be needed and this is general feedback
Justin R. , thanks for your comments mate 👍, sadly no you will need to remove the dozen screws to remove the lid of the air box as the bottom of the box is held to the engine at your throttle bodies by 6 Allen bolts either side of the intake trumpets.
Tim , Thanks for your comments mate, the mirrors are off Ebay mate. Just cheapies for now till i can get some nice Rizomas. Just type in Retro Bar end mirrors and you have plenty to pick from . www.ebay.com.au/itm/OVAL-HANDLE-BAR-END-UNIVERSAL-REAR-VIEW-SIDE-MIRROR-7-8-INCH-MOTORCYCLE-ALLOY-/192211275226?hash=item2cc0af4dda:g:3yMAAOSw~y9ZDANp
Both. Many people will tell you that they are blocked off. But they are only partially blocked off. Yamaha knows better than we do howw to design a rabbit system for street use.
