1. If you are using your motorcycle on a closed course (racing, track days, etc.) you will want to remove all unnecessary equipment from your bike for reduced weight and ease of maintenance. 2. To get an accurate Air:Fuel (A/F) ratio when dynoing the bike. The air injection system pumps fresh air directly into the exhaust stream in order to burn off any unused fuel. Unfortunately by doing this the A/F ratio is thrown off by the extra "fresh air" in the exhaust stream. By removing the air injection system you can achieve an accurate A/F ratio. 3. This addition will typically remove the majority of popping on deceleration that can be experienced with un-burnt gasses within the emission charcoal chamber. Note: Proper tuning may be needed and this is general feedback
Just so you know though when you de-cat the system will run around 15-16 to one which is very lean and lose around 5 HP. You then need to get a tune. Then your MT10 will unleash it's unbelievable full potential (+30-35 Hp) and a smooth throttle. (some are super choppy as they are lean from the factory)
Hi rich ive put r1 titainium headers on my mt10 with a titainium blackwidow limk pipe and then purchased the titainium exhaust can tried to install but the exhaust hangers bolt hole dosent line up correctly its of a couple of mmive noticed when watching you installing the can on the mt-10 that you have two different bracket options the where did you get these from ive managed to find the black bracket but ot the silver one from the foot rest good channel learnt alot from watching you channel keep up the good wrk mate
Can we install R1 caliper on M10? I was thinking we will change the caliper instead of changing just pads. Just swapping pads will make things better for Mt10?
The spongy feeling and lack of brake pressure is because the rubber lines are ballooning installing a higher capacity master cylinder is R1 is just going to fatigue the rubber lines further do yourself a big favor and install steel braided lines and bobs your uncle
Total turn off if Yamaha wont offer these as standard WTF? I dont even see where the SP has em even with Yamaha getting premium money for that model....maybe Ill pick another model to lust after damn
This is the way I've usually done it but I watched a guy do it was super thorough. He took calipers off, cleaned everything with brake clean and then not on lubed the edges of the pads but the pistons and pin also. Not a bad idea, occasionally you do get a stuck pad causing uneven wear.
I just got yesterday my new MT-10, and the brake is soo week compared to my MT-07. I was expecting stronger, or at least same braking effect from the bigger rotors. Is that possible if I change the brake pads will solve my problem somewhat?
Very intuitive video Question: The air scoop/snorkel You never removed it with fitting the K&N My one has been removed, but no real explanation to why What are your thought?
