In this video we replace an o-ring that was making my 2018 R1 Mysteriously leak coolant! This could be catastrophic if not felt with! In this video I show you where I found it and how to repair the issue. Part Number: 93210-27778
Every owner of R1 2015 - 2023 onwards will probably encounter this defect. However, this is not the only problem with this tube. In the video, it was not completely dismantled, so the defect was not detected, which I think will manifest itself in about 40,000 km or later. The pipe breaks off completely from the engine. This is not caused by vibrations, but by a physical phenomenon called "cavitation". This is basically the destruction of the material by changing the pressure of the flowing liquid. Already at 30,000 kilometers, damage to the tube is noticeable.The inner diameter is literally torn out by liquid about 4 mm behind the flange.The phenomenon of cavitation is what makes an ultrasonic cleaner a cleaner. He cannot be stopped. A better solution would probably be to use a metal pipe.
Thanks and YamaYali for video,comment. I have a 2016 R1 28k miles(45km) everytime getting on/off I get strong coolant smell, so I will be ordering all the o rings and tube just in case cuz I will be making a long trip 500mile 800km with a passanger! And don't want to get embarrassed been broken down with my 4 Harley buds we're going with!😅
Thumbs up I am a 2018 Yamaha R1 owner with the same dang problem, your video confirmed for me that is the spot I gotta work on very soon because I noticed the burn coolant smell when I was driving and saw 249 degrees Farenheit engine temperature on my display of the Instrument Panel. I had to quickly drive back home. I am surprised I had that issue since I don't daily drive my R1 but I see the O-Ring does get flat overtime
Thanks buddy . Really appreciate your video and advice . I have a late 2017 R1. And last ride out I smelt that sweet anti freeze burning dripping . It was just a a little . So now I know I can tackle this job . Awesome video and part number . 5 star advice 😎👍👍👍👍
Great video. Same Leak here on my 2015 R1 with ~25k miles. I'm going to try to do this without removing the headers, maybe one of my kids will be able to fit their little hands in there and help seat it.
SUCCESS. I was able to change this O-ring without removing the headers. It was difficult, but with the proper technique, not too bad. remove the 3 bolts on the flange, as well as the one single bolt a few inches down the line. For removal, it was easier access on the left side (shifter side). Using left hand to reach between the headers and pull the tube away from the engine (it's quite flexible with the 4 bolts removed), reached in with a long sharp pointy knife in my right hand and picked on the outside edge of the O-ring to attempt to free it. That was quite difficult since the old O-ring was deformed pretty flat down in that groove. To get the new Oring in, go to the right side of the bike (exhaust side). I couldn't hold the Oring, pull back the flange and seat the Oring all with one hand, far too difficult. What I ended up doing is getting my right hand into position through the front between the headers, and pulled the flange away from the engine using my ring and pinky fingers. My pointer, middle and thumb were waiting to receive the Oring. I then put the Oring around a socket extension (or any thin long thing) and with my left hand, fed it in through the side to my right hand which was in position waiting to grab and seat the O-ring. Not too bad at all, but it did take a lot of trial and error to figure out exactly how to do it, plus multiple attempts, as it is very tight in there. I wear size L or XL gloves, so my hands are not small. Good Luck!
Good video. I got it done without removing headers, but I removed oil cooler. I had the wheel off at the time too, so maybe my accesswas better because of that. Oh it was on FZ10/MT10. Yamaha uses wrong material or o-ring groove is designed improperly for that o-ring. No oring should take this kind of compression set.
Had the same exact leak on my FZ10. Didnt have to remove the headers though. I was able to move the plastic pipe far enough away reached in with some pliers and dropped it right in the o rings recessed area used a mirror to make sure it was seated properly. Tightened it back up and all was good.
Thank you for checking out the channel. I don’t really know the torque settings. I just did it by feel they weren’t too tight, so I just put them back snugged. But I’m sure you can find the torque settings. I just don’t know them offhand. Sorry about that.
@@yamayari8351 I actually had the same question. I have a lil over 30K on my 18 R1S and was having this issue; I followed your video and it fixed the leak problem only I guess I didn't tighten two of the collar nuts enough because when I was washing the bike this past weekend I noticed the collar around the bottom of the outer most exhaust manifold pipe. Was that blue Loctite on your header bolts or was that anti-seize lubricant?
11,000 or so. I would just keep an eye on it. It will have like a baby powder look around the flange and bolts when it’s starts. Thank you for watching.
