Thank You for putting that info out here for newbies to the V Stars like me !!! Last night found one of my solenoids was causing a code #58 on my engine light. Found the line was open to the front cylinder carb solenoid. Was surprised to find stranded wire with every last strand broken. Must have broken one at as time being worked on by previous owner as the float bowl covers screws were so boogered up, I decided to replace all of them with stainless Allen head screws, so when Its my turn to pull them, it will be a snap !!! I had heard the wires break easy, so thought they must be solid wire, not stranded. If someone was very careful from the start, should be ok. My bike had Vance/Hines complete exhaust installed and carbs rejetted by the dealer when purchased new, so I will just plug these babies and figure out how to keep the engine light from flashing after wires are disconnected. A resistor to ground, in line with each wire might work. Thanks again for the video tips !!! Ron, "Yank" in Erie, Pa
You bet, I plan on making more vids, but my garage is packed full now, i can't hardly walk... I'm going to do some more riding and working on bikes as soon as the weather breaks....
Thanks! Confirms what I suspected. I have one solenoid tripping the check engine light on the bike only when I am stuck in traffic in hot weather. Once I stop and the bike cools off the code clears. So I suspect the valve is going bad, but for the most part is OK, and as long as I don't hammer on the bike, which I never do, it will be fine until I repair/replace that valve.
I couldn't tell from the video, but I didn't see the brass washer that goes between the solenoid and the carburetor body. Make sure you don't lose that.
Awesome video bud, I have been running my V-Star 650 07 couple years without them and as far as I can tell the only problem is a check engine but very awesome detail I appreciate the information
You can run a resistor from the 2 solenoid wires to ground and it tricks the computer into getting the correct signal.... I think it's a 1 ohm 10w, resistor, but I'm not sure... check a working solenoids resistance to be sure.... I don't have one at the moment to check.... plus my memory ain't what it used to be.
@@joracer1 So I would use the 2 wires from the original broken off selinods, connect them to a resistor on 1 side and to ground on the other? What would the wires or resistor be connected to on the bike that would "trick" the computer? Sorry, I didn't even know how to ride a motorcycle when I bought mine, now I can clean, rejet, and sync my carbs. So I'm still learning as I go so I apologize for the silly Q. Thank you so much for taking time out to help me with this!
Thanks for this, same thing happened to my vstar 650 and I was wondering if its safe to just soder the wire back on. Much preferable to the $241 replacement of the solenoid my mechanic was suggesting!
Daniel Osterman Dan, remove the solenoid from the carb 1st... but if you use a dremel, grind back the insulation material to expose the brass pin, you can solder the wire back on, you need some skills to do this... but yes i would do it, rather than fork out $200 for a new one... btw if you have aftermarket exhuast without cats you don't need the fuel selonoids . You can bypass the code by wiring a 10 omh 1 watt resistor ( i think that's the right #) to ground from sel wire. Only if running after market ex... i can't remember the resistor codes.. but you can ohm out the solenoid then buy the corresponding resistor #.....ok?
Thanks for your video. Very useful. Do you know how the throttle position sensor affects the carburetor operation? I've got a 650 vstar and I lose power briefly at times and then occasionally for a longer period. I read that it might be a bad TPS but I don't understand how the TPS controls the carburetor. If the throttle flap is open its open and fuel and air are flowing to the cylinder. I thought maybe the TPS might be actuating one of the solenoids and then I lose a carb and am only running on one cylinder. Thanks
The tps only controlls the ign timing... the carb solenoids only actuated for rev limit reached or kill switch activated. If you are dropping one cyl randomly. I'd look at spark plugs. Tps malfunctioning would cause hesitations while accelerating. Tps are easy to check with ohm meter. I doubt it's you trouble.
@@joracer1 Thanks for the reply. Yesterday I rode close to 200 miles and it didn't happen again. When it did happen I was driving through rain and I had also just filled up the tank so maybe it was a moisture issue or a batch of bad gas. I just bought the 2007 vstar in Florida and am on a cross county ride home and it threw the solenoid code which brought me to your video. You may hear from me again...but hopefully not.
If at low rpm like 4000 you might need new spark plugs, if maxed out you may be on the rev limiter...these solenoids have nothing to do with the bike running unless you're on the rev limiter. Try a new set of plugs, check you compression while they are out... they should be at least 110psi to run ok but 130psi..or up....would be better..if all is good there make sure your air filter is in place and not dirty but most likely dirty carbs and clogged jets.. you could try seafoam could work but it could make it worse if the carbs are extremely dirty. It will break all the sludge loose, if that happens the carbs will have to come off to be cleaned... good luck.
Hello, I want to ask you, if you remember if the solenoid has a washer? My problem is that it is losing liquid, I think it is gasoline, and it is leaking from the connection cable. sorry for my english, I'm using a translator. Greetings and thank you.
No I can't but if that leaking there you have a problem... when you remove them be very careful with the wire un hook it and be very gentle with the wiring. These bike are very easy to work on... good luck.
Thanks for sharing. Today I accidentally snapped the solenoid cable. Now I know it can be soldered back together. But how exactly would I test if it works?
After I repaired the wire I hooked it to 12v, i grounded the solenoid the applied 12+ to lead wire the solenoid actuated that showed me it was working.
To test solenoid have it removed from bike, ground to metal casing and 12v to wire the solenoid will click and post the plunger, to test the bikes wiring. Run test light grounded to engine pin test light to solenoid wire unhooked from solenoid, then with the switch on toggle the handle bar kill switch to off the test light should light up....
It's been awhile, but you run the solenoid wire to a resistor that will imitate the solenoid, I don't remember the values..I haven't ridden or worked on a bike in 3 years. If you have good solenoids, just leave 'em they have no performance gains in removing them...
Thanks man, question can i bypass that stupid thing? I broke both of mine when i went to tear down my carbs since they were leaking gas some kind of bad.
ML Yes only if you have no cat exhaust. Like after market pipes.... you need to ohm test the solenoids , then buy the correct resistor then fasten the solenoid wire to the resistor and ground the other end resistor to a bolt somewhere. These need to be soldered If you don't do this you will have a engine code flash... im guessing the resistor is a 1 ohm 10 watt...they're are cheap...so but 2 of everyone may cost .10 cents each. Or get the codes and take them out of a old tv or vcr. Any home spun electrical guy can help you.....
No need to, if you unhook they'll set a engine code.. take one out, ohm test it. Take that reading go but 2 resistors with that reading 1 watt. Wire in where plug is to engine ground. That will keep check engine light out... there's no benefit to bypassing these. I quit working on bikes 3 years ago..
Someone please help.i have a carb.problem.rebuilt/ cleaned carbs, off bike.put them back on.idols fine.give it gas fall on its face. Been working on this for two years. Cant figure it out.so miss rideing this bike! Thank you so so much.
If you cleaned all the jets out then the problem is a few things....1). does the bike have a factory air filter? If not it is lean. K and n type filters sometimes require rejetting... 2) is there a vaccume leak check with a gauge or spray a little starting fluid around the rubber boots between the carbs and head if it speeds up you may have a cracked or leaky seal... 3) after market or stock exhaust with baffles removed will cause a lean condition and will require rejetting. 4) old fuel could cause your problem.... I hope this helps
1johnhumphries Probably not bad. They only operate in 2 conditions with enging running . 1 if you operate the kill switch on the right handle bar grip, or 2 if you hit the rev limiter.... this is to keep raw fuel dumping into the cat system. They're just a safety precaution for the converters that's all.
@@redneckyam4141 exactly, no cats, no worries, i understand why they did this, but these little buggers cause people a lot of trouble, that's why i made the vid. thanks...
@@mapreymaprey1008 could be a few things, dirty air filter, bad floats, clogged dirty carbs causing needle seat to leak fuel, if you leave the choke (enricher) on too long when cold starting it will load up the plugs, bikes are bad to load up plugs then they never clean up, most time if you flood a bike out a couple time its best to stick a new set of plugs in it. Also cranking them a lot in cold months without riding it. That will foul the plugs. Try new spark plugs then You could try sea foam to help clean the carbs Or clean out the carbs and install new needle seats. The newer fi bikes greatly reduce these problems...good luck.
PLEASE Can anyone tell me where these solenoids are connected to the wiring harness? Mine have become disconnected at the harness, but I don't know where that connection is located. THANKS
Pull the tank and air box, trace the wire up from solenoid, there's a clip, be careful not to break the tang, they could be in various locations generally under the air box under the fuel tank.
