Those fasco motors are junk. Icp used the same shit, when they sound like that they are about on their way out. You'll be back to this one Steve. Better stock a new inducer
I believe I have this exact furnace and the exact same problem was happening with it last month. The first tech replaced the inducer motor-because it sounded exactly like the one in this video. Well, I guess “they all do that” because that wasn’t the problem. Turns out it was the gas valve.
I can promise you that the inducer is not supposed to sound like that. Thats why he put his hand on it in the beginning. Not sure why he didnt want to bring it up, but that wasnt the problem he was there for
I like your style of going easy on the customer even though they needed a new ventor assembly, an upgraded collector box, maybe an ignitor and some attention to the 'hard to access' flame sensor.
Great call. I'd have upsold them on that condensate motor as the bearings or "sleeve" bearings are worn out and making "replace me" noises. Either that or a couple of drops of lube oil. Love the label piece of York.
Combustion Blower bearings are toast. Clear condensate collector box has been recalled, Free part under warranty, I've changed 100's of them. My truck was always stocked with them, saved me many drives to supply house.
Our old Sear's furnace and AC from 1983 is still working, but I'm not sure for how much longer. I want to get a new, more efficient model, but, can I find one that will last half as long? Good work. Thank you, John
I think the 13 volts is the board looking for the valve coil when you hooked your meter to it the current is different so the board would not try to fire it
What model york is that! I am in the market for a new furnace in Alaska and I have a installer that is highly recommended and only uses york furnaces, he recommends the TM9V YP9C are the newer Yorks ok.
The ifc knows it’s not hooked up. You need to leave it hooked up and check across the coil when the sequence of operation sends 24v from the board to valve
It has ball bearings. They are already damaged. Sometime in the future it will seize, but it might run a year or two, or maybe not. Oil might buy a little more time, but replacement is the proper repair.
I usually just grab 24v from the circuit board r terminal with some jumper wires and tap on the main power terminal ok the gas valve and if it doesn't open up then i know it's bad
The heating in my house has been broken these days, and there is no fire, but I don’t know if the furnace pressure switch is broken, and the fan motor is not broken
What, $3.16 for gasoline in Massachusetts? We're paying $4.50 here in Arizona. Thanks to the enviro-lunatics who convinced the government we needed to use the California blend.
She's a whiner.. Not sure if you can oil those bearings, they may be sealed. I would have you change that noisy motor. They must hear it through the ductwork....Excellent troubleshooting skills..👍
