Im gonna explain why you dont need an LS3 for you LS swap. Obviously i know the LS3 is a great engine but i explain why it may not be worth it for your LS Swap. LS Swap Parts List: www.jovanidant...
6.0 ls out of a work van: $250, rebuilt the heads and put an ls9 cam in it and boom my Camaro is just as fast as a new one 😃 total cost of my swap was $1400
I just picked up an l92 with 80,000for my 2000 c5 corvette. Same exact motor as the ls3 only difference is it has solid valves, VVT, and different cam. Same block same heads. Picked it up for 3000$.
I don't call 100lbs of difference a "minimal amount" of weight when choosing between aluminum or iron blocks. That drastically changes the handling of pretty much any vehicle. Now if the original engine was iron block, sure the truck motor is the easy choice. When swapping into something like a light Japanese car, that can ruin the balance. This is very application and purpose specific.
Two things not discussed were sound and looks. I went back and forth trying to decide on putting a used Vortec truck engine in my 72 Blazer or a new 350 crate SBC engine with FI putting out 475hp. Ultimately, I decided to go with the SBC because I wanted the old school look and the old school engine rumble. It also comes with a 3 year warranty.
@@blist3274 I got mine on ebay from the hotrodcompany - it's a full turn key solution with a serpentine belt system, AC, chrome, air cleaner, engine part upgrades, etc for $5,100. If you don't want all that you can get base SBC engines from JEGS or Summit Racing for a lot less.
I hv a LS3 swap in my restomod, I dont hv ANY regrets about it. It runs super fast,and very good. Im not a racer. Not saying anything is wrong with the 5.3,or 6.0( I destroyed my buddies that hv those) ,but a great engine without modifications , ita a great choice. I agree 5.3,and 6.0 are also great on a lower budget build, because we all hv budget builds. Haha
Luck lucky. Did u use the existing wire or change the wires ? If hou did which wire brand did you used ? How difficult was it ? Thank you enjoy your ride .
Keep in mind that, although you certainly CAN do something like drop a cam into a 5.3 to equal an LS3 power-wise, the end result is not going to be nearly the same thing. The LS3 will have a MUCH more favorable torque curve, both in terms of the amount of torque AND the availability of that torque throughout the RPM range. The LS3 will probably get better gas mileage as well. And it will be easier and more pleasant to deal with on a daily basis if you are using it for a daily driver.
Nice video - all good points made. Currently I have an LS3 in my 06' GTO (from an 08 Vette), but if I ever decide to build another boost motor, you know I'll be looking at the 4.8 or 5.3 truck blocks.
You actually need to bore it and maybe have to resleeve it.. converting a 6.0 to a 6.2 is pointless and even more expensive than to source a 6.2 at a junk yard or a pull out.. the Heads are $600 each just do that math. At that point just port the stock heads and stroke the 6.0 to something bigger paying all that money to get only 0.2 of a litter is rhe dumbest thing anyone can do
Yeah maybe if you do a l96 it has ls3 head already ........get it bored and use the ls3 internals then it’d be worth it but you got to do say to much .....Going from the cathedral port to square ......injectors are diff to an plugs whole harness name near .......well to go from lq4/lq9
Rodolfo Munoz yeah it’s more than just little mods. Needs cam, timing cover, valley cover valves, valves springs, all Intake sensors and convert the crank from 24 tooth to 58 tooth. 6.0 does not have the knock sensors at the bottoms so there is no way to convert a 6.0 to a legit ls3. It has to be the l96 like you said. He can probably get away with intake and heads only but still no ls3.
If you not running boost and you going n/a just get a 6.2 I did the math from 5.3 build to 5.7 6.0.. you gotta get heads $$ and all it just starts to go over your budget
Good video and I agree with you that for the money the 5.3 can make all the horse power you need compared to an LS3. Your right on the blocks but I would like to add I've been given 4.8's wearing the same heads and if you intend to go through the motor Gen 4 5.3 rotating assemblies bolt right in or you can over bore and use 5.7 pistons. The LM7 5.3 I'm currently building for a C10 truck project is using the stock long block and a TBSS intake with the reworked harness and computer from the stock truck. The most expansive part was the cam but it's good for 55 horse power over stock, add a bushed rocker kit, LS6 valve springs and new LS2 timing chain an uncorked 5.3 (no cats, High flow intake) will make 430 HP all day long and I've built more than a few of these and I have around $2000 in it. Check out Texas Speeds dyno runs on an otherwise a stock 5.3 on RU-vid, I've had similar results and I'm always looking for used parts. Flat top 4.8 pistons in a 5.3 will bump compression just over a half point, cheap horse power. The set I'm using in my current build were given to me. Even the lowly 4.8 will put out plenty of power for any street ride, I put one in an S10 with a BW World Class T5, mid length headers and a used LS1 manifold and LS6 cam, throwaway parts and it was scary fast. You don't need big inches and fancy parts to make LS's run.
Ken Fischmann I’m running a 5.3 4L60 in my 66c10 rat rod/ street rod. 64,000 miles on it new headers and a few others things. I decided to buy a 2002 Tahoe running for $1500 and just pulled and placed it in my c10... with a few modifications just motor mounts really. But I’m around 360-380 hp and it flys, truck is bagged new frame off, but I believe an old build 4.8/5.3 is perfectly fine depending on if it’s your preference and $$. But if it’s a sema build or one your trying to sell them off course LS3/Ls7 will bring more $. Gotta pay to play. I just like my 5.3
Ah... The LS3 block is just over 100 lbs lighter than a comperable iron block. That's actually huge. That's a 10th or a second off on a quarter mile run (as a general rule). To me, that's worth it alone! Add in the improved cooling, and that's a done deal...
That weight is up front so that's less traction, braking and handling especially on the street. Even worse with a couple of heavy cooled turbos up front.
Pulled a 6.2L from a 08 Denali at my local upull for $275 intake to oil pan with front accessories. In my 69 firebird now with Texas speed stage 3 cam, headers, head studs was $850 for cam and vvt delete cost 3 times more than the engine lol
The best part or parts of the ls3 is the intake and large valve heads but you will need a 4" bore min to use them. The low dollar intake with a cable 92tb offsets the price of the heads to make them a high flowing steal for any 6.0 + block. My 418 n/a ls2 runs in the 10's. No turbos. daily driver.
i got a 5.3 truck motor from a farmer for 200 cdn and another 80 if he finds ecu , manifolds and starter and besides the dirty oil in bottom of the pan this motor looks so clean in the undergirdle and under the valve covers that it almost looks pressure washed which im pretty sure it wasnt as theres no hint of water anywhere, just no varnishing and no sludge build up. some guy said to always use the same non synthetic oil and you wont have sludge buildup or bad varnishing. i suspect this farmer bought his oil by the barrel and always used same stuff at regular intervals.
LS3 doesn't suck at all i just recently got a built one you have 3 options. Go carburetored or get a holley terminator for dbc or keep it dbw I definitely don't won't dbw it won't be cheap either way
I don’t know if I agree with this. Depends on the situation and if buying complete with computer, wiring, etc. I bought a used 6.0 truck motor as a long block basically. Did come with coil packs. Paid $250 and that’s a steal in todays world. Friends dad went through the it for me for $500 labor. $200 to his friend at the machine shop for a hone, cam bearing install, and polished crank. $500 parts on his end. New bearings, new rings, new oil pump, timing chain etc. cam, lifters, springs, pushrods, swap oil pan, dip stick and I’m at roughly $2700 in a used iron block budget build. Double that and I can buy a brand new from GM all aluminum 6.2 with better heads and all. Yes $2700 is a lot of money but I’d get a brand new engine with better parts. Going to sell my current engine to a friend and order an ls3 for my swap. Fixing up junkyard stuff nickels and dimes you. If I paid $750-1000 for the donor and went with a comp or other name brand cam it would’ve looked even worse on paper.
I paid $3000 for my ls3 with 80k miles and cam swapped it, then i put it in place of my my stock aluminum block 5.3 in my Silverado, then sold the 5.3 for $1600 so for $1400 plus price of swap it was worth it. Did that 2 years ago and have been looking for a deal like that since
To each there own the LS2 and LS3 have floating connecting rods stock the LS1 does not plus the bore is only 3.89 any real hot rodder wants at least a 4 inch bore l can say if your thinking about a LS1 a LS 5.3 equipped with the same components power output is close or comparable another plus for aluminum block engines is they dissipate heat faster run cooler than a iron block counterparts the aluminum block LS engines can support 650 naturally aspirated horsepower if your going turbos or blower l can see using a iron block because they are stronger but remember that extra strength will cost you 100 pounds in the worst place on you car or truck right over the front tires my LS2 can make a pass at the track in 95 degree heat the temperature never goes above 180 with the hood open in between races a half an hour later it cools down to 130 degrees my old style smallblock chevy would run 200 degrees after a run at track and in between races with hood open a half an hour would cool to 190 degrees plus the L-92 or LS3 heads Kick-Ass and flow like crazy can only be used on engines with a 4 inch or larger bore can't be used on 4.8,5.3,5.7 LS engines the bore is under 4 inch ditch the stock fuel injection on the LS3 get a GM performance single plane intake manifold a 750 or 850 holley double pumper carburetor or holley sniper EFI and a MSD box for a LS no more problem with electronic gas petal bullshit
Many 5.3s have flat top pistons. I believe it's just the aluminium block H.O. versions though, L33, LH6, LC9 etc... Stock LS3 is 430HP, easily 450HP with headers. Takes a bit of work on a 4.8 or 5.3 to get there. A reliable 350-400HP NA on a cheap junkyard engine with a decent cam is realistic. I'm building a budget junkyard L33 with a stock LS3 cam and a carb, just for fun, to see how it works out.
The ls3 came out in 2008 lol my lsx came out of a Junkyard then I rebuilt it and my $200 4l80 maunlal valve body then put a turbo off a 7.3l superduty.... I have way less than $7000 in my whole GTO plus have no computer problems
I think a great solution for an LS NA build is to find a Gen 4 - LY6 bored to 4.065 with a 4" stroke to start with. Comes with LS3 heads. Sky's the limit from there.
The reason LS3 costs more is it came out in 2008. The aluminum block is the "performance"' block and since the Camaro was not being produced these are quite hard to find. On a side note the aluminum block saves about 100 lbs compared to its cast iron brother. Not huge but it is a consideration. In other words at that juncture this was a Corvette only motor. Ask yourself how many Corvettes have found their way to the junk yard compared to how many people would like to get their hands on one of these? Then ask yourself how seriously can you take a guy wearing those ridiculous things in his ears.
I traded a little tattoo work for my LS3 & transmission, truck version...& that was for the full donor vehicle, so I've got the matching differential if I want to use it as well, so basically it didn't cost me anything but a little time & effort...if I'd just paid the guy for it, the whole thing would've cost me $600...if it were going to even approach $7K, I'd have just bought a crate engine...
As I'm an old guy (grew up around first gen Sbc) slowly gathering parts for my Vega,,, so far have extra clean set of 823 casting heads w/rockers I picked up for $600,,,(back in 2018)this year I picked up a 6.2 truck short block (l98) in great shape,($750, according to my local engine builder ,,,just on fence about a efi or carburetor,, was looking at an e-Street or ez-efi idk,,,
With the money you'll spend on a good carb intake and ignition I would suggest you spend a little more on the Holley Terminator system. I don't think you'll regret it at all.
if you have an L98 you have an f-body (camaro,trans am,corvette)old school 350 and it isnt an ls engine. are the headers/manifolds equally spaced or are the center two pipes on the head close together? if you buy an ls buy the entire engine together with wiring harness
NA LS3 with CNC stock heads and a moderate cam makes 650 crank with 1 5/8 headers. Other LS flavors have different pistons with lesser compression. Yes the LS3 costs more but is ready for power where the other engines require work. If you want more power, ultimately you will pay for it.
with the only part being replaced is the cam and the rest modified, it's easy. Again, 650 is moderate. You can get higher gains with more money in NA. I didn't want to replace the rotating assembly and chose to leave it stock. I kept the power at 640-650 crank since I spin the engine to 7k all day at the track.
First of all, thank you for everything you do. Got a 66 ElCamino want to swap LS . Which LS is easier to install. LS 3 electronic pedal and transmission should be easier. I’m not worried about power . Thank you
For a classic car often times its up to preference. Your existing pedal will work with a cable so if your looking to only have to worry about cable length then drive by cable would be good. If you aren't concerned about fabricating the right pedal mount or can find an adapter plate for the LS pedal for your car then drive by wire is good. Either one can be made to work with modification
@@JovaniDanteGriego thank you for responding I really appreciate it. We know there are so many different videos with different ideas. I saw a video that was explaining the difficulty of modifications if you are working from small garage with out the right tools can be difficult. Which is my situation. And Im able to get a complete LS 3 with all the hardware in very good price with only 34 k miles . The existing wire has few problems and some rusty areas around dash instrument. Do u have any recommendations on wire set up . Thanks 🙏
I've been having pretty good luck with the cheap Amazon wiring but I know exactly what should go where and stuff, so if you want something that's going to be exactly what you need hit up lsxspecialties
Ls3 20k miles 3k 4l80 stage 1 2k btr cam lifters etc. Let's say I think 1k that's what I spent oh yea I got my harness built cause this is for a 96 impala 🤷🏾♂️
Great video! Enjoyed the content, I’m looking into a 5.3 vortex for a Porsche swap, my question is, if it’s from a salvage yard, should I rebuild it or run it as is, it has low miles and from a wrecked truck…wasn’t sure if the heads or cam or pistons needed to be replace for precaution.
Those Harbor Freight engine stands sure sag like he’ll. They must be made 3 cyl Dihatsu motors. Buy a L99, L92 block and BUILD an LS3 stroke, don’t waste you dough on all the stock parts that won’t use or don’t want to use, buy a premium block and build away...
Jovani Dante Griego Not if you know where to source the parts. LS3 base car and Truck motors are becoming way more affordable by wreckers if you absolutely have to buy a a whole motor. If you’re the helpless type then it will be more, if you’re a DIY guy then not so much. I could build one hell of an LS3 for $7k
Good luck but chances are none of the modules are going to work well or not like stock after, I know many that have tried this and most of time you'll lose most of your interior module connectivity. I'd love to try it myself one day
@@squidusn71 Exactly mate and it definitely makes wayyyyyyy more sense than buying a brand new 2020 Camaro ingeneral and not to mention that the 480 HP hot cammed LS3 will make more power than the factory LS3 and as well as the factory LT1 anyway.
@@CJColvin yes sir, swaping in a v8 into a car that came with a v6 is not as simple as people think as well. But if you could score a rolling chasis Camaro SS for cheap, then that might be a different story. By all means install an lsx or a ls427. Next spring, I will be putting my brand new LS3 480hp crate into my 69 Camaro that I bought as a rolling chassis. I paid 5k dollars only for the engine, I say only because theyre about almost 8k now lol. I didn't want to buy it at the time because I wasn't ready for an engine but I couldn't pass it up. A tremec TKO 600 5speed will be behind it.
I have a 86 C10 with the original 305 still working but smoking. I want to a ls swap with a ls1 from a corvette. I have not been able to locate an engine with decent miles for a decent price. I am basically building for my enjoyment. I have owned a couple of vettes and I like the stock hp. I have a 700R4 transmission but I will install a 4L80.
Could I recommend a 5.3 or 6.0 truck engine? They have more torque and less top end but with a good cam and heads will perform just as much or better than an ls1
I paid $3000 for my ls3 with only 40 k miles and then sold my aluminum 5.3 for $1600 so for $1400 plus price of truck cam I couldn’t tune it down. Now I’m looking for another low miles LS3 for my 68 camaro and will not pay more than $3500
they are the same block as the Aluminum 5.7 LS1 bore is just different. There is 2 types of 5.3s the LM7 which is a Iron Block and the L33 which is Aluminum. I prefer the iron block, doesnt warp like aluminum and takes a better beating. No one pays thousands for a truck engine. junkyards sell those for 300 to 600 dollars and 1000 for a 6.0 Lq9. the only reason truck engine isnt worth it to someone is if you are dropping it into your 98 Firebird cause you have to Buy the Trans am K member, LS1 Fbody relocator accessories like the alternator and power steering pump, Fbody LS1 Oil pan. and most cases LS1 Intake. Then you have to change the Injectors to Car injectors or buy adapters for the truck ones. Then the Biggest hurtle is the Harness, you Have to use a Fbody harness from a v8 trans am or camaro cause the truck harness is not remotely close for set up and it doesnt have the 3 dash connectors going into the passenger side firewall into the kickpanel, C210 C220, C230. Fbody LS harnesses are 275 to 300 bucks easily. so there is a few things you have to do to make it work but its still worth it to me cause i already bought all the stuff needed.
Ive got a 88 obs single cab silverado that i want to bring back to daily driver status. What engine would be the best mix of fuel economy and power? A stock ls3 6.2, or a 5.3 with a single turbo? I figure both choices would get close to the same power in the end, but which one would use less gas to get there?
What inline fuel pumps do you suggest for cars that in -tank fuel pumps are not offered? Thinking mild build to stock, drive-ability being the factor. Being broke down on side of the road because of fuel pump is no bueno.
I have a 1981 Cadillac coupe deville with the 4.1 v6 with a bad transmission. It will coast around $3,300 to get trans rebuilt, along with the other engine problems, let's say around $5,500 to get it rolling again. What options do i have at this price point finding a reliable, or fully rebuilt complete setup? Thanks!
It's really just preference. On the cheaper end a lq4 is a great base. But if you had the money an ls2 will probably fit better with stock intake and accessories
Honestly an upgraded truck motor would be amazing, but if you have the money get an ls. The ls is a better base performance system, as far as numbers. With big wheels, just make sure you time the transmission well and have higher rear end gears like maybe 3.73 4.10 gears will be a little high, but real good to handle the added weight of the wheels. Just remember the higher the gear ratio, the better low end torque feel, but lower gas mileage.
I have a 2013 2wd chevy tahoe ls with 5.3L engine and 6l80 trans. I previously had a 1995 gmc pickup with 5.7L and 4-speed auto with overdrive. The 5.3L is gutless compared with the 5.7L, the engine seems to have little torque and struggles with hills unlike the 5.7L which had no trouble. Any suggestions to fix this problem, I don't really want to swap the engine to get more torque?
First check what rear end gears you have. That plays a major role in the "feel". Next find yourself a local Dyno shop or tuner and have them lower or eliminate torque management and give it a tune.
I’m not gonna say the LS3 sucks they are light weight and can be built up as long as you don’t want more than 800hp. But to his point on the 4.8&5.3 take a look at Ruby, the junk yard vette Cleetus McFarland owns. She makes extremely consistent 8sec 1/4 mile passes on a stock bottom end 5.3. Yeah she has heads and a cam and a decently sized single turbo but the bottom end keeps it all together, keep in mind that bottom end is holding 1300hp at the tire.
Dont quote my numbers but i think an aluminum block LS saves you close to 100Lbs probly another 35 for aluminum heads than an all iron block and head LS, maybe another 25 over and above a n olsschool SBC. 135+ lbs off the front of your car is going to make a significant difference, in acceleration and even more difference in handling. Shaving that much weight on front of any car i assume would be like swapping in a bigger antisway bar, there just will not be that extra weight swaying your car around corners. But this only matters to some people, even then situationally. When i lived in the country around pittsburgh with all those curvy winding roads , i wanted the best handling car i could get so i didnt have to drive 25-40 mph all the way home. Versus living in a square grid layed out city , handling wasnt so much of a big deal.
Hi Jovani, I ran across your vid while looking into LS engine topics. I have a 78 trans-am with an olds 403 that I'm working on getting to run again. I found out that the olds 403 is a pretty lack luster engine and have been thinking of doing an LS swap in the future. I thought that LS3 would be something to shoot for until I saw your vid. I would like to use the car as a daily driver but what to have the power if I need it. Any recommendations on which LS I should look to instead of the LS3?
It really depends on budget. Which is the key point I was trying to make here. Alot of people just getting into this will go ask a shop or builder what they should go with and many times they'll want you to spend 7 or 8k on an LS3 because it makes the power out of the box. But you have to factor in everything else needed for the swap, you'll end up spending 12k for 400hp. The ls1 is a damn good engine for the price and since your short on hood clearance will come with the shorter intake and accessories you need.
LS2/6 is also a good choice. If you go vortec route just know youll run into hood clearance issues but you can always buy a nice FAST intake to fix that
Engine with most starting horsepower for around $600 I would like to add Fuel Pump Fuel Rail Fuel Injectors Exhaust Manifold Headers Cam Shaft ECU 2 very small turbos Innercooler Would it produce 500 horsepower at the wheel?
I never looked at it the way you explained it, buy a truck engine for 1600 or so and throw 6000 at it and you would have a way faster engine than an LS3. Plus you can stroke these engines as well, 5.3 can go out to 383 and 6.0 can go to about 408 maybe even larger without being sleeved.
Can you please respond how much power can one realistically look to get out of a 6.7L 408 lq9 NA? I had my mind completely set on getting an LS3 as well, but the information you broke down in this video definitely changed my mind and save me thousands thank you.
So the LS3 was my original go to but too expensive so my thinking is a L94 which is the truck equivalent with flex fuel, and putting different cams/heads to match the LS3? Am I missing anything?
Soooo 7K for 2012 grand sport LS3 (53k miles and 3K stage 2 4L80E $950 for the stall converter for my 72 cutlass really didn't know any better I was told LS3 out a vette was the way to go
I have a question if you can help me please I take my car to a workshop to have the ls3 hot cam swap done but now I am doubting that the engine is new and that I am the one I order, how can I know that if you can help me thanks
With these ls engines(ls1-6)and vortec truck engines,(4.8,5.3,6.0) can they hook up to the hydramatic transmissions in older classic/retro Chevrolets( and other gm cars) or would you have to keep them with the gearboxes they come with(4l60,4l80,6l80)
They can 100% hook up to any check transmission. Some like the th350 and 400 require a crank spacer adapter, but I myself am running a sm465 behind a 5.3 . Also ALOT of big power guys run th400s and power glides. The Chevy bellhousing pattern is the same minus 1 bolt hole (5/6 bolts)
@@billy300m You can get more power! I would find a 2nd block and build it instead of the original! Your original is a matching numbers! 1969 -1971 were some super good muscle car years!
Winston Hayes it had a small block in it when I bought it the 454 is not the original. I bought the 454 and put a mild cam in it so far and planed to take it to a motor shop to get more power out of it I don’t know a lot about it or what to do to the motor
Nice, messy garage; sure that you know where everything is-ha ha! Thanks for the LS explanations. I have a 1970 Chevelle and will be replacing the 307 (which ran like a champ in its day) with a more modern setup. Now that I've learned that an LS3 has an electric throttle body, I will avoid that because I want to retain as much stock performance as I can; is it correct to say that the LS1 and LS2 still use a conventional throttle cable?
I’m rebuilding my 07’ 4.2L RWD Chevy trailblazer on a budget.., I need to kno wht truck engine, year, make and model I should be looking for @theJunkyard... I want 450hp and I need another trans cause my 4L60 has been changed twice already... I hear the 4L80 is wht I should be using... thoughts? Advice pls, anyone
Great video, very informative. One problem though is that we don't have the truck motors here in Australia. I, starting a build on a 76 C20 and was thinking of using an LS2, unless you have a better option?
the 6ltr l77 l98 l76 are by far the best bang for buck, why would anyone spend 2 or 3 k on a ls1 or 5.3 motor that is 20 plus years old, with dated at best ecu tech My choice 100 percent is the 6ltr
All makes sense but a lot to take in, trying to figure out whats best for my 54 chevy 3100 don't need HP just want to cruse a 70mph and be reliable help help, how do I get to see your vid on your truck
Its not the ability to buy 20 motors, its how long will the motor you purchased last? Doesn’t make sense to buy motors then throw money at them b/c they are of lesser quality. Sometimes seeing the purchase of a motor is like an investment, what type of return are you expecting has a-lot to do with the parts you purchase and the motor you buy!
The iron block motors have been proven to outlast aluminum block engines. And yes when you can get a iron block for 25% of the cost of an ls3 you can buy 4 motors if something were to go wrong.
I found an ls3 shortblock for $1500 I want to swap into my Silverado. Currently has a built 4.8 (cam fbo and built 4l80e with stall) will the 50lbs Delphi injectors I have swap over to the ls3 ?
id love to hear your thoughts of the truck variants of these engines, which i believe is the same heads crank and rods, almost the same pistons, different cam manifolds accessories and oil pan. ive seen them go for muuch lower prices then the actual ls3
No trucks came with LS3's They are very different 6.2 430HP. It's a corvette engine starting in 2008 and has high performance block, large intake valves, heads,Intake manifold, crank and more. Good step up from the ls2. N/A stock bottom end plus high compression pistons for racing(15:1)is capable of 800HP @ 8000+RPM.
I have a 2020 Chevy Colorado WT two wheel drive with the little four banger. I'm looking to LS swap it. Do you know of any links that might help me with this swap? This will be my first LS Swap... I know big bite for a guppy. Thanks
Hello Javani, thank you for being honest. Love the video. I have a 2009 Colorado with a 2.9 with a 5 speed. I would like to know what is your opinion on what motor to install with my 5 speed transmission? Thank you in advance. Joe.
I have an 08 canyon, it's got an LS3 427 stroker, I've swapped several S10s, I've swapped 3 colorados and then my personal Canyon. I'd say the easiest motor to swap with it is the 5.3, the Colorados came with them from the factory, so it's just about no customization, and no need for a new or different tranny. The 6.0 will need minor fabrication and whether the application is a daily or for performance, the tranny will hold up to bolt on upgraded LS engines. If the engine is built for performance, you're gonna have to get a better tranny. The Colorados are very very easy to swap, easier than the S10s even tho I've done very many, the Colorados are just so open and very minor if needed fabrication and any part needed can be bought or even made. Best of luck with your swap!
