YOU GUYS asked me to try this... so I did 

I think you mean verb.

@@swizzler8053 he has lots of eyes on his channel and he is providing a point into the sample size and also instructions on how to potentially fix an issue. I for one applaud this type of content and if it saves me an unnecessary RMA or buying unneeded cooking parts, I’m down.

@@swizzler8053 who is he copying? Whenever there is a break in information like this, all of the tech channels cover it. Stop crying

Agreed. I love Jay's hack and slash science.

@@mikerzisu9508 In this case he should have copied. He got it all wrong, the cooler makes no difference as its the ilm.

you gotta be pretty stupid to not understand the original article

why do you care to comment on it?

@@nb081199 im confused on your question. I comment on videos because I have comments to make on videos

@@nb081199 there’s a comment section for a reason, no?

@@nb081199 why do youuu care to comment on this?

I think that domed is a good word and I also think that convex is not as funny as the word domed. I care to comment on your comment, Mr. Greer - or should I say, 'Dick'?

Honestly this channels vids are too long.

what part is kingpin? the thermal paste?

@@suyashsingh9865 yes sir.

@@patty109109 no they are not

Havent tried the washer mod. I do have the grizzley bracket and it dropped my temps insanely, 10 to 15, per core.. im running 5.5 p 4.3 e 7300cl30 , 3090 strix all under a mora 420.

me to

wtf's an ILM

@@peter3337 the latching mechanism.

Ya i think he completely missed the point, unless I'm confused. The cpu is higher and now rectangle and the retention cover latches on the same spots at the center of the sides of the cpu. That's ok for a square but not so much rectangle. The washers makes the Retention top higher so it doesn't push so hard on the sides of the cpu, bending it basically

@@strongislandx ppl l lol

@@peter3337 Industrial Light & Magic 😊

It is best not to vomit what others have written without experience to back it up. I never used a figure 8 pattern, and always got my heatsinks and processors to "stick."

@@jong2359 its best not to be a dick online and assume others don't have experience.

Machinist by trade here and I agree with sirjizzalot. It is best to lap in a figure 8 pattern and to periodically rotate the object being lapped as fingertips tend to apply more pressure to one corner than to others. This has a balancing out effect and creates greater precision of the of the overall lapping process. Great video btw, doing a 12th gen build at the moment using a noctua nh-u12a chromax on a 12600k

Your cooler manufacturer must have taken the z height into account, just like noctua's mounting mechanism. Thus, good thermals

which is exactly why Igor recommended a solid steel backplate like that alphacool prototype

Go watch Buildzoids vid. He explains it very well, in his own way.

The type of backplate you are using on your aio may make a difference too

Mine is so tight that I was affraid that cpu or motherboard will break if I will lock it, thankfully nothing break but the pressure on cpu is huuugeeee.... MB is gigabate aorus z690 ud ddr4. Im thinking about that mod when i will be changing to new cooling in a few days

I think the stability of the MB and the Socket is make a huge difference from cheap to high end. Igor says that too

@@seriousplace7756 Anandtech used GIGABYTE Z690 Aorus Master and it bent like crazy :(

@@1starfish11 bro do you know any mobo which is not too tight and works well?

called direct die mount. pretty freaking good, used to do it a lot on earlier gen CPU, untill some of them got soldered (swapped to AMD after that). some people even remove IHS just to put some liquid metal between die and IHS, also helps a lot on the thermals, without running the risk of destroying the die when mounting the AiO.

i have a h00i cappelix with the retrofit kit and my temps are max 65 even on stress test

Also don't forget a 3090ti! My 3090 aorus extreme has AIO surely transfers heat from gpu to the room creating a crack oven

Right, Igor has mentioned, that boards with a strong metallic backplate - as Jayz had used - seems not beeing effected.

Exactly why I bought an Asus board. My cooler doesn't yet have a conversion kit, but the Asus mobo comes with LGA 1200 mounting holes, and my cooler uses plastic spacers instead of standoffs. So I just didn't use the spacers and was able to screw it down tight onto my 12600k.

I'm also using the stock cooler

mind sharing the washer thickness that you used..?

@@fist003 I've yet to try it myself but I've ordered nylon 1mm M4 washers based on what the article said. I'm going to try mounting the cooler backplate without the CPU first and compare the bending before and after the CPU is inserted.

Did you fid a solution? I am having the same experience with my 12700KF (not overclocked) in Cinebench. 2 of the cores (cores 2 and 4) sky rocketing straight to 100 celcius, and as a result thermal throttle. The E cores running between 81 and 83C, with the P cores lowest being 87C and maxing at 100C. The cooler I am using is the MSI MAG CoreLiquid 240R with LGA 1700 mounting kit. Tried reseating and reapplying thermal paste with no improved result. Short of trying a different cooler, not sure what else to try. Would expect better cooling even from a 240 AIO.

@@PeteyPete173 I've built another 12900K system (for someone else) & seen the exact same behavior. I tried the washer workaround on my own system and it made no difference. On the 2nd system I didn't see any of the socket bending but the CPU still thermal throttles instantly under Cinebench R23 multi-core. The scores are good though, as the CPU seems to immediately clock down slightly to find its equilibrium. I also built a 12700K system but didn't see this issue. That CPU maxxed at around 90 deg C under same load. My best guess so far is that this issue a combination of silicon lottery and motherboard defaults/settings for 12th gen. With the MSI board it asks for the type of CPU cooling system being used on first entry to the BIOS, and if you select water cooling it maxes power delivery out. The CPU then draws huge amounts of power once under full load until it clocks back slightly to prevent thermal throttling.

@@DamianPEdwards Interesting findings. I have a Gigabyte board and it didn't ask me what cooling I would be using. Under normal use the temps are relatively in check, haven't really put it to the test with any sort of demanding game yet. I'm not a big gamer, but it's nice to have the power there when needed. I may end up trying the suggestion Igor's Lab mentioned, mounting all bracketry before installing the CPU, as the article mentioned it could be an issue in regards to the rigidity of the board and the cooler brackets helping to stop any flex.

Or you know, you don't and it makes almost no difference to temps.

True. But it could be useful for anyone lapping any sort of heat sink. Good thermal paste and ever more efficient cpus help mitigate the effects of them not being perfectly flat. And if you’re going to lap the cpu you should do the same to the heat sink. For many people including myself lapping the surfaces isn’t necessary. But if someone wants to give it a try this could be useful so more problems aren’t created.

Or a figure 8 pattern

@@jaceyrector9320 I've been wondering how many people actually see a temp issue with their Intel CPUs that they would need to consider doing much to them. I'm running a 10900k with a Corsair H100i, and I literally just pulled everything out of the boxes and put them in my system. I've never messed with after market thermal paste and the highest I've ever seen my CPU temps get is the high 70s, maybe 80 at a spike. My old 9590fx AMD CPU with the same model of cooler used to get 85c+ easily, and it had half the cores with the same clock speeds. I guess maybe if I was into over clocking I might need to do something, but as I sit now with the base clocks and base boosting clocks everything runs cool in my 7 year old NZXT Phantom case. I even have a 3090 sitting in the case air cooling and it peaks at about 80c when I am putting a full load on it, so the air in the case is warm and goes up through my CPU rad, but the temps still never get high.

@@xero6912 Ya my pc is “stock”. I’ve never bothered lapping a CPU. Even back in the single core days when I had an alcohol cooled monster. Back then 70° would damage a cpu over time. But on my pc now I’ve never seen a need to overclock. My computer is a tool so I can work on my other hobbies. Gaming, 3D cad, etc. I assume I’m similar to the average pc user and My pc is more than enough without doing anything to it. But for some the hobby is getting the most you can out of a pc. And if that’s the case you do anything you can to eek out a bit of performance.

That will be interesting to see on Intel's next socket design if they use a 4 point pressure point mounting system. Or if later CPUs get bigger but they make it wider so it is a square again.

Yep Artic Freezer Liquid II 420mm AIO.

Crazy it still runs hot with a 420. I was surprised that mine ran hot with a 360.

I wonder if liquid metal between the IHS and cold plate would've helped or hurt your temps.

@@pronewbofficial hard to say, the chip and cooler tended to vacuum seal together, it could get really difficult to pry the CPU off if you pressed it against the cold plate when it was out of the socket. My bet is it wouldn't have any significant effect, or would just make it worse. One of the installations I did this way actually cold vacuum welded together because of how perfectly flat it was. It was installed for a long time and at some point part of the IHS copper and the cold plate copper just fused together lol. Normally this would never happen since copper oxidizes super fast, but we think the friction of the 2 surfaces managed to disrupt enough oxide for it to be a non issue. We also basically did a finishing lap on both immediately before applying them together, so it only had seconds exposed to the air before getting installed for several years. It's a LOT of work though for very little gain at this point. Delidding the CPU and designing a cooling block that goes directly on die gives you far greater gains for less overall worki

We're also talking 150w less TDP. I had an I7-3770k that ran for 9 years @4.3GHz on stock voltage with a Corsair H100. Never got above 65C at full load. I never touched the IHS. 77w vs 125w TDP and drawing far less current.

@@dragonthc I had a 4770 and I just stuck a tower cooler on it, nothing posh just big 'n' cheap with I think 5 or 6 pipes in a cheap case and that never went above 70C. Times have changed I suppose, Intel cranking up the electrons for performance more and more.

@@dragonthc Actually, at these OC levels you could expect 300w+ from the quad cores and up to 200-250w easily from the high end dual cores. Power levels were basically the same as today with intel's high power draw on the last few gens. Remember, we're talking about a bump of almost 2ghz and significant voltage increases from baseline. Like from 1.05-1.2v to as much as 1.45v, so more volts and more amps both (as a result of the clocks). The situation was similar on my 2600k at 4.7ghz, I had a VRM designed for 400w+ just to hit that as a daily stable OC under water. This was before intel started using thermal paste under the IHS, I basically stopped OCing around then because I wasn't comfortable with delidding at the time, and the boost speeds of the 4790k were good enough for the time. With my Q9650 at 4.7ghz daily driving, and crossfire HD5870s also overclocked, I actually killed a 1050w Enermax PSU (Revolution 85+, came highly rated by jonnyguru himself), should have gone with the 1250w model lol. This was back when I ran 6 hard drives, tons of LED strips, 2 pumps @ 30w each, and 15 fans, so even with only ~900w going to the 2 GPUs and CPU, that only left 150w of overhead for all of that. You do the math xD

The cold plates on most aio are far larger than the entire cpu. The fin stack and good contact has more of an effect in cooling than just cold plate size.