I can't believe my lr44 bracket Design made it into one of your videos. This was my first ever 3d model design and i know it's not perfect, but seeing this made my day! Btw: i later found out that there are PR44 cells, that are the same form factor but higher capacity. They are usually marketed as "hearing aid batteries"
its a good bracket and why I used it. On your first go you nailed it works a treat as you can see. 👌 Glad to see you living the content also 👍 good to know the PR44 works also in there, will take a look.
Sure is... if you trim out the internal skeleton like I did here then you can get it lighter still. www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/movfei/stock_look_but_under_the_bonnet_things_have/?context=3
However, not everyone likes the shape of the GPW/GPX Superlight. Sometimes, considering a cheaper option over the "flagship" is better. It just sucks ass that there's no lightweight G305 yet, or if there even was in the first place.
You might want to check ur sensor height. because it does mess with DPI and LOD no matter how you look at it. You can do all the mods you want but if you mess with your sensitivity, you’re throwing your “competitive edge” out the window. If you do have the base perfected, it would be something I would consider buying. But I have yet to find a someone who offers a custom bottom with the correct sensor height positioning.
@@Beardedbob thats fair. mousepad is tiger esports eba. but you need to make sure sensor height is at the specs of the sensor or else it will track differently on terms of dpi. i am wanting to mod the bottom shell of mine but know this is a factor. so will probably just be doing a cover and lr44 battery mod. im scared to mess with sensor height.
@@GIFTOFGVME If the base is not working for you, add some layers of double sided tape on the skates the side that glues onto the mouse, sand down the base, or revert the mod. Nothing to be scared of!
Yep the HERO sensor is extremely sensitive to things like height as is. I wouldn't do the mod on something like this. Much better with something like Razer which lets you adjust LOD.
For people looking for a super budget version of the Logitech g305 (and the like) "inland" aka Microcenter's inhouse off brand in the US has a clone of the 305 that is corded, lacks the side buttons, has the RGB strip and is only $5-10 USD. "Inland M-54 RGB Esport Gaming Mouse" only 7.99 at my local shop lol. Great little chassis to start with if your looking for again a Super budget way to get into modding mice or what have you.
I got one for my kids to drag around, and its held up great for the price. For someone afraid to tinker for the first time on their more expensive version its a great little device to not worry about breaking as you learn.
im confused by this. you swapped the battery and the bottom case. thats all? i swapped my AA for a lr44 and removed the top cover and im on 70g. if i then swapped the bottom case like you that should be 65g? how did you get it to 58g? im confused af here
Hi Bob, have you ever looked at weight reducing/moddinh a pwnage ultra custom sym, as i’ve started thinking about it since the balance feels rly off which in turn leads to me slightly lifting the mouse, many thanks.
@@Beardedbob definitely worth looking at, the balancing at least for me coming from an s2, feels horrible, if you end up doing it itll be a life saver for me, feels like it stops tracking sometimes because of it.
3d printing always give you some added flex :-p here's one with a little less flex www.reddit.com/r/MouseReview/comments/movfei/stock_look_but_under_the_bonnet_things_have/?context=3
Hey. which connector is used for the battery I don't want to splice into the original one since I would like to give the old battery thing to my friend for his mouse. he broke one of the springs. so if I can know the connector I can make use of how to do it
We will be doing as soon as it arrives... 10 days shipping from Razer so i'm looking to so it Wednesday the 12th May on www.twitch.tv/beardedbob and I'll put the edited version on YT. The date/time will be confirmed on the YT Community tab and on Twitter twitter.com/Beardedb0b
Hello Sir. Could you mod pwnage symmetrical/xenics gx air wireless/zet prime z for weight reduction? You are the only one who can this!!! Stock have 80+- gramm, maybe you can get 70-?)
@@franciscojavierc.1023 A couple people ran the G305 on 4.2V without damage for at least a year at this point. At 4.5V it malfunctions though. So yeah 3V seems pretty good and safe. It's difficult to say for certain because most of the parts are customised top secret stuff, no datasheets, not even for things as trivial as regulators. But if you want to be on the super safe side where nothing goes out of usual operating conditions with a stock battery, that would be with up to 2V. For myself, thinking of going the charge cradle route or something like that, or maybe a charge coil, custom charge circuitry from a powerbank running like a 5V UPS. I like thing so it can top up the mouse even when everything is powered off. Something like ML2032 by Maxell in the mouse itself, that'll top off at maybe 3.2V if you start pushing it. If i find a way to scale wireless power up to pad size at like a tiny fraction of a milliamp then i don't need the UPS like thing and i don't need a battery in the mouse either, just a capacitor - i don't anticipate that i'll reach anywhere near 2.4 GHz so it shouldn't interfere with wireless communication with the mouse. I just thought of this so i might just try something soonish.
i love this shape and b100 shape as well, its perfect, what mice we have today with these shapes?? i looked up for the zaopin z1 pro but it seems to be smaller...
Can I just print out the left click cover that your finger pressed when you click? I have a hard click and all my mice breaks where they bend so just need to be able to replace the bit that breaks
Tbh a bit to late, wireless lightweight mouses are way more common nowadays and this mod is more than 2 years old. Still fun to try and maybe for the shape people will still do it I had it and it was fine but the quality of the print will never be as good as a plastic molded one.
I've been testing 1.5v LR44 and 675 and so far haven't had issues with these not being able to power it. They are different brands which could impact it if they can't provide enough v
Creator of the part here. Yes you loop it back through the second hole on the same side. I recommend extending the original wires and stripping a good length of it, to make this easier to loop. You can then twist the to ends together to secure it and cut of excess wire.
John bossing out the help also 👍.... I used a drill to open the holes a bit as the 3d print pla was blocking it if you are having issues poling it through.
Check out Voxelab. They are Ender3v2 clones, but made by FlashForge. Really good printers for the price. will get more bang for your buck and save over $100 vs ender 3v2. that means more money for filament
I assembled a shit printer for like $120 5 years ago, it's a Geeetech i3 wood-kit version. It's a lot of trouble mechanically but in a pinch it'll print something like this just fine; that being said i chose it back then for its comparatively good electrical safety, other cheap kits e.g. by Anet were nicer mechanically but entirely catastrophic in the safety department; and the only cheap ones left now are CTC kits for $100 which just aren't good in any possible regard, though if you have your wits about you, you can make any piece of junk do adequate prints. The shittier printer you get, the more of an involved hobby it becomes, and things don't always run smoothly with nicer kit either. But one of the reasons i got mine was because it has true bootloader, firmware source published, so it's set up as a development platform from the get go, to go ahead and learn and make it into something decent. Cheapest not entirely junk might just be Kingroon KP3 which is more in the $150 order of magnitude. Though maybe something else came along since, it's been a while. A kilogram spool of filament runs you maybe $20, depends, nicer brands are around $30, some junk for throwaway tests might be $12. All replacement parts are about $1-$5 individually if you don't mind a lengthy disassembly/assembly process, so it never becomes particularly expensive, as long as your printer uses mostly standard parts. Except if electronics gives up, that's a little pricey unless you're good at SMD soldering. You buy a small spool of Teflon tubing to replace the lining occasionally, that's a couple bucks, and nozzles are 5 per dollar plus shipping, and you need an average of one nozzle per spool, new $10 belts after 3-5 years, occasionally a new $2 fan, new $3 heater or $1 thermistor eventually after some years, these sorts of things, nothing offensive. Cheap hobby if you want it to be cheap, or you can make expensive, your choice :D People with low fault tolerance find it frustrating and give up though, because every machine needs repair eventually, and it's often not immediately obvious what's wrong.
Why wouldn't logitech just release a superlight g305 :( its the mouse I have the best aim with, and I've tried everything, g pro wireless, razer viper, model o.
ive always been confused, do you put the wires through holes on the side of that lr44/a675 holder and put them on the walls of it?? then the battery gives out pos and neg. how do you know which way to put battery. wont the battery make bad connection. if anyone has good high quality photos of just the battery holder with wires in and with battery that would be extremely appreciated.
@@Beardedbob thanks man!!, ive done my mod with all of these files but with a better back cover, without cover its 62g, with cover its 66g, i switch depending on game and grip stiple (ie. fps games ill fingertip, minecraft ill use cover and claw. it would be lighter but ive put griptapes on sides and clicks. im thinking of buying all neccesarry stuff to 3d print in carbon fibre nylon. would be cool for a mouse. Cheers!
Why 40 lr44 are 7€ and 6 amazon basics lr44 are 5 euros, and 10 duracell are 8 euros, what im gonna buy now? 40 batteries for 7 euros are a scam or what?
All ready done 2 :-) here they are 49g Logitech G Pro Superlight with customisation ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Sr1tpejHCgQ.html 50g Logitech G Pro Superlight - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-j-HyZ-AXyVU.html
yo i have a viper mini..i needed to ask something , can i break the rgb , side buttons and dpi button and will the mouse still work fine?/cus i need less wieght and i never use dpi , side buttons also fuk rgb .
The video you want and will answer your questions. Its a Razer Viper Mini Weight Reduction one. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ymWyytpua3c.html
@@Beardedbob yes or a nodded superlight version of the g502 lightspeed? Loving my g502 lightspeed but was looking to see if there's any good alternatives to shed some grams :) keep up the great work!
I have a titan g mini wireless that I managed to get down to 82g but I'm considering doing a cell battery mod, not sure how hard that would be though and I could get rid of the battery tray too
you can always send it over for me to mod shop.beardedbob.com/collections/customised-gaming-mouse/products/repair-broken-mouse-switch-or-replace-with-better-service
@@Beardedbob it was actually simple, because for some reason the battery they give you is 3.7v and doesnt work with normal aa batteries. i've got it down to 67g but thats with a 180mah just waiting for my 100 one should hopfully be down to 65g. watching your videos has inspired me to do it
