@@aaronclark9386 You need to google gaslighting mate. It could still be conceived as vaping. Clearly from multiple comments that seem to be the perception.
@@benmiles00 I appreciate that it’s “their perception” but it’s not the truth. Unfortunately it is now commonplace to attack or amend facts to placate individuals that are too lazy or ignorant to see past their own alternative facts that contribute to a “personal reality” that isn’t based on facts. So…stop trying to gaslight, and have fun in your hobby journey.
The models looks amazing, and there is a lot of great tips. But to me it is not blue enough to be an ultramarine. Also, how would you pustøh the brightness on darker colour schemes like Dark Angels or Iron Hands?
Very nice tutorial, since i use enamels and oil based washes regulary id like to add something, Enamel and white spirit fumes a very unhealthy (villany inks are supposed to be less toxic cause of a different formula), use it in well ventilated areas, white spirits will fuck up your natural brushes, id advise to use syntethic brushes for those in the long run...also if you go for the reduction technique ( remove enamles with white spirits) you should use a clearcoat on your mini before you use enamels, cause if you "scrub" to hard some acrylic colors or speedpaints might reactivate and get "washed" off the model
clearcoat as in varnish right? I've been trying that but matt varnish didnt manage to protect the acrylics fully and glossy varnish stays glossy even if I put matt over it at the end, so I'm struggling a bit atm...
@@TheCountSummon i normally use the satin varnish from army painter, its not that glossy and after you use enamels (i use them all over like the mini is dipped in, then reduce with a sponge and soft dipping) so there is absolutely no shine becaue ethe enamles are as matte as can be, what do you use for removing the enamels? I made bad experiences with qtips since the are to hard
In regards to the dirty down rust and vertigris, i have found that if you let them sit for to long in the bottle, a realy thick layer at the bottom of the bottle forms, that has all the "reacting" stuff in it, and in order to get it working again, you have to REALY stir the stuff with a stick to get it working again. sometomes the agitator ball evan gets stuck in the grime at the bottom.
I've found that warming the bottle up a bit (not in a microwave or anything like that lol) under my armpit or behind my knee for 5-10mins before use and then mixing does the trick nicely
If I'm not mistaken, Goon's Grime was designed to color match the old Streaking Grime recipe from AK that was super popular before they changed the formula. I also think Coelia Green and Carrion Crimson are close matches to Coelia Greenshade and Carroburg Crimson washes from GW. Zatcaskagoon would often use those as filters through the airbrush and I think he wanted to make enamel versions for them.
It always amazes me how someone can paint something like this in an hour or two. It usually takes me an entire day or more just to paint something to a very basic gw style parade ready.
Honestly that's probably because the gw painting style is incredibly inefficient, I've been painting to that style because that's what I was taught, and especially on days where I lack motivation it can take forever to get otherwise simple steps done.
Is "grimdark" just a model with battle damage and dirt? I see the videos from Grimdark Compendium and those make sense to me that they are called grimdark because he adds bits and stuff to make the minis look disturbed and creepy. But I see so many youtubers using that term and I don't see where the difference between their "grimdark" and a normal paint style that just uses more weathering lies.
Awesome Tutorial... now question: how would one pull off a similar effect if they wanted to have their Army (imperial guard) in full Black Armor with any fabric being dark grey.
Thank you for all of your content. I've been procrastinating for years to get into this hobby, and I've finally started delving deep into the lore and painting of Warhammer 40K. I appreciate your videos, which have helped guide me in the right direction on how to create these masterpieces.
I personally like Trovarion's grim dark marines better as it looks more like battle damage. Your method looks more like he's been slogging through mud or fighting in melee with nurglings. It's good to have different options though or maybe even combine different methods to get the grim dark effect you prefer.
Loving the grimdark look or better said "actually looking like centuries old warriors fighting endless wars in the gutter, and not fresh out of factory parade primadonas in smurf superblue armor"
I always appreciate the work that goes into these tutorials. Talking about your process and highlighting the steps to make them easy to follow. You're damned good at your craft! Having said that, I hate all that rust. Orks and Death Guard? Rust all the way! Necrons? Could work. Seeing rust on a Space Marine? Madness. Ah well. Art is subjective and the tutorial has to show all the possibilities available to us. Looking forward to the next video.
I love painting in grim dark with oils. As a working adult, I find that I don't have the time to flex the hobby muscles consistently. A painting style that encourages messier highlights and a process that I can stop and start again is great !!
Grimdark is one thing, but I don't think it should be overdone. No decent army would stand for rust on their most essential gear. Wear, sure, but not rust. Especially not on the tip-of-the-spear force like the Astartes. I bet an Astartes would maintain the paint on their gear meticulously. It would get chipped and work in the heat of battle, but it would be back to clean before the next battle. Rusty gear indicates an improperly trained and commanded force.
me 20 years ago: GW painting scheme is too bright... let me use duller colour schemes other mini painters: you're doing it wrong! that's not how space marines look! ... now: grimdark! me: sigh... (great video btw, I 100% agree with your comments on grim dark vs the official paint schemes :-) )
@@Hudston what's a better alternative? Spray cans? I've been using Army Painter cans but they speckle so much, at least the white does (no issues with black)
@@PeterResponsible You're going to have a hard time with white primer regardless of what brand you use; at microscopic level the white pigment molecules are larger than other colors so it's really hard to avoid speckling. I'd recommend getting a light gray primer. I use a Vallejo rattle can but I haven't heard anything bad about Citadel's grey seer or even an off-white like Wraithbone.
Fab video. From the other products you showed which are the essential enamel washes you would recommend? I have streaking grime but want to expand further, but not sure what sort of colours to pick up.
Personally, I think you should have chosen a different figure to demonstrate these enamels. I don't buy into the grimdark look for loyal Space Marine chapters. I have always seen them maintaining their equipment to the highest standard , heck the new Helbrecht miniature has a servitor cleaning the blood of his sword!!!! But then I am not a fan of this art, wasn't into it 40+ years ago, not into it now. Each to their own right. 👍👍😉
"It almost feels like Disney bought out Games Workshop." JEEBUS MALONE ON A POGO STICK, WHY ARE YOU GIVING THEM IDEAS?! In other news: I am always in awe (and a little - okay a lot - jealous) of your painting results, regardless of the model, technique, theme, or style.
Apply clear coat, add decals if you need to, one more thin clear coat, wash, dry, clean wash with brush and q-tip... Then coat with flat or semigloss to seal in your work and finish. Using enamels without clear coat can lead to damaging the paint especially for newbies with overly moist q-tip in Mineral spirit... Also for patient and slower painters, just use oils. They are cheap, workable for very long time.
Ahh, good old "Slap the load of grimey shit on my tank" technique I was using for ages =) But really though, I don't know why people ar so afraid of using enamel products, it's super easy and the most obvious drawback is smell of mineral spirits, but even that is not a problem, bot Ammo for MIG and AK have odorless enamel thinners in their lines.
Heck yeah! Those Villany Inks have been on my wishlist for a few weeks now. Waiting for payday to get a few and try them out on some Tyranids! Thanks for showing off the techniques! :)
I've been painting my Death Guard army for a long time now, up to a display finish. I play it on the table top however (I know, I'm nuts. 1550 pts in about 5-6 years or so painting). I've been wanting to slap on some grimdark aesthetic to it, but I'm not sure if it'll do the trick. All my minis are fully painted and varnished. Would it work? I would have to slap some enamel paint on it and boost the contrast by highlighting them again, I think. Kind of in a bind about it... I'd love to share some photos on here, but I'm not sure if that's allowed?
I'm sorry but I need to say this : stop lying about how long these minis take to paint, you're giving false hope to anyone wanting to try this style of painting. There's no way this was 1.5 hours of work - with the amount of colours you used, there's at least 20-30 mins of cleaning brushes, grabbing the colours needed, and figuring out your process. I understand your timer might be purely brush-on-mini time, but that's a very misleading way to give an overall painting time. I personally tried to replicate your Tyranid grimdark paint scheme, of which you claimed to be less than 2 hours if I recall correctly, and after 3 hours I still wasn't done painting a Hormagaunt, and I gave up on it because of that. I understand painting experience can play a role in speed, but hearing you say you could paint this marine in 45 mins now that the process is ironed out, I call BS. I love your videos Jon, but when you make these speedy paint time claims, I can't help but get frustrated with you. Please be more upfront and transparent on the time breakdowns. I will happily eat my words if you post a full, un-edited video of you painting another marine like this, in less than an hour.
How long did it take for the Villainy Ink to 100% dry? I have minis that still smudge off paint 2 weeks later despite both shaking and thinning down the product. I had to wash and scrub clean several miniatures that were just messed up and start over. Really bummed out about this product. Compared to AK Interactive streaking grime and regular oil washes I found Villainy Ink to be very unpredictable in use even if the initial WIP results looks good. Dirty Down rust is the best product on the market for natural looking rust effects, love how you can add or thin it down to get different color variations.
Gorgeous model, beautifully painted, but that's a space wolf. The grimey look lends itself better to them anyway, since while I agree I can't imagine the Space Wolves bringing an elite cadre of combat armor polishers and paint touch up servitors with them on campaign, I absolutely CAN imagine the ultramarines doing that, since the Codex Astartes demands proper identifying marks and badging. I always imagine the differences in the combat ethos of the chapters, and the 'timing' of the painting in the battle controls the dirtyness. My marines would never dream of entering a battle without proper paintwork!
I have a question about paint storage. I've recently come back to the hobby after a 15 year hiatus, and I'm just rebuilding my paint collection. My question is this: At what temperature can i safely store my acrylic paints, how about enamels for washes? I live in a desert, where temps can regularly hit 115F in the summer, and my painting setup is in my uncooled garage. Is it safe to keep my paints there? or should I keep them inside when not in use? How hot is too hot?
Jon, i know Warhammer gets the bills paid but please push the boundary a little and check out Turnip28. Your skills let loose on thst would be fucking sick
Nice work again. Also painting grimdark SM, but after some experimenting I picked diluted contrast paints for the weathering. They achieve a very similar result for me and I don't have to work with enamels...tried them several times and just hate to work with them.
Hey Jon, it seems, that Steamforged just acquired Warmachine and the p3 paints rights (or sth like that). It seems, like they want to re-release the P3 paints. Maybe, if you like, just contact them and let us hear, what they planing to do. P3 in a bigger range and in droppers is probably sth, we all want to see.
This Grimdark excuse to make models look like crap and get view really pisses me off. I served in the military and deployed are gear and cammies and weapons would never end up looking like this. This is neglect not wear, battle damage or like you've been fighting from a muddy bomb crater. The Chaplain and or Techmarine would have a field day with this POS Marine.
Any tips with different colors? Especially warm colors? Also, I've been playing with oils. This would seem to be achieved as well with oils. (So I don't need to buy yet more products)
I use that exact term about most models, right off the factory floor. I feel only Ultramarines and maybe some Eldar should be shiny and clean. Everything else, especially human infantry, should be dirty and worn. Bugs and daemons, dirty and worn. A veteran unit might be clean, or cleaner, but their items and clothes should be well used and worn. I did that with my Goliath gang for Necromunda. The Juves have deep color on their clothes, since they just joined and have new clothes, and their weapons are old and worn. They got the hand me downs and stuff sitting around. The leader's clothes are worn and lighter in color, but their weapons are shinier and well kept, well-polished and sharpened.
I love your channel, but I disagree here. Do you know anything about Ultramarines? There's no way they'd allow rust on their armor. Battle damage and mud is fine, but rust? Nope.
It seems similar weathering effects could be made with Pro Acryl “Newsh” medium by working and removing mixtures with acrylic paint. I’m hesitant to use enamel and spirits due to their toxicity
ive always been team Clean Armor. even on guardsmen. having been in the Military, Equipment upkeep was part of everyday duty. you need to make sure everythings cleaned and functions correctly. yes even in war time. even during a combat encounter. so with the military takeing on some of the Religious fervor, all that weapons and equipment maintenance would be seen as devotional. stuff as holy and hallowed as Astartes armor, bolters, Land Raiders all that, would be doubley so.
@Ninjon would you be willing to consider grim dark tutorial for something non-power armour? Like a Harlequin? I've not been able to find a tutorial for grim dark harlequins.
When this video started, i was sitting thinking if the commercial would be displate or perhaps some VPN stuff. Imagine my surprise when I saw you advertising freaking vapor shit. Way to go on being a complete sell out. Hope they paid you a lot.
All marines should look like that - I hate that 'Grimdark' is a separate named thing, when it should be the standard. Wonderful work though, one of your best! 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Looks great. I've been struggling with upping the contrast on my grimdark Blood Angels as I feel edge highlighting clashes with the griminess of the enamel wash. I'll have to give this scratchy highlighting a go! Do you think the overall technique here scales to bigger models with very large flat/panelled areas like vehicles?
I really enjoyed the painting and the introduction of the new "inks." However, I cannot agree with the rust on the weapons, professional military keep their weapons as clean as possible. Also pure gold would not tarnish and gold alloys tarnish by becoming darker and darker, they do not verdigris. The armour effects were great.
Would be great if I owned an airbrush.does anybody still use brushes and regular paint? Also gold doesn’t oxidize,brass and copper do but gold doesn’t.just saying.
I dont really like Grimdark Paintjobs, but I can understand why people like them. I much prefer the grimdark paintings and art that we find in codexes and novels.
I personally dont like grim dark paint style, its boring for me. I much more prefer a kick to the face in saturation and colour. Also that an army looks like they where just recently power washed when they arrived to the battlefield. Imagine a version of 40k where before every battle every faction is required to power wash there units XD
Hey mate, you don’t talk about protection when using these products. They are extremely toxic and even more so when you put a hair dryer on them. If you are going to use these products please, please 🙏 where gloves and a respirator mask. This stuff will make you sick and ruin your lungs.
Glad to see your pig guy with a sword in the display case, it’s my favorite model I’ve ever seen you paint, and have revisited that video countless times.
I really enjoy your channel, i view all of them. However i miss some warhammer fantasy content, maybe its not your cup of tea. Your take on a grimdark brettonian knight would be cool.
Nice video. good paint job and neat effects. My only quibble is that I think his armor still reads more space wolf grey then ultra marine blue. I would go a shade or two darker on the initial base coats. Still looks great and i would be very happy with an army of them.
This is honestly one of my favorite grim dark videos, it came out so amazing, now im thinking how to use this technique with Dark Angels, i guess i have to go semi bright with the green right?
Think you have it the other way around on saturation. I've found the base coat should be super saturated in grimdark, because the enamel wash will tone it down a lot on its own.
Looks more like a rainbow warrior imo. For an ultramarine id probably go the full zorn pallet and use the bluish black, and hightlight up with white a bit. Still great model tho
It looks really awesome. It still doesn't look like an Ultramarine. It's just too bright. It looks like sun bleached blue, but you don't have the saturation in the shadows that you would get with a true sun bleaching.
