YOU'RE WRONG! TRACTOR MISCONCEPTIONS THAT COULD COST YA! 🤯 

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Far too many people have ZERO experience with machinery such as tractors with loaders which not only destroys the machine but also can be deadly super quick.

Youre wife must be nice. Mine would never let me keep my tractor inside our laundry room and, believe me, I've tried 🤣 my biggest misconception when buying a tractor was thinking the salesman knew everything about the tractor and would steer me in the right direction. I should have done more of my own research.

Ever since the early 1980's working on the families Christmas tree farm as a teenager, I've heard stories about people getting injured or worse on tractors. I wish everyone in the industry was as safety focussed as you are Sir. It's real easy to get in trouble with a tractor. Thanks for the content and all of your informative videos!

I love that you left the 'blooper' in the video where you were loading the front bucket and how quickly you saved it from tipping as it started to go over. But that perfectly illustrated the tipability of tractors. I have a 4320 and mistakenly caught a tough root with the corner of my front bucket. When I attempted to lift the load, the bucket stayed at ground level and the tractor started to get pulled over! Holy Smokes! Will that make your backside pucker! Keep up the great videos!! BTW, I still love my Speeco E Quick hitch! At 60 years old, it's so nice to keep my butt in the seat.

Bigger is better is a possible misconception too. I use my 1025R doing residential concrete sidewalks, patios, slabs inside buildings and driveways. The small machine gets in tight spaces and doesn't tear yards up like a large machine or skid steer. It might take me twice the trips moving gravel but I can maneuver much faster on a small machine. Most useful attachments for me are loader, backhoe,, tiller, box blade and of course wheel weights. Tillers are perfect for sod removal and leaves material easy to spread around later. Also good for leveling slight slopes. I like my R4 tires but I spend a fair amount of time on asphalt, concrete and gravel. The thing I like the least about the 1025R is the way shifting in & out of front wheel drive works.

My wife would never allow me to bring my tractor into our laundry room.

Good info. We get the same type of comments when we are pushing our tractor hard.....that's what they are made for. Life's short, Tractor HARD!! 👍

One mindset I’ve never understood is the “why put hours on that machine when you can put hours on another machine?” I’ve known some people over the years that have that mindset with all different kinds of equipment and machinery… One of my favorites was a guy I knew that had a fairly successful lawn and snow business that refused to put a snowplow on his powerstroke F-250 because “it’s hard on the truck”. But he was perfectly happy to buy a 12,000lb skid steer and an additional 5,000lbs of buckets, scrapers, snowblowers and brooms to put on an 8,000lb trailer. And pull it around through a foot of snow every time we had a storm…Needless to say he went through a lot of transmissions, shocks and tires. And other than maybe a couple accounts. Every account he had would have been much quicker to just show up with a nice v plow on the truck.

Listening to people complain about the tires on snow and ice I exhausting. For most people the tire shouldn't matter,get a set of John deere tire chains. Night and day difference . I know he's not a fan of chains because they" may"reck asphalt. If you avoid spinning your tires you won't damage the asphalt. Without out doubt a chain will push 10x what any regular tire will. If you don't have asphalt then seriously 🤦🏼. Now I realize chains suck to put on. So on my smaller tractor I simply bought a second set of rims and tires to have my chains on . Super easy to just swap rear tires .

"you can't overload your loader"...while video is playing of the tractor almost tipping over from weight in the loader! I guess moral of the story is to let the loader pickup what it can and not stack stuff in there! Don't get hurt, Courtney!

I agree with you on the (why are you putting hours on your tractor) comment. I buy things to use them not to say I own one

Tractor tipping with a loader is always on my mind. I always carry my loader as low as possible loaded or not. It's incredible how quick a tractor will go over with a loader hanging on the front. Even a purpose built loader tractor. Seems we are always working on uneven surfaces with rocks, stumps and holes. I would include doing jobs that twist or apply pressure to the loader and tractor are very dangerous and potentially expensive. I have seen tractors broke in half (ones without frames where the engine and transaxle serves as the frame. Please be careful my friends!

2000 hours in 20 years. I got a giggle out that, I've already put 1300 hours on my 2020 4066r it gets some use. But it isn't the only tractor I have and use, collectively I'm putting around 3000 hours a year on our 7 tractors. Some of the old girls have huge hours on them, one a 1984 130hp tractor just clicked over 21,000 hours another a 1966 55hp just clocked 18,000 hours.

Great video. I could especially relate to the dealership part about them telling someone that something isn't available or couldn't be done. Never take their word for it if you have seen it elsewhere or ask them why it isn't available. I'd go further and research it or look to another dealer for information. Especially with tires. The right tire for the job is pretty important. My dad has a B2601 Kubota and it has the industrial tires. He mostly uses it for mowing and some light loader work. They have a long driveway. Would be nice to have the Goodyear r14 for snow but he hasn't complained about it. It may have come that way too because the tractor was already on the lot and was on sale.

I bought a Green 2520 Tractor 10 years ago when I was building a Pole Barn. It was more than I needed for 3 Acres, but when I compared renting a machine for a month, or buying, it just made more sense. A 1025 would have done the job, but experience has told me, to go up a little to work less. When i need an extra hand, i go get my little green friend. Each year, i try to add another attachment. A machine is a great investment and it will save you alot of time and back pain. Currently, my friend is approaching its 100 hourday. it's never let me down. Especially, when it moves a lot of SNOW from Lake Erie's Lake Effect Snowstorms.

The best thing I've done is stop worrying about hours on my tractor. I'll turn it off if it will be more than 5 minutes idling but otherwise I just use it.

I traded my 23hp Kubota B2320 for a 25hp L2501. My post hole auger would bog and stall the B, so I didn’t expect much more out of the L…was I dead wrong! The L has nearly a 70% increase in torque, which makes it literally 3-4 times the tractor! Torque is more important than HP with PTO work. I also went with the DT model over HST for the less parasitic loss at the PTO. I can definitely see where HST is more efficient, as the B was a HST, but I just take my time and enjoy the ride😁

Thanks for another great video. My 2016 Kubota L3800 had 4982 hours on it before it was damaged and totaled in an accident being towed on my trailer (someone rearended me and the trailer flipped). I am waiting for Summit to come out with the enclosed cab in 2023 so I can purchase it. My 1995 Ford/ New Holland has over 13,000 hours on it and still funs fine. As long as you properly maintain your equipment, hours are not that much of an issue.

Biggest misconception,Is how much you need one vs how much you want one. I’ve got 110 hours in four years. Seventy hours came from loaning to my dad,so he could build a new garden. I did ten hours this year. It’s had four complete fluid changes in 110 hours.

Misconceptions are awfully hard to counter. Especially when someone "knows" them to be true.

That was scary… that tip over… Nice save

To be over tractored or under tractored is the question… I’ve owned 2,3,4 and 5 Series John Deere’s and have come to the opinion through personal experience that most people buy the wrong sized tractor to meet their needs. Just look at the volume of used Tractors on the market with minimal use. By owning these tractors I’ve learned what their true capabilities are and are not. I think most people’s propensity is to buy too small of tractor, and then lean towards a bigger model within 2 years.

Great information. I appreciate you taking the time to educate us all. Have a blessed Christmas!

All great info Courtney, I bought the Versa Turf tires because of the info you provided on your channel 👍🏻. The Versa Turf are perfect for my needs, they are awesome in the snow 👍🏻. Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to the GWT family and all the best in 2023 ⛄️🎅🏻🎄🙋🏼‍♂️🙂👍🏻🇨🇦🇺🇸

I have a 2020 Mahindra EMax20 with the industrial tires. This tractor’s primary mission is winter snow blowing with a front mounted Bercomac 48” blower. This is the factory cab version EMax. I have a very steep 180’ paved driveway. So far I have had no problems navigating the driveway uphill. Recently we got a wet, heavy snow that when compacted turned to ice. Had to raise the blower for the added weight on front tires and was able to get up the drive. Simply stated I am pleased with the industrial tires for snow.

Haha, loading that subcompact and nearly tipping it, and that look and smile said it all🤣🤣🤣….honestly, the best tractor videos, right along side messicks.

As far as "Tips & Tricks" go (do you have a thread for this ?), I use color coded tie-raps to label the hydraulic connectors so I get a consistent & working order for the controls. Especially useful when 'borrowing' the loader circuits for rear machinery control (hay mower header lift & tongue swing for example). Up is up and left is left and rotation is as intended !

They versa turf tires that I got with my 2025R are made by Carlisle not good year. I have been pleased with the traction they provide while tilling, plowing snow or general ground use with the box blade or logging on my property. I was talking to my dealer a few weeks back and they told me that they couldn't get the versa turf tires due to a shortage. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all watching and commenting on this video.

One of the misconceptions that drive me crazy is “that little tractor won’t do anything”

I have had my lsmt225 economy tractor since 2019. The only complaint I have about my tractor. Is the adjustment on the 3-point arms of the right hand side on the back is aggravating to deal with. But as far as the quality of the machine the durability the ease of it running. It is as good as any machine I have ever owned in my life and I have owned a lot. To get the same size machine in a John Deere I would had to have bought a three series but even the three series is not as large as the mt2 series LS machine. I hear people talk about resale value of the machines. Well the John Deere tractor was three times what I paid for my LS tractor new. My machine has to 600 hours. I was offered $12,700 for it the other day. I paid $16,000 for mine brand new. I would say that is a pretty good resale value. Considering what I paid new for it. I do everything from pull a two bottle turning playoff to pulling a 6-ft disc. A hydro garden bedder. So do I have any complaints about my machine. Considering what the price of everything else was for the size that I got and the amount of work that it is done. I will put it like this I'm in the market for a 70 to 80 horsepower cab tractor. So I bought an LS brand one of those also. Mt573. If it is half the machine for little machine is I will be well satisfied for the price I am paying

Lately it really seems like the color of the tractor is secondary to the dealer selling it. A bad dealer can wreck the ownership experience of even the perfect tractor. It’s getting exasperating really.

Totally agree!!!! Keep up the great work!

My 1025R had 60 hours when I bought it. No idea why the prior owner traded it in. Maybe wanted larger . . . but his loss was my gain. Does what I need to replace my beloved Ford 640 (1956) that stopped running but owed me nothing after 16 years.

On the Ranch/Farm/Feedlot we generally got rid of our tractors at the 6500 - 8000 hour mark with Versatile & Case. These were big tractors of course. That seemed to be the best time before repairs would get to be more than they were worth fixing for us. Down time is expensive and we were about 2.5 hours from any big dealerships. I owned a tire shop and we did hydraulic hoses there and all the fittings. Expensive inventory, but it turned over really quick as well. Spring & fall were the prime times of course. We switched to John Deere before I was starting to buy in and as the tractors houses out we replaced them with a similar sized tractor or adjusted the size if necessary. John Deere were good at estimating your needs and we trusted them. It was a good decision. (This is the late 70s early 80s). The fuel bliss dropped noticeably with every new tractor/s we brought in, even when taking some big steps up in the articulated steer tractors for the big field work. Of course we kept up with seeding and harvesting equipment. We switched to air seeders early on and reaped huge benefits even when there was more downtime than with conventional seeders. It was like taking 3 steps and merging them into one! So to speak. By the time I was the owner of the place and some additional acreage the ranch was a total of just over 8800 acres. I was the middle sized guy there though. I could manage that much land with the core crew I had and there were seasonal workers that came in as well. The seasonal workers were hard on equipment, but we found the John Deere were not showing problems at even 10,000 hours. We did switch to a leasing program where the equipment turned over every 2 years. We had enough equipment it was a worthwhile program. Nicer than having a few million (CAD) tied up in equipment. I could make more than enough to live off from that money even when taking the lease costs into account and before tax implications. (Make a a fella’s head explode!) we were way ahead monetarily. Anyways all that time we had several yard tractors close to or equal to the current 3 series and 4 series as well as a little 25 hp diesel garden tractor with the tiller, mowers etc. no farmhand. We had 3 other tractors from a 3 series up to a 6195 grade tractor, can’t remember the model, with front end loaders. We had two JCB Telehandlers and an old “restored” Case W14 as well. That case had over 20,000 hours and was on the same motor with no rebuild yet. Some of our older yard tractors, 36 hp and 28 hp had well over 6,000 hours, but they were old,,,,, early 1990 models, when I sold out just over 3 years ago. They were very well cared for and shop/shed stored all of their lives. They just worked. If they were to break down, you hoped like heck you could find the parts or improvise though. It wasn’t a big problem, because they never broke unless it was a hose or light, seat, something like that. Like he said, the tractors are capable of putting in thousands of hours without problems. I left the ranch with 2 smaller tractors, a 4 series and a 3 series, both only a year old, so they are both about 4 years old. I traded both in and I have two John Deere, 3039R and a 3046R series, tractors now. Both with cabs and loaders, the 3039 with a drive over mower, the other I pull a 12 ft batwing folding mower. You can cut a lot of grass fast with that! I have snow blades for the loader quick attach and they are nice and usually all I will need, but I have a rear mounted snow blower, also a bush hog, tiller, cultivator, disc, mini round balers 2 sizes, grapple, hay cutter, sweep rakes etc. I bale about 40 acres of hay for family & friends as they need it. Keeps me doing something I like. You can do sooo much with the tractors. I have a 3 point hitch wood splitter on the 3046. What an awesome tool! It’s almost never ending!! Haha.

I love the snow blower on the back. The box type snow blade on front. Such a great snow removal combo.

I had an old Kubota L3130 on a big frame. It did everything we needed to do, but developed maintenance issues. When we sold it and bought a new one, I had to jump to a Kubota L4701 just to have the lifting capacity with the loader to manage large round bales. I knew I didn't need the horsepower, but it was the smallest Kubota with enough lift capacity. The old L3130 had the same loader as the L4701 (the new one is a bit stronger). I agree with the comment about horsepower.

Only way I will go is r4 tires.... They are stronger.. industrial tire and I have absolutely no problem with traction in winter with no chains... Turf tires have their purpose as far as the lawn mower goes... Other than that plain ugly up a tractor.... R14 honestly cannot give a opinion never tried them.... But I hear they're pretty darn expensive.... Just seems to me the type of work I do I would tear them up pretty quick.... A lot of good information on your video enjoyed it.... Good for the first timers

Just an add on to the hour misconception. Most people do not realize the amount of engine running hours they put on a vehicle, in most cases they have about 1/3 more engine running hours than they do miles on that particular vehicle. With that being said the engine running hours on a vehicle is way different than that of a tractor as the tractor is not working the engine as hard as an automobile. I would say that the most valuable thing that can be done when being a tractor owner is research. Allot of research can save you time and money in the long run. As always great information provided and touching on the various things that new and even old owners face on the daily.

Like you said about time, when taken care of these engines will last a very long time. The tractor as a whole will last a very long time. Most people look at hours on tractors but don’t think about the vehicle they drive daily. A car/ truck has way more hours on them by the time they reach 50k, 75k, 100k, or 150k miles. And that’s not adding in idle time for those lovely days where it’s -10 or 100+ degrees outside and we want to be able to get into a comfortable vehicle to escape the climate. Traffic jams, waiting in line at our favorite fast food joint, etc… that engine run time is a hidden add up that’s not tracked nor thought of. It’s all about how a vehicle is taken care of!

A thousand hours ain’t nothing. Years ago back on the farm we had tractors with eight thousand plus hours on them and they were gasoline engines. Don’t get me wrong we did regular maintenance and made repairs but as long as you take care of them they will run a long time. Diesels are even better cause they run at lower rpm’s and develop more torque w/o revving very high.

Behind on your videos Mr. Courtney …for tires I’d like to know which are best for fescue and hills. We are moving soon hopefully and I will eventually get the weeds to fescue but there’s some hills on it that I won’t be able to go sideways with the 1025R. The stock Carlisle Trac Chief that originally came with the tractor was fluid filled and tearing up the current yard on turns in some areas. I had requested no fluid and ended up with new tires as the tractor and maybe twenty hours on it. I had also driven it to the dealership about three miles down the road. The salesman said driving on the asphalt was really bad and I pointed out he told me to do it. He had to reimburse me for the fluid I didn’t want but was automatically charged. He also never told me about the need for ballast weight where I learned from you and a couple of the websites you mentioned by the way. Next time it goes in to the shop, I will have to pay for fluid to be put in. Our closest Rimguard is down in SC so a no go for me. If I had to buy my first tractor again, I’d definitely go to the different sites and of course watch your videos, seems I could have had better equipment than what I’ve purchased. Thank you so much for educating me!

The R14's are very much available. I saw them on a MX5400 this summer. I asked my dealer, and he said they would go right on the L6060. Maybe not "goodyear", but they are available.

Great video Courtney! I'm a big fan of forums, lots of information and experience to learn from out there. Have a Merry Christmas!

You’re absolutely correct about everything. Tractors are not indestructible and you will learn your limits. I would say clearing and hauling brush/trees is the hardest on my 2032r. Sticks poking through and busting hydraulic lines. I have a gen 1 2015 2032r with 200hrs. It pretty much sits in the shop but I always need it at least 3 or 4 times a year.

Just turned 1,025 hrs on my **25R... if I'm not working on a project, I'm going for a ride somewhere lol. Merry Christmas GWT Courtney and family... our biggie snow isn't too far away, have fun!

I have a 1023e and I love it. Would I have liked a 1025r ? Absolutely, but this tractor gets it done. The heaviest work it does is splitting firewood with one run off the power beyond. I didn't buy it to run in parades, I bought it to work and, so far, no matter what I've thrown at it, it always comes through.

Tractor Time With Tim would say ...not so fast on the 4 series JD for your new place. You can do everything you need with a 1025 (within limits). Just give that a go for awhile and then decide how much bigger you need. If I had just 20 acres I would be happy with a 1025 or similar but with 110 acres I needed the larger tractor and more $$$ for every single implement to get done all of my chores quicker and easier.

Good video as most of us continue to learn. Here’s one…thinking the kubota grill guard will protect the grill. I reckon it will work if you happen to bump into a deer. Another one…manufactures sure seem use the term SHUTTLE DRIVE to describe what’s not a shuttle drive. I knew this when I got my Kubota gear drive they called a shuttle (it’s not even close to being true).

Good video Courtney. What are the headlights on that 1025r you’re sitting on? They look like an LED instead of the stock clear lens.

Looking forward to the video featuring Goodyear/Titan upcoming.

L6066. 9.5x16 and 14.9x26 standard size. Titan international has tours close to stock size but you would need a new wheel. I have always found it better to search the tire companies websites for tires than a forum, though there is great info there

Just over a year with my 1023e and I’ve put 204 hours on it. Good machine.

To those that would ask why you would put hours on a tractor. I have a question why buy a tool just to have it sit. In my business if something isn’t getting used it’s costing you money. It blows my mind to see tractors that are almost 10 years old and only have 50, 60, or maybe 120 hrs

Right on the horsepower. That is why there are so many different sizes of attachments in order to meet your hp specs. You need to determine the jobs you have and the size of the machine that will fit those tasks. By size, I mean weight, width, length, and height. This figures into fitting in your tractor to your job area, transport on trailer and storage. By the way, it is true that you CAN'T get R14s on the Grand L series. You can in Kubotas LX series, and I believe smaller models . We tried on our Grand L 3560 earlier this year and it wasn't available. There is a rumor that John Deere bought out production for their 3R and 4R series, and the tire maker (Goodyear) hasn't been able to increase production for the other tractor makes. The best we could do was R4 over the tractor tread, which, of course, is R1.

seals on the front axle go with too much weight in the loader (about to do the 3rd set) and you can bend the loader arms.

Thank you Courtney Merry Christmas

Great video 👍

Did I miss it? I have an old 45 hp MF 150, 2wd. From what I have seen, a 35 hp 4WD tractor can match or beat what my machine can do simply because you have 4 wheels pulling verses two. You can still save money buying 2wd tractors, but it might be smart to compare what pulling power to the ground you have and then buy something at lower hp but with 4WD. Secondly, my old machine has cast iron construction from front to rear and it weighs more than some now days at the same hp. Weight to ground per wheel is what it all adds up to, and of course, as you mentioned, what tire tread a person has matters. Then, how much ground each wheel actually is in contact with the ground matters. That is why you see some tractors with duallies. It might be interesting to figure out how many pounds per square inch you get per wheel and the resultant pulling power is available to do the job. That could end up with some good technical knowledge folks could use to accomplish different types of jobs when they buy a tractor set up.

I have averaged 165 hr/ yr with L3901 2018 Kubota on a new property but will likely reduce by 25% moving forward. The L3902 is available now and would be a logical update; creating an excellent used low hour trade in.

You should consider a video on proper use of glow plugs or assisted start. I see guys just light em up for full sequence middle of summer I have no issues instantly starting my tractor right down to zero so far.

I'm currently sitting at 63.5 hours on my 2021 Mahindra emax 20s I bought it for use around my warehouse and have since acquired a 1992 cat 40 series forklift and I split up the uses between both 😅 🙃 I recently took the Mahindra for a drive around the neighborhood just to run it you should have seen the looks I got at the local coffee shop when I stopped for lunch

So you sell the pallet fork that hook onto the 3 point quick hitch?

I have Goodyear R14s on my MX6000 but it was delivered with R1s since R14s were backordered in early 2022. I got the dealer to trade/replace for a reasonable fee and really like them, but it took a few month to get them in. Perhaps they are still hard to source and his dealer doesn't want to bother with it (?).

I bought a 1997 John Deere 855 with 3,200 hours and still looks like new runs perfect. Best tractor I've had

I sorta agree with you on more horsepower isn’t always better. My recommendation would be to figure out what series or size tractor you need then get the biggest or most horsepower in that series. Example in the JD 4000 series just get the 4066 don’t get the depowered versions. Your paying for a 4000 series tractor just get the most powerful so it can handle any implements that fit it.

Hope you cover cryptic tire size designations.

Ask your Titan rep why Kubota L60 series doesn’t have R14 and if you could get them direct from a tire dealer (not the tractor dealer) and how you would size them if you already have R4s. Also I’ve been curious if they have the same load rating for loader and backhoe work like on an L6060.

I'm not sure if it's the case or not. A traditional style geared tractor and shuttle shift drive trains had the most hydraulic strength vs. a hydrostatic drive the few times when a dealer offer's drive train options. This is from the hydrostatic using the same hydraulic pump for drive train and loader/remote work. I believe that newer (2010 to now) tractors have larger pumps to accommodate the difference.

Trailer capacity is the one that has me caught now that I have upgraded to a bigger tractor. My first tractor was good on a 7k GVWR trailer but the new one is going to need a 10k min to go most of the places I need to haul it.

That breaking a loader thing probably comes from some of the older guys who were around when Farmhand came out with the first loaders. Seen a lot of patch plates and welds on those old loaders as they were pretty fragile, but the new loaders are much better made. Not to say that you absolutely can't tweak one though.

Love my R4s John Deere 3038E in Australia where it never snows so traction has been a non issue. Even in mud in the winter.

I’m going to use my brother in laws skid steer attachments on my compact tractor

The reason rear ballast is most important, is the fact that the front end is the fulcrum when lifting with a tractor loader. You have a lighter duty center pivoting support as opposed to the heavy duty solid rear axle that is made to carry weight and is solidly affixed to the tractor. Operators should be prepared to quickly lower the bucket in a tip situation. Years ago, I built an F10 loader that places the weight on the rear end. (The whole thing is set up backwards). We tipped that loader many times but it never tipped left to right because the weight is on the rear end. Similar to ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-gbCeTs5Juwc.htmlsi=Fojp9KJaUnKYJxWo

IIRC Messick's orders most of thier subcompact Kubotas with R-14s. I recall my salesperson mentioning that when I bought my BX.

I thought that sounded weird also that R14s weren't available on the L6060, but according to the kubota website build function, only R1, R3 & R4s are available on that model. Also checked the L3560 (lowest in that series) and it's the same. But - they *are* available on the standard L series. It seems there's no figuring what these companies decide to do!

What is the best snow ice tire. Live in Alaska and need a good tire.

Your buddy he might be right. When I talk to dealerships, they haven’t rolled out every size tire yet so for that particular tractor tire size in R14 may not be available yet. He can always ask the dealership when they think they might roll that size out. I was looking into a L 4701 and they don’t offer the R14 tires in that size tractor yet hopefully this year when they bring L4702 they were offered the R14 in that tire size at that time.

Mike of Outdoors with the Morgans just took delivery of 2 Kabota tractors one smaller tractor and a I think 50+ hp tractor with R14 tires on both.

Thanks for the video as always!! One more time, What is your relationship with summit? Do they give you any kind of compensation?

Can you tell me about the mat your tractor is parked on? Is it for water, oil,etc to protect floor? Where can it be purchased from & approx cost?

I love my tractor I don't know how I ever got along without it.

What tire pressures would you run a 5100 Deere?

great vid :)

Tires and rims are a good point with the r4 tires you have flotation and save your yard but no Traction until you get wheel spacers and put tire chains on. To get the ag tires on you need duals to get the same flotation equally especially when they are loaded it would be nice to know from a tire dealer if they can make a wider ag tire in the 24" rim diameter so it's almost the same as the r4 or make a ag tire for a 43×16.00R20 they would make money and we wouldn't have to pay extra for special rims to be made with no waste

What is the situation at the 4:14 time stamp with the drone view of the tiller ? Looks like a significant angle between tiller axis and tractor axis. Is this a secret to make the tiller more effective or is there some other situation going on here ? 3pt links are different length ? lateral supports left loose so the tiller can dodge occasional rocks or roots ? Just curious. Mine does the same thing. BTW: in spring when my gravel driveway was mushy after a thaw, I used my tiller to 'freshen' the gravel layer, them comb it with my landscape rate. Just as good as new gravel application. From constant use, the gravel tends to sink & disperse. The tiller brings it back to the top.

Good point about how many hp u need. I have a 25 acre block I have recently cleared about 15 and need to start slashing, a friend reckons the old fellas used to work the area with 30-40hp tractors, but I am thinking of a 90hp JD 6300 with cab, for stability & safety reasons, due to some of the aggressive slopes and terrain on this property, Im not keen on paying for the extra fuel, but I think the safety factors and added abilities of a larger machine greatly out way the considerations of hp and fuel usage. Bigger isn’t always better, but often it is as there is no substitute for a lack of power, an older, larger, half decent machine with many hours, will probably do a safer job, quicker, for my purposes, for many years to come.

About R14 i think Messicks were on a LX3310 if i remember correctly. What i don't understand is that Kubota and Good Year said it was a Kubota exclusive but ive seen them on Kioti and other brands. You even put them on a 4r or 4720 right?

R14 - Kubota does offer R14, you can view tire options on Kubota's website. Maybe they don't have an option for that size tractor?

I have an 04 Grand Prix with over 4,500 hrs engine run time according to the information display. I haven’t used the car to move piles of dirt lately or run a tiller but the little V6 isn’t built like a diesel engine either. She still runs great though! Just saying.

My first tractor was small for me, so it got traded in with 55 hours or so. Someone presumably got a great deal on it.

What's better your 1025r or the Summit?

I definitely want to know how to find the R14T tires. No Goodyear tractor tire dealer I've talked to seems to know anything about them. My local Kubota dealer nor my local Deere dealer knows anything about them. I want a set for my 2520 Deere.

do a review of a branson 2515h or 2515r i personally have the h and it a great machine

Looking for a sub-compact with a loader and backhoe just for moving dirt, rock and logs at my camp property. The local dealer is Mahindra. Otherwise I would look at other makes. The emax 20S is the only one available. Nobody has the emax 22L or 25L. What are your thoughts on the 20S?

So, does rim guard really have an affect on the valve stems? Mike Morgan noted in one of his latest videos, the tire shop he uses stopped using rim guard........thoughts?

Tried to lift too much on the forks on my little 24hp on a slight sideways hill with a 500 lb boxscrape on the back. It picked the rear up and went downhill and bent my loader arms/brackets so mine will definitely lift enough to break something lol

Some misconceptions for me besides what you mentioned: 1) Try first, read the instructions only when all else fails. The risk of injury is a lot more than operating your new headphones 2) I can lift it, so it's not that heavy. When operating smaller tractors, that pivot point/balance matters more than you think. 3) Do not worry about how it works, just what it does. Great way to get hurt. 4) The pins are round. Why should I grease them? If you don't have quick attach, pins like 3 point are WAY easier to get in/out if they are greased. 5) Checking my work is a waste of time. Bent my backhoe hitch pin because I didn't bother to verify the lynch pin was holding the hitch pin. 10 extra seconds would have saved me a lot of grief. 6) A car handles a flat road fine, so I must be able to floor it in my tractor. It only goes 15mph anyway. When hitting bumps in a tractor, it's very uncomfortable to be going at speed. As in, it feels like you may die (probably because you may). Fluid filled tires splash around. Not great. 7) I am only adding hydraulic fluid. I shouldn't need gloves. Apparently, that stuff is caustic. Getting even a little on your fingers can make them chap and get dirt in the skin which doesn't heal for a week. Get a box of disposable gloves and save the grief. 8) Adjustable wrenches solve all your wrenching needs. Sometimes you need two. The big ones are obnoxiously big, but even what seems like a big wrench may not open as big as you think. 9) Why do I need storage? I'm just sitting on the tractor. Rags, wrenches, extra pins, spare shear bolts, recovery strap, and other smaller sized tools can be very handy. Running back to "base" every time you need something is more inconvenient than you think. 10) 4WD means I can handle this hill. 4WD may let you go up/down, but depending on the angle, you might tip, or lose traction anyway. 11) Run the tractor close to idle. It's a hydrostatic transmission, so it'll just ramp up as needed anyway. When doing jobs such as using the PTO, or backhoe, you may benefit from raising the RPMs which raises the hydraulic pressure or PTO speed. Mine has a 540 RPM mark on the RPM meter. Just a few I could think of at the top of my head.

My theory is the guys who worry about putting hours on their tractors don't understand diesel engines and more than likely were into older gasoline powered garden tractors. Those engines in those machines where barely 1500 to 2000hr engines, so a lot of the older kohler and onan engines get a bad rap because they were well used way past what they were meant to be run. 300 hrs on those tractors 20% of the life used up, 300 hrs on a diesel your just barely breaking it in.

A good seat matters.