You've Probably Never Seen A Concrete Pour Like This Before, Insulated Kiln Slab 

Absolutely we will follow Nyle Sytems, great to learn more about them..! Thanks Nathan for sharing your vast wealth of knowledge with us.

Hey you should have broken up the foam to allow some of the concrete to sit on more solid base instead of totally relying the foam to support the full 4x8 area of weight

So Sean I'm a hotel engineer, I've learned not all self proclaimed pros are just that. A pro roofer installed my neighbors roof, said mine a friend n I installed would leak as we didn't metal In Valleys, in ten years not at all. His on neighbours has leaked 3times,take my advice, keep yours to your self. I would build it the same as this!

@@davidgaston9144 Dont know what stuff a hotel engineer works on, but you have no idea of concrete and building. John Ye is right: That job does not make any sense. And no, we are not "self proclaimed" pros. With concrete, we are pros and you for sure not, when I read you would have done it the same. Hardcore on a DPC (does not even look like one and wont do the job the way he laid it) + concrete on top = perforation. You would need something like 6mm chips. Fiber reinforced concrete instead of mesh for this small job? Too expensive if steel fibres and if poly fibres, its wrong situation for using it. Fiber reinforced w/o bars on each side? What he's trying to insulate with all these gaps? Its not even same distance from the 4 sides if he considered statics for walls. Insulation board not covered with plastic to avoid concrete sucked it? And whats the crack with the exposed insulation on all sides? He cant even cover it with blocks etc. because his concrete foundation is not big enough and ends with the insulation on each side. No, this is a poor job and an engineer of any kind should see that using common sense. Stay away from concrete and better listen to those with experience, like John Ye.

@Coinguy American Its like I tried to explain my my other answer. But let me try again: - the white plastic... Would guess its a DPC. But its gets perforated on 20mm hardcore, so its useless. - not even sure if that white plastic is a DPC. Its somehow humpy dumpy laying on the ground and does not look strong enough to act as dampness barrier. - But I would put a DPC on 6mm chips (we call it "chips" if its round w/o edges). There are other materials to put a DPC on, but 20mm hardcore (edges) is not right. Just the weight of the concrete will cause holes. - I don't understand the perimeter with insulation foam on the outside. Why is that? It has no benefit unless you have a UFH. But it serves no purpose, because of the 1-2 feet around w/o insulation boards flat. - Why is there no insulation board in the right front corner? Not enough material? - Why all the insulating boards "somewhere". The distance from front/end and left/right is different, so the "gaps" around are not for additional support of a wall. I guess we would take some measures and make it precise. But look at the photos of those Nyle systems. They have no walls that need that additional support. - The insulation boards are not flat with full contact on the ground. Air pockets underneath are a weak point - Here, where I live, steel fiber reinforced concrete is more expensive that concrete reinforced with mesh. I would not recommend a client to pay for that in such a situation. I would do the setup just bit different with either concrete block or poured concrete ring (maybe overengineered for what he needs). But I would do it much more precise and choose right materials. Its not about the general setup, its how the work is done. Just look at what happens with the insulation boards when he stands on them. They go up on one side. Once they go down again, for sure you dont have one solid area covered with insulation boards anymore. It caused movements, movements cause gaps, gaps causes a bridge for heat loss. And why does he screws the timber cladding with the insulation boards to the future concrete floor, but the insulation board not covering the entire outside? The timber will rot, the insulation boards will be exposed, .... Cant see any sense without further explanation. But happy to hear from you if you see it different.

Not! a) Insulation should cover the whole area b) Insulation board must be on dead flat compacted stone c) It should have steel reinforcing mesh, even though it is fibre-added concrete d) The sides of the slab should be on the ground, not as seen here, hanging in the poly membrane

Thanks for watching

Thanks 👍👍

:D

I like it u day it will keep flor warmer ?

Very!

Agreed

Working Concrete will sho nuff seperate the men from the boys...also makes 🍞🥩🧈🥗🥣supper taste real good after a day pouring and finishing. 😋😁

SOOPER AGREED, that is back breaking hard work, the skill of knowing when to move the boom, stop the flow and spread or let gravity spread itself truly is an art, skills obtained over time.

Here in Florida, a well season block crew doing a new house makes it look so damned easy. Each cinder block weighs about 35 pounds and they toss them around like they weigh ounces. I built pools but never did block work. Hats off to them.

@@rooftopvoter3015 i built a log house a few years back when i was younger (58). i laid 100 concrete blocks. my son in law mixed all the mudd and set scaffold as it was needed. thfirst day, i touht i would die lifting the blocks with both hands. by the fifth day, i was lifting them with one hand and laying them 3 times faster. 1000 blocks in two weeks.

yes sir, thanks for watching,

That's kneel,, but don't strain your education too much to remember that. And watching ''hi'' usually doesn't cause tears, but hunger.

Im 39 and wondered the same.

No knee problems is how *YET* was a concrete flat worker too for almost 30 years and for the first 10 years. knee pads are for wimps then after had my knee drained 3 times I finally wished up and realized why they're made and what for 🤣 Oh and the bad knees from motocross racing injuries didnt help either 😁...

I thought the same thing! It hurt my knees just watching!

HaHaHa, and I thought it was just me

@@kenuber4766 Same here ! 🤦🏻‍♂️

same here.

Thanks appreciate it

Thanks 👍

👍👍👍

no worries,

thanks for watching,

Thanks 👍

Thanks 👍

nice,

Thanks 👍

he is talking about a kiln.. not water insulation.. that slab will be shattered to pieces under a kiln

The monolithic footer not being insulated will thermally conduct a lot of BTUs.

Bullshit: A wet pour is a weak pour, the drier the pour the stronger it will be. You need to re-think your remark.

thanks for watching,

why did you use 1" pex?

@@alm7707 Heat the slab.

@@markjones9366 I know that, but why 1"? I used 1/2" heliopex in my floor, it holds 1/4 the heating fluid and keeps the floor a more even heat, at least that's what I feel. Costs a lot less too and fittings available everywhere for a lot less $

thank you sir,

Thanks 👍

looks like we will not be affected, thanks for watching Alana,

me 2, thanks for watching,

That's the plan!

thanks for watching,

Christopher Moore trowelling off concrete like that is a thing of beauty. My skills lie elsewhere.

I said the same thing. Bull float dude knew his stuff. Invaluable to have a guy this this on a concrete pour. Kudos to "Bull Float Dude".

Is he from Clinton possibly?

they put fiber mess in the concrete. fiber is used also like rebar. it bonds it tighter & more firm like brace wire. it also seals the surface of the slab with more grit

Fiber Mesh will keep it from cracking , and pouring water on the slab keeps it from "drying out" to fast.

poring this type of element is a process in timing & skill handling with the right tools & compound mixture a steady level foundation and accuracy the slab will be stable & Stern.

Thanks 👍👍

indeed, Christmas in august,

still use it for short slabs and smaller loads, sawmill will move in about two years closer to the new shop and kiln, I like to keep spread out so I can drive my tractor more, haha,

Thanks 👍

I pressure treat lumber as a trade. You got the wrong treatment level of wood for the application.

how long after you pour the slab do you sit the water on top?

@@jamesduff6937 straight away after troweling, finishing, brushing off is done , best of luck, make sure reinforcing mesh or bars aren’t to close to the surface either as sometimes micro cracks can appear from these

thanks David,

@@OutoftheWoods0623 You're welcome. Have a good evening.

Yes it will

thanks for watching,

Vapor barrier keeps ground moisture from travelling up into the concrete. Nothing to do with moisture moving out of the concrete.

@@deernutOO so who told the concrete which way the moisture needs to go? Are you saying the concrete won't drive moisture into the layers between it and the vb?

Of course. Especially under the heavy loads he plans to put on it. And without any reinforcement, this slab will crumble like a chocolate chip cookie in some 2 years.

I'm in Canada and that is exactly how we do our garage floors, the only difference is we also add rebar mesh overtop the styrofoam, which works good for us and I'm sure it worked out just fine for him.

@@patprop74 fiberglass rebar is the way to go. steel rusts and expands/ contracts. eventually cracking concrete. takes about two decades, but it will happen.

Wow impressive

that is not uncommon in cold storage sites....

I guess somebody paid a lot of money (in electricity) over a long period of time to freeze a lot of dirt! Did you determine that the coils were definitely needed, or was that a "just in case" type of thing? It seems like 12 inches of foam should be a pretty great insulator so I am just surprised the coils would be needed. I wonder how thick would the insulation need to be so that you don't need heating coils? Obviously I am not a civil engineer or an expert on thermal engineering.

@@mckenziekeith7434 it is a standard design. Usually freezer buildings are well below freezing. Here in Louisiana we have a lot of ground water so we are well aware of potential frost heave. Not putting heating coils would be a big mistake. FYI, I am a Civil engineer.

@@ddnaomi I could tell you were a CE. That is why I took this opportunity to ask you about it. Thanks for answering! I am an electrical engineer (by which I mean I have a bachelor degree in EE, not that I am a certificated PE which you probably are). But all engineering disciplines are interesting to me.

I can't see what all the "nut and bolt" comments are all about? What "force/holding"? The shuttering is already braced for the pour, once the concrete has set all those bolts are doing is holding the boards up and maybe a little, if any, pressure from the aggregate/hardcore? Surely once the concrete has set those boards do nothing?

thanks Tom,

thanks for watching,

thanks for watching,

Jimmy Hoffa's final spot will be revealed soon. My pal told me they have it and will do the reveal after the election. Perhaps January 2021.

W M C is your pal Italian and connected 😂😂😂

@@annotten7413 He is NOT Italian and, yes, he is connected as he makes connections.... perhaps some of them are older Mob-Types, or their direct relatives, say, a daughter or a neice. It's not all that cryptic. My pal applies and has applied intense manpower of the highest level to figure out 'what really happened' in a number of different worldclass cases. When he makes a big discovery he usually tells me what it is and when the reveal will happen.

W M C well let’s see what happens -- hopefully it’s not another Al Copen’s vault

Did anyone look under that kiln slab?

Yup, like 3/4" minus...lots of looseness and settling to happen with what he did, but hey, cracked floors are all the rage I guess...

@@BMWSRR-yd6do The purpose of the sub base is to provide a capillary break so that you don't have moisture in contact with the bottom of the slab. Washed rock is less likely to develop musty odor issues that can result from pit run or 3/4 minus type mixed material. Depth to water table and soil drainage characteristics may require washed rock to have a dry slab. Never saw a poly apr barrier under a slab that didn't have some punctures in it. It is amazing what one hole can do over time.

Please write more. 'Usually you have fines in sub base' meaning what? Finer material?

@@wmc9722 Here in the UK, we would use Type 1sub base,a granular material with a maximum permitted stone size of 63mm, graded down to dust.The smaller sizes fill the voids when compacted, giving a very firm base with no settlement.which important,so a concrete base,doesn't crack.

@@stuartandrews4344 I see. I am learning. Years ago I wanted to know all I could about CONCRETE and then I never went down that path, ended up working in finance. Now, my life is such that I can learn about concrete AND build whatever I want to build. I am trying to get an old Mediterranean house, 4000sqft, in a rich neighborhood and I'm going to build on to it, many ideas. Thanks for writing.

now that would have been a better idea, totally agree,

After its poured the 2x can rot or come out no point in replacing it. It's just a form for the concrete and the insulation can be back filled against also

pull the bolts out and replace with a big concrete anchors when the time comes. doubt that time wil ever come tho.

Those bolts don’t look worthy of the corrosive chemicals in modern treated lumber and definitely undersized, IMO. Also, did dude use a tamper.?

@@ronzahursky7018 The bolts are non-structural, only there to keep the form in place so it can protect the insulation's exterior for however long the form lumber will last. If the bolts aren't too far gone by the time the lumber is rotted through, he could cut off whatever is left of the heads, thread the ends and attach some vinyl decking planks or other long-lasting covering instead.

Ya that’s everywhere. Lumber shortage with the pandemic and when you can get it they charge you double. Should be considered gouging but they let that go too.

The price is plummeting in November already.

That’s how we do it adding chairs and rebar on the stego wrap.

Grant Smith hhh

A great deal more than this guy!!!...I'd like to see him scratching his head when his iso-boards start to float mysteriously...

Yup plastic on top of the boards

Hey Rich Vannatta....are you from north Jersey?

Yes, there should be at least one two or three inch square piece of metal with a nut on each side of it to give it something to bite onto, rather than simply pull right out. And not any rebar for support.

Day late, dollar short on that idea for here.

@@g.r.4853 Apparently he said he used fiber reinforced concrete for this pour. I still don't trust it to hold a slim bolt.

@@jmackinjersey1 I was thinking of going all the way to the other side for support. Short of placing 'all-thread' I may have used a nice stainless cable all the way from one side to the other.

@@wmc9722 For this application, I think that would be way too much over kill and costly. But I'm still not sure how he is going to attach the wall bottom plates to this concrete. I didn't see any bolts facing up.

Thanks. Appreciate you watching

almost,

I said the same thing to myself, however, I would have used the bucket to spread it out a bit. This guy made some serious mistakes in this pour. From loose concrete etc. etc..

@@dukeman7595 and not picking up the scraps a foam before the gravel, prolly not a huge deal, But i admit , i was cringing the entire time

Keyboard engineer right?

@@jimamccracken5783 No, I was actually a Mechanical Engineer licensed in Alberta, Louisiana, as well as California. I supervised heavy industrial construction projects in Canada, USA, Brasil, Algeria, Malaysia, Vietnam and Thailand. Good enough for you?

Fiber mesh pour

@@kellyovermyer6453 Fiber mesh is great, but it does not replace rebar.

@@Elite59 no it doesn't but on a small pour like that it makes sense

Thank you! Cheers!

At least pour a layer of crete that'll pretty much self level after putting the insulation on top of it. Then fill it the rest of the way i guess?

fiber is in the concrete it will not crack

@@9GSTEEL fiber stop cracking during the cure. It depends on the thickness. 2.5 feet for each inch thick. So if it's over 6 inches thick it should be ok that size, otherwise it needs a control joint.

yes been using him for years,

Thanks 👍

Yes, Fibremesh concrete.

Fiber mesh concrete is pure junk. It is put into low PSI concrete. Like 2500 psi. Any concrete can vary up or down in some cases depending on amount of water used as much as 1000 psi. I would never pour any concrete less than 3500 psi. Might cost up front but payoff in the end.

The area seems small enough it's not going to even need an expansion joint.

@@AmericanPatriot-1776 Not needed,only thing I don't like is using clean gravel without fines & not compacting it.

@@stuartandrews4344 , come on, he compacted it with the weight of half of the concrete needed, and no rebar.

i understand what your saying but you do realize that concrete weighs thousands of pounds there are definitely not any voids under the foam its just getting crushed into the ground and i have no idea why anyone would leave form boards on though lmao

@@jacobgomer I'm guessing to create a ledger board around the base for some sort of exterior insulation. You would then inset the frame the thickness of the insulated sheathing and have an airtight seal to the slab. Given its a kiln I'm guessing heat conservation is the main goal here.

@@jacobgomer There is no good reason for leaving the forms!

@@dukeman7595 i guess its probably to keep the foam board from getting wrecked