The clearance on this is lower than your Lamborghini. I’d recommend printing this if you’re getting a new printer. It usually is my first print! Designer: 3DMakerNoob Location: printables 116911 Filament: flashforge pla Printer: A1 mini #filament #3dprinter #3dprinted #gadget #tool #3digiprints
@@minhuang8848I still have zero clue what it is after watching 5times but then again I don't own or never have own a 3d printer so this explains nothing to me I was just swiping through shorts. 🤷🏾♀️
There are reasons 0.1 shouldnt come free like that. Mostly involving layer lines and filament edges with how they are inherently bumped in the middle. Might be slight underexteusion to gap the pieces further apart. But hey if it works it works and probably close enough for anything needing to be printed.
Why should it not? Clearance is clearance. But I'm a machinist and I work down to 50 millionths sometimes. So is 0.1mm/4 thou just out of the question?
@@littlejackalo5326 it basically means the slicer is cheesing it(or calibration not dialed in), the edges of wall extrudes have a curvature to the bead, the median of that curvature is more or less supposed to be the true shape. It's probably debatable to some degree, but basically his parts have some visible under-extrusion as well, therefore weaker structurally, but perform better on tolerance tests
If the 0.1 came off like that, someone (either you or the stock slicer settings) probably has some horizontal offset or other hack making the gap a lot larger than 0.1 mm, or extrusion is not calibrated right.
@@cinemoriahFPV No, I've seen Bambus printing overspaced gaps frequently in the 3dp toys for tots campaign, where folks printing often have to adjust wheel clearances so they don't fall off. Some sort of fudging is going on in the slicer or firmware.
@@cinemoriahFPV my Prusa did this print, it came off just fine, all the way down. But if you think that a 0.10mm gap on a *not spherical* part should come out like that, you're wrong. It literally shouldn't. If it did, something is cheating you on your friction fit.
Im a machinist for a custom bearing manufacturing company and .1 mm isn't a friction fit. U start to get a friction fit around .025 mm(temp being consistent at least). Anything above that just needs to be taken off or put on correctly. Basically straight and not cocked at all.
Clearance coins need super fine side definitions or it won't be perfectly circular and may even cause an artificial false negative or positive I've found spacings of
Could you get something like a caliper to confirm this? It's hard to believe the AI mini has that much precision for 350$ without *any* sort of measurement or measuring equipment to even check.
Pretty much any printer that's not utter shit has 0.02 mm positioning accuracy or better, but filament diameter tolerances and extruder issues are limiting for the final print.
Bro said “Clearance Coin” and my dumbass thought “Oh, the numbers are percentages that he will somehow stamp onto product to be put on clearance, seems useful”
I have an A1 and .1mm is my goto for parts that I want to snap together and stick. As the part shrinks over time they become very difficult to separate, no glue required. For parts that are intended to move I recommend higher. I use .5 and that has been extremely reliable for tiny gears with a module of 1mm.
As someone who doesn't own a 3d printer, nor has any shop experience besides my time watching This Old Tony, you can imagine my confusion for the first 2 times I watched this video.
What I have a ender 3 that I bought 5 years ago and never upgraded, I use 0.1 clearances for parts. Usually I match the clearance to the layer height or close to it. With a little bit of math u can find the error you have at layer heights and adjust for clearance if u want specific characteristics of parts
For those who are less familiar with 3D printing, the single "coin" in this video consists of the main body and six tabs which have been printed in place into individual sockets. Each tab has a different number which denotes the gap (clearance / amount of space) the printer was programmed to leave between the tab and the socket it is set into on the coin itself. With enough clearance, the tab won't stick to the socket, allowing the coin to spin freely. Smaller successful clearance numbers will result in less wobble/slop in the movement of the part in its socket. The smallest successful clearance gap is determined by the printer's print resolution in conjunction with the printer's accuracy. If the printer tries to create a clearance gap that is too small for its resolution and accuracy, the tab will be stuck in the socket and be unable to be rotated. A frozen joint, so to speak.
Eh, I'd be impressed if you actually measured things to prove that there were clearances like this. In over 30 years of using 3D printers, I've yet to find a machine in that class that even meets the maker's specs, let alone a tolerance of 0.1mm (I take it that's an all-round clearance, not just the diameter?)...
Really? My Ender 3 has been able too after a motherboard upgrade, proper alignment and proper calibration. Rail upgrades work wonders for adding high speed and acceleration, without compromising quality. Sure you have (had, mine is 4½y old now) to mess around with the cheap ones, but it's a hobby, so hours spend doesn't really matter a lot
I just tuned in my PrusaXL for LW-PLA. After some 20x20 mm single wall cubes, I printed a 40x40x40 cube and that one measures 39.98 x 39.99 x 40.00 mm I call that a nice calibrated printer :-)
@@Rob_65 Oh yes! I would say that's within tolerance. No really, that deviation is within the official tolerances we use in CNC produced metal industry/products, in fact that's within the "Fine" tolerance. Good job!
Have you ever used a 3d printer? When the tolerance is too low the printer fuses two pieces into one. When that happens, wall to wall, the piece is more likely to break elsewhere, in the infill. That is assuming you could break it at all. I used a hammer and a chisel to free one of mine and it was a chore and marred the pieces to hell
Perform an estep calibration / extrusion multiplier test for the printer/filament. I'm wondering if the printer isn't underextrudimg and giving inaccurate results.
I would recommend against it- as 99% of all 3D printing plastic isn't food grade, and as such will bleed off chemicals into the water, especially @ higher temps, & will likely kill your fish. That's why BHA & BPA was banned in baby bottles, because it would leak into formula @ as low as 73°F. (This is the same reason it's necessary to use only Type A (Grade1) Clear Silicone sealant & not window caulking to seal the tank. Any marine ecosystem is extremely sensitive. In some places just the faucet tap water is enough to throw it all out of whack/kill it. You're literally relying on the volume of water to dilute pollutants enough to be tolerable, but unless you've got at least a 1000-10,000+ gallon tank that's not viable. In theory it would be possible to recycle milk/soda bottle plastic & do it that way, but your going to have lots of small surface leaks from gaps/air bubbles trapped when printing with it. If those small issues aren't a problem for you go for it. I don't think there are any food grade plastic sealant to take care of that- if so, I don't know of one. Epoxies, resins, lacquer's, varnishes, acetone, etc are all a no go for that. Maybe ethanol after it was fully dried/evaporated? Also when making & printing soda/milk filament you might want to use a new nozzle unless you can thoroughly clean the one you use for printing or do a few purges to avoid cross contamination from the other plastics.
i always modeled my parts with a .3mm gap for tolerances so i never had to worry about parts going together for anyone who downloaded them but didnt have the best tuned printer but since ive gotten my bambu lab p1s ive started modeling everything with a .1mm gap an the p1s kills it. i plan to pick up a couple more bambu machines to replace some of my older printers b ut i dont know if i should get different printers like the a1 an x1 or if i should just stick to the p1s an get multiple of the same machine.
