Thanks for sharing your experience! I have all of my parts here in a box and about to delve into the wold of sharpening (after a lot more research on the sharpening system install and and more sharpening videos haha) Your video is my first (of many likely) and has me from bewildered to the beginnings of confidence so thank you! :) Oh, I ordered a gouge set not really knowing anything about anything. Turns out they are v-flute and I was moreso expecting/assuming parabolic. Do I need separate research for this flute shape/style you think or can the same principals apply regardless of flute shape??
I think the same sharpening principals apply. The flute serves the purpose of clearing the shavings. As long as you are able to obtain the desired profile at the front of the tool you will be fine. Best of luck on your journey!
Thanks, glad it helped you. No, I do not have a video about how to re-shape a pointy spindle gouge. In hindsight I could have included it in this video. Check out my video on sharpening a bowl gouge. I describe a process similar to what you are asking.
Isn't this just a variation on French polishing? I thought it was very prone to moisture effect and handling. Am I wrong? How does this stand up to handing in a useable object?
Yes it is. I have luthier training and am very familiar with french polishing an instrument. I find the technique in this video to be much more durable. I think it is because it is applied much thinner and the heat from the friction seems to burnish the finish in. I have never had a problem with the finish degrading from either age or handling.
That last set up for the small stock is too close to my fingers for me! Id rather use an hand held planer with the stock held in a vice. Or use a belt sander. I like my finger tips too much!
Sorry if it bothers you. I was an elementary school Physical Education Teacher for 40 years. When I am in teaching mode I revert to an animated voice pattern that would help make the kids maintain focus. Blame it on the day job.
4/2024 watching again, again. My first lidded box is struggling. Lid little loose, and my teacher did it different way. I want to yours start to finish.printing out notes
I'm glad this works for you. I have a 3 car garage, fully finished with doors like yours. I'm not sure which of the two units I have since it was given to me but when it's in the 20's outside, I can't seem to get the temp above 55 with this heater. I'm disappointed with it so far.
Yes I do believe it matters. There is a recommended range. I don't remember the exact distance, but you can reference the Wolverine instructions online. Having the Wolverine jig mounted at the same height as the base of the grinder works really well.
Just stumbled across this video. And just like another commenter said, many boring videos not showing the basics. Like yours. Thank you, I was about to return my tools for woodturning.
Glad the video helped to eliminate the point and you were able to obtain a better shaped tool. As for as the sparks go..... what type of wheels do you have on your grinder? My wheels are CBN so it's metal on metal thus it produces sparks. If your wheels are stone then not so much.
Is your spur just a single point or does it have small blades beside the point like the one in my video? If it is like the one in my video the solution is easy. It is spinning because it is not tapped in deep enough and you are not screwing it in tight enough.
@@daveswoodshop782 I am very new to this. We can seem to get the spur in deeper, don't know what we are doing wrong. It is just like the one you have with the "wings"
@@tracykerr2250 What species of wood are you using. Are you putting the drive spur into end grain? Have You tried another piece of wood as this piece might be bad? What type of tailstock are you using? Does that look similar to mine? if it does you have to tighten it enough so that the spur completely penetrates the wood and the outer circle is tightly against the wood.
Hello, thanks for your informations, you explained my problèm. When i sharped, my gouge was too pointy, i think it's because i stayed on the wing a lot in relation to the tip of the gouge. Tomorrow i'll try to focus on the tip to see if it's more rounded. Thank you
Thank you Dave, for an excellent, no-nonsense, crisp, to the point, very informative, without any background music, instructional video about the parting tool. You are truly a wonderful instructor.
Your spindle gouge will come with a pre-determined angle. If you are happy with it just move the vari-grind pocket in or out till the angle of the tool sits flush to the wheel. If you want to increase or decrease the angle you would move the pocket closer or further away accordingly. You can purchase an inexpensive tool to accurately measure the angle on the tool. Once you find an angle that you are happy with you can make a mark on the pocket extension so that you can replicate the angle or you can build/buy a jig that will allow you to replicate the pocket's distance from the wheel.
Dave, great job on the video. I made a bandsaw sled a few years ago for cutting circles. It has an adjustable pivotpoint for almost any size circle. Later I added a fence for cutting small pieces, it's much safer than a table saw or chop saw. Recently I added another removable fence for resaw jobs. Band saws are very versatile. Now I will add the miter gage for cutting acurate angles. :)
Very cool. I ended up buying a commercial circle cutting jig for my bandsaw because I had a project where I needed to have the circle cut and not enough time to make the jig. It's a shame but I don't even use that now as I have a large CNC machine. I just secure the wood and end up with a perfect circle with little effort. Frees me up to work on the other creative aspects of a project. I totally agree with you about the bandsaw being much safer than a table saw, especially with cuts on small pieces.
@@daveswoodshop782 I'll let you know once I receive the spindle gouge. I tried the ABC thing with skew chisels, and it cuts so much better with a lower chance of catching... but it's really limited when used this way. I had more success shaping with skews when I use it as a scraper.
@@taiwanluthiers Glad to hear it is starting to work out. It is all about the angle of the skew chisel to the wood as well as how much you lift the handle (depth of cut). Just don't let the points get near the wood until you learn how to use them. With practice I actually got to the point where I could turn a square turning blank into a round spindle very quickly with a Skew rather than a roughing gouge.
I do not believe it will work. The concrete dust would probably clog and destroy the filter system. Also if you use water for cooling and dust control it definitely would destroy the Jet Dust collector. It is made for wood dust and chips. The Jet collector costs $1699. I did some research and they do make dust collectors for concrete grinders.
I have been following these instructions but the spurs end up ripping out of the center when I apply pressure. Am I applying too much pressure? I am using carbide tools. Any help would be appreciated.
Without seeing what is happening it is difficult for me to say. With that said.....If the spur is tearing up the wood while it is spinning it may be possible that the wood is not secured tight enough and is spinning loose resulting in the tearing. If it is ripping the wood before you even start turning then it might be too tight. I tighten just enough so the wood does not spin free of the spur while I am cutting.
