A channel dedicated to my hobbies revolving around technology, yes even my guitar is electric. My first classic computer was an Amstrad CPC in the 80s, since then I've been lucky enough to own a plethora of different consoles and built my own PCs for well over 20 years! In late 2019 I finally took the plunge into the exciting world of Virtual Reality. The videos on this channel allow me to showcase my interests and help educate others to do them as well.
Devices used: Shield TV (2015 model) 1TB Seagate Firecuda SSHD as adopted storage via USB 3 enclosure Nokia 8 Phone, Nexus 7 Tablet Oculus Rift S & Quest 2 VR HMD
PC specs: Windows 10 Pro (64bit) Intel i7 2600K (OC'd to 4.5GHz) EVGA CLC 240mm X2 120mm Noctua Fans Asus Sabertooth Z77 Motherboard 32GB Kingston Fury DDR3 RAM (@1866MHz) EVGA GTX 1080Ti 11GB FTW3 GPU Two Crucial MX500 Sata SSDs. 500GB (OS Drive) + 1TB (Game Drive) Four assorted 3.5 inch HDDs for Hyperspin, Roms, Movies, Music etc.
This worked great for me for a couple months, but now I can’t get it to track in-game. Opentrack and aitrack work great on their own but I can’t get dcs to pick up any input. I have checked all my settings in dcs and trackir is enabled and all other settings seem good
Hmmmm strange. Perhaps a recent update with DCS has caused problems. I haven't played it in a long time and would need to reinstall to test it. Maybe check their forums, see if anyone else has a solution
this “ ACTUALLY WORKED” oh my god I reinstalled the game so many times and watched a lot of videos and this JUST INSTANT FIXED IT ON WINDOWS 11 You deserve more subs man ❤
I recently bought this because my Infinity died :( It is nice overall, it does the job until I find an amp for the Infinity and then the Edifier is going to the bedroom :) I must say that +10db for the sub is way too high, and that's probably why you are keeping it at a lower volume. I give mine +3db and I'm close to half way on the actual sub and also my crossover set in the AV receiver is 80Hz. I think that's the "magic" number that blends everything well for me. Of course I'm not saying that your settings are wrong or anything of that sort, just sharing mine. What works for me doesn't necessarily mean it'll work for everybody. I haven't experienced any problems with waking up the sub, you don't need to crank up the volume, I think you just need something with a low enough frequency to hit it. The same thing was with the Infinity. It would not wake op on just dialogue and bells.
The +10 dB for a PCM signal is a setting on my Sony DN1080 AVR which by default is "Auto", so it could be on for some users without them realising. Maybe the +10 helps with bringing the sub out of standby, I don't know. It is something a lot of people have mentioned having to crank the volume to wake the sub. Like you I've had no real issue with it but I'm mainly using this for movies not music. The Crossover setting will depend on the speakers used with the sub. I gave the rule of thumb method which is +20Hz to the lowest frequency the speaker is rated for. If I put my old KEF Coda 2 book shelf speakers back in then it would be 80Hz, these KEF KHT sat. speakers 100Hz is fine. As I said in the video there is a lot to learn about speakers and setting things up correctly, I can't cover it all in this video. Glad to hear you're relatively happy with the sub. I think for the price it's pretty good for near field listening or small rooms. Hope you get your Infinity up and going again soon!
@@Honosuseri Hey, thanks, man. The funny thing is I just crank mine to +6db because at really low volumes (-50db) and not enough bass it goes in standby. I don't have the mic with my receiver, so I'm setting it up all manually. For small rooms it's a good sub, I couldn't tell it apart from my Infinity, even though it's half the volume.
How does this throttle works with Elite Dangerous? I pre orered it but I'm worried how Elite is handling those 3-way switches? I'm also thinking about VKB STEC throttle or Gladiator NXT Evo with Omni throttle and I can't decide.
I personally found I didn't really need to use the 2 and 3 way switches for Elite Dangerous. The push buttons on the base along with the rotary encoders were enough, combined with the buttons on the throttle grip and those I had on my flight stick.
Thank you for such a comprehensive overview of what this compact sub will do, will not do and should never be expected to do. For editing of archive material, which I shall be digitising before the whole, very large analogue archive is sold for university use, I find that enough is the goal of the task and that smaller subs such as this have an important function. Currently, subwoofers for so-called "audiophiles" are madly expensive and stuffed with software dependent electronics which will only last as long as the companies do. Much of the price is based on the 'furniture' element much more than shifting air using simple physics in a given space. Your comments about the "sub crawl" made me smile because we have all done it and trial and error will lead to the right placement more certainly than fiddling with an 'app' on a mobile phone. Briefly on "port chuffing", I recall decades ago when working with the BBC (as relaxation from my day job) and seeing engineers concocting diffusers from many materials to slow down displaced port air and avoid the effect. On the whole they agreed that if an occasion required very loud bass and transsonics then bigger was better or using a Voight tube design but they also said that human hearing apparatus could be damaged by such anyway. Use cases were quite rare and tended to be during the Stockhausen era and the famous cellar sessions with such as Hendrix and Zeppelin. They wore ear protectors and so did the musicians. In recent years recording and mixing of 'pop' music has drifted towards artificial loudness after various types of compression of separate mic inputs from different instruments and voices. Low frequencies are added to depending on the type of music being sold and replicating what is streamed or on a physical labeled product in live performance. Subscribed.
this is great, did the c64 tapes label texture look right? mine is all croped wrong i try to fix it with another resolution but nothing . aniway nice setup
The artwork for discs and tapes etc. wasn't made for use in VR, it was to display on monitors in frontends like Hyperspin, RetroFE etc. I've had to make a few labels for the Amiga floppy disks. Texture doesn't bother me, they look okay at a distance.
Bro, you wouldn't believe how many videos and forums I've watched about this topic, how many times I've deleted and installed the game. I could only find the solution in you, I am grateful for this video.
Cool Video! But i have a Question. Can i only play CitraVR with a gamepad on the Quest 2? I tried to pplay with the Quest 2 Controller, but it didn't worked
@@Honosuseri I deleted the app and this time used the same version that you were using. Unfortunately this still doesn't work. The emulation also doesn't work properly. As soon as I start the game, the big screens come up, but I'm still in the menu. As soon as I close it, I also exit Citra. Can you help me?
Super 3d! 😂 I did try something similar, but render the output on PC to stereo and save the file. For some reason any player I tried failed to play the atmos track. Either it was silenced or player chose next track. Maybe because it was usb to monitor to another usb extender and then DAC. I'll try again with direct audio jack on PC. I do envy your setup :) For me to try this setup would mean buying the expensive equipment and then also new apartment where to set it up :p
Thanks! It can be a faff multiplexing the Atmos track into the 3D version of the film that didn't get it, ensuring the audio is in sync. I have tried Dolby Atmos over headphones, it's really not worth paying for the feature. Yes audio output was weird even for me, hence me going over how to set it up and testing the speakers in the room properly. My AVR also has a weird "bug" where if you set the height speakers as Top Middle there is no sound from them in DTS:X, Top Front it works for Atmos & DTS:X Remember you can gradually expand the setup. Start with the AVR and two speakers and build it up from there, subwoofer was the last thing I added to the system. I have this 5.1.2 setup in a fairly small room in a semi-detached house. Okay it wasn't cheap cheap (like the Budgie) but I had set a budget. Sony DN 1080 AVR (used), Edifier T5 subwoofer (new £130) KEF sat. speakers (used). Whole setup inc. cable was less than what people are paying for the Sonos Arc soundbar new...I know I get a better experience than just the Arc. Even just having the Height speakers up high on the front wall works reasonably well to be honest.
@@Honosuseri I didn't know you could slowly upgrade atmos system. Tx! I'm still going to try out AirPods Max at some point - I've red some articles that they do have very good soundstage and Atmos sounds incredible on these - but it might be that they do sound the best with Apple TV only in regards of Atmos.
7 channel AVR's for Atmos/DTS:X are pretty affordable now, that will limit you to only 2 height speakers though. Stepping up to 9 or 11 channel AVR's, then it's a pretty big jump in price. These then allow atleast 4 height speakers so the sound can move around above you. It's a matter of preference but I enjoy 5.1.2 with sound around and above me rather than all 7 channels being used for speakers at ear level (I've tried both). All the best let me know what you think of the headphones!
@@Honosuseri Thanks, it'll take some time to get those headphones but I'll get back on it. This years budget for getting already one 500+ earphones is full :P One more question, you said that when video is top and bottom, then you'll get really good quality. Is it related to Virtual Desktop and how it works? You have your monitor and on that showing top and bottom takes up maximum amount of pixels? I don't think if playing in native Quest player eg Skybox it would not matter, right? Then you don't get the dolby ofcourse, but just trying to understand the logic.
@@HannesKirsman SBS (side by side) and Tab (Top and bottom) are two different ways of doing 3D. SBS the image is more squished together. TAB keeps the width of the image. I think I prefer TAB but I do have content in SBS. Although sometimes I have to change the aspect ratio to 16:9 to stretch the image for SBS.
thank god and you that I found this video. I'll assume that the .dll file that we deleted was trying to scan the PC the game was being run on and being unable to do so, consumed more and more RAM crashing in the process. getting rid of the file most likely allowed the game .exe to skip the process going straight to launching the game. AND IT WORKS!
