Hi Thank you for watching my videos The content posted under this channel is to promote and improve machining and math skills for general machinist My goal is two parts first post educational machining videos that improves skills Second part post math content for general machinist common core up to level three red seal apprentices "Apprentice Math"
Lol I could have used this info a while back. I had to put holes in a new blade for my friends tractor bucket. That was an adventure. I made slow progress with cobalt bits, constantly resharpening, I actually enjoy sharpening drill bits. The whole world disappears and its just me, the bits and the grinder. I ended up using a cutting torch which made quick work of it.
Thank you. I am adding a bunch to my Jon not build… I shall now go back over them and make sure they were fully crimped! I stopped at the first squeeze.
Very impressive: all for the cost of a few masonry drill bits! I am going to try to re-grind the masonry drill bits using the small diamond discs used in Dremel type tools as I already have them and only need to drill 4mm holes in hardened steel. Many thanks.
Not bad, 100% correct with how much “out of square” the block is when dividing total indicator reading by 2. I definitely recommend your “new” indicator stand so that you can rotate the stand to high point on both sides. Eliminating surfaces when measuring tight tolerance is key, meaning getting rid of the round dowel pin in between work piece and indicator stand, it’s just more surfaces. Anyway good video.
For those using this reference,please be mindful that in a Ontario C of Q exam there are NO "none" of the above questions.There are only ever 4 possible answers with 2 answers being completely wrong and 2 being similar,with 1 correct.When considering the answer,and are still unsure,READ the question again,and again..and again if not sure...WHAT are they asking for? That will help.When you look at it in that sense it really is a 50-50 question,and may help ease anxiety.Although this may be a good reference in a general sense,it is not a good reference for a true C of Q exam
It seems one reason the bits were breaking was you were using a drill press. If it were solid mounted in a Bridgeport, or similar machine, I think you could have got away with one bit. Your masonry bit is also fairly long, letting it wander. It's an interesting concept, in the case I ever have to drill something super hard. Wasn't that a HSS end mill that you were trying to drill? how would you drill a similar 7/8ths/1" (whatever diameter it is) pure carbide end mill??
Excellent presentation of information - thank you. YT used to be a place that was about sharing knowledge and where passionate experts shared. Today there is a lot of hot air and nonsense. It's a pleasure to find a teacher on here again. With respect to inactive cutting oil DIY solution (with its magic 95% composition :P ). Different cooking oils have different smoke points where they break down - but also importantly where their wettability changes. This is the principle behind "seasoning" cast iron. Normally an oil poured on cold metal will "ball up" due to high surface tension. I'm not super informed on when higher smoke point oils begin to lose that and spread out vs low smoke point. I wonder if they would be more helpful than Vege oil in extending its use? Olive oil has less heat capacity so it might be worse? (also goes rancid very easily). For your light machining fluid would the use of an oil like avacado or other with high smoke point make it more effective? Drilling mild steel or using hole saws - your inactive solution would be ok? How about "Gummy" metal like Aluminium? 2nd Topic: BIOFILM Machinery that circulates fluid like a cutting agent is at risk of bacteria forming what is called "Biofilm". This is what plaque on your teeth is as example, or the slimy layer on a pipe. Bacteria produce biofilm to breed and protect from threats. Bacteria in a biofilm is 500x more resistant to killing than free bacteria. This means that bacteriocidal cutting fluid may not clean out an "infection" if your machine is gummed up with algae or whatnot through its feed tubes and channels. It may be necessary to use a flushing agent that will break down biofilm and remove it. I'm talking soft bacterial growth - not calcified formation or calcified bacterial growth which can also occur long term due to mineralised water sources. Oil/Grease or other contaminant buildup/blockage is different too. Detergent will clean oils... might not clean biofilms. Something like hypochlorite (bleach) will work but will take time to break down the gunk and need flushing through. An algicide may also be required as an alternative. See pool or spa supplies. Afterward you would want to flush very thoroughly to ensure no damage is done to components and then fill with your new cutting fluid.
An outstanding presentation! Special thanks for being considerate and lowering the irritating background volume. 99% of youtube videos have a volume which destroys the eardrums and renders the useful speech useless.
You might have had a Hastloy insert which is still harder than HSS. Stellite (I worked at a Union Carbide plant in 1966) where stellite was manufactured. It was only a few points below most tungsten carbide. It was hard. I don't remember the exact chemistry but it had cobalt, chromium, and ???? It was not machinable, so it had to be cast and them finished by diamond grinding. We made many turbine blades for jets using Hastaloy which would maintain strength and stability in a red heat. We made thousands of valve seats for Caterpillar by casting rings then grinding to final shape.
The thermal expansion and solution that I am not allowed to do, what else I can do? The piece and the vise must be square for the product, 15 degrees not an option unfortunately for my case :(.
Cool. Ive been sharpening drills for many years, that magnifier helps so much. From my experience 1 in 10 bits are straight(cheap or not) which can cut many many holes. The angle of the angles doesnt matter but the edges have to be identical. Good eyes can notice an out of round bit, but a good hole proves it.
I leave the negative angle in, but sharpen the cutting edge. The tip will then not break so easily. Drilling force will be higher, but that is OK as most of the load on the edge is in compression, which the carbide can take. (If you look at drills for removing taps, they have negative edges.) You need to slow the speed, apply sulfur cutting oil, & drill steadily rather than peck so much. Contrary to popular opinion, "carbide" is not pure tungsten carbide; it is a composite of powdered carbide bonded with cobalt which can melt. You need to limit tool temperature with reduced speed & coolant, just like when using high speed steel. Be very careful when encountering intersecting cross-holes (as you did in the milling cutter)& at break-through.
I think it's more accurate to call it "telescoping," rather than "telelscopic" because that's the kind of thing I think about all the time whether I want to or not.
I'm assuming this works on truck-spring to, I always have to torch drill on that stuff which ok since I'm not using truck-spring as truck-spring, but still like to get a round hole..........
Not sure if anyone else mentioned it but grinding carbide is a serious health hazard... wear a good mask for safety... I have done this masonry bit trick many times myself... works great ! 🤗 😎👍☘🍻
An elegantly cheap solution to an expensive problem. A few things could have been done a little different but overall it accomplished what I needed to know and I am well pleased with this video - GOOD WORK!
I feed in with my cross slide when threading. However I still set the compound to 29 degrees so I can shift the cutter if I need to tweak the thread a bit. Still enjoying your videos!
Hi Ray, you have an excellent tool to do the job. I am in Australia (yes, the backward country) ....Is there a supplier in America to order this tool from? 🤔
Hi Steve, I’m not exactly sure what you’re asking There are some videos that use glass cutters, which are carbide tipped cutters on the end they have a flat on the contact area, and they’re kind of shaped like teardrop Back in the day, when windows were basically pieces of glass that slid back-and-forth inside of a plastic track There was a plastic bolt, basically that screwed through the window, which allowed you to slide the window open and closed The previous mentioned style of drill is what they used to drill through the glass I hope that was the question that you’re asking. If not, please feel free to comment again. Thank you Rhea
Yes, a centre cutting end mill would work as well The concept that I was trying to do with the last three drill videos was to show that a person with the minimum amount of tools can drill hard and material with minimal cost If you look at the shop that this video is filmed in there are millions of dollars of equipment and much better ways of drilling the hole in a end mill In my next drilling video, I will try to explain that concept better Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting. It is much appreciated.
In my case, it wasn’t a smaller grit The dressing sticks are made with a weaker bond, so they break apart easier In the shops that I have worked at, we only had box of dressing sticks for all of the different grits of diamond wheel
The solutions will not work for all situations, but some of the things that I’ve done to remove stuck arbours I have used a pneumatic chisel with a blunt and to help loosen things up I have also used heat to sweat something apart It is important that you know when to use these Ideas because using them in the wrong situation, could damage the equipment and could also injure yourself I hope that this helps Ray
