i just received my 80W auto focus and want to put it in the garage yet I am in Houston where summer temps can range into the 90's. I ordered the chiller to use and a couple of fan to move air. Do you believe I need to dehumidify and cool the air?
Hey! The owners manual recommends a certain humidity and environmental temperature to operate in. I honestly don’t have a lot of experience with the impact on the laser. It would be a safe bet to follow those guidelines in my opinion.
Great video. And for anyone who is on a real budget and cannot afford a lot of tools, this is perfect. I have tool but cam appreciate making this way so that everyone can have something that look nicer. Also, these would be a great cabinet refresh for rental properties. If they get messed up by a bad tennant, its an easy and cheap replacement, while looking modern and stylish.
😂😂 it’s a relevant scale considering the application of printing off tools in the U.S. as for recording measurements for the actual modeling jobs I think mm makes much more since due to the accuracy. Funny comment though haha.
Hey! No, not really. Plywood in my opinion feels a little more substantial but either should perform the same. I’d probably go with what is more affordable and/or more readily available. You really should sand the plywood before use and can likely get away with using the mdf without that step so it might be a little less work.
OK, I was going to make this because I also want to store my planer under my workbench, but then it hit me, why not just make a "flip top" cart, but don't but a second tool, at least not permanently attached to the other side of the flip surface? This way, when the planer is flipped it will store under the bench, you can then pull it out, flip it to the up position for use. Benefit of this option, is when it is in down position, you can use the alternate top of the flipped surface to put another tool on, basically additional bench area. I will make one and post a link
My latest jig was to make a through mortise I made a jig that hade the hole with a ledge for my chisel so I could hold it perfectly vertical and in the exact spot. I made the same type of hinge jig but I put ledges so the y indicate perfectly with no fuss.
That’s awesome! It’s a neat problem solving technology. I love that once you have the file you can print unlimited copies in case you beat them up when you use the jig.
Thank you! Great question! I’ve been using sketchup to draft my woodworking projects for a while now. You can also use that to produce 3D models for printing. There are a bunch of great tutorials online. I learned how to use it in an afternoon, granted I wasn’t making spaceships with it, but able to make basic items pretty fast and easy.
Loved this video! I am planning to redo all my cabinet doors and was hoping to make a “thinner” door and this will work great. Is the 1/8 inch panel ACTUALLY MDF , or is is tempered hardwood? For some reason I can’t find 1/8 mdf where I live.
Mine is mdf, might be listed as 3mm sheet. I have some hardboard as well and while I haven’t used it for the panel before, I don’t think it would cause any issues to use that instead. I say this without experience using that material for that purpose of course so take that with a grain of salt.
Thank you Lynn, Of course! It’s “clary sage” satin finish, using a “cabinet and furniture paint” base to help mitigate wear and tear. my wife picked it up at Lowe’s. I think the color manufacturer is sherwin Williams!
Great video! Thanks for all the helpful info! And forget the haters commenting about the extra tools needed to make a really good quality cabinet door….they can certainly not use a track saw or jigs and make themselves wonky cabinet doors! Question-I can’t find the $0.50 paint can pourer; where did you get it?
By the way no need to purchase the Slam Simulator. All you need is a teenage girl and tell them they can't do something they want to do. I speak from experience. Girls slam stuff and boys stomp and throw stuff.
If you do design something that other people are interested in, you don't need to have a print farm to sell them. You could either contract it out to an already existing print farm. Or if it is something that could sell in mass, then you can use your prototype made with 3D printing to find a manufacturer to make it for you!
lol dramatic? I doubt it’s the worst to recommend haha. I haven’t had any issues with mine but also don’t have any experience with the Bambu machines. From the specs the P1S is slightly larger than the K1 and similar everywhere else except it has a camera but $300 more expensive. I’m not saying it’s not worth $300 more but any tool that costs that much more than the other in my experience better be worth the price jump. Again, not defending one over the other, I only have my experience to provide.
@@WoodNerds if you value your designs , want to sell them, and don't want them stolen immediately don't buy a bambu. They run all your data through a cloud system in china before your job even begins.
@@WoodNerds I posted a link above. This team has all kinds of mods from bed fans to linear gantrys. It has helped my K1 a lot. You can look under projects mods to checkout what they have done and working on.
The "AI Lidar" stuff on these machines don't actually even work 50% of the time, you will never truly print at "600mm/s" as the hotend cannot reach the flow necessary to print at those speeds without serious under extrusion. The K1 max has serious bed warping and levelling problems. they are okay printers, but not superb either especially for their price tag. They will print pretty darn fast though that's for sure.
Great insight! I’ve noticed minor flaws but haven’t really had any serious issues. I have about 80 hours of print time on each machine so I wonder if I’ll see some ugliness as time goes on and they loosen up. It’s all new to me but so far so good. Do you have other recommendations for printers that fellow designers could benefit from? Always on the lookout for the best option for the money.
@@WoodNerds the new qidi q1 pro printer are fairly reasonable machines, active chamber heating, respectable build volume, respectable price and seem great thus far. The Bambu lab machines I recommend. I have a total of 4 printers and the best experience of them all has been the p1s. The k1 don’t really have much value in them anymore they are just featureless printers from what I can see. I would avoid twotrees kingroon flash forge etc they are all just clone machines trying to imitate Bambu lab but always having tradeoffs that make it annoying
Thank you for the info. I’ll have to checkout the others from your list. Of course I only have my experience to draw conclusions from but so far the K1’s have been good to me. My dad had a bamboo and loves it, so does a friend of mine. Might have to send out some emails and kiss butts to get some freebies to try out haha.I appreciate the convo!
@@WoodNerds glad to be able to help, its nice to have someone listen every once in a while. the 3d printer market can be a very sneaky and misleading place, bad marketing terms etc etc. the bambu lab printers seem to be the best printer you can get if you just want it to work and to use it as a tool. my p1s has been going strong for 10 months now and it prints perfectly 90% of the time. the 10% being user error only. the k1 machines are great dont get me wrong, but their pricepoint is too high and feature list is lacking really. after using an ender 3 for 3 years, and a custom built rook 3d printer for a few months, the p1s is the best printer ive ever used period. great quality, great speed, great reliability. checks all my boxes. its a tool, not a hobbyist machine. thats the way i like to look at it :)
@@WoodNerdsI also have Bambu lab printers, I have a p1s and an A1, both are amazing and in my opinion the best on the market right now, work with what you have because the k1 is still a good printer but if you ever decide to change them definitely go for Bambu lab, not only the printers are really good but the slicer is the best of all in my opinion
I haven’t fully explored all the stuff available out there yet. Been trying to get my skills up to model better. Have you been designing your own prints or mainly benefiting from the free libraries so far?
@@WoodNerds free libraries. Need to put to use my hobby fusion 360 license sooner than later... even bought a really precise digital caliper the other month as I wanted to be able to start taking precise measurements but have put off designing something. Basically we're on opposite paths 😂
@DIYAroundTheHome 😂😂 it’s time consuming man! Took me like 2 weeks to design and test until I got that final iteration. Not a bad turnaround if I had a marketable product though. Now I just need to start writing everything down that makes me think “this is stupid, it should be like….”
Yikes! You can open the back and see if anything got caught up in the motors. If one of those clay packets burst during shipping that might cause some weird symptoms but you might want to reach out to xtool and see what they have to say about that. Mine is quiet.
I want high gloss white veneer. Not paint, my cabinets should look like pearly white teeth. Can you show how to get that sort of finish on frameless cabinets like ikea, DIY build home IKEA cabinets, all drawers for base cabinets, with drawer lights and integrated drawer pulls into the top of the face
You can use plywood but you’ll have to use edge banding or a good filler to hide the ply’s before paint. With mdf all it needs is a light sanding to remove the tool marks and it’s ready to paint.
Hi, nice job. Try torx wood screws, way better! 16’ 2x4s for ledger’s are stronger and easier. Also, white paint really helps (especially with age) in the bench area.
1st thing... Are you insane? Not 1 but 2 full sheets of melamine? My back hurts just thinking about lifting that. I love the idea of the hoist, again thinking about my back. I did use 1 sheet of melamine but rather than a second sheet of anything, I used a 6" wide pieces of 3/4" Plywood making a band around the bottom edge. To make my cuts around the melamine top so I can have pretty edges and no caulk I used my router with a 1/4" plunge bit to make 1/4" deep channel to mark the table top dimensions, then used a jig saw to cut of the excess and the router with a flush trim bit to dress the edge. I love the screw knob idea for the center support. It works great.
Solid points! It’s been awesome, but if I would do it again, I think I would make a few changes. Lighten up the load would probably be one of the alterations haha. Thanks for watching and taking time to share your thoughts! Cheers!
I just set my P2 but I was instructed to go to the bottom right. It did it automatically and only tested the bottom right. After I was in the center of where it wanted it and said it was done. Just following the AI version of it.
Thanks for the suggestion! I’ve seen them before. The models I’ve found are $1k+ machines. I was thinking of getting the kreg foreman($300+). Any experience with the foreman vs the castle?
@@WoodNerds I just upgraded from the kreg foreman to the foot operated castle machine. I built my cabinet company with the foreman. I am thrilled with the castle because it’s so much stronger of a connection and it’s shocking how much easier and forgiving the alignment is. There isn’t much forgiveness with the kreg foreman, however with the castle you can back the screw out as many times as you need to re align the work pieces and it’ll suck tight every time. I really like it for plywood to plywood connections, super strong.
@Theuniverseisstrange I appreciate the information! I plan on building out my garage in the near future. Probably 18 cabinets (10 floor, 8 upper). Having a quality machine would really improve the process. I’ll have to weigh that price tag.