So, I’ve worked with 80w 90 gear lube before, and I’ve used Kubota super UDT. The latter falls somewhere between a typical hydraulic oil and an engine oil in apparent viscosity at room temperature, as I recall, and 80/90 gearlube is on the extreme end of viscosity, almost a grease rather than an oil. Can someone please explain to me how any piece of equipment can call for either of these products interchangeably in the manufacturer’s specifications?
I believe it comes down to the operating temperature where the tractor is located. If you feel more comfortable with a heavier viscosity oil, then use it. 👍🏻
I no longer have this truck, I personally don’t modify my trucks as I trade them in to get new ones. Ground clearance isn’t a concern for me as I have vehicles better suited for off road use
Just checked my kubota L2501 and it was actually pretty much full. I added some oil and I think most of what I put in came out the other side. At least I have peace of mind.
Every 800 may seem excessive but its a good practice to drain and look for metal chips, those angle drives don't like chips and the bevel gear teeth are under a massive load sometimes in 4wd. A couple quarts of oil vs $1k to replace gears, bearings, seals and a cracked housing.
@@HillsideAcres Had a Kubota blow up a front drive and farmer next door with a compact deere. Helped him go through his front axle after a sudden dissasembly. Good maintenance for the kubota also doesn't seem to mention pop out the front driveshaft couplers and lube them now and again every couple years else the rust eats the splines, not an overly expensive repair but it breaks when you need it most.
the correct size for the front diff bolt is 27mm. I like using a K&N KA-7512 air filter & a K&N 204-1 oil filter, it has a 17mm nut on the end, easier to remove/install than using wrench. And AMSOIL is better than kawasaki oil & diff fluids, plus it's all synthetic.
I don’t like kn filters in dusty environments, they let too much material through. Oil is subjective, changing at proper intervals is what will make the difference
Regarding stamped decks, my old craftsman rider starting being eaten through on the left side leading edge, so I took an old dull blade and hammered it flat to take out the twist, then beat a curve into one end of it to match the deck where the most damage was and welded it onto the deck. The deck outlasted the rest of the mower. It was about 20 years old when I finally let it go.
DO NOT BUY ANY KUBOTA PRODUCT I BOUGHT A NEW KUBOTA LX 4020 TRACTOR TO USE FOR A SNOW REMOVAL BUSINESS IN BRIAN HEAD, UT. I HAD TO PURCHASE FROM A DEALERSHIP IN COLORADO AS IT WAS THE ONLY KUBOTA DEALERSHIP WITHIN A 1000 MILE SEARCH TO HAVE THE TRACTOR I NEEDED FOR THE PURPOSE INTENDED. The Dealership, Wickham Tractor in Fort Collins, CO sold me the tractor and added Howes diesel treatment to the tank as well as selling me the remainder of the bottle to use to prevent the fuel from jelling. I Used as per specs. Tractor was purchased on 11/21/23 and I picked it up and transported it back to UT. Tractor was in operation for 17.2 hours before it would not start. Local Kubota dealerships said they would not come out to try to fix it as we did not buy it from them. Took it to Las Vegas, NV, as they were closest Kubota dealership, dropped off on 1/8/24 at 730 am. Kubota dealership said the fuel smelled funny so it wasn't covered under warranty and said $12000.00 plus to fix. The DPF was completely clogged and the only codes were low temp MAF sensor and no communication with EGR. Western area rep said there was no fuel to test because I drained it. This is a Lie. Had more than 6 gallons of fuel in it when i dropped it off. I have all the emails and correspondences and text messages, proving they denied coverage for adding a fuel additive. Sergio at Kubota customer service said, “When I put fuel in the tractor it voided warranty.” Apco, the Kubota dealership in Las Vegas, sent out the injectors for testing they came back as bad due to fuel contamination on 1/23/24. Kubota persisted in their point of me putting bad fuel in the Tractor. When I called the tester, I pressed about the fuel contamination. The person who did the test, said it was visible metal in the injectors that most likely came from the high pressure fuel pump. There was no metal in the fuel tank, fuel filter or fuel water separator. The dealership i bought the tractor from said they were the only ones that could help me at this point due to Kubota policy. Eddie at Wickham tractor told me I needed to bring the tractor back to them, 1367 miles round trip. and they would sell me a new one because I had broken this one. And would see about trying to fix the one I had already bought for a discount. I transported the tractor back to Greely, CO to Wickham on 1/18/24 they tested the fuel that was still in the filters and it came back as fine 2/8/24 so they were going to replace the entire engine. This could take between 3 to 9 months. My warranty coverage says all warranty work to be completed within 30 days. On 2/28/24 I found out there was internal Kubota Service Bulletin that came out to all the dealers the week before I bought the tractor stating the very problems my tractor was having. They knew this, and still denied coverage, and finally, when I presented this fraud to Kubota, on 3/7/24 Wickham tractor said they were going to replace the tractor with a new one, but wouldn't give me a timeline of when I would get a new one and I would have the expense of picking it up from them verses a local dealership. These delays have cost me my business and reputation to move snow I had to pay out my competitors and cancel and refund all my contracts. A service bulletin for this tractor was issued before I bought it stating this very problem. and it was to be fixed at Kubotas expense. They knew the problem existed, they tried to blame it on me for adding fuel supplement, they tried to coerce me into buying a new tractor on top of the broken one so i didn't lose my business. they refused to cover the cost of repair until i proved their fraud, and intent by pushing the narrative and then changing and deleting emails. I have all emails and correspondence showing the timeline, the fraud and intent.
It makes a,big difference if you cut in such a way that the uncut area is on the left. If on the right then the machine piles the cut grass in front of the wheels whereas the other way puts the cut material well away from the wheels. It took me a long time to figure that out! The machine almost pulls itself along when cutting on the left.
I own one of those and love it for mowing wooded trails and the septic mound, I even mowed my yard a time or two when I was without a lawn mower for a short while. I use the cub cadet orange pre cut square string and they are awesome. It will even cut through small saplings if the strings are fresh.
My 40hp was on it's 50 hour check and i had real trouble getting the service guy in Thailand to check it. so i did it while he was there watching and it took half of a 4.5 litre can and the service guy couldn't believe it .
After you add oil, you have to check it again the next day there’s a lot of bearings the oil has to seep through to get the correct level at minimum it’s overnight
We l; learned real Quick the advantages of having the Disc Mower mounted on a Caddy,, WE have 3 Krone Easy Cut 320s mounted on KMC 4760 caddies,,,,, We usually use 2 5115Ms and 1either the 6R145 or the6145R on the other All have GPS guidance and are Auto-steered,,,,,, It really saves on all phases of Haying, Mowing, Tedding, raking, I guess it could be also used while baling.... WE also have a Pull type Krone 3200 disc mower, but it is only used when we can find a driver......
Amazing machines! 7yrs now on a 2017 T4LE and not one single failure. Original battery died before Christmas. Original Bighorn tires are finally dry rotting so they're coming out next week. 3500 total miles. Always do all 3 oils and air filter like this video shows. We climb 14,000ft peaks every year with the Teryx and always get home. Good job, Kawasaki!
I have a question, please. I have a Kubota M7060. I recently purchased it, and to be honest, I am uneducated with this tractor. My question is, will a Kubota M7060 handle this type of work on a daily basis, clearing land like this? I am new to this tractor, as I said. I would like to use my tractor like this to clear some of my land. It's about five acres in about the same condition. It used to be a cattle field and has been let go for around 15 years. Pretty good size Cedar, Cherry, Pine, Popular, Red Bud, ext... I have pushed some down around 8 to 10 inches with just the bucket then pushed the trees in a burn pile. I have thought about getting a grapple because it looks like this does a better job and easier. I just don't want to destroy my tractor or bend something. Any advice and input will be much appreciated. Thank you
