Thanks for this. I have a GT with a broken controller, I just swapped it for a friend's controller that isn't updated for haptic buzz and was rewheeled. But apparently I need to pair the BMS to the new controller. Do these steps do that too?
To answer my own question: yes they do! Ran it on Android, worked perfectly. Note to anyone who comes this way: took a few tries before the OneWheel appeared in the app, not sure what did it, some timing thing maybe. But worked on the 3rd try. Thank you so much! Crazy that this is no longer possible though. Edited to add: this isn't possible if the controller was updated to haptic buzz though. Eff FM!
Hey Justin! Awesome information! I used this to level out my XR with thunder rails installed. Unfortunately, this has caused a different issue to arise for me. I typically ride in custom settings with the nose angle adjusted to “level out” at higher speeds. Not super fast, but usually around 15-17mph. What I’m running into, is that now that my board rides level right away, the pushback kicks in at about 15-16mph, and makes my rides way less enjoyable. I’ve tried messing with different settings in custom, and played around with mission. I still get the same results. I think I need to go back to the factory default angle setting. How would I go about doing that? 🤔 Unless you have a better solution. Whatcha think?
Thanks for all your work man, would appreciate a pint BMS removal video too. Something about a specific order/way the cables need to be undone. Either way great video
Hey FixMyPEV! I followed your instructions but got an error back from the unlocker tool. It says that my hardware is 5314 and firmware 5100 which should be fine according to your video but it says that by board isn't supported and continuing will likely lead to it getting bricked.
Obviously that's pretty spooky but Is it telling me that making "rewheel mods" with the current firmware will brick it, or with that my pint is completely incompatible and even trying to downgrade to 5050 will brick it?
Amazing, now please please get an Xr down grade sorted! Updated by accident and now my cbxr isn’t working on the new upgrade. Gutted! Thanks for all your hard work in the community my friend 🙏
That would be amazing, but it’s unlikely to happen. Even after putting in a ton of effort to obtain backups from the various hardware models, we don’t have access to all of the firmware we need. Would be a sizable operation with little to no benefit. 🫤
What do u suggest I do? Maybe stick a vesc focer 3 in it? Would that give me the full capacity back? Super gutted this has happened. Fm are really holding onto everything and it’s not fair.
Just down graded the pint and converted to firm are to an xr for custom shaping. Amazing man. Thank you and really hope someone sorts out a patch for my now retired cbxr
Hi! @fixmypev , tried this method, and 2 times in a row this tool corrupt firmware on Extract Bootloader step. Pint, 5314, gemini 5100. Any ideas why this could happen? In case I have such a problem , should I try to proceed withouth backup?
Hi! @fixmypev , tried this method, and 2 times in a row this tool corrupt firmware on Extract Bootloader step. Pint, 5314, gemini 5100. Any ideas why this could happen?
Hey my pint is 5314 on gemini 5100. I followed the process step by step but now my board says HW 5000 and FW 65520. The lights on my board are rainbow coloured. What do i do now? Cheers
So this is not something easy to do huh? Was thinking of doing this based on another video I saw where (I think) it talks about making a backup of the current firmware, i figured the backup was so one could downgrade.
Dude thank you so much. My battery and speed no longer was displaying and this fixed it. Along with having curved rails the shaping was a nice bonus! 🖤🫡
Hi I’m in the UK is it possible to fix my GT if I sent it to you it won’t power on nothing no lights nothing when charger is plugged in it’s only done 1000miles is there anyway of me contacting you direct ? Thanks Paul
@fixmypev This is very helpful. However when attempting to do the factory mode setting, the ØW app showed the following message “your battery temperature is out of safety mode”. My firmware is current. Do I need to downgrade in order to get this to work?
Yes, you do. You can see more information about compatibility in the video description. If you’d like to learn about my downgrade service, feel free to contact me here: www.fixmypev.com/contact-us
Hey I’m looking for some help. I’ve got a pint x that is only getting .5 volts through the xt60 on the battery end. The xt60 from the battery is reading fine but from the bms to the controller doesn’t seem to be. Any ideas?
just posted this on reddit but wanted to paste it here as well: I've had my pint since 2020. Once I got the knack of it I wanted more range. Didn't necessarily care about going much faster but range anxiety was real. A couple years later a friend of mine installed the chi quart battery along with a new Burris wheel from TFL and that changed everything for me. Fast forward a couple years later and OW came out with their haptic buzz update. I mistakenly installed it and had no clue that by doing so would basically mean my quart wasn't being fully recognized. Like so much that I started getting power surges in places I hadn't before. The same friend took my board, flashed the firmware (thanks ffmwheel!), and made it so that pushback doesn't occur until 20mph. I have always been a slower rider usually averaging around 11-12mph. Now I'm riding at 14-16 and I can't even begin to describe how this has increased my overall confidence in the board. It's a wonderful and freeing feeling that I never experienced early on and it rides leaps and bounds better now. At this point, I don't feel a huge rush anymore to upgrade to a bigger board because this one is serving me so well right now. Just wanted to share my thoughts and experiences with everyone...cheers!
thank you so much for this guide and for the help on the discord! can confirm that this worked perfectly today for me. didnt even know about the posi patch, what a lifesaver. again, ty for (re?)developing this for the community man, we're all very appreciative.
Bruhhhhh! so gratefull for this, the haptic buzz killer was taking away the last little slice of the available duty cycle! I can finally go downhill again with this bad boi
Well, board turned itself off haha. Now has a purple light if I turn it on (pint). Guess I'm toast. Hardware 5300, Firmware 5042 Power cycled and it let me flash extractor, dump bootloader, and now stuck again on 8% dumping settings :(
I was able to use the unlock tool, and flash the update, but now the process is hung after I click dump bootloader. It seems to get to 10-15% and then just gets stuck. I am able to reload the page and reflash the update (to 100% no problem), but everytime it gets stuck on bootloader dump. Any ideas to help, or should I be looking into VESC at this point :P -Pint -HW version 50xx (cant remember before I started, but pretty old) -SW version before this was 5100 After trying this out, the unlocker tool is reporting HW 5000 SW 65520. The unlocker tool now just says "This tool only works with pint pint x boards." Now that the rewheel tool can flash, I am not sure I need it anyhow. The rewheel tool also now has me select the board model before it begins the flash (from a dropdown list). When the extractor hangs, the LED's on the foot pad change to BRGBR. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
i have always had ride anxiety on my OG pint knowing that pushback was going to kick in around 14mph. with this mod i can now confidently and comfortably ride 16-18mph. it makes the world of difference, especially coupled with my chi quart. thanks so much!
How do i know what firmware i have . i have og green rail paint that has not been connected to app in awhile so no buzz but i did open app i really want to rewheel. this board is my sanity please help
Sharing email reply for visibility: If you follow the beginning of my ReWheel video, it should show you which hardware and firmware versions you’re running (right after you connect). Click the link below and let me know if you have any questions: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OT6Wd7G6haY.htmlsi=xn0GH7HzVyuG-vAp
Err not, by the time i added up what i needed to build it was going to be another 2 mpnths b4 i had the money, by then summervacation would be over, PintX it is hopfully we can un-nerf it
6/10/24: I'd recommend proceeding with caution. I went through the process with my Pint X over the past day or two. Come to find out the developers of the FFMwheel tool (not Justin) had made some changes recently so it didn't work as expected. Justin was kind enough to spend well over an hour with me remotely trying to find a solution. We thought we were making progress, but after following all of the recommended steps, now my board is what he called "bricked". I may have just sacrificed my $1400 investment in the name of breaking free from the tyranny of governmental control... Part of me hates the government (CPSC) for forcing FutureMotion to install pushback and haptic buzz. Another part of me despises FM for buying into the CPSC. However, what would I have done if I were the owner of FM, if I had invented the OW, and all of a sudden my entire business were threatened to be shut down if I didn't comply? I might have done the same thing. Trade one evil for a better good - keeping everyone riding...a SOME speed! Well, my board might be SHOT, but I feel like I stood up for my rights in trying to downgrade my firmware from Gemini 5100 to 5076 (pre-haptic buzz) in the name of freeing myself (over 800 miles into my OW journey) at the risk of dying. Which I already knew when I took on the beloved sport. In short, I'd probably reach out to Justin before you attempt this. Just to make sure you do it right. Apparently I didn't.
They want you to send it in for their protection, not yours. The company is trying to do everything it can to avoid any bad publicity having to do with safety. Just like Tesla, because they’re under such scrutiny they ask that you get certain things done only by them.
In the event of a situation like this (failed firmware update), I feel sending the board in is unnecessarily excessive. And although it makes sense for them to try to protect certain specialized repairs, I’m thankful that California’s Right to Repair act is helping open up the repairability gates for all. 🤙🏼⚡️🛠️
Check out this video for more info: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OT6Wd7G6haY.htmlsi=U9pqMSFdFwEwP2KV I try to have resources available for everything, but let me know if you have any additional questions.
This literally saved my riding. I wasn't enjoying riding outside of my commute because of haptic buzz. My Pint X would dip the nose if i even hit a crack in the pavement because of the haptic buzz. I also thought that i had wrecked my battery during the winter since my board would just feel sluggish even at 70-80%. Now, it may be placebo, but my board feels much better down past 50% now and the nose doesn't give out to cracks in the road. It also seems like the battery just lasts longer in general. Now a quick tip with the Pint X process, have the unlocker tab and the flash tab open and pair the board to both tabs and get the flash page ready and loaded all the way to the point of clicking the flash button. Then do the steps for the unlocker and then hit flash right away once the unlocker shows the green text. I think it all has to be done in less than 20 seconds give or take. That's how I got mine to work after many attempts since I didn't realize I could pair to both tabs at the same time. Thanks for saving my board!
According to the DMCA, it would be illegal for me to do that: “No person shall manufacture, import, offer to the public, provide, or otherwise traffic in any technology, product, service, device, component, or part thereof, that- (A) is primarily designed or produced for the purpose of circumventing a technological measure that effectively controls access to a work protected under this title;”
It’s not designed to specifically work with other apps. It’s a Bluetooth Low Energy utility app. Are you referring to the BLE handshake process or something else?
Nope. The same limitations (put in place by Future Motion) exist when attempting to access the Onewheels via Bluetooth Low Energy. This is just an alternative to nRF Connect.
No, you're still locked out of re-leveling. CBCB was the command to open factory mode in preparation for CACA to re-calibrate the IMU. Triggering the hot cold error shows that factory mode is still locked out. If someone can manage to find the correct byte array to unlock factory mode in the future, this may be a viable way to re-level the GTS. If you have a GT that's still on firmware 6040, a pint that is pre-5100, or an XR that is pre-4165 you could use this app to re-level the controller. Edit: actually I don't think they ever locked factory mode on the XR.
@@juswilvelmy bad. I have a GT with firmware Cassiopeia - 6167. I tried nRF connect, LightBlue and ØW Dig Tilt. They all take me to the temp warning, and can’t calibrate. So I am guessing I need to downgrade the firmware, so I can balance the board after installing WTF rails.
@@oknarfus That’s correct. BLE apps do not work with the newer firmware versions (with the exception of the XR). If you’re interested in my downgrade service, feel free to send me a message: www.fixmypev.com/contact-us
Is this downgrade available for XR also??? I really want get this Haptic Buzz off... Although I had a bad crash without Haptic but I do think that this is way too controlled. thanks a lot for the vid but my question would only be if this also a thing that is possible for XR riders? Thaks a lot 💪
Unfortunately, there are no current downgrade options for the Onewheel XR. We are unable to save backups and also don’t have access to the firmware required for each of the various XR hardware versions.
@@fixmypev damn that really sucks, I guess I gota put up with this buzzing all the time now. Which it doesn’t allow me to go passed 18.3 mph I used to always ride around 20 to 22 mph . Oh well. Thanks a lot and please keep me posted if there are any changes
@@flashinglightsonewheel You're welcome. If there are any major breakthroughs, I'll be sure to post a video here on my channel so make sure to subscribe if you haven't already.
My preference is to plug in the data connector, headlight connector, and power button connector (any order) followed by the controller XT60. Make sure you don’t press the power button prior to connecting the controller XT60.
My preference is to plug in the data connector, headlight connector, and power button connector (any order) followed by the controller XT60. Make sure you don’t press the power button prior to connecting the controller XT60.
