For over 50 years, BJB Enterprises, Inc., an ISO 9001:2015 Company, has been in the business of formulating and supplying quality liquid resin systems to a vast array of industries and with a myriad of applications in mind! These materials include fire retardant and non-FR casting resins, both flexible and rigid waterclear urethanes, and a complete line of tough, fast-demoldable Shore A & D urethane products! BJB also builds polyurethane equipment to assist our customers in processing the materials in the most efficient manner possible! BJB employees are totally dedicated to providing the most superior product and service possible, no matter what your project! We strive to meet the rigid specifications that our customer's throw our way by formulating new products and offering continual technical support. Many of our products have been developed due to customer requests. Give us a call or send an email and you will find out why more people are switching to BJB products!
You don't want to try and force a ratio like that into a simple 4:1 or 5:1 because the math won't allow it. Simply do the calculations in the video and use a proper gram scale to accurately measure your resins. If you want to mix up 250g of resin: 250/126%= 198.4g A, 51.6g B
I have already sprayed my silicone mold with Rocket Release but now would prefer to use the Urethane Mold release. Can i just spray over the E302 or do i have to clean it all off before spraying the E236. As im casting using a urethane I want to give the cast the best chance of being removed easily. Cheers
That's a good question. While you could probably get away with just switching over to the Urethane release and carry on, it might be best to do a quick warm water and liquid Dawn soap (dish soap) to clean it up before using new release. Don't use solvents or scrub aggressively on you silicone molds. 👍
Let me make sure I did the steps properly. 1. I multiply the dimensions of the object or model by length, width and height. 2. I also multiply the dimensions of the mold box in the same fashion. 3. I subtract the number of the mold box from number of the object to get the answer in grams. 4. I divide the number from the overall ratio of the mixture to get the amount of grams for the silicone. 5. Then subtract the number of grams from Ratio A to get Ratio B. 6. ...Profit? I ask this because I want to make sure I get the numbers right. I have an object that is 34.1 cubic inches. I have a mold box 144 cubic inches. I subtract the larger number from the smaller one to get 109.9 grams. Then, I divide 109.9 grams from 110 (100 Parts A to 10 Parts B) to get .99 grams, right?
The general rule of thumb most experienced mold makers use when quoting mold life is 20-30 parts when casting polyurethane. There are several factors that can decrease or increase this quantity. Type of resin used, geometry of the part being demolded, quality of the part needed (shiny or matte), and mold releases used. We've seen as many as 50-100 parts, we've seen as few as 12.
Hi, we do not have a Distributor in the Philippines. We do ship our products Internationally. Shipping small quantities can be expensive. However, we have many companies overseas that import our products to produce their molds and parts.
Hi Dustin, thanks for the compliment. This video is representative of our company's knowledge and experience in this industry. If you have a project or application that requires mold making and casting, consider us as you source! info@bjbenterprises.com
Best to speak with our Tech Sales team about a potential shoe sole. We have former shoe industry folks that have done work for high profile shoe companies using BJB materials. info@bjbenterprises.com
It's a Bell Jar set up commonly found in labs and scientific set ups. It makes viewing the vacuum process a little easier than typical vacuum chambers while doing the same job. The key in any vacuum degassing set up is the pump quality. Higher CFM and lower micron ratings are the goal.
Thank you. You can see more lenses made in similar style using BJB materials on Eric Strebel's channel as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-wPAqM-7pXA4.htmlsi=vTvHKqt3pgbSMSqJ
why when we use pressure to get rid of bubbles we won't have explosion of these compressed bubbles in case of product tearing after it's cured and finished ? excellent info by the way
With flexible materials, compressed bubbles can return and distort the parts. We have seen this many times. With rigid material, the bubbles can't rebound like that because the material is hard. Pressure is best used in conjunction with material that has been vacuum degassed, and the pressure forces the liquid material into the fine detail of the mold where bubbles may become trapped. Good question!
There are some small shops that can do work like this. Typically, the large, upfront cost is making the molds. If you are only looking for one set of parts, that can be expensive. Doing this DIY if you are familiar with mold making and casting is not too bad. Many times people try to make several castings from a mold and sell those to offset costs.
This is, I think, the last thing holding RC scale models back from looking practically identical. It sucks because you look at all the time, love, money, etc.. that goes into replicating aircraft, but I've never seen anyone pull this one thing off. This is one of the closest I've seen someone come to replicating it. You deserve a lot of kudos, sir, for this. I'm still waiting for that time when someone finally jumps the last hurdle and makes real working thrust vectoring nozzle turkey feathers with a real jet engine.
With any industrial casting or mold making material, the Safety Data Sheet (SDS) is where you find specifics for a material on what PPE to use. In general, you should always wear disposable gloves, eye protection, and have adequate ventilation in the work area (via exhaust fans or cartridge respirator).
If you are asking about a specific company's jet kit, we have no knowledge of that. This video and project was from a longtime customer that makes a variety of scale parts for large scale RC turbine jets.
Hi there. It's difficult to put a cost on the whole project because most of the kart (excluding the body made in the video) came from used parts and pieces. Materials to make the body are likely around $400-$500 for TC-1604 epoxy, fiberglass fabric, SEM primer, body filler, sandpaper, paint, vinyl decals, 3D printed parts, and so on. The 1800 watt motor, speed control, and lithium 48v battery were found on Amazon (about $350). To build something like this from scratch, you are looking at $1000-$2000 depending on the fabrication skills you have and materials used to build such a car. Finding an old go kart frame and modifying like this helped save a lot of money and time.
I have been looking at this as a solution for a costume dilemma I've been having I need to fashion two identical small accessories. However they'd need to be gold, which pigment would be the best to replicate the correct colour?
You may need to look into cold-metal urethane casting using gold powder pigments. See our distributor BITY mold supply for a good tutorial on this subject: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9OFteD7iKLI.html
@@daquellejones264 Not specifically that car. If you are looking for one or two lights, it can be difficult to find someone who will make molds and parts for that quantity without being extremely costly. Most people that do this are either making a large run of parts for a popular or hard to get car, or they are doing it themselves because it is not available.
Thanks for a fantastic tutorial. I need to replicate a small plastic part and this video has shown me everything I need to know. Could I just ask: Wouldn't it be useful to leave the box around the mold while casting to prevent any distortion of the mold? Or does the thickness of your mold prevent this?
On a small mold like this with a thick perimeter of silicone around the mold, we can get away with strapping it to a flat board as shown in the Part 2 casting video. In some cases we will make a custom sized top and bottom board to hold things together and without distortion. In many production shops, wood or plastic mold boxes are used with the silicone molds to ensure mold geometry is accurate. The one issue that we see with full mold boxes is that over time the silicone may experience some shrinkage and the mold box sides prevent a good, solid seal between the silicone halves, and cast material leaks out around the parting flange. If you use the top and bottom boards, taped tight and secure, then you don't have to worry about this issue.
What about if you're making a silicone mold and you want to pour in a clear resin. You wanted to look like glass and see-through what release agent do you use for that
If you want to make the clearest parts possible, then you don’t use a mold release. In that case, you can expect less parts from your silicone mold. If you want to extend the life of your mold as much as possible and don’t mind doing a little bit of post- polishing after demold, then we recommend.E236 because it is silicone oil based and gives it a good finish
@@bjbenterprises thanks for getting back to me. I'm going to try not using any thing and see what happens. When I'm trying to make is going to be about a 16 oz pour I'm guessing
How much fiber glass cloth did you end up using on this project, I’m doing a similar project and feel like I’m over estimating how much I need. Thanks!
Can you also use this for a 75mph petrol go cart? I want to build a jaguar e type go cart it Will be pretty big lenght Will be 302cm Width 111cm Height 82cm
The fit was very tight to the splitter board and using thin CA glue creates no appreciable glue line (raising the part up). In hindsight, it would have been good to show using a paste wax around that edge to create a very small wax seal since many parts wouldn't fit this nicely. Another method to lightly fasten a flat lens like this to the splitter would be to use basic white glue around the whole edge. This would create a nice seal and allow easy removal from the splitter when needed. Nice catch and thanks for the comment. Others will learn from discussions like this!
Yes, absolutely. You would want to make sure that the silicone mold is air free (vacuum degassed before pouring) and the pressure tank will help deal with trapped air in the cast resin.
@@sierraecho884 it sounds like you are trying to replicate a "forged carbon fiber" look. We have had customers create this with different materials and part configurations. Yes, resin and fiber content is critical and takes some time to dial in. If you are trying to cast a very thick, solid part with this method, you risk more bubbles. Pressure casting will help deal with small pinhole type bubbles, but it won't eliminate large pockets of air. We have not seen something this large (the skull) made in a single casting with carbon strands. Something this large may require a layered approach and then backed with a solid resin cast.
