Comic book cleaning & pressing has become increasingly popular among hobbyists as a way to improve and preserve their comic collection. Through these methods, one can significantly increase the value of their prized books especially if the intention is grading. To safely clean & press comics requires a significant time investment to learn the methods. On this channel, I share the knowledge & "tricks" I learned along the way to becoming a competent comic presser. While these videos are not a substitute for practice (lots of practice), they address common questions you will naturally encounter during the learning process. They should also prevent common mistakes. Last, they are fun, and even relaxing, to watch! There is nothing more exciting than getting a big "grade bump" on a crack, clean, and press project! So follow along as I improve my skills and feel free to ask questions! Good luck!
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If you know (or are pretty sure) it’s going to come back Purple, why not put the extra effort into really cleaning/fixing as much mistakes as you can and attempt to get a Grey label?
Considering there hasn't been an update in a couple of years, its safe to assume that the grade came back below a CGC 5.5 and your method of cleaning did not work. Not trying to be harsh or critical, but I am trying to learn how to properly clean and press my comics. SO... with that being said and no result video show, we all (viewers) have to assume the worst. We all would love to see an update on what you received back from CGC.
Why SRP? I’ve only used 110lbs paper and never had ink transfer, ever. Hundreds of presses. I’m just wondering why everyone use SRP and if I’m doing something wrong?
I don’t necessarily think it’s wrong. I just thinking using SRP is safe. It’s the way I learned how to press and I still do it. Since I use backer boards as the “bread of the sandwich”, I was always concerned that there would be gloss transfer from the backer board to the cover. But if you are using 110 lbs card stock, then you don’t have to worry about that.
@@epicomicologycomics yeah, it makes sense that there could be a transfer given it happens naturally, when comics are just in a box and moved around. You can see it sometimes when changing bags and boards.
Hi! I am reading the CGC book "The Official CGC Guide to Grading Comics. You mentioned in the video about possibly it would be better if the CGC gave the comic a conserved grade rather than a restored grade. In your case it is not possible to get a conserved grade on the ASM 129 because what you did was strictly for aesthetic purposes with the cleaning. The only way you can get a conserved grade is if the work done in the CGC's opinion is things that relate to structural integrity. Aesthetic improvements do not qualify for conserved grades. [The Official CGC Guide to Grading Comics-Chapter 7-Page 26]
Thanks for the reference. Ironically, CGC has been handing out conserved labels for these books now. There is a whole discussion about it on the KaptainMyke FaceBook page. I will post the link below. The one thing I know is that CGC is unpredictable! facebook.com/groups/kaptainmykecomicpressing/permalink/2972129602928239
i came across your video because of a set i have in my box from when i was a kid, some 1995 reprints of superman and spiderman and batman vs incredible hulk. never had them out of the bags, and thought i may submit, notice superman had a dent on the back cover so watched your video. not confident in trying myself but man i found your video entertaining as hell. great 43 mins
Question is how do you prevent the color rub. I buy a comic book put it on the board and then slide it in the bag together. Few months go by and still I’ll get comics with color rub on board. Any answers will be great thanks
My best advice is to not skimp on the bags and boards you use. For anything that is worth collecting and preserving, I use only Mylite mylar 725M2 bags with 700 FB (full back boards). The books don't move once they are in there. Also, you need to be careful when you are putting them in and taking them out. I place the book on the board that then treat it and the comic as a unit. There is no sliding against the backer board. Last, (and this is annoying) you can store the books cover to cover in the long boxes. That prevents stacking curl and also any sliding around in the box. Hope that helps!
Unless I turn in the old labels, then both the Blue and the Purple will still show. I am also uncertain how frequently and consistently they update the census when labels are turned in.
That ASM #7 graded at a 3.0 is criminal. There’s no way it should be that low. You’re also scaring me because I have a big book I was going to have cleaned and pressed and now I’m not so sure.
I have had way more wins that I have had losses. These are just the outliers that make for a good story. I am not sure what the deal is with the ASM 7. Usually a 3.0 is reserved for something with a detached cover or big chunks missing. These are what the notes say: Grader Notes large, multiple crease cover breaks color multiple tear cover small, multiple piece out back cover
I dont understand what is wrong with cleaning a cover. If you're just removing stuff that's not there originally, i.e. dirt/etc, and you dont remove stuff that should be there like, then what's the issue? If I discover a pristine book from 1940 that's perfectly white... are they going to give it a "restored" label because it's too clean?
Honestly, at this point I am not sure. I had a really clean Captain America 111 and a Sg Fury 4 that got slapped with purples because they were whiter than 90% of the books out there. A detailed discussion with CGC cleared that up though. Overall, I think there is line between a purple and a blue. I just feel it should be more objective.
There is nothing wrong with cleaning, dry cleaning. Which don't result in a purple label. It's been people clean using chemicals you get purple, rightfully so.
@@Comicbookyoutubersrock But if they cant tell which was cleaned with dry cleaning and which was cleaned with chemicals, then on what basis do they give a purple label?
@@DeusExAstraThey can tell. I've submitted books for many years, always dry cleaned, never once a purple label. If you chemically clean, they have tools that can detect that.
@@DeusExAstra I believe that is is based on if it looks "too white" as compared to 1) other copies of the same book, 2) than the inside cover, or 3) than the interior pages. Also, here, I am largely talking about the methods used in the CPR SRW guide, which largely use blue LED light and hydrogen peroxide. We are not talking about chemical baths or things like ImmacuClean.
#129 is worth cracking. Good luck! Should have watched to the end. Great bump and thank god... Honestly, I think they should just keep it a blue label with a note saying, cover cleaned, unless, it's extreme/obviously like the Daredevil....
I agree with that 100%. There is a big grey area which is subjective that I feel should keep it a blue. The DD 1 I messed up with ink pull. I agree with that call.
Hey there I am diving deep into the PLOD mysteries. Love your videos love your thought process. I cannot agree more with your methodology as well. Im going to submit SIngle PLOD books to CBCS without doing anything to them and see what happens.
I will sy this. I feel like there is a notion in the industry (especially among CGC fans) that CBCS is sub-par in their grading. I don't think that is the case. They have very competent graders, and as such, I don't think that we can expect to "sneak by" any books at CBCS. If anything, there is more inter-grading variability and you have just as much of a likelihood of getting a blue label back if you resubmit to CGC. At the end of the day, covers that are too white (especially compared to the interior cover and pages) and covers where ink has been lightened or accidently removed are dead giverways. I also feel like those books are indeed deserving of a purple label. What I have an issue with is the inconsistency in identifying books that fall into this category.
@@epicomicologycomics Agree I have had 2 PLODs come in the last 10 subs or so to CGC. Both with Cover Cleaned as the reason. I didnt go crazy just removed stains etc. It didnt look "off" or out of place at all. I subbed 1 of the 2 a month later and not only did i get a blue label i got a FULL grade bump AND pages went from off white to white. THe inconsistency is my BIGGEST issue. I truly believe they look at it from a purely business profit standpoint. If they even suspect with one IOTA or hinkling that its been cleaned! Slap it with the PLOD and let them resub. They get paid twice OR MORE! It disgusts me to no end how there is NOTHING scientific to backup the CLAIM of Cover cleaned. Its like going to court with no evidence against you yet they lock you up without proof! Sick and tired of the rat race and the mind fuckery with CGC. I have NOT had this issue with CBCS. I have not subbed alot there but I have subbed cleaned books.
Love how CGC is subjectively giving out purple labels. Ridiculous, and all you did was standard dry cleaning. One of my customers was dinged with purples for "cover cleaned". Granted, they were silver age and I was, like you, a little over zealous. Now, much more careful how much and on what books I'll do it. It's the standard dry cleaning ones that really piss me off. Good job...
Thanks! I essentially have the entire process documented. I just wish I knew if they meant cover cleaned "whitened" or "heavy eraser marks". Usually, if it is the latter, they will put it in the notes.
I don't even really want to think about it! If I consider what I have on film, it's about 2-3 hours of hands on time. That doesn't include everything not on camera, the packaging, shipping, completing submission forms, etc etc etc. Unfortunately, with the time and costs invested, I think this project was a wash.
Everyone is certainly entitled to their personal views on any practice in this hobby (e.g., graded vs raw, modern vs silver, pressed vs unpressed), but I would argue that cleaning and pressing does not ruin the hobby as a whole. Cleaning and pressing to improve the appearance of the book is desired by a large proportion in the hobby, especially those that grade books.
Thanks so much for sharing this. I've been there myself on several books pushing the same processes too far. Your heart sinks when you find out it got hit with a PLOD and yeah, that feeling stays with you for the remainder of the day. I went the CBCS route too and although they did come back blue labels, they took such a hit in value that it would've been a loss either way. Lesson learned. This will be a very helpful video to a lot of people. Again, thank you for sharing!
I honestly don’t mind Purple labels if they are in the slight category. And I don’t mind green labels when it’s something small like a signature or small ad or MVS cut out.
interesting story and just wondering - will you send those old labels back to CGC / CBCS so that they can correct their census counts on what is indeed, a very important book?
@@epicomicologycomics cool! i do often wonder how much lower census counts would be for bigger (and smaller!) books if everyone handed in their old cracked labels. i know they can be a nice keep-sake, esp if a grade bump is acheived, and i've held onto some for a while - but ultimately it leads to a distortion of figures that people, including myself, want to know as accurately as possible :P
Another Great video! Those are so pretty. They definitely look pressed before. Just without any steam or humidity. Which you clearly demonstrated by the end results. I’m gonna say 8.0 on the ASM 14. Because of the tanning. And 7.0-7.5 on the ASM 4. The edges
Great estimates! I was apprehensive to estimate the ASM 14 at a 9.2 simply because I have never even held a raw copy from that era in that grade before!
Good to see you back w a new vid 👊 learned how to Dry-clean and evaluate books from your vids 2 years and I have been having success 👍 thanks big fan of ur work
I think the roller marks were on #4 right? -- how do you go about removing black marks like that from tricky colors like yellow and red? Also it is hard to tell from the pix but was there any loss of color in the yellow from the treatment of those roller marks at all or not really? another great vid. thx!
Great question! In retrospect, I wish I had recorded that part. I will see if I can find another book to try that on. For the white areas, as you guessed, the pencil tip eraser works well. For the other areas, the absorene sponge works well. You just have to be VERY careful that you don't run to hard.
