@@rscrod Something I encountered when replacing the front brake rotors is that nowhere in the service manual does it mention the orientation (and the importance of) of the spring/wave washers used with the rotor bolts. I’ve seen lots of posts on the V-Rod forums about pulsating front brakes - which my bike had - but only one post about the orientation of the spring/wave washers. My bike has the 10 spoke cast aluminum wheels, and O had them checked by a machine shop to make sure all the mounting points were the same height, and they were. Last time I had my local HD dealer replace the rotors under warranty, and they over-torqued them totally flat and none of them were orientated they way they should be in order for the rotors to actually float. The service manual calls for the rotor bolts to be torqued from 16-23 ft lbs, but it took a breaker bar to get them off my bike after they’d installed them. I think a good video about proper front rotor installation and wave/spring washer orientation could save folks a lot of grief… and money.
Genius, bro. Just ordered new rubber and need one. HOw about wheel bearings? Trying to steer clear of All Balls. I heard they are poor quality. Wish I could cross reference timkens or SKB's.
@@rscrod Really as in depth as you want to get. I have an 05 VRSCB that i'm goint to turbo charge. I'd like to know you turbine, how you ran the exhaust? Did you bend your own exhaust pipe? What material did you use? Stainless? Did you weld up your own plenum? Did you have the flanges machined? How much boost? Did you have it dynoed? Did you do any engine modifications or is it a stock motor? Really like your videos. Bought my first HD in 1979. Built a few over the years. Just resto'd a 72 shovel. I like the details in your vids. Thanks for taking the time and sharing.
Using impact wrench is OK. Even for installation, because over tightening can be controlled. That is not the problem. What the guys have not showed in the video is tightening of the nut. It is very important, because the tightening goes in opposite direction of the engine rotating, which should be avoided as per the HD service manual. Use the clutch hub holder to avoid that. I am not sure how in this case the guys tightened the nut up to 220Nm as per HD service manual recommendation. Just to compare how big is this force - my 16inches tire on the car requires tight force of 120Nm on the nut during installation of the tire.
Tightening the nut would rotate the motor the correct way. From crank side it would rotate anti clockwise as needed. The danger would be when trying to loosen the nut, if the motor turns over while trying to loosen the nut it would rotate the incorrect way
If tabs won't align up, just tap the tab to aling it. You will not hurt anything. Slipper has 4 bolts holding the plates. You can loosen them up if need be. The torque spec is on here somewhere. It is not in the manuals.
Do you mean 12 FOOT lbs on the pinch bolts!? Not 12 INCH lbs.. that's only ONE foot-lb! Found this while looking for the torque spec... I'm assuming this was just a mistake.
You need to look at the manual. or. It is simple to watch how you take them out to put the new ones in. They just alternate pad to plate. Big one is the first one. It is bowed a tad. Next time I would buy the slipper clutch assembly. That is what's shown in video. Hope this helps.
@@CRUZROYHelicopters they can be a pain the rear mufflers slide off. There is a clamp if it has the figure 8, that's what it looks like . or 1 clamp for ea h one. Loosen them up. Take rubber mallet and tap them off. Wiggle them up an down to break loose the carbon.
When you first adjusted fallaway and it was 8 inches it looked like you then adjusted the "star" nut ... the Adjusting Nut, Upper ... by making it tighter (tapping towards the rear of the motorcycle from the right side), yet when you did the second fallaway test the distance was greater than the original test, about 12 inches. I'm trying to adjust my own fallaway now on my 2003 and I can't make sense of why a tighter Adjusting Nut would make for a greater fallaway. Maybe you got it flipped around in the video editing process?
When we tighten the star nut it decreases the full away. You are measuring the distance that it begins to fall to the sides without assistance. So if you have 10 inches. It is tight so loosen star nut and adjust retighten and check to see if number goes down. Check service manual. Keep inind you are checking how tight it is before it falls away. Myself I set it tight to get more feel. I do not like 6inches. I do 8 to 10 depending on feel. We did this with the wheel on also.
@@rscrod Thank you for your explanation! I get it now...the amount the wheel travels by tapping it over increases as the nut gets tighter because you are measuring the resistance space. I was thinking the fallaway was from the "end of resistance" to full turn of the steering. So a greater number equals greater resistance. Got it. I was backwards in the way I was thinking about it before.
From top of tree to top of the flange on the bolt. Measures .250 to .380 of inch. Lowering the front end then same measurement to 1 inch. Pinch bolts torque to 31-34 ft-lbs
Thanks for the video my 03 vrod clutch is starting to slip (or atleast I think thats the problem) gonna probly get it checked out to make sure and replace it myself
Test it yourself or with a friend. Ride bike at 55mph 4th and 5th gear. Go wot and watch the rpms vs speedo, if rpms climb fast and mph is slower then usual, possibly a bad clutch. Either way I would change it out and give old clutch to drag racer.
Yea so I got the slipper clutch started the install with no problems till I put the new clutch in the last two fins wont go in its slides on and then stops any advice?
