I've always "assumed" all engines would have a keyway machined in from the factory in the exact spot and so never any guess work, with this mess there is no good way of knowing unless you did what you did with finding TDC and align the gear mark to the camshaft gear markings. They reinvented the wheel ... just didn't do a well thought out job of it though !
I have a Ford truck 2006 F150 and my air conditioning went out. It just stopped. But... when ever I go down the road near me that is a bumpy road and hit a bump it goes on. Any ideas? It was 104 degrees today.
I didn’t try. The glow plug is at an angle and although the extensions for the dial ind. fit, I think it would want to bend the extension because it would need to slide against the combustion crown. I didn’t want to chance getting it stuck in the hole if it bent. Inj 1 comes out pretty easy if you have that certain part on top the VC missing or can be accessed by removing the pass tire and fender liner if the cooler is present.
Did you remove the crank gear with a puller then retime the crank? If that's a machine fit that crank gear would be extremely tight to remove or install with no key ways. I have been working on vehicles for 30 years and always learning something new. Thanks for the videos on the 6.7l.
Yes, after finding top dead center on cyl 1 and verifying timing was off, pulled gear with puller, verified tdc again, put some heat to the gear and reinstalled. I took many measurements from different points off a good short block I have and did some comparisons. It might not be absolutely laser perfect, but likely closer than it was when it rolled off the line.
This is the first one I’ve seen with the issue. A net search shows it’s not as rare as it should be. My point was it can be fixed without too much trouble.
You are awesome, good job on videos and diagnosing 6.0 problems. I own a 03 f350 6.0 low kms been well taken care of. She's my baby. A quick question for you. I was looking to invest in a scan tool hear good things about Autel, I'm not a mechanic but I am a mechanic if that makes sense! I wanted to get a scan tool not ridiculously priced but is excellent at diagnosing 6.0s and super duties since our fleet is all supers, also I work on friends and families vehicles. Any recommendations you could give would be much appreciated. Wanted to up my game by investing in a more modern scanner, I want to make sure it does everything I need for my truck before I invest $1000 plus on a tool. Thank you sir, keep up the good work!
As a retired factory trained tech.... When MLS gaskets started to be the norm they trained us saying that machine shops don't have the capability to machine the heads smooth enough. Only option is to replace if damaged. In fact they did not even want us to clean the surfaces up with 3M pads as they "scratch too deep". Told to use wood or plastic scrapers only! Whatever, my training was obviously wrong and I always did proper repairs. At one point they also said that blown out plugs only could be repaired by replacing the head. That was wrong too.
just out of curiosity is that how the heads on the 6.0 powerstroke look like?!? ive never seen a cylinder head that looks like that to be honest where the valves are flush
I’ll get flamed for this non technical explanation. Most diesel cylinder heads are this way. Valves are recessed, piston protrudes, head gasket thickness and valve recession provide piston to valve clearance, combustion chamber is in the center of the piston.
Enjoy the channel. HD truck tech myself, fleet stock stuff that needs to make money. Another great guy to check out on 6.0L in depth rabbit hole deep dive is Jack on TooManyToys. Not too many folks use a profilometer in their home garage.
TooManyToys is probably my favorite channel of them all. Anthony Young blood is another good channel for all things 6.0, but Jack's video's skills and and how he does extreme in depth evaluations and solutions is amazing. I love all these channels, as I love everything powerstrokes. I hope he's doing well, last I remember he was recovering. Haven't seen any new vids from him, but they will be about at some point.
Checking a couple of things, plunger decay- the rate at which the plunger leaks off under load with no oil supply indicating a worn out hyd lifter. Preload. Can be easily adjusted with shorter push rods. Thanks for askin.
Fel-Pro designed their gaskets to be 0.002" thicker, so the block deck could be lightly machined. Mahle also manufactures pistons for this engine, with a higher wrist pin bore to provide lower piston protrusion. So there are options, though some o-rings in the head are positioned so they are not compatible with the Fel-Pro gaskets. I've measured the depth of recession of the pushrods into the lifters, and there is ample room to not bottom out. Changing the pushrod length will not do much; the lifter will just compensate. The pushrod length issue came up with the 6.4L engines when they initially used the same length as the 6.0L and started bending pushrods, so early in the 6.4L production came the "6.4L pushrods." It appears that International decided to use the 6.4L length for both engines from then on and not run the risk of excessive length pushrods getting into the 6.4L. Some have discussed why International placed the 6.0L pushrod recession into the lifter deeper than most engines, probably due to early rocker manufacturing inconsistencies. That seems plausible considering the wide tolerances of this engine's production specs, as you have noted with the heads. Also, the cylinder bores are not necessarily 90º to the crank from the factory.
Thanks for your comments. I’ve used the Mahle reduced pin ht pistons on ones that need the deck surfaced. I haven’t used or even considered the Felpro head gaskets so I was not aware they were .002 thicker.
Ok so the valves themselves shouldn't be in question quality wise and hopefully the keepers and springs followed that same theme, what were your thoughts on the valve seats as I assume the head has hardened valve seats installed from "that other country" ?
I’m not sure if they came over on the boat fully assembled or not. We disassembled them, cleaned them, corrected the stem hight and resembled using OE valve stem seals. I’m certain I am the only end user to have an issue with these cylinder heads…
@@northwestlighttruckservice278Or you mean your the only one that looked at the mess and refused to use them until they were cleaned up and checked for straightness and so forth, otherwise yes blindly a person could just throw them at an engine and close the doors quickly behind the customer as they left !
If the previous owner didn't have an egt gauge when towing and lugging the engine, anything is possible. I'd bet he's right on the cracked piston. Common when ya don't keep heat in check.
As you point out with the issues you can see which are a disaster waiting to happen, I have to wonder what the quality is of not only the valves but the valve seats, the valve springs and keepers, and the head metallurgy itself. I would 100% refuse to put that on an engine with all the other "proper" expense going into the rebuild. I would be afraid a valve would drop, of course I can't claim it will happen but I vote ship them back and get heads you have had good luck with instead.
@@northwestlighttruckservice278 Good on you for being forthcoming Sir. Everyone wants big bucks for hit or miss quality now a days so all we can do is look out for one another am i right?
Of all companies. And they charge $1000's for their heads too. Makes me want to just go with powersteoke products heads instead. @northwestlighttruckservice278
I saw the head studs so looked up the info on the ARP website as I had no idea what the torque value was and was surprised to see that they must be considerably larger ( never gave a thread dimension for the 6.0 ) than the 12mm x 1.75 thread pitch for the 6.7, obviously 8 more bolts being used on it or going back in time for the 7.3. In fact that is going over a typical 1/2 torque wrench max setting ... unless do the "Fap Off" wrenches go higher 😃
