Biggest part of this channel are videos of Whoop Racing or Whoop Race Practice for entertainment and motivation. The smaller part are technical videos where I pass on my main experiences with Whoop Tech. Maybe some comparisons, some tests of components, new builds and so forth. Let me know if my videos have motivated you to go out and fly, that motivates me too. Go out and Fly! Have fun! Whoop Whoop!
Whoops are very small lightweight FPV Race Drones, with often less than 50g take-off weight. Whoop Race is a much cheaper way to race, as 5inch FPV Drone Racing. Which is also fun, but much more complicated. You can fly almost all maneuvers with a Whoop. Only big freestyle maneuvers where you need the weight and momentum of a bigger Drone are a little bit restricted with a Whoop. Whoop`s are lightweight, small, pretty cheap, robust and quiet. For me the most practical Drones out there.
This video is pure GOLD😮 It's super rare to run across someone who has tested almost every whoop prop on the market AND they want to share their learnings with others! Thank you so much for being such a valuable contribution to the hobby❤
Thank you so much my friend! I did my best. My English is bad, but I think it should be understandable enough. Yes, I understand exactly what you mean and to be honest, that's exactly what gave me the motivation! I was sometimes frustrated when I saw videos from people who knew a lot but didn't have time for RU-vid (or only made a video of the result, but without any information) or the pilots who fly very well but don't want to share their experiences because they are too competitive. That motivated me, firstly, to try everything out myself and secondly, to collect my knowledge and ultimately pass it on to other people here on RU-vid. And along the way it was people like you who motivated me not to give up! I thank you from the bottom of my heart for that! ❤Together we are stronger than alone and much of what we as a human species have achieved is thanks to the people who, like us, are positive and without hate and without unnecessary copetetive thinking in the wrong place.. I am very grateful for this hobby, the people in it and will try to complete my dream and pass on all my knowledge. Happy flying my friend! Whoop whoop!🥳
Hi! Use you drillbits for holes in propellers? When they very tight for shaft. For example 1mm shaft, what drillbit you recomend? 0.95 , 0.99 , 0.90 ...?
Very very good question! Yes exactly! I use the prop re-drilling-dental-floss technique..Because I change props quite often with all my testing.. And because the prop holes or the motor shafts are (unfortunately) often inaccurate, I drill out the props with a 1mm / 1.5mm pcb drills (sometimes from both sides, and sometimes three times) and then mount the props with a small piece of dental floss in the prop hole. Sometimes I lose a prop in a hard crash, and after the flight I have to check whether all the props are still down on the motor bell, but I don't care.. I also tried 0.95mm and 1.45mm drills, but that didn't work because the drills didn't remove enough material. Maybe 0.98mm/1.48mm would work, but so far I haven't found any such drills. For 1mm I would recommend 0.98mm if you can find one. And otherwise 1mm and either drill in just once (without pulling) so that you only remove a little material or then work with dental floss like I did.
I havent finished the whole video when writing this but whoaaa that's a lot of micro props - and some of those are ancient! we've come a long way and it's cool to see the "development" of micro props over the years as they become more popular. Great info as always btw! Lots of great insights I think most micro pilots will appreciate! Might reference your video in an upcoming build video I have (ofc if you allow me to ofc!). This type of information should be shared more often!
Totally. They used to be brand new back in the days ☝🏻😌 now they are oldtimers🤣Yes it was a very long way and it is still a fight with the prop companies. I don't know wtf they think and do sometimes.. But at least we have some good props these days. Yes this would be cool! You can use everything. You can also copy 1:1 etc. Or you can test what I tested for yourself and then make a video on your great channel. I don't need any credits. I'm just happy when the knowledge is spread, people are happy and the whoops become more powerful and more popular.. whoop is the way! whoop whoop🥳
@@butterflyfpv I know! I was just a kid when the first props came out and now I'm in college and we have a good number of variants now! A fight between prop companies is what we need tbh cause we can actually (atleast in some cases) communicate what we want in a micro prop. Thanks man! no no, I will 100% refer you when I get that out cause your channel is a gold mine of information fam! our whoop community is lucky to have you doing these tests and I will also try some of your recommendations (even bought a few after watching your vid XD) Whoop whoop!!
@@sticky_ricebowl Yes you are right! More competition for companies. So that they are more motivated to deliver the best products. Nice to hear that you also ordered props to test! 😃I think ultimately you can't avoid testing if you want to find the best one for you. I'm definitely very happy that I found low pitch props for my racing builds with high kv motors..
Schöne prop Sammlung. Kenne ich irgendwo her 😅 Bei mir ist lückenlos bis 10 Zoll gesammelt. Mir gefällt wie leise die vier Blatt props sind. Zudem sehr griffig und smooth. Am schnellsten sind die zwei Blatt, wenn der Motor viel kv hat bzw hoch dreht. In kurven zählt aber grip und beschleunigen mehr.
Wow deine Sammlung muss crazy sein😱Irgendwie bin ich froh dass ich nur bis 2zoll props fliege..😅 Ja voll am schnellsten sind oft die zweiblatt, aber wie du schreibst, für einen racer zählt topspeed oft weniger als anderes. Darum fliegen heutzutage auch alle 5inch racer dreiblatt. Und bei whoops mag ich vierblatt irgendwie manchmal auch.. die HQ 40mm 4-Blatt in ABS sind die allerbesten! Ich wünschte HQ würde die mal in polycarbonate machen..
⚠INFO⚠ 0:00 Introduction 1:07 Pitch of a Propeller 2:08 Number of Blades on a Propeller 3:31 Surface Area of a Propeller 5:06 My favorite 2inch Propellers for 85mm Whoops 5:55 My favorite 40mm Propellers for 75mm Whoops 7:21 Why low pitch propellers for racing? 8:14 My favorite 31mm Propellers for 65mm Whoops 9:11 Something to keep in mind when choosing Propellers for Whoops 9:40 Outro ► What you need to pay attention to when choosing a propeller for a race whoop: ● Pitch → For me low pitch because of my high kv motors ● Number of blades → For me 3- or 4-Blade (2-blade only on crazy crazy lightweight builds) ● Surface area of a propeller → For me bigger surface area ● Shape of the propeller tips → I don`t care to much about this (thin tips are less durable) ● Weight of the propeller → For me lower weight is better ● Durability of a propeller → I don`t care to much about this if the performance and weight is good ● Color of a propeller → I prefer bright colors in case I lose a prop ● Propeller balance → For me the propeller has to be well balanced from the factory ► My favorite Whoop Propellers for my high kv Racing Whoops in 2024: (As of 5/10/24) 2inch (51mm) Propeller for 85mm Race Whoops: 1. HQ Prop T2x3x3 (best feeling in flight) 2. Gemfan 2023 (most efficient, good for some frames because of the higher propeller tips) 3. HQ Prop T51MMx4 (Lightweight, interesting flying feeling) 4. Iflight defender 2020 (Leightweight but not very durable, only for very very lightweight builds) 40mm Propeller for 75mm Race Whoops: 1. HQ Prop 1,6x1,6x4 ABS (not durable, but lightweight, great precision, low pitch) 2. HQ Prop 40mmx4 (low pitch, for lightweight builds) 3. HQ Prop 40MMx3 (low pitch, good as durable alternative to the nr 1) 4. Gemfan 1608-3 (medium pitch, good for outdoor) 31mm Propeller for 65mm Race Whoops: 1. Gemfan 1219S (lightweight, good grip in the air) 2. HQ Prop 31MMx3 Ultra Light (not testet yet) ⚠‼⚠Keep in mind propellers are very sensitive to discload! A propeller can be great with an all up weight 75mm whoop weight of for example 36g. But at 37g it's not so good anymore and at 38g it's not good at all. Propellers are sometimes only good up to a certain weight or in other words disc load. My information only refers to my whoops, which are very light and have a lot of power. I fly high kV motors with low internal resistance, without motor plugs (motor cables soldered to the pads on the flight controller), AWG20 main cable on 75mm whoops (lower internal resistance), BT2.0 or A30 main plug (lower internal resistance and good contact) and with the best lipos I can get (highest C-Rate)! This is all very important! If you want to benefit maximally from my experience then I advise you to do everything like I do. (For example, build my Butterfly75 802 27k Whoop) Keep this in mind my friends! ⚠‼⚠Keep in mind: When choosing a propeller (for whoops) there is no point in using theoretical numbers. For example, it's of little use if you try to calculate something with the kv of a motor if the manufacturer has written an incorrect kv number on the motor (often happens with whoop motors). Or if you try to calculate something with a stable 4 volts (at 1S), but in reality you have voltage sag from the battery and you are flying with 3.8V shortly after takeoff. That's why you have to test it yourself if you want to have the maximum. Or you can rely on my experience and build a whoop exactly like I did. Then you will reach maximum performance more quickly and can focus on practice to fly. I hope this video helps you. If you have any questions, I'll be happy to help you. (It is important that you give me as much information as possible! Otherwise I can't advise you.) I will reply to comments within a maximum of two weeks. Happy flying my whoop friends!
See if you can find any of the old 85mm frames. I dont know why but Happymodel, Betafpv have all added like 3g to their 85mm frames recently. URUAV UZ85 frame is 8.5g, URUAV Bushido 85mm frame is 8.7g, Betafpv 85X frame was 9.6g i think. And these frames were strong, there was no reason to make them all so heavy now. I am just happy i got a few for backups
@@ragndroneman I also still have some of these frames. But unfortunately the hole pattern only fits the 1102 engine. Not for 1103 engines. I have to see if I can mount the 1103 engines somehow.
Yes the old HM 85mm frame was very good! I also still have some of these frames. But unfortunately the hole pattern only fits the 1102 engine. Not for 1103 engines. I have to see if I can mount the 1103 engines somehow.
@@Tokyo_Dom you could be right. The parts were very similar just rebranded motors. Shame you dont see them anymore, uz80 and 85 were so cheap. Was kinda fun putting them together yourself too.
Wie immer sehr gut👍😊 kabel liegt hier schon rum nur noch einbauen😂 dankr für den test brauche ik es nicht ausprobiern sondern kann gleich los legen😊👍👍👍
Sehr cool! Jetzt weiss ich auch wieder warum meine früheren high kv builds (die ich mal reparieren sollte) so gut und lange flogen. AWG20 ist wirklich ein muss für high kv builds.. Jetzt weiss ich es wieder xD
Habe es bei einer. Reperatur gestern gleich eingebaut Wat soll ik sagen😊 ich habe nur. 25 KV aber es funktioniert echt gut der copter fliegt viel smoother irgendwie besser auf Steuer befehle🎉🎉👍👍👍 nur das einlöten in mein HP x12 Board war ein bisschen fummelig🤪 super Tipp💯☺️👍👍👍
@@user-wt5hi1ep3d Nice! Freut mich zu hören! Danke für das feedback! Sogar schon beim 802 25k. Das ist nice zu hören! Ja stimmt, das einlöten ist nervig. Vor allem weil die meisten boards nur löcher für 22AWG haben. Sprich mann muss beim 20AWG Kabel ein paar Litzen entfernen so dass ein teil des kabels ins Loch passt.. Ziemlich fummelig das ganze.. Aber wir sind uns ja rumfummeln gewöhnt von unseren whoops.. xD
bin aber nicht sicher ob jeder den Unterschied merkt bei harten manövern merkt man das die sind einfacher zu kontrollieren 😊 Power loops usw Ich habe die Litze verdreht und dann verzinnt Dann erst eingelötet Gehe davon aus daß es so dünner zum einfädeln ist😊
Have you tried changing motor cables? Stock 28awg looks to be tiny in comparison with 20awg that you are suggesting here. Sure, there are 4 motors, but the cross section area difference is 6.4:1. 26AWG should be a perfect fit.
No, but it`s a good idea! Thank you for the reminder! Today I saw that the VCI 08028 27k motor stock only has 30AWG! I will replace these with 26awg. Let's see whether this is an advantage like the AWG20 main cable or whether it is enough of an advantage over the weight penalty.
I wasn't entirely sure until now either. But with this build I felt it very clearly now. And that's perhaps why my 75 802 27k build was so efficient, because I also used AWG20 there. From now on I will definitely only use AWG20 on high kv 75mm whoops. I suddenly started using AWG22 again because I no longer had AWG20 and I thought that the difference wasn't that big. But now I know it was a mistake.
15-30 seconds is actually pretty considerable given how fast those motors draw current - and will probably make those motors more viable for racing (though ti agree it still sags lots). Great flying as always fam!
Hello my whoop friends! I can report something new about the VCI Spark 8028 27000kV motors: I have now changed the main cable from AWG22 to AWG20. And the voltage is now a little less and the flight time is significantly longer! I can now race around 2:30-2:45 minutes with the Dogcom 550mah 150C. And with the GNB 530mah 2:00-2:30min. However, the Voltage Sag is still strong for my taste. I wish the motors had less internal resistance. The conclusion about these motors is: They are super responsive. But the voltage sag is a bit strong. With a 12A flight controller, AWG20 main cable, BT2.0 Plug, good lipos, they can still be flown well enough. And the conclusion of the main cable is: AWG20 is definitely better for 75mm whoops with high kv motors. It somehow makes sense because the Lipos also come with AWG20 cable. And I can report: The new Zenchansi Cam is actually PAL and not NTSC. But I only noticed the reduced frame rate in special lighting situations. I still think it's a very good cam because it has such a good picture. That's why I'm going to buy a few more of them... But for crazy racers like neon fpv and tdog fpv the frame rate is too low. For the rest of the pilots, around 90% of them, it's ok in most situations in my opinion. Happy whoopin my friends! Whoop whoop! :-)
I would say about the same. Because I think the rcinpower has more kV than stated by the manufacturer. In any case, you can use both motors. Both are good motors. But I use the 1102 motors only for 45mm props.
The information provided by the manufacturer cannot be used. The angle of the lens is a little more than the betafpv C03 and a little less than the tiny whoop pinch cam I would say.
Power is insane, but flight time is attrocious. The more spare power you have, the less time you fly. Are you going to go further and try something like 1003 22k on 2s? It should be a blast. Can you include Ampere readings in your DVR, please? It's not accurate, but it's good enough for battery usage comparison between a builds. Especially, when using same board.
That's not quite right in my experience. The higher the kv, the lower the internal resistance and the more efficient the overall system. It really depends on what you do with the whoop. In my case the flight time is of course shorter because I can use the power, that's true. But that doesn't bother me. 1:30-2:00min full send is enough for me. And full send means full send in this case 🙂Yes, I can try with the ampere readings on the boards that have a built-in ammeter. I don't think I'll test another 1003 22k on 2S. I think I'll stick with 1S. Perhaps. But only when I'm done with all 1S projects... And that can take a while xD
@@dezelvol Honestly, it's just my experiences from testing nd racing. What I know 100% is that high kv motors and low resistance throughout the system are the most efficient for whoop racing. As long as you mainly move in the most efficient speed range of the motor. And if you want maximum possible power for the entire flight. So as you say it's complicated. But the principle for me is: the lowest resistance of all parts in the system is the best for me and racing.
@@butterflyfpv there is great motor testing on SiieeFPV channel. Basically, motor is most efficient on it's rated max rpm with some load. It's because throttling of brushless motor is highly inefficient. But prop is getting less efficient with rpm. So people often confuse motor and prop efficiency. Less resistance means less torque on same rpm and load. But higher kv motor will make more load on prop as it will try to reach more rpm on same throttle. It creates illusion of more power. But if you compare less kv will bigger prop with more kv and bigger prop, it'll be identical. Except, bigger prop is mechanically more efficient. I've tested bunch of motors and from efficiency perspective, you want smallest and slowest motor as far as it can handle weight. 75mm 0802 19k kv can hover 10 minutes on 720mah. But this time will reduce if you use 25k kv. Also additional power will reduce flight time even more of you push it. Sure, I can be wrong, it's just my experience. It would be nice to see your Amp ratings on DVR.
@@dezelvol Yes it`s very complicated. I watched some videos from siieefpv. The only thing I can say for sure as a Racer is that low kv makes no sense for racers who want a 5inch like flying. And if you do everything right with high kv (ESC firmware settings, no motor plugs, AWG20 main cable, BT2.0 main plug, Best Lipos with the highest C-Rate, low pitch props) you can fly it long enough and have the best possible power. Of course, you can hover longer with low kv. But this is only of interest to beginners or cruisers. The low kv motors are not efficient in racing mode. Especially because the power in half of the lipo is already so weak that you just crash around (or you have to slow yourself down extremely). So you can't use the entire possible flight time with low kv in the real world (of fast racing).
Ok du bist Deutsch das ist geil erstmal Abo da gelassen ich hab das shutterbug 75mm build und dadurch whoops lieben gelernt ich will jetzt den ultimativen 65mm bauen welche parts würdest du jetzt empfehlen habe letztens gesehen gibt 30k kv von beta flight die sind aber klein wenig schwerer als die 27k. Meinst du die neue can die du gepostet wäre sinnvoller als die gute alte runcam Nano?
Hey willkommen mein whoop freund!🤜🤛 Nice! Genau bei den betafpv motörchen kannst du beide nehmen. Ich persönlich mag gern lieber mehr kv. oder lieber zu viel als zu wenig. Die neue Cam wäre auf jeden fall gut wenn du sehr schnell fliegst. Aber ehrlich gesagt kannst du auch mit den nanos schnell fliegen. Das wichtigste ist dass viele flugtraining. Und dass du nicht ständig zwischen kameras wechselt. Mal auf eine setzen und dann goooo🤙 üben üben üben.. 100h, 1000h, usw. 🙂 Und für deinen ultimativen whoop ist es einfach wichtig dass du unter 18g trocken kommst (besser 17-17.5g). Sprich betafpv air frame, ein leichtes canopy, 702 motoren mit 27k oder mehr, Motorschrauben M1,6 x 3 aus reny oder titan, die neusten gemfan 3-Blatt oder HQ 3-Blatt props in den light versionen, ein leichter Flightcontroller (zb betafpv f4) und direkt angelötete motoren ohne plugs sowie A30/BT2.0 Hauptstecker, 300mah Tattu oder dogcom z-fold lipos. Das ist eigentlich schon alles.. Und wenn du viel mit anderen fliegen möchstest dann ein guter vtx wie tbs nano 32 oder happymodel OVX300.
@@butterflyfpv ja ich hatte überlegt ob ich das Diamond Aio nehmen soll dann spare ich mir das Gewicht vom VTX. Oder sagst du ich bin mit den betafpv und nem tbs nano mehr zufrieden 😁
@@BobBobsta Diamond ist ok, aber wenn du viel mit anderen zusammen fliegst (mehr als 3 piloten gleichzeitig) dann definitiv betafpv und tbs nano oder ovx300. Ist nicht viel schwerer. Und wie gesagt viel viel besser wenn du mit anderen fliegst..
Quite disappointed there’s no commentary. We can look iphone photos and flight footage all day long. It’s your unique opinion that I would value way more than specs.
You're absolutely right, but I don't speak English! And unfortunately I can't learn it anymore. But that's why I wrote the info in the video description for many videos. Often very detailed. Have fun browsing my channel.
thanks for sharing! i was looking at the pinch cam for so long but didnt dare to order because i am in europe. this cam is cheap and easy to get :) lets see if its an upgrade to the runcam nano3 -- just have to get some plugs. does it fit in the mobula canopy or do you have to print one yourself?
Damn, I thought I finally found a camera available for EU pilots as well. Great image quality, weight, dimensions and price. Then I see your comment and I feel sad. Hopefully they will make an NTSC version as well because that's what we need!
@@butterflyfpv NTSC transmits 30 frames per second with each frame having 525 scan lines. Whilst PAL transmits at 25 frames per second with each frame having 625 scan lines. So NTSC is better for racing. The video is much smoother. It's really familiar.
@@pavelfpv1280 Thank you! Ok that makes sense. But you should try this cam anyway believe me! Its a goode cam for racing! I like it, and I had troubles with many cams before to see everything at my speed. But no problem with this cam. Maybe there is a small downside at justice fpv tdog werdna and neon fpv speed.. edit: I watched your videos on your channel. Should not be a problem for you (as it is no problem for me too). I think you will like this zenchansi cam too. Even with PAL.. :-D Give it a try my friend..
Thanks for your video that made me know about this camera! I will definitely try it! If you can see everything fine at higher speed, then I'm starting to think it's NTSC. The difference between NTSC and PAL is really noticeable, if you have a PAL camera at home and compare it to an NTSC camera, you will definitely recognize the difference. Thank you for visiting my RU-vid channel! Whoop is the way!
Finally! the analog whoop guys finally get another viable option for our whoops! Personally, it ticks all the boxes on what I want in a tinywhoop cam and overall performs pretty well. What intrigues me is the 1.2g weight and only having a 11x11 board size which definitely will make it something easy to put on micros. Might get my hands on it if I can hehe. Great Content as ever!
@@butterflyfpv looks like some of their products can be bought in my local online website! ill wait and see if they start selling there...if they do I'll get a whole bunch!
Hello my whoop friends. There is a new FPV cam on the market in a tiny whoop pinch cam format. In my eyes it is a lightweight decent good camera for racing (with good light situation in the room) and outdoor flying during the day and before and after the sunset. The picture has good contrast. I can fly very quickly with it and still be able to see everything. The wide angle is bigger than with the betafpv C03 camera but less than with the tiny whoop pinch cam I would say. The only disadvantage in my eyes is that when there is a certain lack of light, the image becomes blurry. This means that the cam is probably not suitable for racing on LED tracks. And the plug has to be soldered on yourself. The cam comes without a plug. In any case, in my opinion it is worth testing this cam. Maybe you like it as much as I do? 0:00 Indoor Racetrack Perfomance 2:45 Outdoor in Bright Daylight 3:51 Outdoor Evening after Sunset 4:58 Low Light Conditions I bought the cam on aliexpress: de.aliexpress.com/item/1005006676118784.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.4.470f5c5fP3ParG&gatewayAdapt=glo2deu Happy whoopin! Whoop whoop! :-)
now that you mention it, my mob 6 2024 edition also gets blurry sometimes and I never knew why it did that since it only got blurry at a certain dark spot in my room. i really like this camera and I think happymodel should make a jump to use these if they can cause I never liked the nano 3 but 1.1g is hard to beat. Honestly, kinda good it didn't come with a connector as I personally like to just solder everything directly. This greatly reminds me of my fave current cam, 199c V2 Camera, which is similar but a little heavier and slightly lower FOV.
It's a great camera, I have been running it for the last 6 months. It does get blurry in dark places.. but when you compare it to a pinch where you can see shit I'd take the blurry every day of the week. Did a back to back test for that exact reason, though my video has upscaled quality ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vhygXCZuJ5g.html
How you managed to squeeze fc and vtx into mobula frame? Have you modified(cut) the frame? Also wandering, how it can be less efficient if it hovers on less throttle? Is it less efficient only when flying hard? I've tried long range build(or rather long time) with beta95x frame, and pusher is ~20% more efficient when hovering (9A vs 11A with puller). Can it be that efficiency problem is caused by propeller placement in ducts? Mostly it's desirable for the prop to consume air in every direction, but it should blow into duct, so it helps to direct air like jet engine nozzle. But when you build pusher on standard whoop frame, propeller is placed in the way that it works opposite - air intake is limited by ducts, but output stream is spread, because propeller is on the lowest edge of a duct.
It is a flightcontroller with integrated vtx. Pictures of the whoop are in the last part of the video. Thats interesting with your beta95x build. Maybe it is only when flying fast (racing). That might make sense. But personally I'm only interested in racing and flying fast. That's why pusher configuration is definitely more inefficient for me. Yes, I think your thoughts are correct. There are very many many factors. You can find a lot of information about it on the internet. Unfortunately, there are also many myths. A myth is that pushers generally are more efficient. They definitely aren't. But they can be in special areas of application. But in principle, with quadrocopters, any turbulence in front of the propeller should be avoided. After the propeller in the exhaust air flow, obstacles are less tragic. Unfortunately I can't explain everything to you either. I just know that it is definitely easier to do a puller config for racing. Pusher is possible but harder with many factors. But I might still experiment with pushers in the future. I think the most important thing is to experiment and have fun with it :-)
Looks really cool. What frame is that? I can't fit fc and digital vtx in mobula7 v2 (for 1s). Currently waiting to receive meteor75, but it would be nice to know what to order. Also searching for uruav uz85 frame for lightweight 85mm, but, unfortunately, it seems, it's out of existence 😢
Hello my Whoop Friends. I was very happy when I saw that VCI was producing new Whoop motors. I wanted 1002 high kv motors but when I saw the VCI Spark 8028 27000kv I thought I would give them a chance too. And I learned something: Motors with a light bell and/or small diameter can apparently change speed much more quickly (which is somehow logical). In any case, the first feeling of flying was fantastic. But then the voltage came. I think it has to do with the high internal resistance of the motors. If this could be kept as small as in the rcinpower 1002 22000kV motor then the VCI Spark 8028 27000kV motor would be the perfect whoop motor for 75mm whoops (at least in a 1.5mm shaft version). I'll talk to VCI about it. In any case, the motor as it is now, is not good enough for my standards. The voltage sag is simply too big. With the motor plugs the motor is completely unusable for me. Without plugs it just works. But it's not really good yet. Low internal resistance is absolutely key for whoop motors I guess. Maybe VCI can make a better version 2 of the Spark 8028 27000kV motor with lower internal resistance and short 1.5mm shaft.. And lighter.. 2.2g would be ideal. I hope so.. P.S.: I tried everything: 24-96khz esc firmware and motor timing low to high. Nothing helped to bring the voltage sag to a tolerable level Let me know what your experiences are with these Spark 8028 27000kV Motors in the comments.. And if you like this new whoop cam.. Happy whoopin my friends! Whoop whoop! :-) 0:00 Racetrack 1 with GNB 380mah Lipo 2:18 Racetrack 2 with Dogcom 550mah Lipo (full lipo) 4:37 Racetrack 3 with Dogcom 550mah Lipo & GNB 380mah Lipo 8:33 Racetrack 4 with with GNB 380mah & Lipo Dogcom 550mah Lipo 11:23 Racetrack 5 with GNB 380mah Lipo 15:09 Racetrack 6 with Dogcom 550mah Lipo 16:38 Pictures of the Whoop Also note the other videos on this channel, the option to subscribe to this channel and my other channels.
