The Starter Sprag Cutch is Gummed up Run the engine up tp temperature and change the Oil a couple of times....the Starter clutch will usually free up..
Thank you! There's lots of other BS out there that doesn't work on stubborn old paper gaskets, and I appreciate the 2 minute duration compared to some of the 10-15 minute videos. Who has time for that when working???
The 920 was one butt ugly bike. That being said I did own an '85 Maxim 700. It was a good sandwash bike. Your build is spectacular. It's too bad Japan can't do bikes like that from the factory.
My uncle Phil has had the 175 scrambler in almost perfect condition for 50+ years. He passed about a month ago and it looks like I'm going to get to take it home Monday.
Quite adequate description of growing up in a small town outside of another small town outside of a city. I laud the gleaming perspicacity of the intro monologue. Well done chap
my father has been riding his cbr1100 all year long for 20+ years now, thing has more than 300.000 km on the speedo😅 rain, ice, snow, sun, heat .. this bike has seen it all
haha small town America at its finest! I graduated in '05, so many of friends enlisted and did tours in Iraq/Afghanistan. Was I the smart one or the dumb one for going to college instead? the jury's out...
you're a smart guy! the front end on these certainly aren't the best. The previous owner, however, recently put upgraded springs and cartridges in the front end. So we're good to go!
Great quality of your video, fell that u put effort to make theese good :) Well im not into Bikes like that but i subbed anyways. Intresting to see what you are doing :)
Hello just watch all the videos on this build love what u did...I'm in pa as well and would like to be able to pick your brain on some things. I have a 1982 xv750 think bout using parts from an 83 xv920
When you were moving the sliders from the engine mount to the frame, did you support the engine form the bottom (to prevent the engine from dropping down a bit) to remove them and install the OEM bolts in place?
Hi, just found your channel. I’m doing a TR1 virago and ive been looking for a tank. Are you looking to sell that silver tank (option 1 in the video)? Thanks
Great video. The only problem I'm having is finding all the gaskets to replace on the fuel pump unit. Man, if you could point me in the right direction, that'd be awesome
I love it! I've always been inspired by these virago builds, mine has unfortunately been sitting for some time and I couldn't find time or motivation to keep working on it. But watching your video is giving me powerful inspiration to bring my project back to life. Thank you for your build!
Kene sing wong gedeng wegah dolann karo russia israel cino america...wegah ra mutu.politik nerak kabeh podo Indonesia rajelas utkeke ibarate kon binasamke dunia nyatane ra terjadi karo omong kosonge raono hentine.
yep! instead of installing the block-off plates you could use large rubber vacuum caps. I just prefer to spend the little bit of money and get rid of the whole system though.
Which ground? the ignition coil is grounded through it's mounting to the frame. The kill switch works by branching off of the magneto wire (the one that goes to the coil). When you push the kill switch it grounds that wire, thereby grounding the ignition and cutting it. All other electrics on this bike were stripped. Do you still have lighting?
@@two-cargarage i do not have lighting, I also have it fully stripped like yourself. The only wire i have is the black lead wire that comes off of the stator and up to the ignition coil hooked up to the ignition coil & to the kill switch wire, but the kill switch isn’t working (which is ok but may be pointing to the issue) and I am getting spark jumping to the frame & very weird idle because the spark is jumping to the frame. I suppose? I am going to remove the stator completely and see how that is plugged up. Any other suggestions?
@@bmwm340ix6 I would leave the stator alone for now if you're getting spark. for the push-button kill switch to work the handlebar needs to be sanded down where the 'contact' pushes down onto the bar to ground it. It's common to forget this step. with a wire wheel or sandpaper sand to bare metal under the kill switch. If it's a switch that grounds to the metal strap of the switch, then the strap needs to be in contact with bare metal. where is the spark jumping to the frame at? do you see it arcing?
Funny how times have changed when I first got mine I had a 1978 special I got it in 1980. New in Portsmouth Suzuki Yamaha back east as originally from California but stationed in the Navy out in Norfolk. And yeah I toured the entire seacoast on that bike. The shaft drive is excellent. It doesn't exactly smooth out the triple which vibrates a hell of a lot, but it certainly makes the bike frame smooth. One issue I did run into and I would pay attention to is the dogging lever for first gear. I ran into a situation after about 30,000 mi where it would kick out out of first gear. I'd let go of the clutch and clunk you drop out of first and I wound up having to start in 2nd. I sold it before I had it repaired but this was due to the lash in the driveline. Yeah unfortunately racing my buddy on his XS 650 which was much faster and doing Smokey. Burnouts did not do the driveline any good but just a thought. Good luck