Good vid. Point of correction - those are gen 2 mod 2. The regular gen 2 is solid all the way down. I bought those by accident because I agree with you - yours looking better. I called KNS and they said there is zero difference other than cosmetics.
Hey hey everyone, I have a 2009 R1 with 11,000 mi on it that I have not ridden much in the last 5 years because of the click clock on start and down on power. I knew there was something wrong with it but I couldn't get my head out of my ass to read online and figure out that the cam chain tensioner needed to be replaced. But all is well. Hopefully the bike wasn't ridden much and hopefully the motor not hurt which I don't think it is because as it's running it sounds fine except for the click clack on start. But my question is the video is pretty clear that when you're setting initial tension you screw the tensioner bolt all the way in till it stops and then you go a quarter turn more. But everyone in the comments seems to think you go a quarter turn back. So which one is it? The video is pretty clear that you go an extra quarter. Turn tight after you get it. Finger tight
I have realized that there almost all rider are suuuuper dumb.. Do you guys really think that this test is good?????????????????????? If this result is true then people's neck who wearing shoei would be gonna broken hahahaha super dumb.
Just found answer to my early question buddy, very informative video, however still have last question, after align the k mark and change the CCT, do i need to spin the crank sproket again to a certain degree? Or leave it as it and put everything back? 🙏
Roll the engine over slowly a few times. You'll notice as you get close to the K mark, the cams will almost pull or rotate the crank for you, and then it'll stop. This is because the valve springs are putting pressure on the lobes, and forcing them over. What you want is as close to the K mark as you can get, and AFTER that slight automatic rotation. You'll want to do this with the factory tensioner still in. Practice it and you'll know immediately what I'm referring to.
Buddy please tell me how you changed the chain tensioner, did yoh spin the crank to adjust them the k mark? Or just put some pressure with a screw driver and change without mess with the marks 🙏🙏
Move the crank to TDC, which would be the K mark. You will feel the cams roll over and not want to pull the crank. Then before you remove the old tensioner, put pressure on the intake cam chain guide to make sure the chain doesn't lose too much tension. Install the new tensioner and set tension.
Brother I searched high and low for this video I appreciate your point-to-point description and the time you took to leave details that are crucial to installing a manual chain tensioner for the Crossplane! ❤
Hey bro, I have a Yamaha R1 2010. I am looking to upgrade to the Renthal clip-ons. Did you have to make any cable modifications to make it fit i.e. were any of the cables too short, or were the OEM cables okay? E.g.clutch cable, throttle cable etc.
I know this video is 6 years old but could you help me getting my back timed correctly I believe that I am following the instructions in the manual correctly but maybe I’m missing something
NEVER use WD40 on anything mechanical. WD40 IS NOT a lubricant. It is a water dispersant. After the liquid evaporates it leaves a waxy residue that gums things up and leaves it in a worse condition than before. WD stands for Water Dispersant. 40 stands for the 40th formula the developers tried before they were satisfied.
I have been doing research on this topic and still learning. 2 excellent videos on this topic are by "fortnine". He tests various cleaners and lubes and rates them. In his tests he finds that kerosene actually leaks by the o rings, whereas wd40 does not. He also recommends gear oil as a lube. Another video by motorcycle magazine finds that wd40 does absolutely no harm to o rings. Both sources view wd40 as a cleaner but not as a lube. Based on these videos and others, I will be using wd first, then simple green as a cleaner; then gear oil as a lube.
I understand your thinking about keeping the chain clean, and WD-40 will help keep the chain playing. What it has no lubricating properties after the first few minutes of running the chain. It completely goes away because it is a solvent, it is not a lubricant. Yes it is quick easy cheap and useless for what you're trying to do with it. Just so you're aware, Tradesmen are not allowed to bring that stuff into an auto manufacturing facility. It is forbidden Auto facilities because it is not a lubricant. People were putting it on Drive chains for assembly line movement, and causing damage. Any other spray oil is far better than WD-40. In the 1980s somebody at the bright ass idea on stainless Firearms to spray the firearm before they entered a gun match. They were actually having guns freeze up in mid-cycle. Some of them couldn't even be unloaded. If you see this ignore the WD-40. Use any other lubricant but WD-40. I cannot say this enough. That is a horrible product to use for that purpose.
I know this is an old video but it’s still clearly relevant today. People have the idea that since WD40 breaks down rust it must break down everything it touches. It is perfectly safe for o-rings. I believe you are correct that proper alignment and tension have more effect on chain life.
I send this video to so many people starting to ride. This is the best one out there for new people that need a simple explanation and practice. Thanks for taking the time
Pretty chain on that bike. 1. When you are using a solvent and a scrub brush on anything, but particularly here, ALWAYS wear hand and eye protection. The brush is literally flicking solvent coated grains of sand and grit. One tiny grain of sand in your eye will feel like a jagged chunk of crushed pea gravel in your eye. Dermatitis on your hands makes them itch on the inside, you can't scratch it. It's frigg'n miserable. You did a thorough job for a chain that wasn't very dirty, but what you did could have been done easier by taking off chain guards and using a pressure washer. Then once a year or more often if needed, pull the master link, take the chain off and soak it in kerosene for a day to a week or so, then give it a good brushing, hang it up, spray with a non-petroleum cleaner like Super Clean, rinse, let air dry. In a clean pan, 30 weight motor oil, soak the chain for a day (to allow capillary action to pull the oil into where it needs to get into), then hang it up and let it drip till it's done dripping. DO NOT USE WD40 for chain "lube". It is much more a solvent than a lubricant. It has no "film strength" or "service duty". It can lube a door hinge, but not a motorcycle chain worth beans.
hi i have a 2012 r1 the engine noise is the same as sheared videos they changed the tensioner and the sound go so i buy ape manual tensioner i did what they did but the same noise still coming out any help plz i’m from iraq and we don’t have a good engineer
I hope you can help me🙏, I want to change the original tensioner for the original one, when I remove the old tensioner and put the new tensioner on (maintaining tension with the screwdriver), how do I unlock it to tighten the chain?
1 second ago Hi buddy thanks for this cool review 👍😎 this chain is some piece of art ! I want to order one for my 2019 CB1000-R, do you have an idea how the chrome one is color wise ?! I mean is it shiny chrome or just shiny grey as it looks on the website ? Thank you & I appreciate your reply
