Don - Congrats on the first flight! Been watching your channel for a while. Was looking for earlier videos of the build but the earliest I could find was "WAR Corsair Retract Demonstration", ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-IelEQOXhHPU.html. Are their earlier videos or photos of the beginning parts of your build?
Don! Don’t listen to anyone! You can’t over engineer when it’s your aircraft. As I said before a plane doesn’t make it to production without a few hundred hours of testing, reengineering, back on the flight line, back to the hanger, etc!! Then a few more hundred hours, or a thousand hours of testing again. Let’s put them behind the stick and say go. Keep on doing!!
WOW! At least 12 years in the making from what I can tell from the videos on your channel. What a great accomplishment! Well done! What a beautiful airplane!
Don i have to agree with some of the comments on here and that is don't mix the oil cooler with engine coolant because if you do research on the 2008 dodge caliber they have the tranny fluid cooler part of the radiator and they ended up leaking and mixing tranny fluid with antifreeze and ruined the transmission. I have a 2008 dodge caliber and i cut the lines from tranny to transmission and added a add on air cooler and it also dropped the transmission temperature works great. I think if it was me i would get a oil filter relocation kit and when installing it i would put a add on cooler inline on the oil filter kit. Just a thought hope it helps.
Before you start instaling oil cooler, try to make small spoiler on the bottom of your cowling to create vacum inside of engine compartment, it can incease air stream and improove your cooling.I am using Subaru engine in my UL plane and this spoiler improved my cooling about 10 degrees of celsius on my watwr temp. Of course I dont have cooling radiators in the wings but oil is cooled inside of the block through coolant. You can also try to make small spoilers on the bottom parts of the wings because there is positive presure and you need vacum behind coolers...Just piece of card board and duck tape...
I stated in the video, that I won't do anything until after I test the radiator outlet mod. If it still runs warm, then I will look into an oil cooler.
Have you done any pressure testing to see if you are really getting airflow thru the radiator coils (while taxi testing)? I spent a lifetime designing systems around these type of air coils so I know a little about the subject. The new coils you bought are quite restrictive to airflow due to the density of the fins and the overall width of the coil. Drawing ram air at the leading edge of the wing seems a strange place considering you have aerodynamic lift occurring here, at the same time counting on ram air thru the coils. As a minimum this would seem to create additional turbulence right at the wing root, which is typically a critical point of the stall regime. Another point is aerodynamically there is a "stagnation point" in air pressure at the leading edge of the airfoil, which is approximately where these radiators are located. My point is that it seems unclear to me how much, if any, ram air pressure you will get thru the air coils. And certainly this will be different at different speeds and attitudes. For instance, will you get less ram air pressure during a climb when you need maximum cooling the most? I'm also wondering how the location of these radiators has on the stall characteristics of the aircraft? I'm guessing this must have been done successfully before but I would at least try to get some data on the air coils that were used successfully and compare them to yours, if you haven't done this already. In regards to stall characteristics I would approach stall testing with a lot of altitude and a parachute. I really think you are completely in test pilot, one-off situation with this aircraft. In fact, if it was my plane I would spend the money to have a certified test pilot perform the stall testing. I have not followed all of your build videos so maybe you've already reviewed this issue. As you know, an over-heated engine is one of those failure modes that can occur quickly with a guaranteed engine failure if not addressed quickly. These are probably issues you've addressed already but as a experimental aircraft builder as well, I had to add my 2 cents. Your aircraft is a tribute to your many skills and craftsmanship and is a beautiful aircraft! What you have created is exceptional on every level!
The real Corsair use this same place to put the engine oil coolers and the supercharger coolers. So I'm pretty sure Mine will work too. We will see on the next flight, if cutting the outlets larger helped. Thanks for the input. I already did three stalls on the first flight.
That plane will never fly again. BULLSHIT!! Don, this is so AWESOME!! You are on Top of your Game. You are getting it figured out, I never doubted it since I came across your build about 3-5 years ago. I think. I know it's been a while that I have been watching. Looking for more updates. Thanks!1
I am enjoying watching your videos. There is a lot of good information. I am building a War Corsair. What new tail wheel are you using now? I would like to get one. Thank you
There Are Old Pilots, and There Are Bold Pilots, But There Are No Old, Bold Pilots! You get the job done safe and right! Thanks Don get well quick! 🤟Great work as always!
I'm curious how much more effective the flaps will be, once you get the linear actuator replaced and are able to get them to go to Full, without the filler pieces. I'm worried that the filler pieces will bend, because of the pressures exerted on them. Since your radio is such a handful to operate, you may want to upgrade that to one that is more user friendly.
The gear drive will run cooler if there is a funnel shaped duct (split two piece) around it that grabs cool air from outside the prop hub diameter. As it is now the prop hub blocks direct flow of cold air and hot air is recirculating in a ring vortex. Heat transfer by radiation is base on the temperature difference between the emitting object and receiving object to the fourth power. The temperatures for this equation are degrees Kelvin. There may not be enough temp difference between the drive and the cowl to move much heat but no harm in trying. Hot engine components in line of sight of the drive are radiating heat into the drive. Cowl flaps or a gap would help and the flaps were on the original.
Thanks for the insight. The original aircraft was air cooled too. A water cooled engine doesn't rely on air flow over the engine to cool it. It can't hurt though.
@@Dynodon64 For convective heat transfer, compare the surface area of all the fins and tubes in the radiator to the surface area of the engine. Outstanding plane you made by the way.
There’s many ways to get a job done. I’ve seen many people question your judgment and I did as well with a particular tailwheel mod you did, but you’ve accomplished everything you have set out to do with success, so I personally am going to sit back and watch the magic happen with your mods. Keep up the great work Don! Amazing job!
While I’ve grown old watching you build her, you proved us wrong. With hat in hand, and a sincere apology for my sarcasm, well Done sir. Well done. I wish you had a back facing camera, you must have been smiling. That had to have felt amazing.
I don't like the oil cooler idea because of the added risk of leakage/ failure. Water exchange oil cooling is famous for leaking inside, water in the oil, and again more risk and complexity and minimal results. A robust water cooling system can control any engine heat. If there is a thermostat instead of leaving it out, which can cause flow cavitation, the trick is to remove the guts of it, put the body of it in to give restriction. Or if thermostat is prefered try a cooler temperature one. That engine should be able to be cooled better in the air than in traffic in a car. And I think more pitch, lower rpm, use the torque of the flat 4. Oil pressure guage is useful as is a vacuum guage which can monitor engine load somewhat. Also as in rc models, the Corsair will slow down greatly for landing because of the radial cowl, all rc models with radial cowl do. Beware the stop and drop, tip stall landing. The 1/5 scale Corsairs land at 1/4 throttle with full flaps. Armchair engineer signing out..
This engine is stock fuel injection. You can't remove or use a lower temp thermostat. You would have to reprogram the ECU, and this older model is not programable.
@@Dynodon64 We disagree. My experience as a mechanic I have found many people think the ECU is all godly in control of mixture, temp, exhaust. In some auto's perhaps but in most no. The range of fuel mixture control is small. The ECU will run the engine richer when cold and then go to regular setting. The claims that an engine has to run at hot temps to burn modern fuels is false. Perhaps to minimize emissions but truth is engines perform better and last longer at a cooler temp. I have done it many times. Put in a lower temp thermostat may be the only change you need. Self inflicted high temp with a 193° car thermostat. Same trick employed on outboard boat engines, punch out the thermostat, when engine gets hot there is no such thing as over cooling, but aircraft having more faster airflow, like many WW2 fighters the cooling was regulated by cowl and radiator flaps. A thermostat is actually a risk, many cars overheat from a stuck one. If the radiators are robust enough to control the heat the engine can produce, then you got it made. Any engine runs great at 160 to 180° like in the old days. That's why they make cooler thermostats. Some believe the reason cars are made to operate at higher temps is to shorten engine life. As you drive your car and it is warming up there is no harm to it. You actually go through a period of best temp on the way up to the super hot engine. If you ever were in to racing you know any engine performs better cooler than hot.if a cooler or punched out thermostat made the temperature really to cold to preference, then that would prove the radiators are robust enough, then you chose a thermostat to set temp where you prefer. 180° will be best. Perhaps you will end up with no thermostat and adjustable radiator flaps. I'd be damned if I would have it where a stuck thermostat could cause me a crash landing. Armchair with much experience signing out
@@captainaxle438 Ever wonder why my name is DynoDon? I used to own a Dynojet dyno. I tuned fuel injected vehicles. Every fuel injected vehicle has a lot of different fuel tables in the ECU. One of those tables is referred to fuel enrichment vs coolant temp. As the engine warms up, fuel enrichment reduces. If that enrichment is full out by 195 degrees, you cannot put in a lower thermostat. It will always be looking for that temp to stop the fuel enrichment. Then it will run rich. The computer in this airplane is from 1990. OBD1. It is not as good as OBD2. I can not run a colder thermostat without the engine always running in cold enrichment, choke mode.
@@Dynodon64 OK that's some knowledge. Most of my thermostat experience is from the carburetor days. I still believe engines are better at cooler temps. Maybe if it stays rich it's not so bad. There's no emissions worry. Cooler valves, maybe monitor the spark plugs. Many car engines in the day running around on rich mode with engine light on. Other than that I wonder if thermostats are used in real aircraft engines, I like the idea of radiator flaps. Engine heat was a big concern on your flight. Maybe slightly cooler thermostat may help. It's already getting plenty hot. Maybe discover temperature required to go out of rich mode and shoot for that
@@Dynodon64 Dyno I have a new idea. Let me armchair talk to you. Let's assume the ECU is just fine at whatever temperature the engine is that it has the mixture adjusted from stone cold all the way to hot. Maybe it's not an issue to get it hot enough to switch to a leaner mix. Forget the car application. Find out what temps the real aircraft engines, air cooled and water, range is. Punch out the thermostat guts, put in the frame to insure no cavitation and eliminate it as a possible failure item. Put some cable controlled exit flaps on radiators. Do some ground testing. Record temps and time needed to heat up at idle, tie it up and run it up and see if you can close and open flaps to change temperatures. Take manual control of the cooling system. Look at the radiators on a Messerschmitt BF109. They have the same system, a flap on the exit. A guy in England flew a restored 109 with the flaps set improper, closed yot much, and the engine overheat and blow coolant out the pressure relief valve. He panicked and did a forced landing damaging the plane. As you know air temp at altitude changes a lot. Manual control that beast. There's plenty of air available. Why use a thermostat at all. Regulate the air, not the water. Get it done while it's still hot weather so you know the cooler weather is not a factor. I also wonder about the throttle body, how susceptible is it to icing. I know WW2 aircraft had some thing called carb heat
I was wondering why you went with a Subaru engine. I wasn't aware of an O-200 being wider than the cowling width. I wonder if those Verner radial engines would fit inside that cowl? Such as the 7S or 9S...
The o-200 was too wide to fit. The cowling is wider than it is tall, to get it to fit. I wanted better power and lower cost to operate. The Rotec radials, one is too small, and the other is too large to fit. Not to mention, they cost more than the whole plane.
Hope you get better soon. One question, the actual spinner it not that round shape as the spinner of the real Corsair, do you have plans to change it in the future for a round one ??
I really like your tailpipe mod & I really like your new switch for your flaps and the new actuator you got and your plans for beefing it up. I like your idea for the cowl slaps. I think it would increase your airflow and dramatically reduce your oil temperature. I really love your plane.😊
I’ve seen two of these engines on cowled aircraft that had the Oil Cooler Relocation setup but they were also a double filter side by side setup and they also had fins machined into the housing but weren’t very deep. There was a reason the two owners went with the double filters but I walked in late on the story… I didn’t take any pictures for some reason but I can contact a buddy that would probably know them and either get pictures or their info for you. They also had unpainted bare metal but also had some custom cooling fins that sat on top of the mounting bolts and used thermal epoxy to help pull heat away. Anyway that just popped to mind when I saw you talking about yours.
Yes, I agree, don't overthink this and add engineering complexity, try and move the battery up and to the right in the same plane to preserve your CG. Your new aviation grade oil cooler will bolt directly to the engine where the battery is now. Provide AN rated lines to the cooler and don't constrict flow with the fittings. Test fly with the new flap motor and determine sink rate with various degrees of flap and power. As some here have suggested, you may wish to limit flap travel after testing. You may want to narrow the openings in the wing roots for the radiators. Try to create a plenum behind the radiator to let the air expand. Check out the ME-109 radiator installation that lets the air expand using movable flaps. Good video, thanks.
Yeah all these mods are adding weight.....that not the best. But yeah I get you need an oil cooler. Also you said nothing about changing your prop pitch to slow that motor down. That thing not going to take 6,000 rpm for long periods. What oil pump do you have? The 2.5 sti pumps have wider gears and more flow. Susie's have pretty narrow berings, so anything you can do to help oil flow/ pressure / temp is a good thing.
The battery was put there to bring the CG into limits. Oil cool won't get enough airflow through the cowling. That's why I mentioned cowl flaps, as a last resort.
How extensively will you cycle/test the new actuator in terms of load and number of cycles before you install it? As a homebuilt, are there any rules/requirements in this regard? I hope the new radiator openings and cowling vents cure the heat issue - I'd hate to see you add more fittings and hoses. Thanks for the update!
13:30 do you think that 210 degree water is going to cool 240 degree oil? You would be better off using air to cool the oil.. I always thought those water/oil exchangers were to help the warm water to warm up the oil.. the oil is normally slower to heat up..also, you don’t have to get the oil to 212+ in order to get the moisture out.. 180-210 is enough.
If he puts the oil cooler on the return circuit from the radiator, he can certainly cool the oil before the coolant returns to the engine water pump. However, that will transfer some heat load to the coolant radiators that may not be able to reject it to the air fast enough. The larger opening mod may take care of that though. Oh, just for a comparison, the typical coolant to oil HX operates with a coolant feed like the heater core of a vehicle ie at engine coolant temp. So it naturally allows oil temp to be quite a bit higher than coolant at 190-210 degrees F. I don’t think 240 is really out of line and would not add the oil cooler until I was sure the radiator mods leave room for more heat rejection.
I'm looking to bring down the water temps, that will help cool down the oil as well. All of the supercharged cars out there today use water to air coolers under the blower. Blowers put out over 300 degrees at max boost.
@@Dynodon64 if you use an oil/water exchanger and you think that 240 degree oil is going to cool down the 210 degree water? I must be missing something..
