This is a great video, Warren, as usual! I found it while trying to find someone I know and trust who would recommend 1/4 inch line for 4-strokes. i just ran out of the first 10 feet I bought about 3 years ago (tells you how much work I've done in 3 years) but I wasn't crazy about the Gates hose I bought because it was very stiff to work with. Hoping this hose sold by Stens is a bit more flexible. Great to know about the Honda-sized hose as well - I was wondering what the thinner hose was. I do have one thing to add here as the most recent commenter because I saw two comments about Tygon not being any good. Here's what I responded to both of those individuals: Genuine Tygon is the best you can buy for 2-stroke machines, but you have to make sure you're not buying knockoff stuff. Genuine Tygon is imprinted in white lettering on the line and will say Tygon F4040-A as well as the French name of the company, Saint-Gobain. Knockoff line may be described as tygon (lower case) and it may be yellow, but that's about it. Make absolutely sure it has the white lettering as I described it. If you can't see the lettering in the pictures of the product, then move on to the next. I purchase mine from USPlastic but there are other suppliers. It isn't cheap, but it IS the best!
i want to try this and am looking for a cable to use locally as my auto choke is toast .. how do you keep tension on the cable to hold its position with vibration? thanks
@@mattbaker6818 The part number was superseded but it should perform the same. Maybe they upgraded the newer one and that’s causing a problem with the old one? Maybe? Hell, I’m still waiting for the freaking coil. It’s on back order at partstree.com.
Hey, Warren! I’ve had to replace a diode once so far, so of course I still have the rest of the pack of 20. I’d probably have just soldered into that wire a diode and called it good instead of spending the money on a replacement magneto. Did a replacement actually fix the issue? I’m guessing that part of the harness is not original and someone sourced the wrong one. Sorry, no idea whether the right magneto was actually defective and had a failed internal diode. I wonder how many years that machine was running on one cylinder!
The new coil isn’t here yet. The wire harness is original and hasn’t been tampered with. I never thought that the coils may have an internal diode. That’s something I need to look into. If it was my mower I would just install the diode and be done with it but on customer’s equipment I like to repair them so they are like they were originally.
@@wcjcnc Understood. I’m guessing about an internal, but given what you’ve just said I can’t think of any other possibility. I definitely would appreciate a followup video with whatever you figure out.
This is a dumb question but do you test it while plugged in the mower or like you have it there? You never put the meter on the plug to show either so I figured that it needs to be checked while on the mower.
your the first person i ever saw that knew about the function and critical nature of this check valvethank you for sharing most people dont have enough experience from when we used to repair and not replace parts
Rebuild your OEM carburetors. They are made better. Buy a knockoff to get you going in a hurry(maybe), or if money is not an issue, buy another OEM carb.. Much cheaper to learn to service your carb.s if you have the time and tools and skills. Not many good knock off carb. rebuild kits from China but one I have heard is ok, CTS. I have an order for 6 of their rebuild kits. The price of 6 for the cost of one OEM kit; hope they are as good as I have heard..The check valve parts don't come with all kits :-(
Thank you, my god! I just paid 20 bucks locally for the NIKKI rebuild kit, while trying to put on the tiny little sucker, it went flying! I did have a set of O rings, I think a little bigger than original. Cannot for the life of me get the white plastic part to set flush. If I take the O ring off, it will set. The jet doesn't want to go all the way in the tube. Seemed like the original was somewhat flat on each side. Maybe just worn that way. I guess I will head to harbor freight and get the box you have. The original plastic piece is much loser, is that simply worn or are the kits tighter?
@@wcjcnc Thankyou for the reply. On my carb (UK supplied) there's barely half a mm clearance between the seated jet and the brass tube so no room for the o-ring. Drilling down into the plastic to lower the seat could be an option. Thanks again from England.
@@tombley5760 That’s odd. I’ve put that O-ring into dozens of these carburetors. There’s just enough room so that the brass tube pushes the O-ring down against the top of the jet nice and snug but it doesn’t cause a problem. Maybe they’re made different over there. Who knows
WOW, maybe you can help again. I bought the kit, 20 bucks. The main jet, that is a tiny lil sucker. Well guess what? That sucker is now GONE, trying to put it on. So, where in hell can I get an O ring for that main Jet? Auto stores are slightly too big. After watching your video I am now convinced it is a specialty thing, again!! TY, I have spent a ton of time but I think you just save me twice as much.
Once had some new motorcycle batteries, that you could tilt a bit - and then they had no charge. But now I think I have found the problem with my lawnmover as it stalls when going forward uphill - but not backwards.
Look into the plug on the wire harness where the switch plugs in. If there are no metal contacts in the slots for those two pins then you’re OK. Sometimes the switch has pins just to keep you from plugging it in backwards. If the plug does have metal contacts in it where those two pins go then the switch is bad.
The choke rod has a bend in each end of it. The 90 degree bend goes at the bottom. The goofy looking bend goes at the top. Now that you know the top from bottom, hold the rod upright and point the bend at the bottom towards the engine. That’s how it goes on. Hook the top of the rod to the round plastic choke assembly on the carburetor. Just let it hang there. Install the carburetor. Now, there should be a small plastic clip in the flat little metal choke arm. That 90 degree bend sticks into a hole in that clip. Once it’s in there that little clip has a piece that snaps onto the choke rod to keep it in place. Those little clips can fall off when you take the choke rod off. If it’s not there look around on the ground, inside the muffler shield. Everywhere
An endoscope is a medical instrument which is far more sophisticated and expensive than these boroscopes that mechanics use. That said, I’ll bet I could use this one to check out inside my nose or ears or look at my tonsils! 😉😂🔧👍
I can see you grinning through this whole, video, Warren! Thanks SO much for sharing this! I’ve been agonizing about which boroscope to buy for a couple years and never pulled the trigger because they were always too much money or only came with a ridiculously long cable or were just not well designed for small engine work. Now I finally know which one I’ll get! Yay! Vevor either makes or sells a lot of pretty good items. I’ve had an ultrasonic cleaner from them for over two years that works just fine.
Most don’t keep it in stock in the store but they can order it for you, but trust me, it’s a pain. The best way to get it is to order it on eBay. Best price. I buy the two can deals. It’s expensive as hell but worth it because of the ease of application and how well it works.
Thanks so so much!!!! I couldn't figure it out why I couldn't stop the gears with the handle,almost dangerous.Sanding it a bit,did the trick,---- couldn't believe it,!!! Thanks for this video,___wow!
Great job! I just recently found out I had this issue and I was getting ready to take it to the dealer but wanted to find someone with a brain like yourself that already fixed this issue and I thank you for that!!
I used one on my vintage Jacobsen engine with good success, but I wonder how it would work with an Onan engine that uses a regular coil? The points function off of small rod on the block and not from the flywheel.
