great information I have a 2016 Chevy Cruz and I have the same code but I put a can of sea foam in the oil and the light went off but then two days later it came back on again
Just discovered your channel/store. Super great information you provide and great test kits. Plan on purchasing from you soon. I have a 2014 Cruze 1.4 RS and totally love my car. Just starting up do small upgrades to get her running even better😬🇺🇸
I built your tool, and there is hissing at what I call the valve cover. Can’t really get to 10 psi. My valve cover gasket is leaking lots of hissing. Is that my boost leak?
The OEM seals are pretty good on this car. You can keep leaks to a minimum by making sure your PCV system is working correctly, especially the intake manifold check valve.
Chevrolet Equinox 2018 error P0299 The check of the engine came out. Having checked with a capacitor, I found an error P0299 - a low boost value. I thought maybe something was accidental. I dropped it. After a while, I got out again. Have already checked: -parts of the intercooler and the intercooler itself (whole) -the turbine itself, visually and with the help of a scanner, as far as possible, while without removal (like everything opens and closes, there are no obvious visible damages) Tell me what could be? I'm from Ukraine. Thanks
Great information. Thank you so much. I’ve watched many of your videos. I have a few questions. 1. If the manifold pcv valve is missing, and I pressure test the system like this, what symptoms will I see to indicate the intake manifold check valve is problematic? 2. My car had two significant leaks- one at the throttle body and the other at the bypass valve. The car now gets to 20psi when before it didn’t. I am sadly still throwing p0299 code. I have repeated the boost leak test numerous times, the only thing I hear is a hiss from inside the valve cover, when I pull the dipstic, pressure is released and I can hear the hiss louder from the dipstick hole. Is it safe to assume at this point the turbo charger isn’t pressurizing the system as it should? What else should I check?
I saw your comment to someone else about the bypass solenoid valve. I will pick one up tomorrow hoping for the best. I really can’t thank you enough for all the videos and information.
@@roywalker270 pressure testing won’t reveal a manifold check valve failure unless you remove the pcv pipe prior to the test and spray soapy water down there. If you haven’t installed the cruzekits pcv fix kit yet, I’d start there. Your symptoms are pretty common for that type of issue.
@@AndreiDPop thank you for the reply, I’m looking at the different variations of the kit now. If I remove the corrugated pcv hose from the intake manifold, and apply pressure to the system, should there be any air coming out of that hole on the manifold?
@@roywalker270 there can be hole coming out of the manifold yes. But it shouldn’t be coming through the check valve at the bottom toward the firewall. You’ll need to spray that with soapy water to check for leaks.
@@AndreiDPop hey! I recently purchased kit v3.4. It had come in the mail today and installed it after removing the whole intake manifold. I have high hopes! The manifold is not stock “mitzone” brand. You cannot see the orange nipple from the pcv hole. I decided to remove the whole manifold to look and be sure. I was hoping to see it missing; however it is still there. This manifold looks like it was recently installed. I removed the nipple and installed anyway, hoping it is a faulty aftermarket. While putting the car back together, I thought about the other side of that orange nipple? Could it fall down inside the intake and be sucked into the cylinders? Have you seen this check valve be present and not be functional? Thank you for the kit!
Hey Dre, just replaced turbo, exhaust manifold, oil inlet and outlet pipe. Ran the car for a while ran great. Parked went out again and started smoking like crazy and looks like I can see oil coming out of the internal wastegate arm. Any ideas?
Hello, im currently going to be getting your v3 fix kit for the intake fix, however i am noticing a ton of differences on your engine. the coil pack as i am sure that is some sort of mod "I searched but found nothing like it and curious of the difference. Secondly the hose on the left side of the valve cover. I have seen some refer to this as an oil bypass? is it needed after you do the v3 intake mod? or just an addition to lower the amount of blow by oil from getting into other components.
Cool pack is the ls7 coils from badnewsracing.net. The hose on the left did of the valve cover is an oil return line for the AMSOIL single remote bypass filter. It’s a superfine small micron particle filtration that keeps more contaminants out of the oil. Not really a necessary mod but something I felt like doing for fun. It’s been working great for about 7 or 8 years now.
Gregg Walmsley before turbo replacement you should check cat converter. many times it gets stuck and it reduces exhaust flow and it causes low boost preasure.
Would a smoke test get similar results in finding a leak? If so, where would you connect it to to maximize coverage? Also, is there a better way to get a good seal between the charge hose and the throttle body?
Sometimes my Cruze makes 16 psi and sometimes it makes 2 psi. My turbo has less than 10,000 miles on it. Sometimes when I start it up and drive it it makes good boost. Other times it doesn’t make any thing. I haven’t done a boost leak test but like I said it’s not a consistent leak. Sometimes it makes 16 psi and sometimes it makes near nothing. It’s a stock tune. I wanna say it thinks it’s getting too much boost? So it’s opening the wastegate? Sometimes I can hear the wastegate opening and closing repeatedly when I keep the throttle steady. Any help?
Hi Dre, thanks for all the great videos you publish. I learned a lot from them, you definitely master this engine. I drive an Opel insignia with the same engine (B14NET) and since a while I get the P0299 error code as well. Now I wonder, it seems to me that they are not thrown at me until the engine is heated up enough. I'm not sure if that is completely heated up, but with a cold engine they won't show up. Do you have an explaination for that? Or even better, does that tell you what the root cause will be in that case? Because of that I'm pretty sure it's nog te turbo itself, faulty in that case is faulty at all times. It must be a boost leak, but in my case temp sensitive. Thanks in advance for any insights!
Check for intake manifold check valve failure (my pcv fix kit would address that.) Check for boost/vacuum leaks. Check for a sticking bypass valve solenoid (under the intake manifold on the right side - opposite of the throttle body). If all of those look fine, it could be the turbo wastegate housing crack has become too large.
@@AndreiDPop Wow, thanks for your fast answer. I checked that already, a few times as a matter of fact, just to be sure. And the last time I did, I doubted I maybe saw something orange after all, but very very tiny. How big and clearly visible is this end of the check valve if it's there? I'm planning on installing your kit anyway, but because of a family vacation coming up time is lacking me for now. So I will be forced to have a new manifold as it is installed for now. What a crappy invention was that, by design. The onces on $ 20 rubber rowing boats are better, last for at least 20 years. About your kits, which one would you recommend, seen the fact that you sell more versions?
@@ivarwoudsma5069 it should be very clearly visible. I’d recommend the v3.4 kit. It’s the best value, easiest to install, and it’s what 95% of people order.
Thanks again, Dre. It was far from clearly visible so that is definitely it. I'll have the manifold replaced and save the vacation in a timely matter. You're great and I love what you do!
Jerry @ BNR suspected i had a boost leak and after that i forgot ab it and added a forge atmospheric bpv. Now the car won’t build boost and almost doesn’t wanna shift because of it. does that sound consistent of a boost leak that has been made bigger because of the atmospheric bpv?
I have a 2012 Chevy Cruze ltz with the turbo. I replaced the turbo earlier this year and now for some reason I have no acceleration when I step on the gas. I would like to think it's a boost and I am planning on cleaning the charge pipes this weekend. Im curious as to whether or not if the exhaust manifold leaks boost and also if that would trigger a turbo/underboost code?
Yes, boost leaks would cause that underrboost code. Also, a missing intake manifold check valve would contribute to it. Check out my pcv fix kit for that on cruzekits.com
@@AndreiDPop I have bought both the boost leak tester and fix kit from you my friend, excellent work by the way. But would exhaust manifold have something to do with leaks as well?
Great videos! I did the boost leakdown test and found a massive air leak coming from the oil cap. Have poor fuel milage and codes P1133,P2096, and P0171. I have inspected inside the intake manifold and I can see the orange rubber plug is in place at the check valve. Could the plug still be in place and have failed? The valve cover was just replaced last week from by a shop due to these codes and symptoms.
As mentioned this can happen cause you're sending pressure into the crank case. Not the issue. Have you replaced or looked at your factory ignition coil? mine '13 Cruze with 110k was corroded to all heck and MPG was horrible with codes
I did the leak test and there is a noticiable leak at the throttle body. It's not the charge pipe though. I sprayed it with soapy water and I can hear the leak but it's not visible from the top. It almost feels like its on the bottom of the electrical side of the throttle body. All I can do is feel around under there and change the rate of the leak with my finger. Is the throttle body known to fail? Or should I assume it's more likely leaking where the TB mates with the manifold?
First off, love the videos, Just wondering if you have heard of a crankshaft seal leaking after doing the boost test? I geared up my own boost leak tester and fill up the system with 20psi. I did notice air leaking from the small vacuum hose that hooks to the turbo. I used soapy water to see it. Took the Cruze out for a drive and noticed a squeal much like a fan belt. Through further investigating ( RU-vid) seems to point to the crank seal. The noise goes away when I pull the oil dipstick then comes back when I put it back. I'm thinking the seal was gummed up and the air cleared it out. Now it's leaking.
Thank you both for the Video and the question I just bought this car and it is making the noise like a belt squeaking but stops when I remove the dipstick and it is sucking at dipstick hole please help me lol I don't have the money to take to a shop I'll have to do it myself. And it did have a engine light on the code was for low boost
Oil catch can kit. It is a PCV system that allows the oil to cyclone out into a replaceable filter medium that way it doesn't get all sucked into the intake manifold and dirty everything up. Look up "oil catch can kit" for further info.
How does this test work if your sending 20 psi behind a closed throttle plate and the possibility of 1 cylinder having valve overlap between intake and exhaust stroke.
Haven't had the issue with valve overlap. The throttle body is closed but air can push through regardless; it isn't a perfect seal. All I can say is, it works. I've had a few hundred orders for the boost leak test kit and it has helped a lot of people find external boost, vacuum, and coolant leaks.
Couldn’t I just use say a can of brake clean and hit potential leak points it would raise engineer rpm I know I’ve done that to check leaky intake gaskets on naturally aspirated engines granted your way is effective but I just don’t have access to a compressor at the moment
What type of gas do you recommend...i realized when i used mid grade i don't hear and knocking noise but when i use regular gas to save money i hear a knocking noise when i cold start the engine...or is this normal for this engine
If you have a smoke machine, I imagine you could, but most smoke machines done allow you to use enough pressure to test the car at the same pressure the turbo makes.
I made a pressure set-up as you described. I made sure I did not have more than 22 psi by sticking a nut driver in the hose end as I was regulating my compressor. I never built any pressure because air was coming out of the pcv hose connection at the turbo. This was a new hose I had just out on a little over a week ago. Thinking it had failed, since the car was running well for a week, I put the old hose back in, as I replaced it as a precaution since I was changing the valve cover anyway. Can you let me know why this is happening. BTW, I am working with a Buick Encore. Please help. Love your channel. This is my daughter's car and it is starting to work on my nerves.
Thank you very much for this info. Just did it to mine that was flagging underboost. First found a leak where a duct connects to the throttle body due the clamp loose. Then repressurized and while waiting for air to reach all the places I checked the exhaust to listen and heard nothing. But when i came back the the engine found it leaking air out the valve cover gasket. I could tell the gasket has been starting to fail since I saw evidence of very small oil leaks. Now my question for you, at 135k miles should I replace just the seal or the whole cover that comes with a new seal?
@@AndreiDPop changed the cover and the pcv pipe due to it breaking as soon as i touched it. I inspected the intake manifold and the orange nipple is still present.
So all was good, but the fault came back. Hooked up air, and I can hear air inside the intake manifold and the turbo. Waiting for the engine to cool down before I look into removing the turbo to inspect it. I am new to turbos and learning from your videos.
What if it onlt sets once in a blue moon... During last winter mine would set in while climing hill and would clear by itself after several days...( noticeable power loss when it happens).. But during summer was fine for the mostbpart but as the weather is cool in morning it has come back on again... Any suggestions? Tks
Yes but it’s being updated to a newer design that can do much more than the old one. You can order it off the site and I’ll ship all the parts out but I won’t have the video up till this weekend.
Is that the cruzekits site? I bought the 3.4v+ kit, replaced the cam cover, still getting that pesky p0299 code, hoping the turbo isn’t the issue, I see a little play in the wastegate pivot pin but not getting any other codes.
@@AndreiDPop Both my Cruze Ecos threw the P2 ect low boost code one I replaced the turbo and the other I just kept shutting the light off it's a faulty low boost senser and only comes on when you have the AC on and the engine is lower on power. I'm glad I sold my Cruze, got a truck now.
dear friend , i have just tested my car system like you and air is coming out from valve cover's screw which is air filter side. My car have boost leak problem as little bit , when it is accelerating boost is coming and going, what do you think ?
Hi Dan, have a 14 Cruze 1.4, P0299 code, smoked the vehicle, no leaks, passed pressure test, car drove fine, intake has the check valve, all sensors reading correctly, could not find anything wrong, replaced a turbo with a new one, same code comes back p0299, smoked the car again - no leaks anywhere, car drives fine just like before, any ideas?
Bypass valve solenoid. The one under the manifold on the passenger side. I wish you would have asked before replacing the turbo. Thats the first thing I recommend people check.
Hi Den, just wanted to let you know that bypass valve did fix the P0299 issue, tnx! Another issue came up recently though, I have a whistle coming from what sounds like my valve cover "I take the dipstick out whistle goes away", replaced a valve cover with an oem, whistle comes back within an hour, thought I got a defective cover, replaced with another new oem cover - same thing happens, after the vehicle warms up whistle comes back from what sounds like the valve cover PCV, take the dipstick out - it goes away, I don't think I have 2 bad valve covers in a row, smoked the car - no leaks, manifold has the check valve in place, any idea?
@@misha27060 check the intake manifold pcv pipe terminal. There should be an o-ring and a plastic retaining ring in front of it. If one of those is missing, it will cause a vacuum leak. You definitely have a vacuum leak somewhere.
@@quietpianist doesn’t say anywhere that it won’t. It will work just fine, but this is the old video. Theres a newer and better kit. You can find it on cruzekits.com.
@@AndreiDPopthank you. I pulled up the website link to the kit from the description. When I look at compatibility it only listed 2015 Buick Encore and newer.
I ENJOYED YOUR VIDEO IT WAS VERY INFORMATIVE . WHEN TIME ALLOWS CHECKOUT MY VIDEO SHORT TITLED THE CHEVY CRUZE AND ME MY STORY I THINK YOU WILL GET A KICK OUT OF IT .
@@AndreiDPop can a boost leak cause the P0299 turbo underboost code? thats what im battling right now, was going ot pressurize everything to see if theres a leak before assuming the turbo is shot
I am sure I am missing something here, but what is that 2 inch cap connected to? I nave a new 2017 Cruze, and the turbo is set up very differently from what is shown here.
The 2" cap is not connected to anything. It's there to block off the air from the turbo from escaping. Just a different way to do it than other people are doing it. The 2017 has the gen2 1.4L Turbo. Different engine. This is for the Gen1 Cruze.
Ahh, OK, fair enough. I wasn't sure if the 2017 engine was different, or just the plumbing on the outside. You actually answered several questions here. Thanks for the reply. Looks like I may need to do a bit more research on the Gen 2 engine. Not much out there right now, but I will dig in and see what I can find. Thanks again for the quick response. :)
Just pulled the top plastic cover off the engine in my 2017 Cruze, and yes, it is radically different. I it almost looks to me as if the exhaust manifold is actually built right in the cylinder head. Many other differences, but I will spare the details. Just wanted to confirm that the Gen 2 is quite a different animal from the Gen 1. Now if I could only find more info on it, other than just pictures without descriptions. Anyways, thanks again. Cheers!
Working on a friends 2011 Cruze that just set a 299 code when she was driving at highway speed (but not under acceleration). When I pressurize the system, the oil fill cap starts leaking when the gauge gets to 10psi. Is that a common leak source? I cleared the code and drove it about 30 miles, doing several WOT accelerations and the code never re-set.
@@AndreiDPop what will typically cause the 299 code besides turbo failure? Is there anything that you would recommend checking/testing before replacing it?
@@keeganmichael2722 Boost leaks and ;missing intake manifold check valve. Check the intake manifold and see if the check valve is either missing or dirty/gummed up. If it is, the best option is to order my PCV fix kit from cruzekits.com to address that.
When I drive sometimes around hundred in six gear my car just slows down by itself a little bit and it feels like it doesn't have its power like it should is that a boost leak
Should the turbo continue to spin after the car is shut off? I have a 2012 eco that has a high pitch whine after shutting engine off. Can’t nail down where it’s coming from. Definitely not the cooling fan. Is coming from somewhere deeply hidden.
Dre Dan also, do you think a mass airflow sensor would cause the po299 code? I had AutoZone do the scan and their print out suggests replacing/cleaning the mass air sensor
Dre Dan didn’t make sense to me either but i cleaned it anyways and still throwing the code. I’ll have to start working through everything from your site to see where the leak may be. Thanks for the feedback!
@@AndreiDPop I figured. I asked the tech at a Chevy dealership how to clean it and he said “no, you have to put in a new charge pipe” and yes that was over the phone without ever seeing the car
@@fivetoncasey2298 for silicone spray it’s the carrier that can deteriorate rubber. Spray on a rag then wipe it on the barbs if you’re concerned. I’ve never had an issue with it though.
Hey my man I found a leak at the Charge pipe/ throttle body connection, any idea if I should replace the charge pipe or the throttle body itself? Please get back at me. Thanks
@@danielvargas8975 Wrap the throttle body with natural gas-rated pipe thread sealer. The yellow stuff. Available at any hardware store. Then tighten it back on.
@@AndreiDPop yeah I figured it out. Had the low boost code pop up. Performed a boost test and didn't hear any leaks at 20psi. But it drops from 20 to 10psi in about 15seconds. Any ideas?
@@AndreiDPop your engine kit you have there I would like to do the same to my 15 Chevy Cruze please what's the website for that kit I wan to do all the same upgrades you did to your can you get me all the links for the kits please an thanks you so very much
@@AndreiDPopthat’s exactly what I’m dealing with. goes lean when braking. Has new MAF, new valve cover, new purge valve, new hose from intake to turbo. And the check valve is present in the intake. Really stumped right now.
Sounds like you need to address the valve cover leaks and try again. You shouldn't be leaking air anywhere in the valve cover. Hopefully you didn't go above 20 psi.
Totally shit design in this engines turbo system. I have Opel Astra 1.4, I believe it is called Buick in the states, anyway same engine as the Cruze and Sonic. Not to long ago my pcv valve broke and caused the oil air separator inside the tappet cover to blow out. My mechanic replaced the tappet cover but not the inlet manifold since none of the suppliers in my country stock it and the dealership want to charge an absolute fortune for it, literally nine times more than the U.S price. I ordered one on Ebay and it should arrive sometime next month, meanwhile the sensor on the charge pipe leading to the throttle body has popped off, presumably due to the system over pressuring or something. The engine is eleven years old so maybe it is just normal attrition on these rubber seals but it definitely makes me think twice about buying another turbo car. FYI I only have 42k on the odometer but I guess rubber perishes over time so mileage does not really matter.
@@AndreiDPop Yeah in retrospect I should have but I already ordered the manifold before learning about that. I guess it has taken 10 years to develop a problem so hopefully it will last at least that long and I will sell before then anyway.
You could do that, if you have access to one. Most people don't have access to one, and I'm not even sure if one would create enough pressure to expose all of the leaks.
@@AndreiDPop well it did fix that issue but now im not sure on the next one as i think the manifold seal the kit plugs up may have failed as i have air coming out of that hole
