Always looking forward to improve 3D printing performance. github.com/VzBot3D/VzBot Please join us on FB: facebook.com/groups/4098868770205560 Disord: discord.gg/vzbot If you wish to support: ko-fi.com/vez3d SliceEngineering discount link : www.sliceengineering.com?p=ryvDNs-j_ Or use this code: SIMOV5
You should also explain to people that you are not printing at 300m/s on that small part. Is this 2014? Nobody is falling for that anymore. Remember when everyone was printing at 500m/s? lol
@robinpeppel3519 not really. Im sorry. I have been busy on side stuff for the past month and focussed on a move to a different country. Once im settled at my new place, ill be back at it.. im very motivated :)
@robinpeppel3519 that's very kind of you my friend. It will go very good. This week Im going there to start setting up our new house and the official move should follow pretty soon in sept. Very exciting stuff happening in my life...but at the same time, very stressful.
If funny how they said they didn't have an end mill for the drilling of the nozzle section. When I built a hotend, neither did I, so I ground flat a normal drill bit to create one! It worked well. Especially because the amount of material it needs to remove is very small.
This is absolutely awesome! It looks sooo good! Btw what standoffs / spacers are being used to connect the bottom plate to the fan duct? Are they threaded or hollow?
Hi. Have you tested the filament sensor yet? The problem I have is that the jam sensor is constantly active. I tried different settings for the connection pin, but the situation did not change. Does this sensor work correctly for you?
I need to print a few of these as soon as my bambu PETG HF arrives. Thanks for the overview and your experience. I'm not sure if anyone mentioned it (probably by now), but filament even fresh out of the package isn't necessarily dry. So for any filaments tempermental to moisture absorption like PETG or TPU, I dry them even fresh out of the package. Thanks for posting! Checking out the rest of your vids. 🙂
When disabling the driver, it is recommended to use the enable pin of the driver and not cut power. I know this is an old video but maybe this helps someone :)
One can also use this to render a monitor's screen with whatever picture you want. Say the desktop of windows, an image of that. Apply it to a custom emissive appearance and then apply it to the face of the monitor's screen area. Also, if one is thinking of adding light illumination to the printer, either at the printhead or around the enclosure etc. One can do it with this function as well, so one can get a preliminary idea of how the light will be cast on to the surface and it's surrounding parts A nifty approach indeed!
water cooling is extreme for me but do you think a basic cooling with aluminum heat sink does any imprvements for torque / precision on 10-20K ish acceleration or does it allow more acceleration?
@@Vez3D thanks for reply. actually im trying to upgrade stock ender 3 pro with stock steppers. i can reach 9k accel with pom wheels with gates belt. wondering cooling would be an improvement while using it with 15k+ accel on linear rails. Btw do you planning to building a precision focused machine without vfa and ringing. That should be completely different setup compared to rapid printing ones
Another useless 3D printer part? Why not just install two feeders sequentally? I have such setup and it works flawlessly. But I use in only because I print PA66-GF30 - it's very very stiff and it's very hard to pull from drybox through long bowden.
@TheNamelessOne12357 that works too. And might be a better option. I like the belay from Annex. But its good to have other options like this standalone device. :)
I don't like that it exposes the material to moisture at the tube connection. And it still puts tension on the filament until it trigers the extruder. It should continuously be running the extruder to keep the material floating.
